nta16

Go on then, get on with it! 😁 For me personally you can do whatever you like with your car (long as it's legal obviously) - but the advantage of older cars is their lack of too many unnecessarily complications - and as my wife's VWŠkoda 2015 Fabia Mk3, not counting the remote fob, only has and electric button for releasing the hatch door and the button part isn't currently working so the remote fob has to be used I wish it had fully mechanical over any electric. O/T warning But then I prefer a keyblade over a remote fob and manual wind up windows to electric windows, I'd have to strip out D.Fylaktos car a lot if I had it. 😁 And can I say how good you're looking in that photo.

Hi, welcome. If you are set on buying an Octavia estate then, in case you've not already seen, there are the various model years forums on this site where there will be knowledgeable and experienced owners of those models able to give you advice and knowledge, and, unless "fan-boys", real warts 'n' all information. - Škoda Octavia section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ Strange though it might sound looking at the 'Owner's Manuals' before test driving or considering buying a car can be very helpful, also very helpful through all stages of ownership to help avoid unnecessary visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. The manuals are available free as pdf downloads from the VWŠkoda owners manual website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Personally I would look at older models in good condition for the money but as you're in your mid-30s you may want the more up to date stuff in the car (and more to, and can, play up), also depends on your driving experience, if you have little then it's more likely that you may have dinks, bumps and accidents (hence the higher insurance premiums) and less real experience of driver maintenance and servicing maintenance of the car. The shorter trips will cause more wear on some systems, components and parts than the longer trips, hence a higher mileage car often possibly a better buy than a low mileage car. With German marques in particular, like VW, and more so with their stop/start I more so than usual suggest you check and have the 12v battery in a good state of charge and health and keep it that way. Sometimes/often just driving the car may not be sufficient for long term reliable use of the battery particularly as the stop/start system charges to only 80% so occasional as required recharges using an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions from the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for charger, are required. Otherwise the battery can get too low for the car's computer systems and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues, warnings and unseen error codes. This can happen even though the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before the engine has difficulty or wont start, the engine not starting often means the battery is very low indeed. Lots and lots of threads about this on Briskoda from those that don't know or realise about about this. Batteries can go low in summer as well as winter. A point of view you're very unlikely to encounter elsewhere on the site, personally I'd probably never buy a VW product (unless it was a something last century Golf Mk1 GTi) but instead buy an older better non-German marque, usually Japanese or possibly Korean if well looked after, even French. If you need general advice on first car purchase and initial running there are threads and posts in various models sections on Briskoda, whilst the detailed specifics may vary from model to model, though many share same VW engines, VW gearboxes and other stuff obviously, the basics remain the same regardless of marque, model and great extent year. Good luck with whatever you choose.

If that's so you have changed your tune from previously (the video you put up). You miss my point about your driving and attitude. In your post you put up a few red flags for me (and perhaps others) of your pre-incident driving, then perhaps just pre-incident but I don't know as I wasn't there, I was just going on your posts now and on all your previous posts, videos and attitude. Perhaps this near miss has woken you up a bit but not fully opened you up. It's boring for others to see the arguing as has been stated before and as you know from the past if anyone wants to argue I can continue - if you really want to learn what I mean, to no doubt argue against, dismiss or deny to me and yourself you can send me a direct/private message through this site, I'm not as blunt and as off-hand as your former mate here but I will let you know without feeling inferior to you or allowing you to make me feel inferior to you because you study engineering and I certainly wouldn't have at your age, but my wit and repartee has diminished since then. PM me if you but let it go on here. Cheers (as you have been in England you know calling someone "my friend" can be often viewed as condescending but I realise this is not the case in other lands).

