nta16

You have enough to apologise about from your posts without worrying about apologising for others. And please try to be more accurate in your skim reading in future before you both with your replies to or about me, thank you.

Thank you for your very lengthy reply. And for your last sentence.

My choice would be to fully charge the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer that way you know the battery was fully charged rather than guessing how much it's topped up with any short motorway runs you might be able to make. Follow the Owner's Manual and battery charger maintainer manual instructions for charging. I think you have the time to follow my preference of low (amps) charging over longer time, 2, 3 or 4-amp chargers. Is your battery actually 49 Ah, in which case you'd want to go no higher than a 5-amp charger maintainer, see Owner's Manual, or is it a 59 Ah so 6-amp charger maintainer by the same book, either way I'd prefer a 2, 3 or 4 myself. My wife's Fabia has a 60 Ah battery and I use a 4-amp charger maintainer that I only bought because it was a fair bit lower price than the lower amp ones I saw. You can then do as I'm, forced to, do and connect it up when required for preventative charging of the battery rather than waiting for the battery to get too low for longer and better battery life. If yours is one of those that needs the keyfob for the ignition have you also checked the battery in the keyfob. Hopefully not - ring the Dealer and ask if it's covered by warranty, worst they can do is ay "No". If you need to try a spray lubricant then you are best to get the button forward, using something plastic to pry it forward use something plastic to get the spray where it will be most effective - usual cautions about car electrics. On this occasion I would use Servisol Super 10 switch cleaner and lubricant. Or I might use GT85 as I use that instead of WD-40 as it's a longer lasting, PTFE and smells nice. Some people won't like my long answer and even perhaps your long question, but they'll probably only moan about and/or to me. 🙃 Good luck.

@RicardoM you will not bully me like you attempt to bully others. As you have rejected my other ideas why not just put up posts directing posters to your technical threads and guides as this will give the very short, direct and technically correct answers and keep the thread short the way you want for the threads and this section to be - unless the posters are seeking or want to take advantage of more or wider things. I will gladly put a link to any of your technical threads and guides once I learn from you doing so as obviously I'd not know until then what is appropriate. 1) - You have thousands of posts, I have read but a few of that number yet you seem able to have read many of mine and take them as trolling because they are spread over more than one section. There are a lot of commonality on sections of a car website, generalities that apply, just as one example is a Felicia tyre that different to a Fabia or the basics of a tyre not apply to other models, do I need to be a technical expert in tyres to give general advice, details or opinions. 2) I don't even know what woke means but I'm pretty sure you'd have a very firm idea of what it means to you - so that it should not apply in YOUR section of this site 3) by being a jerk do you mean not always fully agreeing with you and fully doing as you want - and perhaps watching you take the **** and bully someone else and watching you throwing your toys out of the pram when they (not me) give you some of your own medicine back. Whether you intend it or not, and it's not on at least a few occasions, you aren't that polite to me usually (and for another). I think the "one who is cruel, rude, or small-minded" of jerk applies a greater deal more to you than me, otherwise I'd have given you much more and much sooner than the little bit of ****-taking here. I am not in any way in any competition with you especially about correct technical advice. You were demeaning me and someone else you knew nothing of and then gave the OP a bit of a snooty or ****ty telling off (part of which, but not your manner of reply, I agreed with if you check again) so (belatedly) for the first time I took the **** out of you - and you don't like it, can dish it out to others but not take it yourself. IF the OP doesn't want to read or respond to my post(s) that is fine, previously there was a response to one of my non-technical and bit of "good ol' times" posts perhaps the OP was just being polite but at least he was genuinely being polite. I do not need to stir any trouble as you start it so often already, if you can't take a tiny bit of ****-taking don't throw out so much trouble and ****-taking yourself. If you want me (and others) to only do as you want and you will not even consider becoming a Moderator, or take over the site, then Report me and try to get rid of me, and then perhaps try for others who also don't do things the way you want them done. Just because I dislike your attitude doesn't mean I don't see and understand that you often give very good advice, pity you can't sometimes resist being confrontational and offensive, and I don't mean just to me.

You two can back and forth on this as much as you like, I am NOT taking sides on this (or extracting the urine or joking) when asking @Thefeliciahacker for his answer on what gets physically damage, I'm just curious and interested to know. If your other adversary was really interested in keeping viewers and posters away from bad information or advice then he might stop with the availability of rope and give a brief and to the point answer of what will get physically damaged or destroyed and justifiably bring the thread to a conclusion.

