nta16

CJZC / CJZD shows as 22Nm - but as always double check and cross reference any information you get from any source especially the internet. I'm not sure how many average DIY (or garage?) used torque wrenches would be reliably accurate/precise at 22Nm anyway, I know I wouldn't trust my cheap torque wrench to be that accurate/precise if I was concerned I'd borrow a mate's professional use torque wrench that gets tested every year but some can set up their own at home anyway to at least be accurate at one amount. I'm not a mechanic or engineer or expert in anything just personally I'd leave them unless they cause any issues or you just can't have a peaceful mind in which case replace them with new spark plugs. One example of what's on the internet on the subject but unless you know your torque wrench is spot on at 22Nm it's all a bit ball-park anyway. - https://www.aftermarketnews.com/the-importance-of-proper-spark-plug-torquing/ " . . . dead on balls accurate" -

Are you sure you mean ft-lbs and not Newton Metres. NGK for my wife's car's plugs has 15-20Nm "torque dry thread". My personal opinion, as a general rule of thumb when comparing Japanese with German engineering go with Japanese 11 times out of 10, having put that I don't know who own NGK now..

Thing is how much are you going to use the car in the next week or so against how much coolant continues to disappear, if slow you can keep topping up but if quick it depends how quick and what it might lead to. A coolant leak isn't good on any car but a 2020 car, 3 years old, is concerning. Coolant loss is usually a leak to ground or through engine. The days of needing to carry coolant (water) should be many decades back with old bangers or "vintage", "veteran" or old poorly maintained "classic" cars. Keep topping up as required and keep an eye on the coolant gauge (if fitted) or oil temperature if not and check they don't go above what you normally see For the sake of a week or so I'd nurse the car along not over stress i or get it too warm, thrifty driving without labouring. Good luck.

Hi Janet, welcome. That, AFAIK, looks like the air inlet to the engine so needs to be enclosed otherwise the air isn't fully getting to the engine. Only as an example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144679434624 AFAIK nothing inside, it's a scoop to get the air from outside (under bonnet) into the engine via the air filter, which needs to be reasonably clean, you want clean (as possible) air going into the engine, through it and out of it and the exhaust (petrol and especially diesel). Again as an example. - https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/2.0/103;_125_kw_tdi_cr_engine_(1st_generation)/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/intake_manifold_air_filter/removing_and_installing_air_filter_housing/?utm_content=expand_article For future enquiries you're probably best to post in the Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) section of this site. If you read and refer to the Owner's Manual for your car you will then know more about it than many long term owners and some at garages, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can download from VWSkoda for free a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models And here are some very helpful videos that cover somethings in the Owner's Manual. -https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqSbufztgrEsE0U-QjwooWU

In the angle of your photo the reservoir looks empty wot ain't not good. VW fart about with what coolant they want at any particular time but may be on G12 Evo for 2020 and/or at the moment (unless they've changed their minds again). IF the reservoir is below minimum or empty on a 2020/1 car, or any year, that's not good you need to find out why and get it sorted. Sorry you've lost me with local dealer is 10 miles away and not local, if required I'd do a 20-mile round trip to get that sorted before it progresses to anything worse.

A VW suitable scan tool could look for any error codes and look at live data to help with diagnosis. If you don't have access to one you could possibly find someone on the following list that might be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) This is not to neglect the basics toot has pointed out.

J.R. even you will admit you don't know it all and sometimes you are wrong - and even mistaken alternators types before. The OP I'm sure can decide for himself what he wants to follow or ignore anything anyone puts here, so take a day off, give yourself, and me a rest, and come back even more invigorated another day. 😄 I can also think of a very cheap and easy thing to try without tools and need to remove the alternator - AND - not (directly related to the battery 😄) outside of your belief system, but the OP has chosen not to go a DIY route whether you - or I - like it, personally I feel it's his choice and he might know better than either of us what's best for him. Now - "Let it go, let it go . . ." no I've never seen Frozen either. As Dave Allen used to say goodnight and let your god go with you. I'm beginning to warm to you again.

So you've learn nothing with recent events and are back to your previous self, this you may feel is good for you, it's not so good for me, leave me to my obsessions and you stick to yours - we will never see eye to eye so as they have it in Frozen "Let it go".

Can't help with that - but - the battery and alternator do work as a team and if one's not doing enough it makes the other work harder so both wear the other. As the car is recent to you you can't know (unless you do?) how much the car battery has been used and abused. A 2018 car possibly uses more electric than you realise and the battery can have a hard life, VWSkoda only expect 5 years for a battery anyway, less I'd imagine for newer models Because of this some have gone back to helping the battery with a battery charger and maintainer as happened many decades back. The computer programs in the car don't like a battery that's is in a low state of charge and health and can start to throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before warning lights and messages and the car still starts and the exterior lights seem bright still. I prefer to recharge a battery and get more reliable and longer life out of it but in your case you need to change the battery if it isn't holding charge and this will help your alternator and might help with the noise. Let us know how you get on with changing the battery and if it helps or solves the noise. If not I know what I'd try but you may prefer to leave things to your mechanic.

