nta16

Hi, welcome. The load index number 94 or 98 is to do with how much weight each tyre is designed to carry, going up just means you have even more margin on the carrying weight for the tyre, despite VWs being heavy old wide busses everything will be well over allowed for in normal use. The numbers are indicators rather than actually telling you how the tyres will behave with those numbers because each different make and model of tyre made be designed and built differently using varying materials and compounds so one make and model of 215/55/R17 98W tyre despite having the same (nominal) numbers as another make and model of 215/55/R17 98W tyre could feel and handle differently on the car. Tyres made for your country may also vary to those made for UK. Usually the numbers are on the inside faces of the wheels, but if you trust the following websites and their information is correct you can confirm with other reliable sources of information (like what's on the inside face of the wheels but a PITA and back! farting about with the silly VW wheel bolts to find out. (7.5Jx17 ET41) - Wheel-Size.com (Superb 2024- 2.0 TDI (non 4x4) 148 hp, Europe) - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/2024/ Tyre load (and speed) rating - https://www.michelin.co.uk/auto/advice/tyre-basics/tyre-load-rating-speed-rating For what 2023/4 Superb owners use or recommend you could look in this forum or you might be best looking and/or asking in the relevant Superb model forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

The avi download doesn't open for me. Always allow that there could be two or more issues contributing to one or more problems, hopefully the issues might be related and solving one solves both (or more) but that can't always be relied on.

Try these Briskoda forums - 'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ HTH.

A lot more than half an hour, that might only be enough to get some of the computer systems asleep anyway. You are best to take a reading as many hours later as possible, then perhaps allow a 0.2v or 0.3v drop if the car's systems are running and not asleep. Yeah it will take more than one session to get to full with the battery so low it won't start the car (24+ hours with 4-amps) so just keep topping up as much as you can each day until full. It's as Warrior has put above. If it drops quickly from say the 12.54v then the battery might have been bu**ered up or you have a drain from something. The car's battery system doesn't want the battery at 100% - but that doesn't mean it can stop you fully recharging the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer which is a good idea occasionally (particularly as an occasional preventative measure). The main thing is if the battery can hold a good charge after a good load has been put on it. Let us know how you get on, you really want a printed battery health report from the seller, or a new battery 'coded in' for added reassurance and the chance to keep the new battery in good condition for a long reliable life.

No Phil and Mike set up Gt Oakley about the same time my mate and his business partner set up Potbelly. Frog Island kept very low key with Graham and Bruce, until they sold the brewery on. Phil moved the Great Oakley brewery to Tiffield and then later Guy took it over. Only Guy was interested in cars (not VWs).

Yeap, I saw that but wondered if the OP did. I wasn't doubting the information. More electronics to go wrong, how wonderful, add it to the ever growing list. 😄

Get out ! OUT !! 😄 Craft is just another word for fizzy. I had some 10% Canadian bottled stout one Xmas which was nice in the small quantity I had, imagine how much better it'd have been cask conditioned. But I won't hold this against you, each to their own. 😄 Before I was introduced to real ale I used to drink bottles of Carlsburp Special Brew, not many as I was only a lad so had no money, well I'm frum Nor'umptun we only had Manns and Courage pubs back then. And after 40+ years of brewery visits and tours and a mate owing a micro-brewery I still couldn't tell you the brewing process in any detail. Actually the only ale I've ever noticed three different flavours in was a 5% cask ale from Brewdog! at a CAMRA meeting at the Fox and Hounds (Althorp Coaching Inn) Great Brington, I think it was Punk IPA but it was too many years (decades) ago for me to remember exact details and I only had one as I was the driver that night. Great Oakley (formerly brewed at the bottom of Mike Evans garden in Great Oakley (village then, now part of Corby)) by Phil Greenway brewer and part owner with Mike, now brewed by Guy is still the best regularly brewed ale in Northants, and possibly anywhere else (you'd go for there Abbey Stout) their ales remain a pint and a half in a pint glass. Best ale if you can get it is Rockingham 5 or 6 barrels brewed less regularly, only to certain pubs and beer festivals. Evans Evans was a favourite of the four of us when we went to Wales, he was a "character" (as long as you didn't have to deal with him) lovely ale though. I'll have to stop, the fizzy and car enthusiasts and others will be bored with this real ale stuff, not that your can of King Void is of course, 😁 all the best, read the manual keep the battery from getting too low for the computers and you might be good for a while, cheers (glass of Adam's ale or Pitsford's).

