nta16

@TheWanderer I suspected you might be the type to suddenly have a good humour slip but gave you the benefit of doubt and thought you might go with the flow, sarcasm might be s the lowest form of wit but wit is wit, and do you mean you don't think you're good looking, your photo looks good. Or do you mean you can dish out stuff but not take it yourself. I'm sorry for you that your circumstances have changed but don't expect too much sympathy from everyone with figures like £85K+ and £28K pension, I don't work for HMRC so don't take that out on me. I've known someone who's whole pension went overboard and people whose mum's had dementia and my neighbours with dementia and my neighbour who moved in 8 years ago with his wife already years into early onset dementia and as he recently had a stroke I, in turn with someone else drive him to the care/nursing home to take his wife out for a drive, something he previous did EVERYDAY at the same time from home with the rear windows down because the same music was played so loud. So I Do have sympathy for you with your mum. I can't take him in my car as for the third time in my life out of need/want I don't own a car - keep your 'air on with that. 😉 Give yourself, me and others a break - I was genuinely interested in where you get your petrol prices from if you want to answer that?

Wot a surprise. It would still have needed interpreting and cross-checking. Perhaps you might have someone near you that could give you a report for nothing or a beer token. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

@D.FYLAKTOS that's good, do you have the same for engine side of scuttle? I was thinking if @robchap put up photos and there where differences, say from someone adding or altering things or water/damp or other things it might be noticeable especially with a good image that can be zoomed in on.

That's your choice with your "MY23 Red, RS, with a few bits..." you could have also saved money with buying a different level of model or different make and model of car, or not have a car, aren't you lucky to have those choices and the money to enable those choices and have such good pensions to pay so much tax, and good looking too, you've got the moon on a stick. 😊 Which petrol pricing lot do you use, the one my wife uses, with the posh bloke from very old Top Gear, by the time she gets the email the prices are out-of-date?

Excellent, check the basics first to save time, hassle and money and perhaps others being conned that more is need by whoever they might pay to sort things. Any chance you could also post that in the Superb Mk2 forum as there are some on Briskoda generally than can't seem to accept such an easy and basic thing can be the cause or remedy for issues like this and other issues from just this. And low battery is a good thought too that is beyond many's beliefs along with using a battery charger maintainer as recovery, or better still prevention (as the alternator can always take care of charging modern cars!).

Changing the filter was extremely unlikely to make any/much difference to your issue but opening the box does possibly help with the overall diagnosis of the whole car, it's present condition and perhaps past history. Putting a new filter in and cleaning the airbox and tubes will help with getting that little bit more filtered air into the engine which may be useful, perhaps now and later. They didn't do a diagnosis, well not a full one but they should have a record of the full scan report to be able to give or email to you which if you want you could post up here and if you want redact any info you'd sooner not publish on an open public forum about your car's specifics (VIN perhaps).

I'm more shooting in the dark ideas but you did put any and my posting might attract other more knowledgeable poster(s). Have you checked your full pro VAG OBD11 is fully up to date for at least your model, if so checked with OBD11 company or if they have a user's forum looked or asked there. Might be an oversight by OBD11, dare I suggest a programing error, oversight, omission by OBD11 company (apparently I do dare) but I've got no idea. The car will have it's requirements to do stuff to itself and they'd need to be matched, plus the regen not interrupted, the tool needs to get requirements right too, I don't think all machines have it always spot on. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

From 2023/06 Superb Owner's Manual (issue date 19.6.2023) - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Ask the seller to open the fuel flap and take a photo of that, and if it's from a garage or Dealership "sales" man then as some are so lazy and you can't trust them as far as you could throw them a second photo that shows the car's model and VRS badges and open fuel flap to make sure they got the correct model.

