Former

For this and general figure you may be better looking and asking in the the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ As for the rust often what you can see is only the start or very start of the rust and it depends on the quality and longevity of the the repair you want, if you are trying to more hide it or cosmetic job or fully get rid of it in that area. Different geographic areas have different labour rates and often these type of small jobs tend to escalate when the work starts and the true extent of what is required can more easily be seen.

There would probably be videos showing how to reset the service intervals yourself but of course this would be out of line with when the last service was actually done and it might be that you get another 365 day warning(?). I'd ask VWŠkoda Aus or whoever serviced your vehicle about this. On my wife's 205 Fabia it does a 30 day warning countdown as the actual annual mileage done is always lower than the annual service mileage. IIRC a mate's old Ren-No! Nissan Micra showed it was thousands of days overdue on service.

How much fuel is in there? Gauges aren't always that accurate especially near to empty and full. Is the car drivable, if so have you tried filling the fuel tank to half full and driving it around in case any of the mechanism is stuck, a few sharp braking and cornering to get the fuel moving around in the tank. Sometimes these things free themselves up with use of the car, cars are designed to be used and not using them enough can cause all sorts of snags and issues

You need a wiring diagram for your particular car, bridging the wires may not give a full read (but I don't know) it depends on how the gauge is wired to work (others will know). If the gauge works on resistance then a multimeter would be handy but as always all connections and wires need to be secure, clean and protected. Hopefully my post might bring your thread some momentum. Good luck.

ETA: just beaten to it! 😄 Bear in mind July(?) last year VWSkoda for UK finally came in line with Europe and admitted to the the belt change at 15yrs/180k-miles(?). Too late for us as the robbing bastards took £429 off of us, I wished I'd researched the subject more then, such is life. Give the whole belt a good visual check. Bear in mind things like tensioners and pullies can have issues or need replacement, see this post for good details of the ease of belt inspection. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485097-cambelt-change/page/2/#comment-5567999

You could be overloading the socket and it's fuse with too much going through it with all you have plugged into it, or one (or more) of the items could have a fault in it or its wiring, this could be in - 4-way 12v cigarette lighter splitter 10 inch CarPlay monitor 4K Dashcam USB adapter to MagSafe iPhone charger USB adapter for rear seats - or whatever is/are plugged into this.

The fuse is to protect the car's wiring (and appliances), if you are using too much electric through the fuse it melts because of the heat, or the fuse may quickly/instantly "blow" if there is a fault in the wiring or appliances. Different appliances can use different amounts of electricity and possibly at different times, some may have a surge when switched on or they switch something on within themselves and this may cause an overload to the fuse. You could think of the fuse like a string tied to a hook with the string holding some weight or weights at the end of it, if you add too much weight the string breaks. If you put in a fuse too strong (higher amps) then if it does not melt or "blow" then all the load is on the wiring and the wiring can overheat. HTH.

Bob you're in the wrong forum, you want 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ I can think of a few questions that might not be necessary in the other forum to those with your model. Good luck.

If your Fabia has the facility for the keyfob to open or close all four windows then that would be my first thought. I wish my wife's 2015 Fabia had that facility but then it has wind-up rear door windows (which I wish it had on all four doors, less weight and less to go wrong, don't need the ignition on to open or close windows).

