nta16

A number of years back a mate had a petrol V8 engine from them and wasn't over impressed with the product or them, might just have been a one-off or they just didn't get on but I know from bitter personal experience (not of them) more than once that a good reputation takes longer to lose than a bad reputation.

I just missed this with my last post - you are now getting a better idea. Your @toot should allow you a drop menu with @toot on it. As you have only had had the car 2 months do you actually know if the car had 10,000 km oil (and filter?) changes, that is 29(!) changes, do you have proof, not that it matters now unless that was part of your purchasing contract. Plugs I leave with toot.

Sorry my mistake, as you called it a Fabia 3, and not Mk3, and without a year of production I wrongly thought you had a Fabia 3 (trim) Mk2. Back to your concern, your car has 290,00 km (180,000 miles) in 5-6 years, not factory standard, you have only owned the car two months, you are told the oil was changed every 10,000 km and spark plugs last year, you are doing "full throttle at low gears" and worried about higher fuel consumption with no engine error codes showing. There is more to the car's fuel consumption and acceleration than just the engine or lack of engine error codes. You need to look at and record live data to see how the engine and rest of car is performing - but you have a non-standard car with 180,000 km on it so do not expect it to preform as a newer car being thrashed. One element of 0-100 times is the driver and how much he is prepared to thrash the car to get the lowest time. Accelerating hard and expecting good fuel economy makes me wonder again about whether this is just a joke or just a misunderstanding as English is not your first language. You can not get the best out of any computer programing unless the (whole) car is in a good or at least reasonable service and use condition, the VCDS and car's computer programs can not defy mechanics and physics but by all means if you want to ask on the VCDS section I mentioned earlier.

Hi welcome. What is the service, maintenance history of the car, is factory standard or messed about with by previous owners, what year. Often a proper service (not just engine oil & filter change) but for the whole car can transform how well a car goes. This makes me wonder if your post is just trolling but assuming it is not then this post would be better in the Fabia Mk 2 section (the 3 model number does make things confusing) and if you want specific VCDS info there is also the Diagnostics & VCDS section but some in the Fabia Mk2 will also know. The 'Owner's Manual' is full of useful information to an owner or driver, if you do not have the paper printed copy you can downloads a free pdf version from VWSkoda here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I will ask if this thread can be moved to the Fabia Mk2 section. Good luck.

You do need an updated a VW specific scan tool to get more than the generic info and then some scan tool programs are better than others with their programs, a second different scan record can sometimes be useful. Also a more specific scan tool can sometimes offer more diagnostics and tracking down issues more sometimes Here's a list of VCDS owners that might be able to help if you need it. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) If the car is not as factory standard or previous owners have added things or changed/replace items, particularly involving any electrics then strange work can give strange results. Always worth checking and rechecking the basics though. Good luck.

No, I've been putting such for many years and if you check you'll see I've put RTfM before and others didn't like it, you're not the only one I have to try and please. Just putting RtFM could on occasion be rude as a reply plus some may not know what RTM or RTfM means. Whilst you may frequently see text repeated to the various posters it'll be a first time, and if not a reminder. Many confuse owner's manuals with workshop manuals and/or have no or little idea of the scope of very useful information in the owner's manual and even those that think they know sometimes need to check the book as various models and years have little variations of VW's added complexities to what used to be very simple and obvious little jobs. Even my longest posts take a fraction of a second to scroll past, this site isn't restricted to FB or Twitter type very restricted posts.

Have you checked your air filter and housing are clean and clear, any air pipes/hoses cracked/loose/disconnected, condition of spark plugs, what's the service and maintenance history. If you have a generic code reader the code might be a red herring. Checked electric connections for battery supply and to sensors. That's me out of quick ideas.