Personally I'm not a big fan of the long screwdriver to your ear as your eyes are looking that way, which can be a help, or closing your eyes, in concentrating your mind on locating things, like getting a bolt through an unseen hole, but not concentrating on the long screwdriver tip in an engine bat with engine running and the long screwdriver tip could slip isn't for me (and uncomfortable on my small delicate ears 🙂). This car problem should be from something that is live regardless of ignition switch position but always best not to make assumptions without full conformation from full testing. Scotty should have also given a warning about that hair style. 😄

If you've bought a VRS and want to drive it like a VRS then, as posted before. - ". .. however for the GTI and R models we recommend super-unleaded (98RON)". - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html If you have any diesel I pray you put in something like, but not necessarily, Shell V Power diesel for the sake of the minor improvement for those on the road and on the pavements, a quick gear drop and jump on the accelerator and look in your mirrors ought to show you the difference between ordinary and "clean" type diesel. For anyone interested in the 97/99 octane petrols with higher additives. - petrol.pdf Aren't we all lucky to be able to have any car(s) and afford to own and drive them and put any fuel in them.

ETA: Perhaps a video or photos of your battery and its terminal connections, your fuse/relay board with all fuses in and perhaps if you have all clearly labelled all fuses and relays removed if that's not a problem, under dash, scuttle are from engine side - as someone might see something different to usual or perhaps an issue(s). It's obviously not as good as being there but photos particularly can sometimes be good (if shot reasonably) as they can be zoomed in on and see more than the naked eye. Not suggesting it in this case but more than once the first thing I find is the battery or one of it's terminals are loose, the battery isn't as I was told "good" or in a good state of charge. Then other electric connections or wires (including earths) are poor or corroded or dirty and unprotected. Then worst is electric items or wiring done by some others. Bad earths can cause unusual and unexpected consequences. Note, I am not an electrician of any sort or expert, in anything just had a few old cars.

By doing what you have already shows you're certainly not a duffer. You certainly done right by making sure the car battery is fully charged (changed your case) before trying to diagnose an electrical (or engine starting) issue but do bear in mind a battery is just a store and the store can be emptied even if new so disconnecting the battery until you have resolved this isn't a bad idea. I don't think you need it but you can buy things like post disconnectors for long term issues or security or storage, one for example only. - https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/quick-disconnect-battery-terminal I can hear why you thought it might be the blower motor but if you disconnected the power supply to the blower motor then it shouldn't run - unless someone has been messing about with the wiring and caused the problem. D.FYLAKTOS has beat me to one of the things I was thinking, might the sound be from engine side of firewall/scuttle and possibly issues with water/damp might also cover the idea Papez suggested of others being at the wiring after the car left the factory. Noises can travel and be difficult to track down their origination. I think I would set the heater flaps to those dash vents and then block or well cover the vents to prevent that route for the noise to exit fully. Have you tried lifting the bonnet to see if the noise is from that side? Does the car have a/c? Does the car have an alarm system fitted? Do you have a multimeter? Do you have access to a VW or your car model and year appropriate scan tool? If you still think or find the noise is from the dash then drop down the fuses/relay board if it under dash and remove the glovebox if part of dash, to open up the dash as much as possible without disturbing too much, to be able to see and hear behind there. You can make a crude stethoscope with a short length of hose and perhaps a funnel to the end for ear comfort and as a speaker, or use the extension hose off a vacuum cleaner or something similar. Or roam with your phone doing an audio recording and see if on playback you can pin down the noise more. Doesn't matter for a sound recording but for future you generally get more visual information into a frame if you hold you phone at landscape instead of portrait. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Yes, well, as I put a lot of "classic" owners were old farts (regardless of their chronological age) in old fart cars made that way their ownership. But I'd certainly agree such cars are a lot less fun in heavier rain even with, or because of, having the roof down. That was a point I made when taking passengers out, we might be behind say a Metro, to not upset anyone, and going roughly the same speed in something like a Spridget, the Metro driver is experiencing very little about the drive, it's nothing, whereas the Spridget driver has to be working at it a little, (hopefully) enjoying the sounds, smells, sights working the (15.5") steering wheel, clutch and gears - but going no faster. You either enjoy it or you don't. I had a mate who'd had a good few TVRs (and many, many other makes) and got into Porsches, after TVRs!, totally beyond me - but he was a a few years older. 😄 I had to go to my ex-neighbours website to see what a ZX was, if it was more fun I can't dispute that, each to their own and circumstances of course. I know DS19s, that those and the Rover P6 always featured in films about the future, even long after they were no longer available as they were such forward looking and interesting cars. I had one ride in a DS19 long before they got fashionable again on a bumper road and it might not have been in the best condition as it seemed to go up and down and slightly side to side, started to make me feel seasick. Back in the day a mate had his boss's almost new BX 16v (though it didn't have the badge) and he being a rep drove it like a rocket ship, he didn't pay for the petrol or upkeep, plastic dash and bonnet as I remember it which both shook at (very) high speed. Going on an empty local dual-carriageway at a fast turn of knots I enquired about the brakes and my mate demonstrated by jumping on them and we rapidly slowed to what seemed like a crawl, and the speedo showed 90 (kph of course). It was great on the back roads too. I also like the 2CV from the one and only ride in the late 70s, when we only had pushbikes no car, and being taken to a village pub in the fog going around the roundabouts of Daventry in the fog, car four up leaning like mad, great fun at totally legal if not perhaps entirely sensible speeds but the driver knows his car, on the downside he was gagging for his first ale. (I hasten to add there was no drinking and driving, even then).

