Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. At 6 years and 44,000 the rear tyres must have been on the rear all the time. 4mm of tread is a good depth but the tyres are 6 years old and done 44,000 miles. If you change them, once you have them passed the 100 miles run-in (200 miles if wet) and can fully use them you may well notice a difference to the tyres with 44,0000 miles on them. Check the torque tightness of the wheel (stupid) bolts after 30-50miles. I can't remember getting anything like a possible 40,000 miles out of tyres since the 1970s they must be like concrete. The date might be on the other side of the tyre. In the photos your tyres don't look anywhere near as bad as my neighbour's 3 year old Chinese tyres but to me there's cracking. What are your front tyres like, if they're cracked or at 3mm or below I'd change all four tyres then once you have them passed the 100 miles run-in (200 miles if wet) and can fully use them you will notice a difference to the braking, road holding, handling and probably comfort and noise, tyres are a much underrated important component on vehicles. Check the torque tightness of the wheel (bl**dy stupid) bolts after 30-50miles. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Could it be the remote keyfob battery needs changing? Check your Owner's Manual and see if the remote needs synchronising after changing the battery as it does on the Mk3 where there is a procedure to follow to do this almost left leg in left leg out, have the door handle pulled and held, putting the key in the right way round, turning the key the right way, have the alarm go of, stand on one leg and point north, put your left leg in, left leg out . . . refer to Owner's Manual for exact details. Perhaps with a 2011 car it's a bit easier to change a remote battery successfully. Of course just because a car (12v) battery is only a few months old doesn't mean it can't be depleted as it's just a store, like a bank account some people can empty a battery a lot quicker than others. 🙂 Didn't want to disappoint my fans. 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I thought there might be a typo, 180 bhp with 456nm (336 ft lb in old money.(?)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You have misremembered this bit, see my first reply post with extracts from the 2017/5 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Pressing the unlock button might stop the alarm going off but I don't know as the Owner's Manual (2017/5) has that the alarm goes off when you use the keyblade in the driver's door lock. And on opening the door with the keyblade I'd forgot you have to pull and hold the handle ignoring my own advice of referring to the Owner's Manual (or RtFM). 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough. But what are you going to wear when outside of the car's cabin. If you want one then get one, perhaps someone might see the thread who has one and reply but I think the odds are not good, be good if I am proven wrong (again). Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If only my fingers could work my brain, they're about the same size, this is why I turn off left when instructed to look out for the next right turn by my (human) navigator.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Never seen the like, I guess they would not be much use in a soft-top with the roof down or tin-top with a window(s) open. Philips is a well known name but how much are the filters, TelslaAir better with cleanable filters but another box with a wire out of it and what secures it to the dash - oh that is covered in the second video, I am amazed an American has not sued them. Sharp another well known name. Unless it can dealt with the black sh1te that comes out of VWs, particularly Audi, diesels I would not bother personally. In the early 80s ionizers of that size were the thing then, put by the bedside. If you have struggled without one then get one and see.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a combination of batteries and use as some seem to report more frequent changes than others and some prefer certain makes and say they last longer. The battery I replaced recently in my wife's remote was from a set from a £1-shop type place and lasted at least a few years possibly/probably longer, the missing Covid years makes things more difficult to date, but the expiry date on a that pack was "Dec 2020". In November this year my wife got a pack of Hyundai, two times of each 2032, 2025 and 2016 "best before 30-04-23". We are swimming in 2016s as we don't seem to have any use for that size and other cards with sizes we don't use it's such a waste, and to make things more fun the same batteries have three different code numbers. BTW - 2032 (typo) 2025 is 20mm wide by 2.5mm deep, I'll leave you to guess the other two sizes. 😁 Let us know how you get on, I always synchronise things like remote key fobs whether they appear to need it or not, just in case they might play up later and this time I discovered my wife was right and the 'emergency' driver's door keyblade lock was a bit awkward, apart from remember to put the key in the correct way and turn the key opposite way to expected, perhaps the lack of use and airborne grit/**** that's about. A quick spray of GT85 sorted the keyblade lock.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This is the measure many people use but it isn't always a particular good one for modern cars particularly the more modern as the computers can by this time start to throw up unexpected issues but often they can be placated and the battery life can be extended by the use of an appropriate battery charger, given enough time for it to do the job properly. The car batteries now are far from "starter batteries" use. Did you see any/many error codes on the Carista when 'coding the battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Can you warm the general area of the lock and boot panel and try locking, unlocking with the key blade in the lock and also with the remote.