ETA: I was still typing whilst PetrolDave posted and we certainly agree on one thing, as with 2mm, I'd have to experiment but I'm sure it'd need a lot more than 2mm difference on a 2015 Fabia to set off its TPMS warning, unless someone can do the maths (plural) Well I'm not sure it will but you have already tried swapping sides at rear plus generally you want your best set of two tyres to the rear. At 7k-miles per year on a 3 year old car I'm surprised the Nexen tyres had perished but your Nexen tyres may be a different model (not 'N blue HD' or 'N blue HD plus') and of different dates and times of manufacture which can make a big difference. I going to assume (always dangerous) that you changed three tyres because of the MoT. Even if all four tyres are the same make and model one, if I'm guessing right, has had 2mm of vehicle use and age more than the other three and that one presumably was made at a different time to the other three. That is not to say the other three where manufactured at exactly the same time as each other but hopefully they have been stored correctly and the three have equal use to each other (unless you live somewhere with lots of roundabouts and you always stick to the same routes and/or always park your car outside in exactly the same place pointing in the same direction, perhaps one tyre spared the elements and the other three not. As you're in the Tyres & Wheels' forum I am going to suggest you change the fourth tyre to match the other three before they get too much age and wear on them from new to balance out the braking, steering and handling the car via the tyres. Despite all the electronics and VW computer programs in the driver's "aids" and "assistance" (I don't think all of them always are) the car's only contact with the road or surface is only (hopefully) four small patches of 'rubber' from the tyres.

On my wife's 2015 Fabia it came with Nexen 'N blue HD', these were replaced with different tyres which were Nexen 'N blue HD plus' (neither were great tyres and replaced with entirely different makes and models). VW must have change the detection system (a lot) since 2015 as on my wife's Fabia it was very slow to detect a tyre that went very flat (cause of the "distress purchase" of two new 'plus' tyres, only one was needed but tyres are important and very important components in the braking, steering and suspension systems). Is the Scala standard two wheel drive or has it any all-wheel drive trickery? As you have tried moving the wheel and tyre to the other side why not try moving it to the front. Less hassle is first to check all the tyres with a reliable accurate pressure gauge as I suggested in my previous post and where ever the tyres are positioned they all what to be at even pressure at least across the axle. Is it that the car does little mileage as we had no trouble with the Nexen (other than they weren't the best for our wants or needs) but we did have some Avons that badly cracked up, on the inside where it was very difficult to see, in about 3years and 23k-miles.

Not normally a great idea to replace three tyres instead of four but as you ask, you could try checking all four tyre pressures with a reliable accurate tyre pressure gauge, if all four show the same pressure with the same reliable accurate pressure gauge then you could try slightly increasing or decreasing the pressures on all four tyres to see if that gives you what you want. I would have the odd tyre at the front. There's more to the tyres than just how much tread depth is on them, are all four tyres exactly the same make and model (making things up now, a Bridgehouse Pitstop tyre might come in varieties of chequered flag, black flag, yellow flag and even chequered, black and flag in S1, S2, S3 all with many difference between similar sounding names. Obviously a totally different make and or model of tyre is more likely to have more or greater differences. in its design, build, construction and compounds. HTH.

Sad that you will have to do such much work and parts to be able to sell but sometimes you are best to cut your losses and get shot, on the up side you've only had 11 months of suffering and it could be more and for longer. Good luck. BTW, I have seen again, right or wrong, that Snap-On scanners tend to be less reliable, but then all have there faults, computer programs are all. Good luck.

I've now used Millers EE Performance MTF 75W "Fully synthetic gear oil with ester technology" a noticeable improvement, and possibly quieter, at £30.64 (including P&P) for two litres it would only be a few pounds more that what you got. The story seems to be that the gearbox is a 2.1 litre, presumably dry fill, I keep meaning to check but I keep forgetting (other companies make this task a lot easier than VW). I forgot to put last time, I think the box is an "overfill" as oil spills out filler plug on level ground so atilt from opposite corner on fill (and drain) but it's not much overfill. Yes selecting another gear first might help if only for the delay it takes to do that but perhaps not or other. Previous posts have covered all my thoughts, other than perhaps checking with a Dealership to see if there are any "technical Bulletins" or whatever they call them ("TPI"?) for this issue on your VIN or perhaps some sort of recall, semi-secret or not. I've never thought these VW gearboxes were that great but I don't think they should be as bad as yours, as I put before I think I've seen something similar on Briskoda but can't remember the details, a Google search might be better than site or forum search (and bring you back to Briskoda which is a bit annoying after doing a site or forum search but Google do have massive resources that small sites can't even dream of or probably know what fully existing, never mind Skynet. 😆 If you find an answer let us know, good luck Tony.

