nta16

Too late for many databases as the errors go back decades and have become so embedded, intricated and copied and included in other combined and extended databases and there are just so many copies of the faulty databases so widely spread. Computers and the internet have speed up and exasperated the errors and contributed to them and spread them so far and wide that if one database is corrected there could still be thousands or millions of uncorrected copies here, there and everywhere. Same as in the past sometimes it can work to some people's benefit, example the same part can have two or more part numbers, availability and retail price so the same part for an expensive item could be bought using the less expensive item part number as it's just a matter of labelling. On the other side history is rewritten as misinformation and errors are taken as fact and the genuine fact is lost in the mist of time - of course this doesn't really matter when it's only about car parts.

Have you checked your menu settings, any exterior lights on at same time as ignition, checked your Driver's Handbook for info?

Sorry I meant this video all the way through but on second listen it's probably just noise from the microphone and recording. -https://youtu.be/ap2tfupj2Po

Add in the overall condition of the vehicle, at the start of this thread Romanyshawky put that he had cleaned all the parts with car cleaner yet then puts up a photo where the throttle spindles and discs are still very contaminated, untouched.

HappySkoda, do not believe all you read and always consider that all databases can have errors and omissions, you need to cross reference any information you get with as many other reliable sources that you can. Errors are often copied from one database to the next and additional errors and omission can be introduced at these stages too. Manufacturers and other companies often have errors in their publications which do not get corrected. For videos (and photos most often) you will literally get more in them (and the frame) if you hold the phone on its side (landscape instead of portrait). HTH.

Just curious, in the video, what's all the hissing like a snake on heat and is that oil cap and what's beneath standard?

I don't know what the Carista (basic?) tool does but I'm pretty sure a successful battery coding would sort your issue. If you're near Northampton my neighbour has (a higher level) scan tool that would code the battery, It sorted our other neighbour's 2005 Merc - but not my mates 2004 German made droptop which was a bit annoying because he paid extra to get the one that covered that car just as a project where three other professional specialist had failed. The Merc had just had a service and MoT at an outfit very local to us and she got told the ECU on her gearbox (CVT) needed sorting as it was slipping, and she said the car didn't seem to want to go, stuck in 2nd gear(?) (in a CVT, but it's a Merc so has 7 "gears"!). She rang a local g/box place and they said it had to go to Mercs, she booked it in at a £174 diagnosis, which would be put towards the bill if she had the work done. Luckily it was booked in for three days time so next night I got her to do a quick throttle reset (dead easy) that might or might not be appropriate or work. Next afternoon my neighbour was going to lend me the scan tool but decided to do it himself instead (lack of faith in me?). Readings, resets, off for a quick drive as I read the TCM readings from the back seat, although we didn't get the gear oil as hot as I'd like all readings were good and no sign of slippage, gears changed as required. £174 (inc VAT?, exc VAT?) saved and a very happy neighbour. Obviously it was the throttle reset I advised on wot dun it! 😁 Even with all these scan tools and very over-complicated car computer programs (VAG for proven reasons) more often than not it boils down to the simple basics but these tools can help to speed up where to look (if it's not just the car's computers getting their panties in a twist) and if used correctly speed up the diagnostics, if interpreted correctly, but never rely on the raw errors codes or the lack of them.

Check, but I think a regen will stop before it's finish if your fuel level is low, always have say a minimum of a quarter of a tank (just for the sake of a measure) and if the running conditions aren't right. The regen conditions want to be as constant and consistent as possible, and it makes it easier on the car and it's computers if you have minimal electrics and other operations going on. Can't dispute 310golfr figures but doing a regen at idle is wasteful and potentially hazardous to surroundings and people, remember if you're standing or sitting there all that diesel exhaust **** is going to your lungs a lot less diluted than on the open road where you're also putting the fuel to more use. As well as considering what comes out you have consider what's going in, cleaner in is better so regular servicing using good quality engine oil changed in a timely manner, same for air filter and cleaning of injectors and sensors, general maintenance of hoses, pipes, connectors and gasket and seals. Regular use (you decide what you can put up with as regular) of 'super' diesel fuel or perhaps an additive must be better based on my experience of driving my wife's previous car that was a diesel, accelerating at a test location with standard diesel would give a cloud of black smoke but when using the V-Power on the very few times when I dove the car and needed to fill the tank it was a cloud of silver-grey. On a road I saw an Aldi putting out the most black smoke I'd ever seen from a car, then realised it was a neighbour's car, it's all black with smoked black rear number plate, I now wonder if the car was originally white.

