nta16

Perhaps the thread title should be 'Inferior fans only working on highest setting' - but that would be unfair on the fans. There are four 'speed' settings - quiet, acceptable, noisy, very noisy - they're controlled by how much the front seat occupants can take of the noise.

Personally I think they might be, I'm a reasonable person and used to have handlings with what was latter called conflict dispute, what just used to be customer service which is now something different. Less reasonable people will give a different view only you can decide which is tight or suits you. See if they ring back, if not up your figure. (things move quicker than I can type). Without everything that's gone on recorded 'in writing' they'll only offer what they want or are forced to. As they told you there was nothing wrong and then were reluctant to take the car back for checking to later find there was a problem obviously they done something wrong. As you've found the left and right hands keep apart, you need to be dealing with the correct person and hope they're decent, if not you can "escalate" things. You really want to be contacting the Dealership Principal (or whatever title they have) and present them with the full facts including chronology with as much evidence as you can to back up your side. Keep calm and factual, present and give reasonable reply times (you've got a loan car anyway). Whether a brand new car is better than your existing one can vary, an extra couple of months warranty is nothing if the car is going back with more claims, zero claims doesn't need much warranty but in the car world of 2022 you might be better with as much warranty as possible 5, 10 years(?). Such a pity the original Daewoo way of selling cars was killed off, the trouble with any new car seems to be the English dealerships and has been for decades now. The Skoda dealerships were a lot, lot better before they became VW Skoda.

Check after the engine hasn't run for a good while, take a note of the figure, then if you can get someone to start the car and note what the multimeter figure is at starting and after it measure with the engine (and alternator) running and note all three figures. Cheap digital multimeters tend to be a bit inaccurate and unreliable but the difference in figures should show what's needed.

Both check you're car battery for state of charge and if possible use an appropriate battery charger for as long and slow as you can. After a reasonable charge if the lights and warning don't reappear (unless the battery is depleted again) then you'll have learnt about the importance of the state of battery charge especially to modern cars and particularly VWs (among others). And yes the weather does also make a difference.

@Dyl4n great you're getting the GT85 for general use but don't you ever go near any shops as I've never found amazon lowest price on anything I've looked at and the last two can of GT85, one for a neighbour, were £2 each, wish I could remember from where though, both cans were fine and I'm still using both for me and the neighbour. I will declare I stopped buying from amazon a few years back as I've hardly plugged the DVD player back into the mains let alone turned it on. Paper is fine to try, beer mat might be too thick - it's free and easy to try say it's a paper template if you want. I fine the plastics tend to move, vibrate, squeak more when its cold and perhaps damp so if the paper works you may need to modify it later in the year. If this works debate on the weight of paper, number of folds or alternative materials available may be discussed.

@rum4mo not all but a lot in the States (and they are in states) are brainwashed about a number of things going back decades and for generations and some seem to think they're separate from the rest of the world - but I've already got a couple of bullets with my name, altho' one said I was worth the 2c(?). 😄 WD-40 do numerous lubricating sprays, such as GT85, some might be netter than others that was the way I was thinking of Krytox.

An extremely unpopular view of mine on this site is that it might have been more economic overall for you to have considered a Toyota or Honda model - may I burn in hell. 🤣 I also tell others to avoid the car I've owned for the last 15 years as I'm not blinked to marque loyalty (btw it's not a VW (Skoda).

Yeah but saying Krytox is like saying Ford, there's lots of variations they all might be brilliant or some better than others. I can't dispute any as I don't know but I'm free to question it as I don't have anything to worry about from an American corporation or 'family', who needs enemies when you have certain Americans as 'friends'.