I think your mechanic might be thinking of the code for the particular battery which isn't on batteries now you just do as varooom's helpful 'How to adapt a new battery' thread. Below is the example from my wife's car where like many others the factory didn't bother with the code and just put ten ones (1111111111). A site member 'coded' the new battery for me using an OBDEleven from a phone for a beer token. The battery was changed from a (Moll) EFB type at 59Ah to a (Bosch brand label) AGM type (called Fleece by VW) at 60 Ah and battery code (serial number) from 1111111111 to 1111111112.

Only put the other day on here that I sometimes see an original 1970s Hillman still in use on local roads. As with the Hillman the state of health and charge of the car battery is very important but more so with modern cars and their computer systems, especially so with German marques with their complex intertwined systems. It's my hobbyhorse so there's loads of posts on here from me about the importance of the battery. Whether the battery is the cause here or not as with the Hillman if the battery is in a good state of health and charge it will help with diagnostics and sorting starting and electrical issues which is why I've (very) often suggested, if required, the battery is fully recharged using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer. Personally I've found low and slow recharging to be best but many don't have the time or patience so I suggested doing it in stages if required until the battery is fully recharged. Many seemingly strange issues have been sorted by recharging or (sometimes prematurely) replacing the battery, there are loads of posts and threads on here to support this but whether it will for you I don't know but often it's the first thing I suggest and if required it will help. For voltage check, use a multimeter on the battery posts a good few hours after the car has been parked up, allow say a drop of 0.2V for the computers doing whatever they do so if you get a reading of 12.1V it might be 12.3V, at that or below I'd fully recharge the battery. Let us know how you get on. One of the main problems with "classics" now can be the quality of modern made replacement (or "upgrade" or "improvement") parts.

I don't know but think it unlikely the ignition and door keys weren't the same from factory. For synchronising from 2007 Octavia 'Owner's Manual' (it was the same but different wording).

sorry wrong book

Have a look in the 'Owner's Manual' for synchronising and lots more useful info, even what's needed when putting the battery in the fob varies with models/years sometimes. If you've not got the paper printed copy you can get a free pdf VWSkoda download from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Despite what some men might tell you it's not sissy to read instruction manuals and is a very good idea with cars, load of info you need is in them. PS It's very easy and quick to do.

I saw my mate and my old 1973 (year) Midget yesterday, he has it looking and going better than I did, I notice when the bonnet was lifted that he had put DoT 5 silicone fluid in the brakes and clutch systems. He said he did not clean the brake system (clutch system was apart and new piping) he just did the usual (Gunson) Eezibleed with the new silicone fluid pushing out and replacing the old DoT 4. No problems with brakes or clutch. Still no problems from putting DoT 5 silicone in his 1970 (year) "classic" 25+ years ago. Both cars use similar brake parts as the Foreman.

Roy, you might be better posting in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Or, just my non-technical, non-expert guesses . Anything to do with damp or moisture perhaps on wires or connector(s) perhaps or (from my looking for Topdon error code) loose, damp or aged relay perhaps. Is your Topdon a code reader or scan tool and is it suited to VW and fully Updated. Ross-Tech 01314 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314 Do you mean traction/stability control?

The noise at the start was just before the starter motor but I couldn't say what it was, on listening again it sounds different to first time I listened and Tony Hadley was distracting me after (I'm of that age), If you don't get a good amount of charge into the battery when it's low you can have it going over and under the threshold with use so it's just enough and then not enough. Driving the car the alternator will be helping the battery so any reading taken then could be higher than after the car has been parked up for a few hours so a better test is to try starting the engine then and see if it's fine. Even if you had a fully charged brand new battery you might still have fault(s) with that shifter and you'd said the engine sounds very throaty so there might be a fault or faults there all may be easily solvable but if the Dealership, if required, isn't sorting them that's no god to you. I think you're going to have to get a bit more forceful with them and press your rights as a buyer. If you're in a a motoring organisation you could perhaps ask them, or if you have the car through finance contact them, the Dealerships make their profit from finance they have to keep on the straight and narrow with finance now. You may have a very good car but if not you want to return it, get shot or get it fully sorted ASAP as you don't want to put good money after bad. I can tell you from expensive personal experiences that you want to cut any losses a lot sooner than later.

For reference a new battery fully charged can be anything from 12.7V to 12.9V, Skoda like you to keep above 12.3V.