No it changed, because later cars still have the ancient technology that just about followed the horse and cart manufacturers keep trying to get the nth degree of mpg and pretend to be less harmful so systems are shaved so thin you have to stand on one leg whilst pointing north so as to keep in the narrowest of margins needed to meet the requirements - or go to cheat modes. 😁 I still check my car's dipstick when the oil is cold but the engine is from the 1970s (well 50s really).

Sorry I was thinking of the previous caution of checking the 44Kw level when cold and it's there, see below. Page 23 shows the engine oil warning light to be as standard for low oil pressure (they used to take that bulb out in the old 1100/1300s if it flicked too much to save worry).

That's only for the 44Kw and possibly (but I don't know) it was different in earlier and/or later books for many and various reasons. Yes (but it's not 3.5l 😉), wot's it 'ave about the 44Kw, I forgot to look and tea is now served (dinner to Merc owners 😁 ).

So assuming (always dangerous) you have the correct Owner's Manual (I'm a disciple of all good books) you have the 2011/11 copy. - https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Fabia_54/11-2011/Manual/Fabia/A05_Fabia_OwnersManual.pdf From - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/Models

Just seen this in the 2012/5 Owner's Manual. ETA: cross posting - is yours a 77Kw (at 3.6l)?

This doesn't sound right. A quick cold oil drain will leave more old oil and muck in than a warm/hot oil drain left for a long time but there's always some left in so starting at 3 out of 3.5 should have it well up the stick (perhaps even overfull on a sloppy change). Are you sure the fill capacity including the filter is 3.5l? ETA: Only ever fill to the Max don't put in 3.5l if it requires less, better to underfill (above Min) and top up as required than overfill.

(I edited in a bit about discharging the battery in my previous post whilst you were typing) Well I'm not a fan of German cars Merec, BMW, and dare I say it here VW. I will give you Merc for their diesel engines (all that practice with taxis and delivery vans 😉) and auto boxes but I had mates with Mercs from the bean-counter days and remember years back talking to someone in the posher 'ouses on why he'd got shot of his 5 year old 5-Series and got a 10 year old Lexus (LM400) as a temporary car and it was a revelation to him (but I also remember Lexus dealerships first setting up here, all of a sudden Jag owners' wives were getting flowers from the Jag Dealership when the cars were in there, so lots of flowers). I particularly have it in for Mercs as a mate stole a fortnight of my life on a 20 minute tour of his parked up new grandma Merc coupe "with oxblood leather interior", it was red, and this was on my surprise (joint) 50th birthday bash at another mate's microbrewery, I was only so polite because his wife was with him - he doesn't drink let alone proper ale, he didn't even keep the car long. Toyota are still reliable I believe (perhaps not as good as of old), I know a couple of people with 20+ year Toyotas (Yaris and Supra) they barely get serviced let alone need much other work. Hondas seem the same. Old Nissans and Micras are fine but don't forget they've been under the influence of Renault for a good number of years so at the same time Merc were going through their bad patch Nissan were starting theirs. Pity Daihatsu aren't still over here, until he had to stop driving next door had a 20 year old neglected one yet it was bullet-proof. Uhmmm, seems to be a theme to all these reliable cars but you do have to get passed the weak link of English Dealerships of course. Gonna have to slap your wrist there, even if it has a low oil level warning light (does it?, oil level?) you shouldn't be relying on it, do the unrefined and use the dipstick that way you can tell the oil level and perhaps something about the oil on it (colour, smell, consistency). 🙂

No worries. That is a problem with relying on just error codes (or the lack of them) there's clearly something wrong yet it hasn't yet breached the computer programs' parameters which is why a good mechanic is always wanted. DSG work is a good example of where a scan tool can be very useful but personally I also think the old stuff of changing the g/box oil (careful possibility of four types?) also helps as although the gearbox has the electronics and computer programs it's still very mechanical and a lot of car mechanical servicing and maintenance boils down to just cleaning and lubricating which a thorough change of oil is both. As your car is 2012 rather than just turning the ignition off and back on for the computers' "off 'nd on agun" I'd try disconnect the battery from the car overnight, discharge any lurking electricity in the car by touching the two battery cables together for about 20 seconds or so and also turning the headlight switch on. With the battery disconnected I'd take the chance to do a long low slow recharge) and resync any remote keyfobs and anything else on the car relate, all a sort of reboot/refresh/reset sort of thing. As part of the servicing of just the engine I'd look at changing (as required) the air filter and spark plugs and getting the correct cans of MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner and allow for resets from cleaning these. I'd also check the cabin filter having seen the state of one recently. Of course this would be after the more important items like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), lights, glass areas - and seatbelts and restraint systems 😁 but it's difficult to check some of these things if the engine isn't right. A lot of PO/owners seem to think a service is just engine oil and filter change, I know some people really do a very full and detailed regular service on their cars but all of the "full service" histories I've seen have generally only covered the basics and often then not within manufacturer's date or mileage. I always suggest to an owner getting a "classic" (over-valued and over-priced old car) that they carry out a rolling full 36k-mile check and service whilst using the car regularly on reasonable length journeys to iron out the wrinkles, and discover more with use - but the same can be applied to any car out of warranty and over or approaching 36k-miles. Good luck.