Yes I was aware Gav3rdfabia was aware of the image and wated rid, in the Scala thread the image was speculated about even by other model owners, as with here my usual suggestion of referring to the 'Owner's Manual' sorts both. Unlike you and I some others don't like or want to look at such sources of information and despise such and scorn others for doing so, and suggesting so. The "virtual cockpit" (what a silly and inaccurate name/description) doesn't (thank gawd) in my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia so I do know of the 'joys' of relationships between infotainment screen, dot display and steering wheel knob-wheels. One of the good things about computers and their programs is that there can different methods and routes of achieving the same outcome, getting the display you want so once you can remember it you can pick the method and rote that suits you best. I understand that some car manufacturers have finally caught on that they don't need to have so many different touch virtual buttons for every obscure !"feature2 they can think of and some have even reintroduced real control knobs and buttons again instead - whatever will they (re)think of next - whatever their Chinese owners tell them I expect. 😁

Well done on finding the solution by experimenting but you could have saved yourself some time by reading the car's 'Owner's Manual'. I know the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manuals' aren't always great, particularly the newer the car, and it's not macho but reading the car's 'Owner's Manual' can at least help identify what that image is about. A Scala owner recently asked about the same image. VWŠkoda's site for 'Owner's Manuals'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models When I drive a neighbour's Corsa I sometimes catch the steering wheel stich wheels when reversing and each time have to remember how to get rid of the elapse time clock. Far, far too many (unnecessary) computer program "features" on modern cars for me.

@Thefeliciahacker I wasn't there so don't know what happened and am only going on what you report but you set yourself as being lucky which you was but you don't recognise that all your decisions and actions perhaps contribute to some extent to the near miss arising. Until you mature your attitude more you will not accept these things to yourself let alone others, perhaps it's your personality and you never will. I have sympathy for you being upset by this near miss but not your lack of wanting to learn from it and accept your part in it other than downplaying your inflated high opinion of your driving skills by saying you were lucky. Reread your post and see if you can see any signs whatsoever from it, I wasn't there and only going on what you have put. Now hiding behind engineering/statistical speak as distraction or camouflage doesn't work given you have already made your previous post. We are very unlikely to fully agree on this and as we will never meet in real life and extremely unlikely to be on the same parts of roads at the same time we can leave this as agreeing to disagree. You seem like a decent person generally so I always wish you good luck.

Entirely up to you of course but I think it would help you for you to honestly address what happened, and did not, happen and this will help you going forward and with any decisions you make. You was there and we were not but, as previously in a video, what you have written might suggest an economy with full acceptance. You are concentrating on a possible scenario that did not happen, the best outcome is that you learn from this experience. For a matter of your confidence too I suggest looking at getting further driver training and I say this as a driver that was never that good at driving, even after further training, but got a little better to previously. I wish you luck with whatever you decide.

If that is the case then get shot of them as soon as possible be realistic and in your mind write-off all value that way what ever you get for them will be a bonus. The longer you hold on to them the more you are throwing good money, and emotions, after bad, the sooner they go the more you will save of money and emotions and the more of the rest of your life will be free from the burdens. I had well over 30 years of running "classics" and the reward to expense demised rapidly and sped up the longer it went on. I wish I had only spent €3k in per year, on one car let alone 2. 😄 You have had the experience, sometimes pleasure, but that has passed so you need to move on sooner than later otherwise your two cars will get like many others that just sit in some sort of storage and unused but the owners refuse to pass them on to others that might enjoy them more and the cars just rust and deteriorate away to a state where no one wants them or beyond economic repair or restoration.

Fair enough. You didn't say what year the car is so I don't know which manual would apply but did put they are not always great and get worse the newer the car. Getting good detail guides with good visuals from people working on the same model with the same systems , components and parts I find very difficult, there are some excellent example about but the majority are not great or even very poor quality or at least partly wrong. But a good idea to ask here from actual owners and users of the model, baring in mind the number of variances there can be and this being a UK based site so non-UK cars can vary in ways unknown to many regular posters. Also bear in mind there are many other viewers to the thread that do not post but looking for information and for them many times consulting the car's 'Owner's Manual' may often be a very good basis for a solution - but as always each to there own. Sorry it wasn't meant to be a snarky comment just not well written, I was more concerned if there was an issue with the front bulbs, front bulbs could have meant more than just a broken (faulty, blown) light bulb and if you were changing to different types of bulbs this can bring issues which perhaps we could have warned or advised you about to avoid more issues. But as you are fully sorted now that is good. Again sorry about the poor wording (perhaps this is why I can get along more with the VWŠkoda car manuals).