One thing that never helps is if the car battery is too low for the computer programs, doesn't matter if the exterior lights seem bright and the engine starts battery could still be too low. However, there was a graunch I think at the very start of the video was that anything to do with starting the engine. Couldn't tell as the music was on, and the air-con blower on, are you a heavy battery electric consumer. Even if not causing the faults low battery might be contributing to the mayhem. If you have a scan tool suitable to VW cars then you could see what codes might be on the car and perhaps live data. Take a reading of the car battery at it's posts with a multimeter, about a couple hours or more after it's been parked up, if you get about below 12.1V (allowing 0.2V below 12.3V as being used by woken/not asleep stuff) then consider driving the car with minimal electric battery consumption or better still top up the battery charge with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer. Fully recharged would be best not using a quick charger so it will take many hours but can be done in stages if needed. Before taking a reading you could check that the battery terminal post clamps are tight and that the earth lead to body is tight and per haps put up a landscape photo of the battery, and its fittings, to see if the battery has been swapped and a good one fitted. Battery is relatively easy, quick and very low cost to check (and charge up) so worth getting out of the way.

Hi, welcome. I've just posted for a 2015 car same as my wife's, I'm not sure if it'll be the same for your car but have a look, a guide I put up from my wife's 2015. Windscreen wipers don't turn off / come on by themselves (Fabia Mk3)

As my wife's car is also a 2015 have a look at a guide I put up and see if it might apply to your issue. - Windscreen wipers don't turn off / come on by themselves (Fabia Mk3) -

I'd not be in a rush to buy modern made rubber hoses as they can sometimes be low, very low or abysmal quality. If you can get a set of preformed silicone hoses then yes, I'd take off a few of the easy to get at hoses that just requires the coolant level to be dropped a bit and inspect them internally and externally and if they look good they'd stay for me. Obviously if you see any of the others damaged or aged externally they may need changing at greater priority. Unless there's a particular problem with trapped air on the Estelles I'd not worry about a vacuum bled I've just read and followed what's in various Handbooks for old cars (called "classics") and never had any problems. Others have used other systems and had issues mainly I think by not reading the instructions and requirements in the Handbooks and I've never had to leave the cap off or pump a main hose just draining (or syphoning if partial) and steady refills following the book (or "bible" as others joked when I always suggested its use). Same with brakes and hydraulic clutch flushes and bleeds I just use gravity (or push-pedal if in more of a hurry) and one-man-one-jar method and never had problems whereas those using other methods seem to get issues - I suspect because they're in more of a rush. I must admit the idea of drawing the air and fluid up to the highest point did appeal but I never bothered as I'd still got the jars and hoses. It's not that I'm any good at mechanics, the very opposite, but allow lots and lots of time to myself and don't need to prove how fast I can do the job to impress others, but I have made stupid mistakes by being careless, easily resolved but reminded me that I was not as thorough as I thought I was or used to be. I generally loathe working on my own car, or my wife's, but I'm a cheaper idiot than many of the professionals and specialist I've paid lots of money to previously. Most servicing and maintenance boils down to cleaning and lubricating, if you take your time and care you can often do a thorough job with good results. These are very simple cars generally you don't need any special equipment think how basic things might have been for owners in other countries. I used garden hose and buckets for flush, back-flush and flush again, off-cut hose and bungs or cloths and my lungs to evacuate residue from various parts of the cooling/heating system once down to open-ended areas (careful not to hyperventilated). If you want to use a vacuum for emptying, and containing to inspected and safe disposal fine but unless you know different it should not be for worry of bleeding.

No problem. There is so much more info in the Owner's Manual than most realise Sometimes it isn't well written (Skoda) but I've solved problems for others by just following what's in the handbook of various makes and models of cars.

If you find the engine number it might confirm if the engine is the original. If it has a stamped plate with the engine number it can be transferred but often will have the wrong. Another reason for not going strictly by even the Owner's Handbook if you think you're setting the original engine and it's been swapped out with a different engine with different settings. And of course how things were set for a new engine in 1990 will be different to now as it's used and patrols and oils are different. Not being used sine 2021 it could have a lot of airborne debris in the engine bay, you've took the air filter out so that should give you a clue when compared against a brand new one, the rough idle might be a minor clean and/or tweak of the carb but I'd still do a service of the engine and set up before the carb (as it's last in the chain) even if the engine oil looks clean on the dipstick. I also like to do a whole coolant/heating system clean, flush, back-flush, flush and refill, including engine block drain and heating matrix as soon as practical as unnecessary engine heat can cause other issues or upset other systems from best running. Also to see the state of the coolant from the rad, engine block and matrix which can give clues to how well things might be internally. When convenient, like when installing new parts or summer warmer drier weather, I do a more thorough cleaning to include removing the rad, hoses, stat, and matrix and individual flushing off the car. I only do it once then just thorough coolant changes. On the MGs replacing heaterbox seals can mean the heat actually makes it to the cabin and the cabin gets hot (or warmish for MGBs in winter) too hot for Spridgets. Check the coolant system pressure cap as IIRC they could go and make you think it might be HGF.