nta16

How well designed or not it is coping well according to what D.FYLAKTOS has put.

Surely you have answered your own thread title question, what you already have is working well. Numbers were removed from gauges and gauges made with a bias to a more fixed stable reading to help remove some of the worries over temperature readings. The car was designed to cope with a range of running temperatures not just one ideal temperature. If you are worried perhaps you can fit an override switch so that you can switch the fan on earlier when you feel it might be necessary but this will have limited application and effect and you introduce more parts and wiring to potentially go wrong which are not really needed, more drain and strain on alternator, engine and battery - less mpg. 😉

Did you use your VIN number to get the appropriate manual I just used 5/2008, but even then it seems fuse boxes and the illustrations for them vary in many sources including VWSkoda Owner's Manuals (or 'Operating Instructions as the one for my wife's car is titled. In my experience you can't fully rely on any databases including manufacturers but you just hope theirs are generally better.

That was not my experience in 14 years of using the silicone hoses I had and the car only held about 4 litres of coolant in the cooling and heating system and I checked the coolant level regularly and used a coolant renowned for finding any small weeps or leaks. The pressure cap (old metal type) was rated at 15 psi and car was not running at high coolant temperatures. As always with percentage figures you have to ask 1,000% or 1,500% percent of what as it could be life changing or barely, or not, perceptible, old or poorly made rubber hoses can be poupous (if poupous is not the correct technical word then replace it with the one that is as I am sure you know what I mean).

Fair enough but I wondered how many might see your post in this thread, if you don't get a reply(s) from here then perhaps put up a sperate thread on this section asking, or on the Fabia MK2 section, as someone might know the procedure that those nearer to you with VCDS can follow. Good luck.

Have a look for yourself with the following link.- Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Do you not have your paper printed copy of the 'Owner's Manual' that will give you this information and much more, if not you can get from VWSkoda a free pdf download copy of it from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Below is from the 2008/5 pdf copy from that link, as already put it's fuse 12. -

Reading and referring to the 'Owner's Manual' will give you a lot of information that even long term owners and some at garages have forgot or don't know (because they do not read the 'Owner's Manual'). You have to refer to it even for simple things that you've been doing for decades as the German car marques particularly like to add complexity everywhere.

Have you got the switch in the centre position? Have you got a starter button? From the 2022/6 'Owner's Manual' - "Operation Automatic activation The lighting is activated when one of the following events occurs: The vehicle is unlocked One of the doors is open The ignition key is removed (vehicle without starter button) Automatic deactivation The lighting is deactivated when one of the following events occurs: The vehicle is locked The ignition is switched on About 30 seconds after all the doors have been closed" Link to digital 'Owner's Manual'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models When all else fails . . . 😉

If you are changing the 12V car battery because you have let it get in a too low state of charge and/or state of health then this can throw up all sorts of codes and warnings. If changing battery it'll need to be a battery in a good state of charge and health (obvious I know but in my experience I've been told a battery "is good" when it isn't, more than once) or if fitting a brand new battery then be (almost) exactly like for like or it'd be best to 'code' the new battery in. With a (properly) good battery fitted clear the error codes and see if they return. Is there a reason you couldn't recharge your existing battery with an appropriate battery charger (following the car's 'Owner's Manual' advice on charging rates). Let us know how you get on.

Fair enough, I did wonder, perhaps it is mislabelled I would have thought they were made by customer request.

They usually go off by themselves when battery is exactly like for like but perhaps if you let the previous battery practically die and or over a longer period you might have upset the computer gods. If you have a code reader or scan tool you could erase the error codes and that should do it, or you could perhaps try (not sure if it'll work just quick easy and inexpensive to try) starting the engine and leave on idle turning the power steering full lock both ways if the Superb 2 is electric power steering and/or put on other electric heavy loads for the computer to see the battery (and alternator) can cope and go for a drive so the computer gets the idea better. I think you'll get more response if I ask for your thread to be moved to the Superb 2 section.

The thumbwheel might just have some crud on/in it and just need a clear out so just a physical/mechanical fault, I'd try cleaning it first to see if that works as it's quick, easy and very inexpensive to do. Much servicing, maintenance and some/many repairs on a car just boil down to clean and lubricate. Or you could try with the ignition off spinning the thumbwheel forwards and backwards a good number of times and see if it free things up. Such a low mileage and/or use over 6-7 years isn't such a good thing for some parts of the car.