Yeah window down a bit might confuse the ever demanding thick as computer system(s). Rather than referring to Dr Google when things aren't well best is prior to activity RTM (read the manual) for disconnecting and reconnect battery and any resets, it's not against any law to do so and contrary what what some seem to think won't affect your manliness. True the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' Is not always well written or explained and has errors and omissions but usually a good basis at least. I would be more concerned about the need, or is it a want, to change the front light bulbs.

Disconnecting the battery is fine, you are advised by VW to do it if the car isn't to be used for x-weeks to save the battery going flat, but it is best to read the car's 'Owner's Manual' first before doing so to confirm the procedure and what might be needed to be reset after battery reconnection. Usually if you have all the windows and sunroof are closed before disconnecting the battery then the only item that seems to need reset is the time of day clock. Did you have any of the windows down or partially down before you disconnected the battery? Do the reset procedure as per your car's 'Owner's Manual' and then as already suggested reset any menu options as required and report back. Good luck.

Hi, welcome Mark. If you've not already seen it on this site there's an Octavia section including a Mk3 and 'Guides' and 'Projects' forums. Good luck. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

You can go 0w-30 or 5w-30, or 0w-40 or 5w-40 but don't get too hung up on the figures (even the VW ones) a good oil is a good oil and that's what you want. Longlife is more of a marketing and sales term and description. In my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI (90PS, CJZC) I put 5w-30 but we're in the mild weather East Midlands/Anglian area not "the frozen north". I use Millers Oil's EE Performance (C3 5w-30) as they're a British blender (Brighouse, West Yorkshire) and you can ring them and talk to them and/or look at their website with "Which oil" oil finder, plus of course I have previously used their oils and found them to be good. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/ I can also recommend Mann oil filters. - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html Car oils always bring out lots of personal preferences and beliefs but if you follow VW's specifications and change the oil and filter when required you will cover normal use and expectations, whether you think VW will care about the engine lasting as long as possible and don't have commercial interests in oil manufacturers is up to you but that is not to say that those oils are not good oils just that you might be able to do a (little?) bit better depending on your car use and your expectations. Good luck with whatever you chose and do.

I think the German engineers and their German ways of specifications think differently to us in the UK so for us to try to interpret what they might be thinking or actual mean with the restricted information they give is very difficult and perilous, just be grateful they put the steering wheel on right for us and don't expect too many more concessions. The Japanese drive on the left like we do and like British stuff including when we used to make cars.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it among other sections and forums on this site is the 'Škoda Fabia' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ Good luck.

Don't worry about it it was just for VW statistics you can leave it as JCB - or if you want to change it then have a search for if VW had a code for Yuasa, someone somewhere on this site put a list of codes but this is all outdated legacy VW stuff (bit like some of the computer parts and programming on VW cars I think). By the fact that the serial number was entered at factory as ten ones (1111111111) shows the system was outdated even at that point of use, the Covid chip shortage highlighted how cheap and old (European) mainstream car manufacturers computer systems can be, probably why the old car manufacturers will disappear or just be a name badge when taken over or merged in with the new Chinese manufacturers.

Intermittent issues are often a right PITA to put up with and diagnosis. As put an internal leak won't show externally. The stop/start might just at the times in the car's drive activity cycle when the clutch (possibly hydraulics) becomes subjectable and/or actual. The issue will perhaps be more noticeable when driving slow in lower gear numbers, also you are probably doing more frequent gear changes then. Now you will know better when it starts to play up you can pump the pedal sooner to save you distress (but not annoyance). IIRC the clutch hydraulic is off(?) the brakes hydraulics, the clutch slave cylinder being another bit of wunderbar fantastic-plastic - and the gearbox is as old as the hills in design, it certainly feels a bit basic which it's always a bad thing, so getting the revs right for changes and double de-clutching may help and for the higher gear numbers. Do you notice any change in brake pedal feel at these times too?