What error codes have been found? Intermittent like this would make me think of electrical (computer system side perhaps) when you were doing your multimeter checks did you wiggle connections, is there a pattern to when the issue is worse (hot, wet, parked up or not, etc.). Have you disconnected and check the electrical connections were/are all clean, secure and protected, followed wires back and checked for splits, unsecured, etc.. Have you looked at the strip fuses on the battery with a good light and magnifying glass to checked they're not cracked, that seems fairly common from what I've seen here. Have you checked other stuff in the engine bay, what has been checked done already, more info might be helpful. Hopefully now I've posted others will be along with more idea and ideas.

All the more reason to follow my previous post advice, last thing you want when you return is not to be able to get into your own car or have hassles to do so. Alternatively there will be threads on this site about leaving a car parked for many weeks and what is required with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery (no 'coding' required) but the relevant 'Owner's Manual' to your car (model, year or better still VIN) will be much more specific, unless the car has been change from factory standard. Despite what many big-boys might say it's not weak to read instructions before doing stuff but weak not to.

Just follow any instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' about disconnecting the battery and what might be required when reconnected (not all or just one thing they list might need attention). Bear in mind how you are going to get back into the car to reconnect the battery, again follow what's in the 'Owner's Manual'. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf download copy from the following link, if you read the Owner's Manual' and refer to it (even for what should be simple jobs until made more complex) then you will know more about your car than many long term owners or some at Dealerships and garages. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models The battery only needs 'coding' when renewed and possibly not even then if changed almost exactly like-for-like, the first page of the following will explain. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf You'd probably get more and faster replies by posting in the Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020) section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

I wasn't disagreeing just suggesting not to discount the possibility of faulty amplifier. I doubt it but again I'd not entirely rule it out, I'm always weary of updates as so many with MS at least seem to fix one thing and bugger up another that then needs another update that does the same and so it goes on, if the first program lasted 7 years and is easy to get hold of and reinstall I would try as I like things that are quick, easy and very inexpensive repairs. Always best to start at the begin and basics on repairs as you know you can't often successfully move on until the very basics have been double (or treble) checked. A couple of times a mate's company that I worked for wanted to take on trainees that had been on electrics courses and the mate would give them a faulty piece of equipment to check and I suggested instead giving them a fully working piece and just remove the fuse from the power plug, both young applicants instantly had the cases off without asking any questions eager to put their electronic learnings to use, after a few minutes he explained. I got caught out when on site and was told by my mate all the power sockets in the room I was in were live and started to check why the equipment I'd pugged in wasn't working to then be told that the double socket I was using was the only one not live for a reason I forget now, he'd made a mistake but of course it was my fault for taking his word for it without checking. I've been told and seen others told "it won't be that" for it turn out to be 'that' - and of course Sod's Law if you start the checks and diagnostics at one end the fault will be at the other end.

I think I've read before that there's a DAB aerial amplifier in the car so it might be worth checking that. Cars built during Covid and the ongoing chip shortages seem to possibly have lower quality "radios". IIRV ( which is always suspect) they might have been lower before that in the Fabia judging by posts (IIRC) and difficult to tell unless comparing like for like. My wife's car is an early 2015 build and the DAB reception was fine yesterday on two different stations.

Below is what I imagine as bottom piece of ignition switch, obviously the Skoda one may vary from this one.

No sorry I don't (but doubt it), I don't know about relay either or wiring, or the car sorry I was just going on that you put "now" and that you had replaced the bottom piece of the ignition switch and following a general practice of checking the work done (or part replaced) as a starting point - but that assumes the problem wasn't there before you done the work as you put now. You really need a specific wiring diagram for you model and year or VIN for your car to see what is where. I only know the very old systems where the key turns a mechanism that moves to the switch 'plate' (my word/description) with the contacts and wires and there is resistance going from ignition on to starting which moves the 'plate' back off from starting when you release the pressure to it, sorry that will not be a very good or technical description but I think it is what you where thinking of(?). I am pretty sure others will be along who do know what they are talking about to help you now the thread has some momentum, you can wait for those or check your work and take photo as generally photos help with variations on different models and to see that things are as expected, 25 year old cars can have lots of variations to them from when they left the factory.