Why worry about leading makers of oil, why not just use the very cheapest you can get, or buy at special offer times only. Some makes are just labels anyway and an old 'name' (brand) can be owned by an entirely different company. The safety data sheets sometimes give the game away. A few years back some of the old farts that owned "classics" (and I can put that as I was one of them, but I actually used my overpriced, over-valued old cars called "classics") thought Duckhams Q was back from the past, but it wasn't it was just called and labelled that. I done an engine oil (& filter) on my neighbour's car as it hadn't been done for many years and he'd certainly not notice any difference from me ding so and neither did I when driving it again. I know a (self-trained) 'mechanic' that had a galactic mileage old Ford Orion that he used as a tow-vehicle and deliberately didn't change the oil to see how far it'd go before he absolutely had to do something, not in the 3 or so years I knew of it.

As car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts I'd guess they'd suggest a new battery rather than buying and using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (which they also sell a range of) and possibly getting more years of good battery life and performance. Also Halfords seem to have their own battery numbering so fitting isn't always perfect, wrong holding down foot on a Halfords own label battery for a neighbour of mine and it was a lower capacity but higher price than serval better alternatives he could have easily got (took me 15 minutes to alter his cars holding bracket as he wouldn't let me cut the excess footing off the two tier footing on the Halfords battery). Also bear in mind a new battery is best 'coded' to the car's computer system despite what some Halfords seem to say. Good luck.

Good that you had that work done and brakes and tyres checked. I'd not worry too much about that report, certainly not for now. There are a couple of possible suggestions there that the car might have been given some minimum sales preparation or just happened to have some work done and after needed selling (which might be good or not so good as it seems). Having three tyres at 6+mm and one at 3mm isn't an ideal scenario. Do you have a spare tyre. Take a look at all 4/5 tyres and note if the makes/models, dates of which tyres vary, as in that previous video or see here. - https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-markings-explained Did you follow the previous advice from others and me, found any more detailed service history on the car?

D.FYLAKTOS I was looking for, and waiting for, a simple answer from @Thefeliciahackeras to what will be physically damaged or destroyed as you seem to have not yet to discovered anything and then you, I and other viewers can be aware and you can keep an eye out on your car and as, much as you now can, minimise any damage.

Yes vacuum, and engine breathing errors can throw up all sorts of funny things. Yes I am sure you do know those stories - but you don't have the first clue who I am referring to and his qualifications and fully professional long experience and service. I have dealt with highly praised engineers who were really low-life con-artists. Having paper qualifications and decades of offering professional service, owing a garage or engineering business, being recommended and highly praised on a national TV motoring program can mean sweet FA in my decades of personal experience. Yes it was but now very sadly very lacking over here. Anyone decent is usually, dead, fully retired or so busy they deal with stuff from a long queue of people who want their work but no rush as they have toys or projects that can wait. I've dealt with so many poor quality workers and people in the English motor trade over decades to recognise when I get a good worker and/or person. I'm not technical but did assume (always dangerous) that you had done a compression check earlier on - just checked and you did and were happy with the figures. 🙃 You've done it now you've upset the section's Chief Police Official you are suppose to give very brief and to the point information so that the second hat of Solution Priest can be swapped to and a brief and to the point answer given, with perhaps a qualification so that if the answer is wrong then it's your fault. 😄 You sir have added to the tilt of what once was a perfectly balanced world, you're a very naughty boy. 😆

I am not saying the following will be directly relevant to to your case just an example. I bought a pre-converted larger engine (and brakes, tyres and suspension of course) British "classic" car and it had different (oversized) carb (Holly, with Offy) and vacuum pipes off. Ran fine except at certain point of the rev range when accelerating it was like turbo lag (no turbo or supercharged fitted though). As I couldn't borrow another of the same carb off a mate of a mate he recommended I take the car to a specialist in those carbs. He had the carb for a week and could find nothing. Then luckily I was recommended to an old school rolling road tuner, he had the car running outside the rolling road shed as there was a track-toy running something in on the rollers, he spent about 10 minutes running the engine, scratching his head and having a fag and then suddenly said something pulled a vacuum hose off and shoved a big long screwdriver down it and smiled. Cut the hose to a stub, put a setscrew and small Jubilee clip on the stub to act as a temporary blanking and said "Take it for a good run boy and see 'ow it gooes". It ran marvellous. When I returned from the run and asked he said the Americans have vacuums for this that and the other on their cars, he had no idea what that one was supposed to be for but wasn't needed on a British car, he didn't do American cars. He didn't even want to take any money, he did something similar again on an unusual problem with another car of mine, spent 20 minutes on it, refused to fit the new carbs linkages parts I'd bought just in case and apologised for taking so long to remember the solution from a previous time (bent hinge pin on organ-type accelerator pedal). Un fortunately soonish after he died. A fantastic old school chap, too modest to even take a personal monetary tip let alone rip anyone off - so different from too many others I've meet in the English motor trade.