Have a look in the extras for Europe cover. You always have to study what you are buying and read what you actually get rather than assuming (as many seem to do) generally as far as I've seen it's less to buy breakdown cover with the insurance, some even include it in the policy but you have to check how basic the cover is and if it only covers Gb and NI. I always have Legal Cover included and don't go for the lowest premium unless I know they don't outsource everything to overseas call centres or the very, very dumb AI systems, the value of insurance is when you have to make a claim and how good and efficient it is, often "cheap" insurance isn't, and can be very, very expensive in the end. I can recommend going through TopCashback compare to the well-known comparison sites they have and get £45 back from TopCashback, quotes are the same or less than if you don't go through them and you get £45 back off them. - https://compare-carinsurance.topcashback.co.uk/ Good luck.

Have you had a look at the Owner's Manal for the car as there might be a different route to take on the infotainment menus to previous models. When my wife had a 2023 VW SEAT hire car with time and persistence I managed to delete previous phones and before giving it back delete her phone. The paper printed Owner's Manual was too smaller print for me and even getting a pdf version on the desktop so I could zoom in was wasted as whoever authored /translated it thought entirely differently to me. We never used the Tw*tNav but I saw in there that there might be home and work destinations as well as the hire providers location. so if you've used the Tw*tNav do delete anything you put in there particularly your home. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Could you video these intermittent problems when they play up as proof. I think your wife is right and you should bounce it back and get something else. But you could as suggested try another VWŠkoda Dealership and see if there are still any decent Dealerships (garages/mechanics) still about generally. I've always found VW 4-pots, (let alone 3) to be noisy to me and I'm used to BL engines but noisy is different to faulty. You could do a Google search and see if there were any other 2021 1.0 TSI Fabias with similar issues and what the outcome was. The issues might be VWŠkoda build or from something in the history of that particular car, not that it matters if it can be satisfactorily sorted. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Nothing wrong with a change of coolant on a 12 year old car, best filled with one of those pressure things on these engines perhaps but it can be done without. @Hig you have run the engine with the cabin heater temperature set to highest setting?

I doubt your wife's claim would affect your insurance premiums much and as already put taking her off your insurance and leaving you as an only driver might/would increase your premiums, perhaps more than leaving her on as a named driver, you can test this when you next apply to renew your insurance. To claim or not also depends on how much excess is on your wife's policy. often there's a compulsory £100 but if you're both older there may be a 'nil' voluntary or £50 or £100. I am not a legal or insurance expert but I think you're supposed to notify the insurance of any incidents, whoever's fault and whether you are going to claim or not. If your wife puts in a claim it will affect her insurance premium even if she has NCD protection. Again you can vary the premium you pay by adjusting the voluntary excess, sometimes you can lower the voluntary excess you need to pay without the premium increasing, in previous thread on here ways of keeping the premiums lower have been discussed. Good luck, never worry about a bit of metal being bent a bit, it's only a car (including the Golf).

In live data (depending on your scan tool perhaps) you should have a tick box for coolant temperature sensor (s) to view, under engine data I'd expect. Coolant leak would be more steam than smoke, as already put smoke could be oil burning off something like the exhaust (don't breath it in). On tangent, you could also have smoke from things like the brake pads if they're stuck or very heavy use, that would also cause the engine to get hot, as could exhaust problems. It's 12 years old and a diesel, so often lots of dirty oil about the engine bay, as put already if some gets on the exhaust it will burnt, smoke and smell. As well as getting out the sexy big boys toy of scan tool did you also cover the basics like clecking the level (and condition) of the engine oil, and as put earlier has the car been regularly and timely serviced, engine air filter changed when required. Could you check anything to do with the DPF and exhaust with your scan tool. That's me out of ideas.