Hello, welcome, it is English for posting on this forum, unless someone reads German and replies. I see you have already found the updates thread, pabs is Polish and I have no idea if he reads German so you might want to use the following Google translation there. - Hello guys 😊 I am urgently looking for a new update for my car radio with the number 5E0035020A .Hardware:H41.Software:0196. VIN number: TMBJJ7NE7E0068558.Bj2014 If someone can help me, I would be very happy 😀

I'd check out the cost of dmf and clutch work if I was you I don't think it's cheap. I don't know what you get on your model but ours has a speed limiter you can set (by not cruise control), not my favourite features but both can have their uses though I've never liked cruise control and never really used it from my first experience decades back. A 7 year old car will have passed a few service/maintenance requirements not all on the standard listed schedules and many owners don't bother with them so you're best to find as much servicing, maintenance and repair, history as you can. A £220 service (whatever that refers to) may be spot on for your car or it might not be enough or cover items missed previously. I'll leave it to roottoot, or others, to give servicing schedule and any details on clutch, dmf. If you always drive a diesel slow (and on short journeys) it will clog up at some point.

Not disagreeing just thinking if that'd be more of a rattle and if so perhaps from the door catch, hopefully not the hinges. I've never heard of Krytox so it might be the best thing since sliced bread but I remember with VW's Eos folding roof seals it was suggested to use a product called Gummi Pflege which I discovered was just German for Rubber Care, now VW seem to be on Krytox. A quick Google and Krytox seems to be an offshoot of DuPont and Krytox has Teflon as one of their brands (possibly some sort of corporate/family dodge as they're not been the most pleasant of owners). Krytox AUT U14 "Low viscosity PFPE oil with soluble UV indicator - Elastomer weather seals" (I wonder what the UV indicator is about). Krytox GPL 105 "Medium viscosity, additive free PFPE oil - Headrest posts, seatbelt mechanism, interior surface NVH". https://www.krytox.com/en/products/automotive If it's a door rattle from door to body movement there can be another explanation but that's another matter.

If you have some spray you might as well give it a go, at least it will lubricate the seals and offer a little protection. As sprays tend to go everywhere, and Sod's Law to places you don't want it to, best to use a straw on the can nozzle or apply to cloth or sponge first. Follow the instructions and the can and shake the can well if directed. If you need to buy a spray get GT-85 as it has other uses too and smells nice (once British but taken over by the American WD-40 Company years back).

That would probably be more about wind noise (but perhaps if really bad(!) rattle from the door catches). Putting something on the door/window rubbers can generally help as a form of lubricating. I use AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil applied with a 35mm cube of sponge or a silicone spray or GT-85. But if the door is rattling I doubt lubricating the seals will do much to help with that.

The Workshop manual is available on the net as a pdf but I can't remember where I got my copy. (hope this all displays for you)

Rattles and noises annoy me too particularly if I don't know the cause - but all is not lost yet. Noises like leaks have a habit of not showing at where they originate so you do need to check. If you can get someone else to drive you can be in the back seat with a listening device - length of hose (garden, fuel, coolant, I've even used vacuum cleaner) and check that the noise is from the seatbelt adjuster or the B-pillar and not elsewhere. My wife identified a buzz type rattle as being from the seatbelt reel(s) of my car but it's intermittent and internal, been like it for years and the seatbelts are fully functioning so I ignore it. Next post I have 'how to' remove top and bottom parts.

@R_Blue you are doing very well already and with a lot more knowledge than many drivers. Best to avoid the hazards than adapt as you can encounter more than you expect and sooner than you expect. I was told a few driving tips when I was young, before I could drive, and having a young mind some of them stuck but putting them into practice is another learning experience. I've not encounter much standing water or floods but I did once panic at an unexpected event and got myself into trouble I need not have, that reinforces the memory. I think possibly that English isn't your first language if you think my writing is good. 🤣