I think you may be right that the pressures will, at least partly, be to do with stretching the miles-per-gallon. For decades the sizes of wheels and tyres has been about fashion, marketing and sales over practicality and need. Some are ridiculous sizes but that's fashion, and possibly machoism.

There have been more recent threads with owners needing parts, mainly non-UK, so you and they may have some luck. It's good that you have come to this decision if your enthusiasm has gone, there are so many many classic cars rusting away where the owners just won't let the car or its bits go on to serve a better purpose. Original parts are often so, so much better than modern made parts, that if you can get those parts too, and many old parts can be cleaned and lubricated, refurbished or reconditioned to last many more years of good use (unlike some modern made parts where it can be months, days, hours, minutes or crap straight out of the box or bag). You could also look at posting in the 'Marketplace' section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/37-marketplace/ Good luck.

If they're doing any work on the cars on the road like oil changes, using chemicals, not correctly disposing of waste products then going the (council?) environmental route may be more successful and perhaps quicker, Al Capone type of angle. Might also cover if the home can be used as this type of business but I don't know and the toerags will say it's unpaid work for family and friends then I think you will have to prove nuisance from this. Good luck.

This is the British motor trade (and other British companies and trades) for you and has been for many years. Marshalls is a brand of Constellation Automotive Group along with British Car Auctions, webuyanycar and Cinch. Nip over to Rockingham Speedway (and Entertainment Complex) to see a couple of the high-ups playground, well originally anyway, then reality set in and perhaps the Chinese cars really landed on our shores. https://www.constellationautomotive.com/our-brands Short termism (and greed) with short sightedness has reduced the trade so much over the years (and decades). I wonder, if Marshall is still around then, what Chinese brand(s) will be at the Bedford Road Marshall when the VWŠkoda contract is up or the brand or VW 'change' in the UK/Europe. I've feeling, don't know, that perhaps not enough 'mechanics/technicians' are around now or will be trained later to cover electric cars certainly for European (and American) brands of vehicles, ICE vehicles won't fair greatly either. Never mind, soon be Xmas. 😁

Hi, welcome.

Always plenty to fix or service, maintain on a VW product, whether you want or like to or not, an interest in computers also helps given German marques enjoying overcomplexity. If you have not already seen them Octavia specific forums for you - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ Skoda Octavia Guides forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/175-skoda-octavia-guides/ Octavia projects forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/ Good luck.

Dave, German engineering has been greatly overrated from the end of last century onwards, lots of Mk3 Fabia, at least, have noises from the underside, some owners have changed some parts with success whilst others change lots of parts over time at great expense and still have noise(s). My wife's 2015 Fabia has a very noticeable clunk/clonk from about 6 years old, that was after the two front dampers had to be changed (and one of the new ones was "misting" within 11 months (2-year warranty), still on the car now and still a MoT advisory. I (luckily) don't drive the car very often but last winter when it was very cold I couldn't believe how loud the noise was, and I'm used to 20-50 year old cars' suspensions, all better than the 9 year old VW product! As put you do need to check your suspension is in reasonable condition (for a VWŠkoda Fabia of the age) and of course safe. Drop links and other bushes are favourite to replace, dampers or springs assemblies are also possibilities, other causes of course (exhaust, other). My wife's car has been through 4 MoTs since the noise started, one with VWŠkoda Dealership, another with an independent and two with a decent old-fashioned garage (they don't work weekends, imagine trying to explain that to an under-50!) and I ask them to check the suspension for parts that need changing sooner rather than later, they don't use the same dampers that the VWŠkoda Dealership use as they so short-lived.

Probably just a coincidence, Fabia Mk3 wipers having a mind of their own is not unknown, I think the factory 'grease' was the cause in my wife's 2015 Fabia case. Have a look at the following, hope it helps. -