Clean air filter (and filter box) is one of the most basic requirements for an engine, think of the engine as a giant air pump that just happens to help propel the vehicle and the old computer term GIGO. Diagnostics is confirming and interpreting the information not just reading off a scan report and not just blaming the messenger, a sensor, though it might be at fault and the cause or contributing cause of the issue (wot's a MIL sensor anyway(?!)), fair enough they tried changing a sensor so put the previous sensor back in as long as they didn't charge too much for that. From what you have put the garage never had a diagnosis and you'll not get one on the internet especially without a a scan tool report to refer to and lots of information and questions and answers usually. Previous work needs to have been diagnosed correctly and then the correct parts fitted correctly, just because a part is replaced doesn't the previous part was a problem and/or the replacement part and or fitting (including coding perhaps now) was correct or done correctly. This is all why you go to someone who knows what they are doing, to fully diagnosis correctly and know if replacement parts are required which correct and reliable parts to fit and how to fit them correctly and have them working correctly. This requires knowledge and experience and possibly training, none of this magically arrives so takes time and cost so needs paying for, which can be more cost but much higher value if it sorts things. A good person, they apparently still exist, even in the UK motor trade, will advise you if you are throwing good money after bad and either take the work on if you insist or say they'd rather not take your money off you.

I had to look up the Rover 25 as they are too new to me and that was a later look to them, there were MG versions of those too. I took my wife and her female friend to a Rover Dealership back then so her friend could look at a Rover 200 or 25, I forget which, without the usual slimy, patronising and misogynist salesmen you almost always got at such Dealerships then, and still now, getting too much as she knew I would not allow it and take the mickey out of them and make them feel small instead. I wasn't interested in going out on the test drive so I just looked around and saw a newish Rover Mini Cooper in the corner of the outside lot behind other cars and asked the salesman if I could have a drive of it, he replied it was so different from a 25/200 that I had come to look at, I soon put him right on his incorrect assumption and told him if he wasn't interested in selling the Cooper that was fine. He had to admit he thought the battery was flat and he would have to move the other cars to get it out so I told him he should have been honest in the first place and if he sorted it I would arrange to come back another time to test drive the car. Another impulse buy which I shouldn't have and went on to be another involved story of purchase from the UK motor trade . . .

