nta16

Blimey are you off the mainland. If there's no one local then that's it, be interesting to know what the final outcome is and reporting back can help others if they have the same or similar issues. Our neighbour's niece got a job as a midwife on one of the islands and by coincidence a number of years before a friend considered a job as a midwife at somewhere like Thurso but was put off by the x-hours to the nearest main supermarket and other amenities.

Shame. Depends how you view £700 expenditure on a 3-year old car. If it's a permanent fix then £700 spread over the rest of the life of the car doesn't seem as bad. But then I'm used to money pit cars.

What the owner didn't say in that video was his rear windows are clear glass and interior and seats are a light grey colour, or they used to be. I'm very surprised he's not got smoked rear lights and number plate. They must love him where he drives.

[ETA: Chiselwizard,] see also these posts below. If @fabdavrav is prepared to go Dingwall way and also in your sort of area they might be able to help you with the start of diagnostics at least - not that I know the person or if this could be done or is acceptable to the person. I was able to go to someone on here that was local to me and able to help me with coding the battery in for a modest beer token.

I don't blame you at all for not want to work on the car, I've not from the age of about 25. To be fair they should only take notice of what you report as the fault and check for themselves but if they had brain power and manners they'd note anything relevant you report and deal with you in a courteous way - but that's the motor trade for you (not all but many/most). You don't have to give the Dealer your business or money there are independents and general garages or if you're certain it's electrics then Auto-electricians, many are mobile so come to you, they've probably dealt with the issue before if they go to VWs. Did the Dealer say if the £140 would come off the repair bill if you had the work done there? This was the offer the local Merc Dealership offered my neighbour (but £174 plus VAT IIRC) luckily I persuade her to try elsewhere and she found a local garage that knew all about the problem and worked on Mercs, looked at the car and gave her a quote, done all the work including sorting another computer error code and the neighbour was very pleased and the vehicle sounds a lot better to me as it passes by. A 2019 car has a lot more on it and to it than a 2009 car and VW are obsessed with making the computer programs over-complicated and over-intrusive and intertwined , helps hide cheats I suppose, but then so were BMW going back a while. I'm bias as I've never liked or accepted the hype about German cars build quality. You could consul yourself with the fact your 2009 BMW would be throwing up issues unless you already had to sort them in recent years. If your problem is just this replacement repair switch then surely that's not so bad, bloody annoying though. If you know anyone with a decent level scan tool they could give you a report, personally I'd have the battery fully charged, do a scan report, then clear any error codes and then scan again, a few times if required until you see what error code(s) appear first. I am not saying it will be the case for you but it's not unknown for previous errors not to reappear once the decks have been cleared. But with a 2019 car you might need to stand on one leg and point north to satisfy the computers needs. Obviously if the problem is a mechanical/electro-mechanical switch then that needs rectifying to rightly satisfy the computer because it's actually doing it's job properly. The bloke in the video, how far away does he live, what's his hourly rate? 🙃

Now I will see them everywhere! But how then do you keep the dust down on the upholstery. Now that has burst the bubble I was hoping it would reduce the wind noise, especially whilst driving along with the windows down a bit to get more outside air into the car. Do others find increased wind noise with deflectors fitted?

I've no mechanical skills but jobs like that are more awkward than difficult just allow yourself lots of time, it doesn't matter how quick (or slow) others do the job you just take your time, take lots of photos, notes, drawings, have the correct tools to hand and if you hit a snag just take a tea break. Other than using a Torx 10 screwdriver on Torx 9? (8?) screws I thought the video was very good and showed he took time to work it out. Whilst you think about how you want to proceed you might, after the battery is fully charged just try and see if clearing the error code or a good few cycles of turning the ignition on with use and being positive (without force) with selecting 'P' without force and what ever else requirements are needed in the procedure makes things less or more intermittent with the warning coming up. The problem might be common but it doesn't always follow that the common cause is the one you have - although probably most likely. Unless you're lucky you might not get it booked in for repair the next day so you will probably have a time to find out if things stay the same, improve or get worse. I wonder if we'll see additional problems on the vehicles built during the Covid and chip shortage times. Have you rang the dealer to see if there's a recall or discount repair for this issue, though I very much doubt given the honesty and morality usual shown by these car manufacturers.

🤣 I didn't even notice them in roottoot's photo until I looked harder, perhaps DieselMonte is right and I just don't notice them. The optician said I didn't need glasses for driving but I think he might have just got worn down trying to sort what lenses would work on me.

Perhaps I just don't notice them, I'm not very observant at the best of times, I try to warn people about this particularly if they see me driving. I have noticed a few cars with them on but not very many and not so much recent years, but I don't get out a lot -though I'm told I need to. 🙂

And just imagine how good that feels. 😊 Until the next bit of German engineering "quality" on the car fails that is, but let's be positive and say that won't be until after the weekend. 😁

I can't remember what I fitted on my wife's 2015 Mk 3, possibly a few years back, possibly Bosch, a looser fit to the arm than the factory original but it continues to work fine.

