nta16

Perhaps I should have put they're very reluctant, by coincidence I was with a chap that owners a local Hi-Q tyre place just before Gerrycan posted I could have asked and got the exact details had I known. Perhaps KwikFit see plugging a tyre as a good option against replacing it. I thought I'd heard tyre fitter(s) say they'd not plug a tyre but my memory's not the best and whether that was their personal choice, company policy or just to sell a new tyre I'd not know. That is very bad - they should have at least quoted and tried to sell you a new tyre, or two or four, no matter what the circumstances. 🤣

Right thank you for the replies. So are these are LED lights then and were they LED lights before? Could it be the soldering, are the boards handed to the light units (mirror opposite one side to the other)? If it was me I would take out both units and compare the boards and soldering with with each other and at the same time check all wire connections and depending on the type check that the bulbs are fitted correctly. You've got one side correct so you can go from that perhaps. With things like parts and lights there are various quality of manufacture with some better and more reliable than others. I do not know if you have to use a low powered soldering iron with LED diodes or not but you might(?) for circuit boards.

If you always believe VW (or VWSkoda for pedantics) then previously they recommended not to use fuel additives but of course they may have changed their minds, as they often do about oils and coolant, or the Dealer has, now the cars have Gasoline Particulate Filters. Personally as I put I'd still go for the use of one of the petrols with higher cleaner additive packages for a couple of tankfulls and go for some more entertaining blowout runs rather than just always using the car as a mobile entertainment centre, or just follow the instructions as if you were cleaning the filter (even though the light isn't on, prevention better than cure sort of thing). -

Probably more drinks than you realise may start or contain powder before they become or you made into a liquid drink. Have you never had milkshakes, coffee(?), coco drinks, gravy made up from powder. The "glitters" I got out of the metal expansion tank by using a cheap suction pump were just that, I rubbed them between my fingertips and couldn't feel any grit type feel so don't think they contained any sort of corrosion. My coolant was changed far more frequently than I would want as I every time something was done on the engine or cooling/heating system fresh coolant was put back in. No doubt there would be some corrosion but all the emptying would get much of any loose stuff out. Bar's Leak (now Stop Leak) or Radweld (liquid) products used to be the go to for radiator leaks or cleaning over here. I see Bar's Leak now sell a powdered form but years ago they sold it in a tube in a dried tobacco type form known to some as "dog's turd". Bar's Leak is claimed not to clog a system and I was told that when the local race and road engine builders, Cosworth, were an independent company they would recommend using Bars Leak as a conditioner (in an engine and system without leaks), presumably (?) this is now Bar's Leaks Original(?). To empty the system on my car meant disconnecting a small bottom radiator hose which meant the coolant partly ran over an oily chassis frame so I never bother checking the collected coolant as there would also be all the road and other debris off the chassis frame. Like your car mine lived permanently outside and the neighbour across the road had been rebuilding his property for about 5 years and not the tidiest builder.

So what exactly have you done? Have you swopped or replaced both rear light (lenses) units (to Monte Carlo style)? Did you keep the original wire connectors, bulb holders and bulbs or replaced the connectors, holders and bulbs? I cannot think that replacing standard like for like rear light units would require any 'coding'. Is your model a Spaceback? What is a new backplate? Just for your information, no criticism at all, these are not headlights, headlights are the main lights on the front, these are rear lights (or tail lights).

Are you sure that you have not mixed up the brake with rear side light? Get someone else to press the brake pedal and see if the new side goes dimmer instead of brighter.

Personally I would have the brake fluid changed, brakes are much more important than the engine yet the engine is given priority. Testing is fine but only tells you moisture content at reservoir if the change is done properly it should remove anything else within the whole system. Always reassuring to see very clean brake fluid at a good level in the reservoir - but I'd ask what I get for £69 if it's just a suck out or drain without the scanner ABS block I might not bother. I personally would change the air filter at 2 years as cleaner into and through the engine and out of the exhaust the better for the engine, think of the engine as little more than a big airpump spinning wheels to move you around. You could do that yourself and look at the cabin filter and consider changing. As they effect the braking, steering and suspension tyres are again more important than the engine but the "free visual health check" should highlight anything serious (or not), same for brakes. The services are little more than engine oil and filter changes - and a search for more chargeable work. Rather than a fuel treatment I would sooner put the additional cost to putting in and using a tankful of V-Power or other fuel with greater cleaning additive package before the service and another tankful after the service, same for MoT time, particularly if it's a diesel machine. Petrol. - petrol.pdf You can edit your bio/nameplate/thingy if you want to to alter year and include more info about your model.