I might not be sure of the person or the location but am certain of the car as I had 2 or 3 years and it was my first "classic" (overpriced, overvalued, old) car, if I'd had bought a second-hand or even new MX-5 instead I would be many, many, tens of thousands of pounds better off now. I didn't even want an MGB as I had no idea what they were, I thought all GTs were (Rover 3.5) V8s and didn't know of the Roadsters (1800cc) soft-tops, I saw a restored Triumph GT6 in a garage at Towcester and admired the shape of those but I was talked out of looking for one by a chap at work. I didn't know until after I' had talked to him that he just happed to be the organiser for the local autonomous MG Owners Club. After I got the BGT a boyfriend (engineer) of one of my wife's friends had said he had always thought of getting one so I let him have a drive of mine and he later bought a soft-top Roadster so he returned the favour and let me drive that. As the GT had a servo for the brake and his (1973) Roadster didn't initially I was just interested in finding the different to brake feel, allowing for the (fixed) metal roof on mine, difference in tyres and overall, he was a typical engineer, tight-fisted, re-use old fittings, straighten out a bent screw I expect, so my car would be better maintained and running. Anyway as soon as I drove his car with the top down I knew I had made a mistake so i bought a Mk4 Austin Healy Sprite (soft-top). Another car I'd never heard of but I saw one whilst visiting a work client and liked the size and look of it so noted the badges (I knew a little of the "big Healeys"). The local MG guy explained to me it was only a badge and very minor differences to a Mk3 MG Midget ((split) chrome bumpers). It was just coincidence and chance I got a Austin Healey instead of an MG ( both from this era are known as "Spridgets"), as a teenager I knew an older mate- of-a-mate who was adopted by well-to-do parents so he had a quite new "rubber-bumper" MG Midget (1500cc Triumph engines!) and he took me for a ride in it. To me it seemed so fast, where I grew up you never saw anything like sportscars, let alone anyone own even an old one let alone new. I can't remember doing 100 mph in my BGT but it was good for around 90 mph in third gear overdrive, I would often use third gear and go into third gear overdrive from a slipway onto a fast dual-carriageway or motorway (up to 70 mph obviously) or for back road overtaking and you didn't have to lift your foot on the accelerator, or dip the clutch pedal, as many thought, just flick the dash toggle switch to engage overdrive. I forget the figures now but hp was below 100, and they had to detune the 1275 Mini Cooper engine when they put it in the Spridgets so that it remained well away in hp from the bigger more expensive MGBs, but the B-series engine torque on the twin SU carbs was pretty reasonable. The B even when a new model in 1962, as a Roadster only then, was never a sportscar really more of a sports tourer. Bear in mind by the 1990s oils (engine, gearbox/overdrive, diff) were better, I always used Shell Optimax(?) petrol when I could (have a book of their stations selling it), mine I put on electronic (expensive original Lucas optical) igniter head instead of the then poor quality circuit breaker points, K&N carb filters with richer needles but other than that and proper regular servicing and maintenance it was standard, not fast-road but not the usual neglect mechanical with shiny paint (tartan red respray) or nasty bright shiny chrome wire wheels, factory Rostyle (which look good on a B but not Midget). Below from shortly after buying my first Spridget, meeting up for a local MG run, me and a mate in the Spridget, as it was bought (wrong Spridget Rostyles anyway and note the silly tiny sun visors they soon went wheels later), and my wife driving the BGT which she rarely did. At the first stop on the run I asked her why she was taking it so easy as we were behind her and she said the BGT didn't seem to want to go particularly well up the long steep hill and she had to change down to third gear, I had a quick look round the outside of the car, felt the rear wheels and suggested she made sure she fully released the handbrake, I can't laugh too much as I have certainly done it on another car, but in my limited defence it is more difficult to tell with a V8. 😁

deleted as I decided it'd not work

Good luck to them, I think they're mad to do it but I'm not them. If they ever needed to raise the temperature they could perhaps post photos with an Ukrainian flag flying on the journey, or if they get lost, I'm sure Uncle Vlad would send a search party for them. 😁