@b0rger did you get a resolve to this or more information?

At great risk to myself I will engage with more thread drift 😆 - yeap know Mike and the Malt, was in CAMRA from 1979, now greater quantity and lower quality in pubs though Northants has some of the very best micro-brewery beers I've had in my decades of travel (including "The Classic Basic Unspoilt pubs of Great Britain" lists 2001 and going back). Malt was took over by the bloke that has the Merchant's Inn, Rugby group, last time I went in a good few years back the Manager there wasn't much cop. On-topic, to cool fevered brows - an old "service" and "maintenance schedule" below, the leasing company should have done all that's on this list at least (VWŠkoda "services" and "maintenance schedules are scant enough as it is), whether they did or not is another matter the information could still be added to the digital database, as independents can do (unless they balls-up the entry like PJ Hodge, Far Cotton). And possibly a slightly newer(?) list of wot yer get.

... when the Dealerships were back-street friendly and helpful garages, not corporate VW places, they were grateful for your custom, UK Škoda owners at the time will know why too. I know roughly where you are now but it's on too bigger and busy road really for the 10 years we toured Wales until a few years ago in my one and only daily drive car, a 1973 MG Midget which was excellent for the white roads on our paper printed atlases and even back then the roads your way were getting lower speed limits on them. Less CAMRA GBG real ale pubs out that way too. 😁

Actually the error was probably with the fiddling original car owning Dealership in Leicester, who'd have thought it about Leicester.😄 Bedford Rd lot were called Progress then and last we went there called Marshall, probably same owners at the very top of the list of company names. I'm from before VW took over Škoda . . .

Hi welcome. I will ask a Moderator to move your thread to the Superb Mk3 forum as the owners there might better know any Recall or other codes for your model. Recall 47U5 relates to a brakes matter. If you want to see if your car has outstanding Recalls (you'd hope not) you can check on this site. - Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Very important, potentially save you time hassle and money with unnecessary visits to Dealerships/garages/mechanics/auto-electricians if you read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' (and you could then know more than some long term owners). - VWŠkoda site for free pdf downloads of 'Owner's Manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Service records are digital but a Dealership can paper print off "individual record" for individual (what passes for now as a) "service" or "maintenance", "inspection", "Recall", etc.. But you'd be best with a "Complete record" covering all that has been put on the system. This is still not as good or anywhere near as detailed as the paper bills. You could also contact VWŠkoda UK and get a "Service History Certificate" from personal experience I can tell you these and other digital records can contain errors, even from what's on the "Complete record" and "individual record" how this is possible VWŠkoda UK were unable to establish when asked to investigate and explain. I'm sure you know never to fully trust computers, the car is full of computer bits. A word of advice is to always keep your 12v battery in a reasonable state of charge, the stop/start not activating when it should is the first sign of low state of charge which the computer system won't like and will make you suffer if you ignore this and don't sufficiently charge the battery with good enough driving or recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer instructions. I advocate very occasional preventative recharging to full using an appropriate battery charger maintainer (good ones cost as little as £15) unless you don't mind premature (or very premature) (expensive) battery replacement and 'coding' and possible all sorts of unexpected issues with the car, the site has loads of threads on this.

Hi welcome. You might be better off starting a new thread and give full details of your car and the exact issue you have. I can see you have put details of your car as "2016 fabia mk3 1.2tsi" in your profile appearing as such in the 'Author stats' (down arrow 'v' top right corner of your post) but other might not see that or look if they can. The type of gearbox and number f gears can be useful to know as well as your engine code and trim level, you can see mine as an example. With an issue like this first though might be the ignition switch failing. HTH.

For whatever reason I missed the date - however, as it's less than 3 weeks ago gumdrop may not yet have got to a Dealership appointment or even perhaps other professionals and might still be able to save the time and bother of such and my post was an answer to his prayers, as I've often (not) been described as. Also of course gumdrop, offthewall, me and you (or you and I) may not be the only viewers to this thread and may have taken the idea that it's bad to DIY disconnect/reconnect the 12v battery, and for this and other reasons, I offered an alternative view backed by the "Simply Clever" (really?) VWŠkoda's official publication.