Classic Silicone Hoses (a very small company unless it has changed) - they do not make a Favorit/Foreman set but I am sure they could. - http://classicsiliconehoses.uk/product-specification/ They do a set for "Octavia Felicia"(?) and they offer different finishes and colours. - http://classicsiliconehoses.uk/product-options/ I am nothing more than a satisfied customer, no connection or profit for me from promoting them.

That is new to me. For long lengths it might depend on the quality of the hose, I have had three and four ply silicone hoses but thinner walled hoses could be supported and secured with clips. When rubber hoses were of very poor to abysmal quality for my "classic" MG I fitted a full set of silicone cooling/heating hoses and unfortunately most of them were disconnected and reconnected a good number of times for various work on the car and that was over 14 years and they are still on the car now and look in good condition and internally they must be good or they would not have been kept with the last engine removal last year.

Not totally my experience with a couple of 1974 and 1980 Haynes manuals. As advised as you have VCDS lite you can put it to good use to help track this down, might also be a connector or wire. As in with a neighbour's 2005 Merc but for the work involved to check the connector it might have been worth taking a risk on fitting a new aftermarket (Chinese made?) £20 sensor (keeping the original factory fitted part just in case), I don't know how it was fixed as it was done in with a lot of other work repairing and refreshing the car which must have cost a pretty penny.

@Mathias03 do you actually mean a Webasto or do you mean the Skoda factory heater air conditioning? For Webasto operating manuals use this link. - https://dealers.webasto.com/sections/public/Documents.aspx?SectionId=6&CategoryId=9 For your Skoda 'Owner's Manual' use this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Thanks for reporting back, unfortunately it's a common story. I would expect the change of such old and used spark plugs and air filter to make a noticeable difference. Of course the engine is not the most important system or component on the car, I hope your mechanic also checked the brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres). Things like brake fluid and engine coolant are often overlooked and not even checked let alone changed. I also changed the manual gearbox oil on my wife's 2015 Fabia at about 6 years and 40k-miles and my wife said she noticed the difference - but many will argue against this but it's an easy job (otherwise I'd not be able to do it) I've done on my cars and always found the benefit. Much servicing, maintenance and even some repairs just boil down to clean and lubricate, boring easy stuff but a good base to build from even if you only want impressive sexy work on cars. Good luck.

You might find a seal with a better profile for your current installation, have a look at places that do seals, I'd have a quick look at "classic" car trim suppliers, car builders' suppliers sites, kit-car builders' sites, custom/modified suppliers sites, eBay seal suppliers, for whatever profile you think will suit your needs. Surely it can only be that the bonnet is now higher, or the heater box lower or the seal has squished but as I put earlier it is what it is so if nothing else is wrong then a seal that fits the current situation should resolve the issue.

I could well be wrong, often am, but I don't think Ford Sierra was about when the original version of Slick-50 was be one of the Sierra predecessor's mark of Cortina. toot are you sure it was Slick-50 they used then, I can't dispute it as I was a kid then and where I lived they were very few car owners. ETA: Looks like the original or a version of it is still available after a very quick Google search. - https://bishopsoriginalproducts.com/history/

Hi, welcome. You have posted in the wrong section, I will ask if your post/thread can be moved to the appropriate Octavia section.

Originally at least it wasn't so much an additive as a coating, IIRC testing on the/a later version found it manly coated the oil filter. The transmission version IIRC was more of an additive as it required renewing with oil changes.

I thought you had already checked this and knew there was a gap hence the suggestions of changing or further sealing.

It's not been the original stuff since god was a young girl and it was all fields around here and most here weren't even a glint in the eye.

Fair enough. I can follow keeping the car but making it feel different. Chap in another thread had a remap to get more mpg which a remap should achieve but most of us wouldn't notice as we'd drive the extra performance and usually get less mpg. Being biased against VW but only experiencing the 4-cylinder I can't think I'd want to push a VW 3-cylinder too much more than VW. Having fun in the car has little to do with hp figures and numbers and needle positions on the dials that's all ego stuff and no matter how much you have in the right circumstances you'll want a lot more than possible and always others already have a lot more. Better might be to carry more what is already available with things like better tyres, perhaps suspension upgrades (though many upgrades can be the opposite). Perhaps strip things down a bit, if that's possible on a 2019 car. But different people have different ideas and want to experience things for themselves. I've spent many tens of thousands of pounds to find more often less is more but admit it has been nice sometimes to have more than required. Good luck to you both.