If you mean "All-in from Škoda" 2-year warranty for "between 3 and 6 years old at point of activation" then no, fraid not. ETA: If you bought the car recently you could try the seller and see if they have any good nature to appeal to or any goodwill. "What is not covered? Whilst you have a high level of Warranty cover, there are certain items which this Warranty specifically does not cover: >>Bodywork, paintwork, body component (including encased aerials, gas struts, sunroof assemblies, soft top roofs, and seat frames, strikers, hinges or any component which may require adjustment from time to time)." - https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/content/dam/bluelabel/valid/www-vwfs-co-uk/documents/all-in/skoda-allin-warranty-terms-and-conditions.pdf#?s_aid=2e8cc7d8-1bdb-4853-8b43-e8ccbee39e4a_210_0 skoda-allin-warranty-terms-and-conditions.pdf https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan

Paws4Thot will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the following photo is from my first time of going on the "Bealach na Ba" ("Pass of the Cattle") in Scotland in the late 20th century, when I still had very dark brown (black) hair and carried more weight, in our 1974 MG BGT (1800cc) that was my everyday and work car.

That's an excellent advertising video and video in itself, high level production. I've been on a Lotus M100 club run with my mate driving his Elan M100 in the peak district area, as you saw in the video some of the roads are good but often with too much traffic on and did you notice the motorbikes you often get lots of them on that road and in that area, on the bends and twists they hold you up and a lot are Sunday-rides or occasional rides and don't know how to behave on the road or with their bikes. Motorbikers used to be known to some in the medical professions as "organ donors". As you saw the Lotuses could have ben two abreast on those roads, and did you notice how wide the modern Lotus looked compared to the original Elan (at 1:38) and drivers of modern Lotuses need long straight for speed or they get bored, the Elan wants the bends, narrow roads with tight bends. Personally I much prefer the Welsh or Scottish roads but each to their own wants or needs.

Thanks for the report back and info and photos (and being so honest, that's beyond many "blokes"). I bet you wish you'd remembered that photo sooner. 😃 Always difficult following up on someone's else's work sometimes even when it's your own previous work but at least you work for no money and make honest mistakes to yourself, when it all works out well in the end you have to just also have a laugh about it. 😄 To me that handle looks different to the one in the parts drawing above, perhaps similar though to the one on my wife's Fabia Mk3 hatch (but the car's not here to confirm) the recess/hole is different though. For the PITA panel clips and panel fitting I give the clips and or sockets they locate to a quick light spray of GT85 (shake can first) to lubricate and ease the location and fitting of clips and panel, I start locating and fitting opposite corners first to take away any panel weight and having to use two hands together, then a gentle tap with the edge of the palm when I'm sure the clip is correctly located. Things go better when you're not in a rush but Sod's Law it will start to rain just after you've started, at least you might get a bit of shelter working under a hatch or estate lid and somewhere convenient to place your mug of tea and reward (for wasting any of your life on a car) biscuits. https://gt85.co.uk/ Well done.

Your mechanic seems to have given you his own fair personal opinion on dampers and their fitting, note the should not. All modern cars I've seen have oversized wheels and very low profile and very wide tyres from shopping trollies to sports to hyper, it's the fashion and as it's the UK we have to go one size up on Europe apparently, then fashion is for high and heavy SUV looking vehicles. Fashion usually has little consideration for comfort. 😄 Good luck.

A garage that knows what they're doing with your car is worth more traveling and if they're honest and reliable too very well worth more traveling. These seem to be so rare and often have more work than they need so if you can get in with them even more worth the travelling. (But I've no idea about the one mentioned personally.)

That's not a downside, on a Skoda Fabia MK3 as using the keyblade synchronises the remote keyfob - but the car alaarm then goes off when you open the door - not "clever". I dislike remote keyfobs and almost always used the keyblade on my wife's previous car, it also help to synchronise, - and the alarm didn't go off !