I would like to say the 40mm was a typo but it was my memory - 30mm or 40mm doesn't really matter to my questions unless it is that extra 10mm that causes any damages.

I take the (IIRC self-submitted) tyre label markings with a god measure of salt. When the tyre labelling first started the Yoko a-drives got lower scores than a couple of other tyres I used on the same car but in reality the Yoko a-drives used on the car were far better than the marking and far better than the other tyres I tried on the same car which had higher label scores. Perhaps the make up of the Yoko a-drives had changed and were not as good by the time the tyre labelling came into force, I don't know as very unfortunately for me they stopped doing the a-drives in the tyre size I needed. I knew the a-drives were good when I used them on the car but didn't realise how good until I used the other tyres (with higher label scores). I am like you I accept guides but only as guides and have enough driving experience to know the differences that suit me and my style of driving to any particular car. As I put I have no experience of the Yoko A539 let alone what might be the latest version of it, the F for fuel economy might suggest grip and wet grip C suggest they're better in the dry - but I have no real idea. IIRC I took Yokos off my then brand new MX-5 Mk2 1.6 because they gripped too well in the dry (I always take it easier in the wet anyway and you'd certainly want to in a (rear-wheel drive) Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5 (I've no idea about later models) so I changed them despite the loads of tread left on the set of four (I used to be able to afford such things then as the cars needed to be fun) to tyres with very good wet grip and not as good as the Yokos dry grip (a Rainex model IIRC). I also had steel wheels on that car, the salesman said it was the only MX-5 on steel wheels he'd even seen leave or come into the Dealership.

Hopefully now you can understand why. Your very narrow approach doesn't always work but carry on with it for the times it does or you just want to but don't keep trolling me please. As with other times you have contributed nothing positive to this thread. You have just trolled me. You did not give any comment (or instant answer) to the video the OP put up. You just trolled me for a second time in this thread. You answer threads in your way and leave me to do the same, please stop continuously trolling me especially when you aren't going to add anything else to the thread. You have a narrow view to the threads I have a much wider, both can be right or wrong or more or less appropriate to any threads or posts and you, I and others can choose to accept or ignore any posts or things in the posts, so please stop trolling me. I don't know how much clearer I can make things to you.

This may be a sign that the (whole) car hasn't been fully and properly serviced in a timely manner as brake fluid changes were/are IIRC at 3-years old then every 2 years after but some owners prefer to test for moisture (water) content and change relying on the testing machine which for some are very cheap Chinese made stuff that may or may not be reliable or others owners simply don't bother even though brakes are THE most important thing on a car. Exhaust clamp renewed may get rid of some or all of the sound on the video. I agree that I'd get a 2nd opinion on the wishbones, the car needs to be on a lift with the car's weight fully on the wheels and even then it might get tested to an MoT standard which is a minimum statutory standard and doesn't mean things are good or you won't have noises from there or other places. From what I've read here and personal experience with my wife's 2016 Fabia Mk3s seem to have a noises (knocks, squeaks, rattles) from under the car mainly noticeable when going down potholes or over speed humps. Some of these noises never seem to get tracked down despite the owners having lots of work done over a period of time. That is not to say you have or haven't got issues with your wishbones. The important things on a car are brakes (always number 1) steering and suspension (all three include tyres, then safety electrics like wipers, lights, horn, etc. (see and be seen) then things like the engine. If you want to and if there is someone on the list that can help (often for free or beer-tokens) you could ask if they could plug in their scan tool and give you a report from the car's computers and if wanted delete any stored error codes after recording the report to see if any return. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Final note - do not wait for dash board warning lights, by the time some of them come on you have already left it too late, as much as possible prevent these warnings from appearing by reading the Owner's Manual and carrying out, as required, servicing, maintenance and repairs to the car as a whole and not just the engine. Good luck, let us knw how you are getting on.

Any thoughts about the noise on the video?

