nta16

I was going to try that for you as the car and both sets of keys are easy available at the moment but we had a visitor so you beat me to it.. I wasn't just thinking of SAFELOCK but also reading other stuff in the book about the car's locking, have you looked at your locking settings in the menus. I don't normally leave the keys in the ignition but often I've got out of the car and not locked it to do checks on the car and I can't remember having any issues if I've also left the keys in the ignition and at home I could get distracted and it take more than 10 minutes (all the time staying next to the car to prevent it being stolen as I'd never want that). There are some PITA settings on the computers but I can't remember that being one of them. Let's us know if you find an answer, good luck.

I'm confused about what you and the car are doing but If you are referring to a Fabia Mk3 then have a look at the Owner's Manual about SAFELOCK. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

A no cost check you could try would be to remove, check and if required clean or replace the cabin filter and as much as possible clean or clear out the area, I favour a bottle brush and vacuum cleaner (great fun in such a restricted area). After that I can think of more checking and cleaning but most people wouldn't be arsed to do (and neither would I unless I had a garage to give me shelter at this time of year). If the cabin filter and inlet have lots of debris then you might need to follow the inlet further back to clear it out and perhaps cleaning and clearing of other bits but we can cross those bridges if you come to them. Unless others have the answer or you want to try the more checking and cleaning that may not solve or fully solve the issue the simplest solution is if it doesn't make the noise on the other settings then don't use fan speed 2 and leave it and see if the whistle progresses to other fan speeds as getting at the motor (and it's fan) if required is a PITA. The following video is just to give you the idea of how easy it is to check or replace the cabin filter, it's obviously a different model but similar process (well on 2015 Fabia IIRC). Good luck. -

At last "the penny drops". With whatever chart, or other information, you have to look at the parameters, scales, testing system/specifications and ranges and allowances and the source. A better product may be able to go further than a lesser product and for longer and less wear, meeting more than the minimum standard. Like the UK MoT, it's a minimum statutory standard that must be meet once a year, at one point in time, much of it to one trained person's opinion, a pass does not mean the car is good in other ways and only that it meet the points I put. before and not necessarily better than the minimum standard required. Now it may be the minimum or a bit above minimum is adequate for your wants and needs and those of the majority or vast majority of your vehicle model owners or you can decided differently if you want/need, it's up to you and you know you have lots of choice with oils and now so much information that you may feel you no longer know, as we say over here, "your arse from your elbow" but I am sure, as The Beatles almost sang, you can work it out. You will come to your own conclusion. "Enough already" with the charts, they have served their various purposes. 😁

@AShingers Or IF available look at the tyre manufactures' specifications on their sites or catalogues, the same make and model of tyre can also differ over the range of sizes and some sizes are nominal. 👍

Yes I know, my wife has a VW product so I had to learn about the VW dictates and oil specification numbers. With my wife's VW/Sskoda car the Owner's Manual (called "Operating Instructions" and the infotainment book is called "Owner's Manual" surely not a VW mistake) states the VW specification number of the oil required but not the multi-grade weight or refill quantities. Yes and I put you can't blame any manufacturer or blender for people buying counterfeit products from dodgy suppliers just because they are at low prices. Do you know of a counterfeit product supplier with a good reputation, other for bringing in money for themselves and/or the criminal gangs. This is why it is better to buy from a good reliable legal source and perhaps pay more than the lowest price available. There was no English language option on that video but I don't buy Castrol off dodgy e-shops so I am not too concerned - not that, I guess, counterfeit products have not made their way into garages over here, a lot of very dodgy characters work in the British motor trade.

I'm not for or against Castrol oils (in the UK Classic Castrol Oils are marketed by the MG Owners Club) and you can't blame any manufacturer or blender for people buying counterfeit products from dodgy suppliers just because they are at low prices. Personally I would not worry about VW's dictates on an old design of engine like what is in your Felicia unless I'm told VW done a lot of improvement work on manufacturing and building the engine, the quality of Skoda dropped when VW first started taking over but by the end of the 90s I expected things would have improved as VW quality then was not as it was into the next century and now. And VW superseded the specification numbers anyway, I guess later engines the oil additives packages may well be required to help squeeze the last nth degree out of such ancient technology as the internal combustion engine and perhaps help with engineering requirements from compromised development and build of those engines. Another table for your tablet's memory. 😁 - https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/oem-manufacturers-specifications-list/362