Disconnecting the 12V battery should do no harm whatsoever, if done correctly of course, following the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual'. The computers get their panties in a twist and doing the old "switch-it-off 'n' on-agen" by in this case disconnecting the battery my clear this and other unseen computer brain-farts. There's no certainties but it's a very easy, no expense thing to try if you've not got a scan tool and turning the ignition off 'n' on agen serval times and just driving the car hasn't worked. Aren't computers marvellous. 😄 An example from the latest Fabia 'Owners Manual' (July 2025!) - under "12v battery" - "Self-help" - HTH.

Yeap that'd be great for comparing surface area(?) (why put S.A.) but you're not just comparing rad surface area, or rads, in isolation, these are different rads in different cars. As an engineer don't you want to test and confirm your theory with actual real world measurements, those without engineering qualifications manage this. S.A. could also stand for smart arse, those that act as a smart arse sometimes end up with an arse that smarts from it being dusted with a toecap, all figurative meanings of course but bear it in mind if you ever go on real world sites. I'm sure you know from your previous experience if you carry on like that in the UK you'd have the urine extracted from you left, right and centre. I'm not saying you're wrong, I don't know, I'm just saying prove it rather than what you are saying which is you're right because you're right. You asked for opinions of your approach, more valid and valued opinions to you than mine I know, but my opinion on your approach is that it's flawed. Everyone is welcome to my opinion (whether they want it or not). 😁 I'll bow out and leave the thread to yourself and others now.

If the recharging isn't left on long enough then it may take two or more sessions to get the battery back to "full", low amps for long and slow charging is generally better than high amps for quicker recharging on a truly flat battery. After this you shouldn't need to charge it every night that unless the battery is weak and/or you're using a lot of electricity when the car is driven and/or parked up. Do follow the instructions for battery charging in the 'Owner's Manual' to ensure the car's computer knows what's going on. If you are using your charger maintainer every night as a maintainer until you are sure of the car and the battery to reassure your wife and yourself that's a different matter and understandable. Have you added anything electrical to the car since you bought it, a camera say or 12v socket extended with anything plugged into it?

I know you won't value or like it but here it is! You could be right, partial right or wrong or partially wrong - unless you know otherwise you have made a lot of assumptions and not provided actual figures or conformations. Rather than theory figures and calculations do you have any real world test figures. Are the FIAT and VW rads made by the same supplier to same or similar build, are the fin stacks same dimensions, internal tubing the same, tanks and bottoms, capacities, inlet and outlet sizes, etc.. You say the VW rad is thicker. Get some metering equipment on the car and measure at different points to the rad in different driving conditions, repeat test to same conditions to confirm readings. Theory is fantastic until it meets the real world, as Mike Tyson put it on being told an opponent had a plan to beat him “Everybody has plans until they get hit for the first time”.

Very common to have lots of unexpected warning messages and (unseen) error codes when the battery gets too low for the car's computer systems and this is when the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before the engine won't start. The battery has to be very low before you get any difficulty starting the engine let alone before it can't start the engine. Usually the first sign the battery is too low for the car's computers is when the stop/start doesn't work when it should, at that point the battery needs charging and sometimes just driving the car isn't enough and fully recharging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger. A long low (amps) recharge is best. The 12.8v can be when the battery has just been charged and drops given a little time and as has been put drops, possibly a lot, given load. If you only got the car three weeks ago there are three possibilities I can think of - the battery was/is old and worn and should have been replaced (but car 12v batteries are the most oversold car part and very often prematurely replaced rather than properly fully recharged the battery was low and not recharged by the seller before you took the car (possibly car not used whilst on sale) your use of the car and electrical systems in the car has taken the battery to a low state of charge there is a constant drain the battery from a fault or perhaps(?) something you have added to the car(?). The car battery likes 20c weather temperature and self-discharges at twice the rate at 30c and twice again at 40c - and of course during hot weather you use the air-con a lot more and the air-con (and steering) use a lot of electric. If it wasn't for the fact you have booked the car I would have suggested deleting all error codes straight away, though they should resolve themselves if the battery is in a good state of charge and/or with use of the car. You have learnt how important it is to keep the car's 12v battery in a reasonable state of charge to avoid upsetting the car's computer systems, many/most/(?)all of these error codes may have been present well before the engine wouldn't start so bear that in mind if the stop/start doesn't work when it should or you get low battery or other warnings. HTH. Let us know how you get on.