Sounds like something is wrong with the switch or its installation - best to check its installation and it. Take photos of the wiring to the switch, the switch as installed, the switch part in the switch/lock mechanism and the switch out of the car front and back and note any numbers on the switch and post back as someone will know if you have the correct switch installed correctly. Alternatively if it is a new modern made part it might (or might not) be faulty or poorly made.

Fair enough, another invasive Americanism. Where I am generally, as far as I know, unless your a fan of old American movies plays or musicals broad just means wider than usual.

Some of the readouts seem optimistic but some have proved to be as near as damn it. Of course you'll now have to amend your 😀

Probably rare or very rare but that might also sometimes depend on the circumstances. On a legal contract it pays not to make any assumptions. First search result I found was from this Adrian Flux (specialist car insurers). - https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/blog/2022/06/how-popular-modifications-affect-your-car-insurance.html I've had "classic car" and specialist sports cars insurance policies for various cars for 30+ years and car insurance since 1977 so have a little experience as a policyholder (others no doubt will have even longer and wider experience (and knowledge) than me).

Yes cars that don't get a lot of regular use can have things fail (hopefully temporarily) through lack of use, used to hear of it more with "classic" cars especially when they had MoTs or out of extended "winter" hibernations.

Can you remember what usually caused it, was it a use it or lose it thing or electronics/computer?

I've no idea what you look like but if you have had the car 20+ years I know you are not a teenager and must be very elderly if you think the word broads is still used for women or girls. 😃 (Used in America not UK by the way). Do bear in mind you are not the only one that reads the posts, I did not want Thefeliciahacker to think I was having a go at him about this, or anything else, or having a go at anyone else that likes bling, we all like a bit bling just some more than others. My point was for your application it would serve more as bling. If you introduce things to deal with the heat of hot summer city traffic then also bear in mind you do not want them to slow down the car warming up on your short winter journeys.

I don't know for sure as I never look at that section of the site but I guess you might be better posting this thread in the Fabia Projects where you might find more similar minded people to exchange ideas with. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ It won't alter any insurance situation you have and what you record on a public forum - for all you know I could be a serving Police Officer in Belfast, I'm not either - but if you or your car shouts "look at me" (or listen to the noise my car makes) and I'm not saying your car looks modified and I can't know if it sounds modified, but if it does (either) then you can't complain if people look and hear it including the Police and you be surprised if the Police think you might be worth a pull.. Very probably not, under usual circumstances, but it is possible (again I could be involved with car insure, again I'm not). Depends if you have to claim or it's involved in a serious accident or other incidence then these things could be easily noticed or found, especially if there are other shout-outs on the car suggesting a more thorough look, unless the VRS parts are standard to Monte Carlo too just that could be (is?) a modification. There's a good reason for that, simple statistics, young inexperienced (3 years) drivers have accidents and those that make their cars go faster tend to have more serious accidents. We were all 19 once and know how we thought and drove then (especially men), human nature doesn't change, 10 or perhaps less years from now you won't believe what you think (and post now). Hope all that makes sense, good luck to you.

Whether the aluminium expansion tank cools down (heats up) quicker will make no odds overall in hot city traffic on a hot summer's day, nice bling for those that like that sort of thing and as always each to there own if that' is what you want.

My wife tried another few tankfuls of Tesco (Momentum 99, up to 5%) E5 without me knowing and when I drove the car and said I thought it felt smoother she said so did she and that it was running on Tesco E5. Obviously for the sceptics it'd be placebo. I've no idea about mpg as when a car feels better I tend to drive it a little more spiritedly, but who knows with the VW engine and all its controlling computers as it makes so many different noises and vibrations every time it's used the improvement in the way it feels might just be the computer gods in a rare good mood.

As a total generalisation 14" are more towards practicality and 15" more towards fashion.