Wouldn't it be the same rattle but the clamping makes it more concentrated or transferred to the vicinity of the speedo binnacle. What about the seat squeak(?) (or if you're old like me it might be your body, bones or joints). You're going to have the time of your life with the squeak/creak/rattle from under the front of your car. I applaud your efforts as I can't stand these sort of noises but if things are too quiet I just hear all the different noises at different times from the engine bay as I guess the computer does its good (and evil) stuff, then there's the possible exhaust shield rattle and the intermittent seatbelt/seta squeaks from driver's or front passenger seats and other intermittent stuff. Once you've sorted yours I'll bring ours around to you. 🙂 Sorry, perhaps someone that actually knows will be along later.

Yes I think so, inside side of wheel though I think.

I might be wrong but I think here (generally?) the tyre places won't plug a tyre. (ETA: unless pushed to do so, based on toot's later post here). Plenty of "trades" men and flat bed lorries losing loose nails and screws over here but I think often a good depth of tread can save a serious puncture, no doubt dependant on quantity and quality of your luck. Not to thread drift but if you've been out of the UK for a while you might be surprised at the new builds in certain areas and how they're packed in, many with a garage you can't fit a modern oversized vehicle in so the two or more vehicles are parked on the pavements (walkways). Bungalows are at a premium because of the aging population. Glad you're sorted with the tyre, all's well that ends well as they say.

If you dare you could try disconnecting any connectors to see if the connections are secure and clean inside, it also allows checking the underside of the wires, going from the injectors as far back as you can. Or you could see if someone from this site is able to help you with plugging in a VCDS or similar scan device to see if more diagnostics information is available. - https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&msa=0&ll=21.259901462991746%2C83.39240985000004&z=2

Listening to it a second time it doesn't seem as bad but my wife's 2015 with only 2,000 miles more on it does not sound like that as far as I know. Perhaps it is the audio recording or position of microphone that gives the sound but as a new car to me I would return it to the Dealer to sort. There are so many possibilities, the engines are certainly not the sweetest sounding and as I put I hear all sorts of noises as I guess the computer is doing its stuff. I would try with the engine warmed at idle to see if there are any differences to the sound when getting a glamorous assistant to give the engine various revs, at idle turn the aircon and blower on at the various settings, aircon off loads of electric items on. One noise might cover another but it is free and easy to try, any significant difference or increase in rattle or whine I would record on the phone for the Dealer and tell him what was done to get that difference. For service history does it include changes of air filter, spark plugs, air-con, car battery, brake fluid, tyres, brakes? Any Recall Actions? - Škoda Recall Campaigns. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And in case you need any updates, Update Portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

I was wondering if the "glitters" might be stuck to to some other sort of granule debris but probably just "glitters". Or they might have sealed a leak - but if they're just spare they're out of the system now anyway, gone but not forgotten. 😄

My wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI 90 engine bay makes all sorts of different noises at different times, I assume it's the VW computer programs doing their various good (or evil) operations but it's not quite as noisy as that (not that we have the bonnet open normally) and without so much of that high pitched whine. If it's the fuel pump or something like that then it doesn't sound good to me - what mileage is the car (having low mileage can sometimes be worse than having high mileage), my wife's cars is at 52,000 miles. As put what service, maintenance and repairs history do you have on the car, engine oil & filter changes are not even a full engine service let alone a full whole-car service. Again I don't know what the noise(s) are, others might be along that do, but I'd not accept that and be bouncing the car back to the dealer. This car (model) and cars in general, can have enough problems without starting with those you might have. Do not fall for the over hyped 'German engineering quality' being good, often now it isn't and that goes for the likes of VW VAG group of companies and BMW and Mercs, this ain't the last century.

Sod's Law. I've had it happen a couple of times over the decades with new and recent tyres. Only good side is once the replacement new tyre has lost its "grease" being only a couple of thousands of kilometres of wear newer it should be close enough to the other three as a set of four so just one tyre needed. I've no idea if it's allowed where you are but you could perhaps(?) plug that tyre and it be fine(?).

That is what I was thinking. Too late to know if the "glitters" were stuck to anything else but I'd not worry about it. Come the hottest weather and hottest driving you will find out for sure. I would think it most likely that any problem would more likely be from existing detritus already build up or inside the radiator, engine waterways, heater matrix, system generally, perhaps may be a sealant might add to the existing issue but I don't know, I would think the margins would have already had to be close to clogging up already. After the K-Seal had been added to my radiator I changed the radiator as I did not know its full history, that was a mistake as although the new (brass) radiator was supposed to have been a good replica it was not that well made and the swap made no difference to the cooling. I only changed as I cannot stand unexpected car problems, particularly when far from home and Sod's Law dictates that is when they often happen. As I put I would forget about it and carry on driving.