@R_Blue I did wonder how experienced you are. It is always easier to see someone else's mistakes, I make many of my own every day. Generally you need to adjust your driving to the conditions, at times when the roads are not dry and light on traffic, pedestrians, animals and other potential hazards you need to allow more space for slowing and stopping. Always best to also look further ahead than the vehicle in front to see what is coming up. For water/flood/water it's best to allow or wait for someone else to clear the flood/ford/water as they may get stuck and if you are in the water with them this may block your exit. Also if you watch where they go to get through you will be able to see how deep the water is at those points and may be able to take a similar path but you must allow for any differences in the vehicles. Having two vehicles in the same flood water is not a good idea, particularly vehicles coming from the other direction as they can push higher water towards you, particularly the idiots that go too fast, they may be fine as they may have a higher set vehicle so the water is relatively lower to them or they might get themselves stuck. Go through flood/ford/water slower but keep going particularly if it is deeper as you want the exhaust gases to be able to escape otherwise the water could block their exist and your engine will stop. Do not suddenly brake hard as the water could wash back on your vehicle (don't ask me how I know). If you are by yourself and presented with flood water and no real indication of how deep it is you can - 1) turn around and go back, 2) wait for someone else to go through and make a judgement whether you can too, 3) if you are really desperate you could walk out into the flood water using a long stick to check the path and water depth before you to get to the other side but this could be dangerous and you could get very wet. Every time you go through water that could get onto your brakes you should test and dry your brakes straight away. As you have found water can get into other places too which is why you want to avoid water getting splashed around by you or others going too fast. Now you have a bit of experience you should be better prepared for next time but prevention is better than cure so if you can avoid such conditions then do.

I always like to try the quick, easy and free things first, particularly if it keeps my hands clean. If the car is under warranty you could perhaps get them to have a look but sometimes it's as rum4mo says and it can also be even if you do it yourself, taking plastic clipped panels off and on can introduce further issues, hopefully a lot les so in a 4 year old car, and you might not even fully stop the rattle. A knock I think might be a different issue but what I judge as a knock might be different to you. Perhaps slightly adjusting the seat might easy the seatbelt noise. If you can do a recording of the noise it might(?) help. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Have you checked that the seatbelt adjuster is fully locked into position (3 IIRC). From the owners manual. -

I'd try the front to rear tyres suggestion already given. Also check you're not close to a steam railway track.

As you've already found sometimes buying a part or component that is "cheap" at initial purchase price can work out to be expensive or very expensive in the long, medium and even short term. As a generalisation a tyre that gives very high miles of tread wear isn't very grippy and with an AWD you may without realising it well drive faster than you think so put more wear to the tyres. For price it's often lower to order off their website than at the actual tyre place, crazy I know but there you are, don't forget to add in to your web order any extras you want or need (wheel alignment, any special balancing, etc.).

Do bear in mind a cheaper job isn't always a better or less expensive job overall. I've no idea of the cost or which of those garages are good or bad but my personal experience is that some think of customers like something very smelly they've trod in and treat you that way or even rip you off. A car new to you will often need more than a "full service" (engine oil & filter change and 'free' visual checks) or even a proper full real service some of which, if not all, you can do yourself as much boils down to clean and lubricate.

Always worth at least checking. I don't think it's worth changing the battery unless your other one is a new and fully charged battery, they're not always particularly either, so the other battery might not be as good as the one already fitted but if yours is new and fully charged and you want to check for yourself. Bear in mind Breezy_Pete is the electric expert here certainly not me, and sepulchrave knows his oily onions (hope he checks them regularly) though they make him cry a lot (which ones I don't know).

David, don't worry, the unofficial Thread Police are very fast here but not particularly diplomatic. This one his bark is worse than his bite and is very often helpful and correct (except for rare mistakes). It will help if you change your logo(?) info to show your car year is a 2005 (if I've got that right) and perhaps help in the future if you also add more detail on the model, engine size, type, etc.. The brakes always want to be your number one concern - probably better to start a new thread and thread tittle for them, spamming or not. 😄 The oil light sounds like it's doing what it should, wants it say about this in your Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual. Again a separate thread would be best if required. On thread topic and possibly relevant, if you've had charging problems and the car battery is low this can cause all sorts of problems with systems so do check your car battery is well charge and in good condition and the connections are good, just driving doesn't always help so do check.

Not being creative I didn't put that well it's not just about the appearance it's about being able to use the tool without having been trained through the legacy systems and not being overcome with joy to see a slide rule and tables. Different strokes for different folks. I certainly don't worry too much about underwear as a quick look at my washing line would prove, I wear rags as well as use them on dirty, messy, greasy, oily cars.