You must always allow for the angle of the dangle, or so the experts say.

Happy Birthday to you.

Yes I've seen some of those posts but charging the battery is relatively cheap and easy and won't hurt but could help with other stuff even if not this. The recent very hot weather will take a toll on batteries with hastening some to recharging and replacement this autumn and winter, prevention is better than cure. A couple of times recently I broke my own rule of keeping to the basics first on a car type and model which I actually know a little bit about, and have decades of experience, and went through a number of sexy possibilities to Sod's Law be told it was some very simple thing that would've been covered in basic checks, so I'm back to the very simple basics, which is all I know about these cars. Hope you get it sorted for a reasonable cost.

It might be the pedal or related sensor, have you checked for error codes? On your full service (engine only or whole car) did you also clean MAF/throttle body and replace air filter?

Surely this is all just a Friday afternoon wind-up.

Uhm, didn't know such stuff is still sold, might be an idea as a present for my wife's car. The video (for Octavia) says you might not need to fit them and suggest the use of a rubber conditioner for fitment. Though Gummi Pflege (just Rubber Care in German) might just be an over expensive VW recommended, I can't say as I've never used it. I'd use GT85 or AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel for the installation of deflectors and metal clips, as that's what I use on the door seals (or you could use silicone).

I know it takes longer but personally I would take out the fuses and test them individually one at a time, that way you should not make the mistake of putting them back in the wrong location which can be easy to do if there are gaps or more than one fuse removed at once. I would ask give them a visual inspection and clean them as required, electrical contact cleaner for blades at least. Just taking them out and putting them back in is a type of quick crude cleaning with the grip of contact. Also taking the time to fully check and clean each fuse can perhaps say you time later if you spend time checking other items to have to come back to find it is a faulty fuse or fuse connection.

Fair enough, the cheap/free, quick and easy basics can often be forgotten. If it's not a wire(s) or connection issue then as has been put it's the pump as the module is part of the pump - not that I know from experience but only what I've read on this forum.

I'll bang this in for good measure and to save my typing finger.

ETA: thomasaspin posted whilst I was typing, so two for battery - recharge, long, low and slow off the car is best but any good recharge will help (until you deplete the battery again). If it's electric then check the state of charge of your battery, even if the car starts and the lights . Also check all electrical connections that you can but especially the battery terminal clamps are clean and secure, same for earth connections. You could get a multimeter out, or a scan tool to look for error codes or an appropriate battery charger and recharge for as long and low as possible. Hot weather isn't good for the battery (or it's charging system) and the recent very hot weather will be worse.

If I have misunderstood you just ignore me. If you are doing a voltage test on the fuse you need to check both sides of the fuse, otherwise you could be just checking the 'live' supply side and not that the fuse transfers this to the other side (I hope that makes sense).

Was that a Continuity bleep from testing each fuse when removed from the fuse box?

There are greater ambient temperature variations over even a day is some parts of the country let alone continents so you'd have to make allowances for this. Usually we're only told to check the tyres when they're 'cold' - "i.e. before you’ve made any journeys that day. This is because warm or hot tyres that have recently been driven on may give inaccurate pressure readings." - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/how-to/checking-tyre-pressure/#when-should-i-check-my-tyre-pressure You could have different pressure readings on the four tyres when 'cold' just because one or more are in direct sun or out of the sun and shaded. Part of the problem with ride comfort is the decades old fashion to have oversized wheels and tyres with low profile tyres, a smaller wheel with higher profile tyre would aid ride comfort and it wouldn't make any odds to handling and road holding for the majority of the owners and use of most models. My neighbour's 'motorized shopping trolley', though it's very rarely used as that or anything else, has the optional extra larger (alloy instead of steel) wheels with lower profile tyres, form over function.

Might not be anything to do with this problem but it's always worth checking the state of charge of the battery with these cars as a low battery can throw up all sorts of odd messages and warnings, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. This is especially so if your car only gets lots of short journey use and/or you've got devices that run after the engine is off. The hot weather doesn't help the battery either - though I don't know how much of that you got in the far north of Scotland. If you've got a multimeter you could see what the battery reads sitting in the car at rest, do this a good while after the car has been driven, then start the car and take another reading as the engine is running. If you don't have a multimeter then if you have an appropriate battery charger/maintenance put it on and leave to charge as long as possible and see if that helps your issue. Even a new battery can be depleted with use, after three years of certain use it could need a renovation charge. Cheap and easy stuff to check (if you have access to multimeter and/or battery charger/maintenance). Good luck.