Just going slightly wider with the same make and model of tyre is unlikely to give you much difference in grip other than a new tyre being less worm and aged. A wide tyre compared to a narrow tyre gives a different foot pattern but not considerably more road contact with small increments of tyre width. Grip is more about the tyre's design and make up, a different model or make and model of tyre may offer more, about the same or less grip, same for ride comfort, noise, handling and braking. If you were to reduce the wheel size (if possible) to 17" this would give more options but I don't know about availability and cost for any of these sorts of sizes. A different model or make and model of tyre may offer more rim protection, plus I think I've seen you can buy separate rim protectors. These larger wheel and tyre sizes are often more about fashion, and possibly mine are bigger than yours for some blokes, those that want them then that's fine, each to their own, but fashion usually puts form over function. Tyres are a very complex and important component on a vehicle unfortunately it's not just a matter of the numbers and even the numbers can't all be taken at face value, have a look at a tyre catalogue for one make and model over the various sizes of tyre available in that make and model and you might see what I mean with that. I suggest it could be useful to ask on the relevant Superb forum here what other 2.0 TSI 220 owners use and find with tyres. HTH.

@D.FYLAKTOS another table of numbers to save to your tablet. I don't like your chart, for my wife it's dropped the about 37 to +35°C. 😒

Also bear in mind a "thin" (for want of a better word/description) say 50 or 60 could drop to the 40 or 50 band with use. Thank gawd for that chart, I don't need to try to restrict my wife's use of the car, well as long as it's below say a chart 37. 😀

If it's very little use it could be less expensive and less hassle to not have the car and use taxis, hire cars, public transport, kids, kids of kids, other family, bikes, eclectic bikes, mobility scooters and so on. My neighbour has just had 4 new tyres on his car this week, he does two or four fifths of a mile going round the block about once a month or less, I now do a 15 mile journey about every three or four weeks in it mainly to stop a brake piston cylinder rusting up again. The car done just over 700 miles in the four years since the last set of two new tyres (cheap Chinese concrete tyres that got cracks at the bottom of the tread within a couple of years) almost all of that mileage was from his daughter-in-law borrowing the car for a few days and his son taking the car to a friendly garage for brake work and MoTs. But this year even they had to put an advisory on the tyres, all four, though other two tyres weren't too bad for cracking or perishing. That was on top of the £540 insurance that hopefully was kept down a bit by adding me as a named driver. then of course there's the 'road tax'. Thankfully it's not a modern VW product so everything works on it despite it being a 'cheaper' marque than even VW's Skoda and the brakes before being sorted and having the cheap concrete Chinese tyres on would shame a VW and the tiny cheap Halfords battery is easy to keep going passed it normal life as the car doesn't have the modern 'clever' over complex VW computer programs my wife's 2015 Fabia has. Yes keep your 2011 Yeti as long as you can or want and unless you win the pools don't be tempted by 2019 or newer. 😄

Low or very low mileage might not be good for your tyres particularly if your car permanently lives outside. Perhaps it was just circumstances but tyres bought 3 and 4 years ago have cracked with low-ish mileage on my wife's Fabia and garden ornament mileage on my neighbours car so plenty of tread depth left on the tyres, both cars are permanently outside and the crack in the tyres of my wife's car were on the inside side of the tyres so out of sight normally. Very low mileage causes the car generally problems that might not be present with more mileage and reasonable distance journey use, you'd not want a 2019 or newer car for very low mileage so look after your 2011.

Sorry I was not clear I meant look at the links I put up, that is these links. - https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-prvni-kdo-a-jak-vyrabi-zakladove-oleje https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-druhy-kvalita-zakladovych-mazacich-oleju https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-treti-mineral-polosyntetika-syntetika Don't get too carried away with numbers, and what ever numbers you see you need to consider how long these numbers might remain when the oil is in active arduous use over a period of time in the engine. If you want to carry on with the numbers games, after reading the articles above then perhaps have a look at the following link and/or any articles you find yourself, for information the internet world is your oyster. 😄 - https://www.q8oils.com/energy/viscosity-index/

Thoughts. Nothing wrong with steels wheels, if the steel wheels and tyres are smaller than the alloy with tyres the steel combo might even weight about the same or less than the alloy combo. Value tends to be about cosmetics and often fashion, the absolutely unmarked original OEM alloys would probably sell for more than the steels. Steel you can paint and hit with a hammer alloys are more about nail brush application and caressing. 😁