I'm not mechanical or an expert in anything but I do wonder about the previous servicing, maintenance and driving of the car if just changing the engine oil and filter has made it a lot quieter (and I'm a big fan of good quality of work in oil changes and the use of good quality oils). Obviously things can snap or break in an instant even after gradual wear but I'd not restrict the thinking to just the chain and tensioner though they may be involved. These things often start with a rattle, though if the tensioner goes it can be messy for the engine. Which is why I suggest getting it sorted ASAP - but it might be something else. Plugging in a good scan tool may bring up error codes that someone who knows what they're doing will be able to interpret from and go forward with the diagnostics (never just go on raw error codes). Another advantage of the good scan tool is that it could pick up error messages without needing to run the engine, initially at least, I would be very reluctant to run the engine sounding like that until I had more certainty about the cause of the noise. It might be valves but to me (that doesn't really know) on that video recording it sounded very loud. Diesels even from new are loud so it might not seem as loud to you but I've got a very old noisy car so it's not like I'm used to RR engine noise either. Perhaps I'm being over cautious but generally I'm nowhere near as particular about having the mechanics of a car as near to spot as reasonable on as I used to be. Good luck, let us know how you get on, other more knowledgeable poster may come along later.

True, plus supplementary restraint systems too then. When I was taught to drive although front seatbelts were fitted to cars, but certainly not to all especially the older ones, it wasn't law to wear front seatbelts until over 5 years later. It was all fields around here when I was a young girl but a lot has changed since then . . .

Meridion, I don't know what it is (only guess) but on that video it sounds very loud and wants sorting ASAP, gawd knows what that other VAG owner's vehicle is like if he thinks that's normal! It won't be E10 petrol, some reassurance and proof here. - https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/Škoda Who changed the engine oil and filter and didn't say or do anything about that noise? You need a proper mechanic to listen to and look at that, preferably with a suitable scan tool. But do remember the engine isn't the most important component or system on the car, much more important are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), lights and glass areas.

Really annoying, perhaps you have better or different hearing or your unit just makes more noise. Try contacting Skoda or where you bought the car from again, perhaps a recorded/registered paper letter to any high level director of manager of either , or both, of the business with a copy of the email you sent saying you didn't get a reply. Also try phoning them, sometimes if you are lucky you might get someone willing to help or at least point you in the right direction. With issues like these you have to remain persistent and calm which gets increasingly more difficult but you have to. If you throw enough mud at a wall some of it might stick. Good luck.

Do you start the engine with any electric items on (such as cabin heater, air-con, heated seats/glass areas, etc.) or with all electric items switched off? This circular saw sound, cutting soft wood, hard word, plastic, just spinning? ETA: - or as above post 🙂 -which leads me on to have you changed your or looked at 'pollen' filter?

Above sounds very good advice. I'm just curious, how do you recalibrate the DSG box, scan tool, disconnect car battery, driving, other?

Thanks for reporting back. Yes that makes sense, I didn't think of brightness but then I'm a bit dim myself. (Is that the sort of thing that gets me 'Groans'.)

Good advice there to get a scan tool on it, also requires someone who can correctly interpret the results and carry forward the diagnostics (with and without scan tool). Do NOT just rely on raw error codes, and anyway codes may not be triggered even though there are faults. I know the modern fashion is for quick answers and solutions but sometimes they're not there or if they are they could be incomplete or wrong. Here it is. - https://tinyurl.com/yn6mmtyk

As I was outside looking up at the clutch pedal I remembered to look at that connector and I think I've found the 'missing' bit. You only need that grey bit that far out - but then you squeeze and hold it down whilst pulling the whole connector back.. I'll redo the photo if I can find the original again.