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best not to to view the second key as a spare key but as a second key and alternate the use of the keys on the vehicle in what ever way or time interval suits you that way you get more even wear of the batteries, keyblades and locks. Does the red light flash on the remotes when pressed? I always start with the quick, easy and free stuff (and anything that keeps my hands clean), first check both batteries are good and installed correctly. Then I would try synchronising both fobs. From 2017/5 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I would be very close to the car before operating the remote to reduce chance of interference, does this happen at one location only or everywhere? Any other lights or dash warnings or other things not quite right? HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. R_Blue, I hope you realise that I was never suggesting scream up the 10% incline at 5,000rpm in any gear let alone 5th. Again I have no idea about Thefeliciahacker's maths but you give a real life example that proves his conclusion. Generally you need to carry as much momentum, speed, as possible, sensible and appropriate before the incline starts, as with bends and turns you prepare before to take the event as best as possible, sensible and appropriate. You may be in 4th gear already but what ever gear you need to change down when the engine slows down a bit. It depends on the incline on the gears that are changed, on a incline that is a regular steepness over a sustained length then you may need more gear changes or if there a sudden steepness you might need to drop two gears missing the intermediate gear, say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd. The trick is to change gear before the engine steep drops too much, to anticipate the need. The gearbox is in the car to be used by the driver. Less powerful or (over) heavy or loaded cars will need more input in these situations than more powerful or lighter or less loaded cars. With regard your opening post the truck driver shouldn't be up your tailpipe and flashing his lights, a camera in the rear window would probably dissuade him but perhaps you should have dropped to 4th earlier or also dropped to 3rd but I do not know the road incline or your gear ratios and speeds. Find your actual gear ratios and I am sure Thefeliciahacker could use his maths skills and knowledge to give you some figures for your model as new (claimed figures). How long in distance was this 10% incline?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thefeliciahacker, I have no idea about the maths but the thread has a real life example of the proof of your conclusion. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. R_Blue I would not put too much faith in figures from, or for, the car when new take them as a very rough guide. Who knows what has changed on your car since then. The old rule of thumb for setting up was tappets (valve clearances), circuit breaker points, spark plugs, ignition timing and carb mixture, in that order. I am surprised there is not a Haynes or similar workshop manual that gives gear ratios and I cannot remember my Estelle 2s having synchro on reverse but perhaps later boxes did. Are you sure the final drive was 4.1 and not 3.9. For manual gearbox you probably already know I suggest checking the oil level and then changing the oil to good quality fully synthetic as it is not usually expensive unless you need many litres of it. Also check any gear linkage, and operation of clutch hydraulics (cable?) and clutch itself. I do not know the Renault 12 but personally I am all against mechanical distributors with points, the original distributors on the old British cars I had where said to be out mechanically within just a few years of the car leaving the factory so after decades of use and abuse they can be unsteady and for many years in the last couple of decades rotor arms and CB points particularly have been crap. I fitted a fully electronic, top and bottom, distributor I had it 13 years and other than the cleaning/servicing of the rotor arm and dissy cap it was fit and forget and an improvement over the old distributor that I had converted to electronic top. Mine was a choice of four curves but only the base one was needed and you could later get laptop tuned ones that you could use for non-standard applications, like yours. Or even now Bluetooth from your phone. Yes get some videos up and take on board what Thefeliciahacker has put, pcv can cause oil issues, faulty or cheap replacement or different plumbing required. No, do not got at 5,000rpm (well not too often and you might not need to go as high as that) use the gears, steering and when suitable brakes play to the car's strengths (it should be) light compared to modern stuff, just do not go too slow, particularly downhill before an uphill. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @Gabbo the C3 has done well to keep you going but if the start/stop hasn't worked for 18 months and you get early Xmas lights in winter possibly the car and battery were trying to tell you something, sounds like battery cruelty. If not then there might be something wrong with your car, did the garage test the battery and alternator/charging system, easy for them to do. Or perhaps you where not connecting the C3 negative lead to the engine earth on your rechargers. If you were charging at below 0 perhaps the C3's electronics did not like it and the battery would not, the instructions I saw for the C3 did not show a winter setting but it kept your battery going so it must have been doing a reasonable job at the very least. I like the 3.8 amps(?) but perhaps your battery needed more than a few hours recharging from it sometimes. I am just trying out my latest and by far most modern charger £23.49, I can't stretch to a Bosch label, charging my neighbour's diesel van battery. Third time in a couple of years IIRC, originally it had sat on the garage floor for 18-24 months because he removed it from the van flat and thought it would not be worth charging. My old chargers got it back to life and it now alternates with the other battery he has that goes flat from lack of vehicle use. I applaud you getting longer out of your battery by recharging it but not if you have persistent warning lights and messages because of the battery being low, you are lucky you done enough to just about feed the evil VW computer programs an they have not made you and the car suffer more. I think you might notice a difference to the car with your new battery, be interesting to hear. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you'd have to go back to the days of Raffles for anyone to be picking a lock, a big screwdriver and perhaps hammer if needed has been the tool kit for decades, well it was decades back when my wife's unlocked car was broken into and the face of the non-face-off 'radio' was broken off and tax-disc stolen. £400 worth of damage and the car was unlocked anyway and non-face-off radio left in dash, I think they might have been so young as to only know face-off 'radios' back then. £7 to get another tax disc. Best not to attack anyone. "Dad held in Herts prison and appeared on 24 Hours in Police Custody after chasing robbers tells what it was like in jail" -https://www.hertfordshiremercury.co.uk/news/hertfordshire-news/dad-held-herts-prison-appeared-7892880

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From Octavia 2014/5 Owner's Manual' pages 199 & 200. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I've put check out your Owner's Manual for what might need resetting. From the list of four on my wife's 2015 Fabia only the time of day clock needed resetting and I've learnt from someone on here that with earlier models even though the book has the radio, it doesn't. Unlike a neighbour's 2005 Merc where without the code we left the battery in the car to recharge it as that puts up dire warnings at the slightest issue or what the computers think is an issue. Another neighbour had a few plug in battery memory savers and his Ring SmartCharge also has a memory saver function but I didn't bother as the car was at the beck and call of fully grown up offspring.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They'd probably dealt with the other German marques with over complicated computer systems and programs so didn't want to take any chances, lose a favorite radio station and some customers are in great distress. Plenty of devices about and for DIY use if they're available and wanted why not, I'd not bother but that's my choice.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had small and larger engined British cars that are like bricks the gearing and power are soon eat up, didn't help with power-to-weight when I sat in the car. 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You sound like you might be well named, perhaps yourself well in to no road tax and MoT. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Or painted, hence the yellow and green house electric insulation tape on my 4 inch adjustable spanner to remind me to be less careless at battery terminals (not related to a Skoda).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what is in the Owner's Manual. Window is better fully closed as they may need a reset but it's not vital, door being open is more electric to the spark so again better closed but not vital and if it eases your mind then do one or both. Always a good idea to make sure you or nobody else or the keys are locked in the car. I often make the mistake of offering too much information so that it can then be open to more question or misunderstanding, as I have here, which is why referring to the instructions (owner's Manual, instruction notes or booklets) is often better, if anyone is too lazy or Billy-Big-B*ll*cks to read instructions tough on them. Link for Owner's Manuals, so no excuses. 😄 - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There's 1ah more on the new battery, I don't think it'd make any odds particularly if you had the battery 'coded' in a bit later or probably not at all. VCDS is one system but there are others and other tools capable of doing battery 'coding'. If you are going to have the battery 'coded' at point of installation and you're going to keep the car for a good number of years more then you might want to look at installing an AGM battery instead, remember the new battery unlike the factory battery isn't going into a new car with new systems so won't last as long with the same use as the previous battery. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/027-agm/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd believe you, I would have a mild panic first and think later. I still jump at sparks, when I was very young I got an electric shock from messing around with a radiogram (look it up) that taught me to be careful. That is always my attitude, I loathed doing anything on my cars I don't need to and have had enough minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries to last me three lifetimes having owned old British/English cars for decades. The car batteries have always been more important that most drivers realise but it's even more so the newer the modern car with VW type computer programs and car owners using the car as a battery on wheels for all the electrics they want to use, whilst the car is driven, static or parked up. I can't stand a car that won't at least start so I like the car battery to be in reasonable condition and with the least work and hassle from me so I like a good battery from the start as that makes the rest easier. I broke my own rule of not changing the car battery before required with my wife's car as she hasn't the time or patience for it not always being available at anytime and I changed the battery quite early to save me any hassle of any sort, plus my wife has been with me on many of those three lifetimes of minor roadside repairs and breakdown call outs and recoveries. I thought you meant 100 metres but better to check than assume.