You would have to ask the particular oil companies, possibly there is also a wider range of 5w-40 oils now as consumers simply must have more and more choice of consumables. I didn't know of Eneos until now let alone 1998! 😄 If you have not already done so read the articles from a link put up in that Cz Skoda Felicia forum thread but bear in mind the articles are simplified (and to my mind generalised), they are from 2004 publication, pity part four isn't linked. - https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-prvni-kdo-a-jak-vyrabi-zakladove-oleje https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-druhy-kvalita-zakladovych-mazacich-oleju https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-treti-mineral-polosyntetika-syntetika

Thanks. Taking the door card off should be easy but it's something I'd avoid if possible, 8 year old plastic bits on my wife's car I try to leave well alone. In my post I didn't have the hyperlink right (now amended) so here it is just in case. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Hi, welcome. Possibly lack of use and build up of crud of some sort or a slip in the mechanism. I had this when we first got the car but reasonable force and later preventative winding has got rid of the issue. But in your case you could try cleaning and lubricating the rubber runner seals bit by bit, you give the crank handle reasonable force to get the window down as much as you can then clean and lubricate that bit of the seals, then wind up over the bit you have cleaned and lubricated and down a few times before repeating the bit by bit process until all runs smoothly. Then in future when you open the back doors consider winding all the way down and up to keep things free. For cleaning and lubricating the rubber runner seals, I favour GT85 for this and many other things on the car as it's a good lubricant, penetrating/releasing agent, it cleans and smells nice, doesn't have silicone which can be good but has PTFE instead, once a British product now owned by a large well known corporation. Once you have cleaned and lubricated (what many service, maintenance and repair jobs boil down to) then try to hand crank the win You could also us a silicone spray (or oil) as demonstrated in this video. -

If they were both 10w-40 then my apologies, there are far to many posts on oil for me to remember the details (and yes I have contributed a lot too). I didn't think there would be but can never be sure, knowing this now I will try to find Morris Lubricant products as they can serve as an example only. As for your VW colour chart my wife and I are in trouble as my wife's VW/Skoda had the VW/Skoda Dealership carry out the annual service this September, (this time is was the 8 year/80,000-mile service) "to manufacturers specification" using 0w-30 engine oil and even in England we have outside temperatures of above 60f/15.6c, in 2022 locally we had 40.2c (104.36f). I will have to tell my wife we can only use the car for short periods when the outside temperature is above 60f/15.6c, that should save a bit on petrol expense if nothing else. Religion (including sports), politics and figures are always highly debated. 🙂

Good to have period information like the Felicia Workshop Manual dated July 2000, I note the "Ausgabe 01.98" at the bottom of the page which in English manuals usually/often means the original issue date of the information but I would never be certain about what VW mean, Google translates ausgabe as output. IF "Ausgabe 01.98" means issue date then the information is from 25 years ago. I find information from when the car is new is usually a very good starting point and often the best finishing point but not always as things change and sometimes there are improvements.

Sewn on colour badge "Skoda recommends Castrol Edge Professional". Yes - but - did you not see the links to the articles about myths, pity part four wasn't available. Millers Oils recommended Trident Professional 10w-40 (and 5w-40) that would be allowing for charging over the Welsh mountains (37.1C highest recorded air temperature) the oil is available at low cost (half the price of EE Performance at the moment) and just for it's labelled as "Fully synthetic". Trident Professional 10w40 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. - 14.0 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/trident-10w40-2/ Yes you tried 'a' synthetic oil 10W-40 - but the world is your oyster with engine oils. Here is a 10w-50 example which I don't think you might get in Greece (but I could as always be wrong) - Multivis MLR 10W-50 (Previously X-RPM Competition 10W-50) - Viscosity @ 100ºC (cSt) - 18.5 Viscosity @ 40ºC (cSt) - 128.4 https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/products/auto/automotive-engine-oils/multivis-mlr-10w-50-engine-oil.html

I don't know where the refresh button is (secret menu? or combination of pressing buttons?) but if you haven't already tried then have a look at your 'Operation Manual' for the infotainment and try a search for stations and store them again and perhaps go into the advanced set-up for DAB and check the settings are as you want them. If you search this forum or the site I think there was info on the DAB "aerial" and booster/amplifier but I can't even remember what the items were called let alone their location. Our DAB BBC national radio stations reception on the home portable has been iffy recently, "quality" in 70s% or even 50s%, normally 95-100%, but all's been fine in my wife's Fabia.