Turafalle in polvere per radiatori is powder leak stopper for radiators perhaps combined with coolant that creates some "glitters" again you could contact the manufacture. A breakdown service added K-Seal to my car's system as it got a leak to the radiator when I was far from home, it sealed the leak but later I notice dark brown or brass type (I forget which) "glitters" in the metal expansion tank. Your "glitters" might have been from either of those powder sealants, or even perhaps the Amsoil additive, or perhaps even a coolant, or a reaction from any combination. As everything else seems clear then perhaps these "glitters" have just come to the top of the system and residing in the expansion bottle. I'd not worry about it at all. Next coolant change if you wanted to you could not only drain the existing coolant but also perhaps clean and/or thoroughly flush, back-flush and flush again the whole system and thoroughly drain before refilling with fresh new coolant.

Yes stalk, wiring or connections. As put if you cab actuate the wiper with the scan tool it would put you a step forward with working it out. Except me you've got the right people here but I'll 'Report' the thread to get it moved to the Mk2 section. If you want you could add more info to your name plate, as mine only as an example.

What about the wiper switch.

Are you sure it is from the Amsoil additive (was it green in colour). If so then contact Amsoil showing the photos and ask them. Have you used any sort of coolant system sealer previously? As you probably know when changing different to coolants or additives it is best to clean and thoroughly flush, back-flush and flush again the whole system to get out as much existing residue as possible and even then unless you take the whole system apart and out of the car there will always be some residue left but hopefully very diluted by the cleaning and flushes. Even taking hoses, radiator and heater matrix out of a car it is hard to get everything out of the radiator I have found and the engine will still have some residue in it.

I think smaller battery capacity is less work perhaps for the alternator if it is old and tired but if the car and engine are not generally easier starters then bigger and more reserve might be useful especially if in cooler environments and/or greater electric consumption by the driver and perhaps passengers. Depending on cold starting I might go for a smaller battery and perhaps when required (well before it gets too low) top the battery up with the battery charger and maintainer and this battery could possibly (well) outlast the car.

Fuel economy is certainly one measure of performance but does E10 or E5 noticeably effect the driving performance for better or worse?

2.5 mm that will frighten many here in the UK they're unhappy with having to change at the legal limit here of 1.6mm across three-quarters of the tread. Your roads and their surfaces and your tyre compounds I suspect are different to here in the UK (well what road surfaces we have left) and of course climate, as I've seen before Aus tyre pressures being set a lot higher there than here. Being used to "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars and their generally tight fisted owners it's not unusual to see "classic" with old hard tyres with loads of tread on them from age and lack of use over years or even decades so the owners that do (or have to) change to new tyres can find night to day changes. It can go the other way too with tyres swapping from worn but good performance tyres to new but not so good performance tyres and it can feel like two steps backwards even on a modest machine like a1987 Skoda Estelle 2 130. Many in the UK run 'summer' tyres all year round despite them losing performance below 10C (that could be an odd summer's day let alone the rest of the year here) but certainly in some parts of the countries (plural) if the driver is older it's what they experienced for many decades so are used to adjusting their driving to the prevailing conditions. It's good to have a real world review and promotion of possibly benefits of changing the tyres, much more important than fiddling or farting about with the engine.

So much for the Porsche thing, at least the RAC machine has given you a starting point. Get your magnifying glass out and full human senses diagnostics, eyes, touch, ears, nose, taste (some can also be used for detecting drinks and food breaks). Sod's Law whether you start at injector or battery ends it'll be nearer the other. Usual check all wires and connectors are clean, secure and protected and go from there. Good luck.

Fair enough, it's the only VIN I can think of, you plug a decent machine in and it finds the vehicle's VIN automatically, the one I borrow has IIRC 155 different vehicle manufacturers across the world many of which I've never heard of, last update was for a Maybach, being, German and Merc I bet there's a lot of very big update files just about every time one is worked on. For all I know with VW's very legacy system VIN could mean Volkswagen Inscrutable Numeric. Vin was always the bloke you avoided if he'd had a few drinks but I don't think VW knew of him. I've got a feeling a mate took a photo of the VIN plate on a car and got its info from that through his "smart" phone, if I remember I'll ask him when I see him Friday if that's right or I dreamt it. I've now gone as dim as a TocH lamp.