If you've taken note of previous posts and followed them then you will have the figures for you to decide if the recharging was sufficient and/or you want to buy a new battery but I'd suggest you get someone else to drive the car whilst you are with them and see if what happens when you drive the car also happens when someone else drives the car. A new battery is best 'coded' when fitted or as soon as possible after, particularly if the new battery is "bigger" or different type to factory original battery. You can check the operation of the start/stop system (and lots more useful info) by reading and referring to the car's Owner's Manual, you can view this on the following link 'START STOP' is under 'Starting and driving'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If after above you still have the issue then if you have warranty on the car take it in, if so, or not, check there are no outstanding "recalls" on the car particularly about the battery, the charging or start/stop systems on your car. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

VW don't make filters AFAIK (or oil or coolant) so it will be made by another manufacturer then VW printed on it and VW on the packaging. Anyone that prefers to have a VW label on such items then this is totally fine but it's not always the case that a VW labelled part is better quality or more robust than others available even at lower price, the front dampers on my wife's, and others, Mk3 are an example of poorer quality and shorter lasting parts. A filter may look clean until it is compared with a new replacement filter but I'm not too fastidious about dust and dirt for the cabin air filter, I can't think most of the cars I had were fitted with a cabin filter, be a waste of time for the one with roof and windows down. For air-con operation do also check the instructions in the Owner's Manual. Good luck.

I personally have used Mann cabin and engine air filters before on various cars and have found them to be good, they also give fitting instructions. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia fitting the cabin filter was the easiest of the various few I have done. You may need to change your filters more in Israel than in the UK and some parts of Europe if you have a lot of sand or such like in your driving conditions or environment. Mann give a choice of types cabin filters usually. I don't often go with Bosch as very often it's just a label but I do have a Bosch battery as I'm told it was made by Varta who make good batteries in my experience. Mann catalogue, you can select from a list of languages - https://www.mann-filter.com/en/catalog.html

You're in the wrong forum, you'd be better looking and/or posting in the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ Even with the sexy big boy toys you still need to check the basics, if you've not already done so first check the Autel is fully up to date with programs for VW and particularly for your model and year, then confirm what the Car menu gives on the infotainment (probably no more) then bulbs, fuses, etc., etc... Otherwise have a look in that forum and/or ask there. I did see a thread somewhere on Briskoda recently on cornering light issue but sorry I can't remember the details. HTH.

You are looking to complicate things with sexy tools and issues when you should always start with the basics. a) you did not reply to ApertureS's excellent post with basic battery voltage readings b) have you considered that there might be more than one issue any of which might or might not be related (including those basic and very basic error codes). Follow ApertureS's post for battery voltages [ ETA: I prefer voltge reading with a handheld multimeter, probes on battery terminal posts for reading but each to their own ] - I always start with the battery and it's state of charge. The battery doesn't have to be at the end of it's life from a 2020 car in 2024 but that depends on the level of use. abuse and neglect it has been subject to. Sometimes just driving the car even on by doing a motorway run in the day time (at night more electric is used) will not be sufficient to recharge the battery enough let alone anywhere near fully or as fully as it can get. Then an appropriate battery charger maintainer is need to fully recharge the battery (or as much as it can). This is best done at lower amperage charging (say 4-amps or below) after reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions, To get the battery fully charged will take a long time but if required it can be done in two lots of charging as soon as possible to each time. Or as you don't know the history of the battery you may prefer to (perhaps prematurely) replace it with a new battery and 'code' it in as required. On a modern car a battery has to be very low in charge not to start the car but may be recoverable for more good service life. To fully reliably diagnosis electric and engine starting issues you need, or at least are best, to have the battery in a good state of charge, a battery in a low state of charge can hinder diagnosis, and very often the state of battery charge can be the problem or partially the problem. Just having the scan tool plugged in will drop the battery reading from it. Personally I'd not suggest leaving the doors open to dry out particularly if cabin lights are left on but also the computer programs might not be at rest. Try all of above, clear any error codes and do another reading and report back. ETA: Whatever scan tool you use you need to be sure that it's appropriate to VW and your model and year of car and that the program for this is fully up to date, don't assume anything if you've borrowed the scanner.