Tyres are a good place to start looking and fit for use doesn't mean they're necessarily that good. As well as checking pressure (remember to reset the tyres from the menu if you adjust inflation) check the manufacture date on all tyres and that all four, or at least sets of two on the axles, match in make, model and (roughly) manufacture date. Even if there's loads of tread left on the tyres if they're old they can go hard and if they're done lots of miles and lots of tread left they may have started with already being hard hence the lack of tread wear and perhaps meaning they're noisy tyres. Noisy tyres can help to transmit other noise more giving a noisy cacophony. Wind noise might be drying/dried out door seals or perhaps door(s) fit if the vehicle had damage there (I'm sure my wife's car might have). Engine noise at 92k-miles, have you got any servicing and maintenance history on the car, do you know if the spark plugs and engine air filter have been changed, and how many times, was there regular and timely engine oil & filter changes? At 8 years old and 92k-miles I'd also be thinking of brake fluid changes and coolant (and perhaps gearbox oil but that's just me) condition of brake discs & pads. Do you know how the mileage was done and spread out over the years, MoT and service history should give you a lot of mileage history, high mileages can be good and low mileages bad but it depends on the owner(s)/driver(s) use and abused of the vehicle and its servicing and maintenance.

The following is only a thought of something I might try if I didn't have access to a coding machine, not saying anyone else need take any notice, agree or try it, just a thought. I might discharge the new battery a reasonable amount with a load on it before fitting it to the car then when it's fitted to the car fully charge it up with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer connected as prescribed by the Owner's Manual so that the car's computer can see how much charge the battery can take on. My theory, as I don't know, computers are very thick and it doesn't need to know the battery is new only what the battery parameter(s) is/are. Perhaps whoever/team that put together the computer program for all this VW battery stuff might tell me what I've put is a load of rocks. 😄 The battery serial number/code seems to me only to be of use to VW to record factory, or perhaps Dealer (warranty), fitted batteries to record them for warranty, recall and faulty batteries or just blame the battery providers (as if a vehicle manufacturer would ever do that). It seems with some VW cars they didn't record the battery serial/code at the factory anyway, that info could be picked up if required later, my wife's had the ten 1s, perhaps they were only interested in knowing the supplier by that point(?). The use of a scan tool does mean you can delete any error codes a very low battery might have caused to give the computers a fresh start without their worry pills straight off but the error codes probably go with use of the car anyway. It's suggested that after fitting the new battery without coding that after the car is started for the first time the steering wheel is turned to full lock in both directions, I guess this informs the computer(s) that the battery has enough power to do so, and if running say the air-con at the same time it might convince the computer even more, but I don't know. I think the newer the car the better it might be to have and use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer when thought necessary or needed, all those electric items and complex computer programs on and in a car, wot could possibly go wrong. 🙃

You've got the posts above so you can decide for yourself. Why not make your existing battery last longer by charging it up fully with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer now and later when required in the future, preferably before it gets too low, as a preventative and maintenance procedure. Batteries were more expensive at one point earlier at least and that might(?) have been due a shortage because of a VW (Skoda?) rare 🙂 drop in German engineering quality with battery charging issues (? I forget) and/or the battery recall (the number I forget). If you can get easy and relatively inexpensive access to a relevant 'coding' machine and someone to input the data correctly that would be best and probanly/possibly speed things up of the computer "learning" it has a new battery fitted.

Yes another fully synthetic oil too. 😄 Not that I expect anyone to believe other than what they want to, this is is the internet after all, but I emailed Millers Oils and they replied "you would have no issues using a fully synthetic product". I also emailed Mutol (a French company owned by a lady IIRC what the chap told on their stand at the NEC a couple of years back) but no reply yet from Mutol. I think you want Fuchs for a German connection. Or go Polish Czech to get a bit nearer Skoda than VW. BTW Duckhams might be a British brand but IIRC it is part of Moove which is Comma (Brazilian), Comma also made the Halfords, Wilco and their own name Classic Motor oils, all green in colour, like Duckhams famously was, IIRC.