I'm from a family that didn't own or drive cars (or have more than day trips for holidays. The following videos are for general help and can be viewed, if you want to view them, at your leisure. This video covers how to check your tyre tread depth without a tyre tread depth gauge. - Check Tread Depth of Tyre: Wear Markers, Gauge, 20p (EASY!) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB1D7iJOgE0 And general tips and simple advice on Fabia Mk3 videos. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5

@Zak13 did you follow up on the previous suggestions from other posters earlier and done the visual checks I suggested and the usual driver's checks like checking level and colour of brake fluid, level and colour of coolant, engine oil level, etc., etc.? Plenty (less than others with VWSkoda) info in the car's Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy here's a link to freely available pdf download from Skoda. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models You can check for any Recalls (that VWSkoda have admitted to) here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And some 'Updates' here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ If it's the Halfords 10 Point Winter Car Check you can do all, or perhaps almost all, of that yourself and you should be doing it as the owner/driver anyway, it's all very easy. If you need any help or advice on any of it you only need to ask, no one was born knowing, there are no silly questions only silly not to ask them. "What's Included Headlight & brake light check Wiper blade condition check Battery health check Tyre depth check Tyre inflation check & top up Windscreen chip check MOT due date reminder (UK only) Oil level check Screen wash top up AdBlue & coolant check" - https://www.halfords.com/car-repairs/car-checks/full-car-check-315006.html

I'm not sure that will help but perhaps I'm wrong. Wait a while for more *and better replies. * = sorry I missed Rooted's reply. In itself not a lot more, and I forget what extra you get in a Dealership, do you have the invoices for the services which should include details like parts replaced, materials and work done. This doesn't solve your knocking issue directly at least but will help with your ownership and understanding of the car. Do you have any warranty with the car you can use or call back on the seller?

Sorry but you have totally misunderstood my question, I asked what damage will be done to what structure(s) / component(s) / part(s) in layman's terms please, by this I mean something like the ball joints will fall apart/fracture/other or the wheels will fall off - physical damage. Perhaps I misunderstood but the impression I got was that D.FYLAKTOS would damage or destroy something physical on his car by using 40mm lower springs. What, what will be physically damaged or destroyed? Or have I misunderstood and nothing gets physically damaged? Spell it out for me please, is the car going to be hopping or crashing along the road surface - what is the problem? You have put something about understeery (nicely non-technical word) but D.FYLAKTOS hasn't mentioned experiencing this with his set up. The bit you put about mechanics made me laugh as you didn't qualify it to exclude present company. Meeeow. 😄 I don't normally bother but - Happy New Year All. 😄 Ya gotta laff or yu'd cry. 😄

I always found Yokohama tyres very good when I used them but that was a few years back and not the two in that link. We put Nexen N blue HD plus (185/60/15) on the Fabia to replace the factory Nexen N blue(?) and they were not much of an improvement, both models totally unsuited to spirited driving like you do.

Your service last May might be different but often a service just means an engine oil & filter change, and with a Dealership a "free visual health check" that can list just about anything they think they can get revenue and profit on. Changing the engine oil & filter is just one small part of full servicing, maintenance and repair. As it's three cylinder anything a bit off with sparking on one is a third of what's available. I can hear some thing on the video that on my machine to my ears sounds like a knocking sound but not clear enough to know if it's from engine, exhaust or other things but someone with better hearing and mechanical knowledge may pick up on this a lot more than I ever could. @Rooted and others may know or have access to more general issues with the Fabia 1.0 lire 3-cylinder or be able to identify the noise.

The OP can decide which posts to follow or ignore. You are the one trying to groom me into your ways despite my obvious total resistance to it, please give up on trying to groom me it will never work. As often happens you are inaccurate and pervert things I have put, I use the word pervert in both its senses when applying it to you and what you have put, please be more careful and do not over step any boundaries of decent exchanges, you would not repeatedly say such things if we were face to face I'm sure.

I wasn't joking and I was careful to use your words and description. To get directly to the matter can you please tell me what damage will be done to what (structure(s) / component(s) / part(s) in layman's terms please?

@Zak13perhaps you could put up a video or audio recording of this noise (using a very open and easy platform (if platform is the right word) as it could be a lot of things. Have you done a good visual check of your wheels, tyres and brakes and all around them and the underside of the car? Have you been driving in or over thick mud? Fabia Mk3 S, 62k-miles, 1.0 lire(?), 3-cylinder, 5-speed manual gearbox(?)? What is the history of your car, has it been fully serviced, maintained and repaired, were the services done in a timely manner and fully, assuming it's a petrol engine spark plugs changed, engine air filter changed, brake fluid, brakes, tyres, etc., etc.. ? On something like this the more information you can give the easier it might be to diagnosis remotely and over a website.