I can't see a marginal overfill causing splutter and shake but I'm curious about the 2/3, if you mean 2/3 between 'Min' and 'Max' because the car wasn't parked level so 200 ml was added then that's fair enough. On your once a month Italian tune-up Alp runs the fill up before the run try Shell V-Power and next fill up, you really want a couple of full tankfuls to get anywhere, I suggest this also for "service" and/or MoT times too. The VWSkoda "services" and "maintenance schedules" are as I put a minimum and over here at least, to my experience, getting a Dealership to do more than minimum is difficult they don't even stick to the schedules without being reminded or asked for the work, here we have part fitters, few would be allowed to do proper full diagnosis even if they could and wanted to, other than say there are no error codes showing. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

It is about the same mileage as my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI 90. Things that sprang to my mind were sensors (error codes are not the be-all and end-all as you have found) the computer systems will compensate for some rough running (they would have to with a VW 4-pot) and margins and parameters can be wide for error and warning reporting. I favour sensor(s) but obviously given all the limitations that's an early over the internet guess. The cold start behaviour was also in my mind hence the thought of sensor(s) and VW computer systems compensations. Yes my thoughts go to past servicing and maintenance history, the VW servicing and maintenance work are a bit scant and often minimum standards for what might be required, if the plugs have been done, has the engine air filter also been changed and air box and hoses cleaned inside? Also current and past use of the vehicle (lots of short journeys clogging the engine insides up. Have the service and maintenance work been done properly previously (and correct plugs fitted). Possibly live data at one of these cold starts might be needed to see what the sensors might be reporting at the time. Another thought might be fuel quality or age recently put in or been sitting in the tank a good while but I've no idea of the petrol type or quality or age where you are (we get changes for (cold) winter). Do the very dumb computers register where you are and ambient conditions, or perhaps the sensors re telling them another story. As the issue is just at start up (does sound worse than the usual VW roughness and occasional rougher) so I would do a couple of tank refills of something like Shell V-Power and at same time some Italian tune-up runs once the engine oil has fully warmed (90+c on the oil temperature gauge), high speeds are not required just sustained higher revs over reasonable distances and time out of city or stop/start traffic or runs.

From quick online search of OCU - ? "What is the OCU(Online Connectivity Unit) The OCU stands for Online Connectivity Unit It's a telematics device that LGE is developing for the Volkswagen vehicles It is a small box installed deep inside passenger cars, and in charge of wireless communications in. GSM, WCDMA and LTE network It provides voice and data call functions and various online services requested by VW" ?

Hi, welcome. Sorry I don't know the (over complicated) VW system and your attachment doesn't download for me so total generalisations which you might already know. If you have fitted any new (modern made) parts recent then check the parts and their installation as many modern made parts can be very poor quality and if the part was replaced was copied from what was fitted and the way it was fitted one or both could be wrong or not fully working. ETA: live suppliers are check but also checking the the earths are often about Wires and connections - "If the gauge increases in resistance from Empty to Full, such as 0 to 90, 0 to 30, or 16 to 158, and assuming that the gauge is properly matched to the sender then read on. The most common cause of this type of gauge to read over full is typically due to no ground at the sender, an open circuit, or break in the wire going from the gauge to the sender." - https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/why-does-my-fuel-level-gauge-always-read-past-full/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. Sorry but the question might be quick but my answer isn't. If you want quick only go to very bottom of this post. Do you have a back up battery - and what is a back up battery, does the car have two 12v batteries or does it mean the alarm battery? (or other, see below) First thing I would do if the car only has one 12v battery (or even if not) is to fully recharge it with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the charger maintainer. I would use a lower (slower) amp charger maintainer so it may may take very many hours to recharge the battery to full but this can be done in one or two or more sessions if there are time restrictions. If you only have the one 12v battery - if the battery is allowed to go too low in state of charge the computers don't like it and can throw up all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and error codes and car issues. The battery may be good enough to have the headlights seem bright enough and easily start the engine but still be too low for the computers. The first signs of low state of charge for the battery is the stop/start not operating when it should and just driving the car to charge the battery sometimes is not enough to charge it enough. 12v batteries like 20c weather temperature and self-discharge twice as much at 30c (and twice as much again at 40c). In hot weather the air-con is used more, the air-con uses a lot of electricity (as does steering). The 12v car battery is one of the most oversold car parts with premature change when often proper full recharging would have been sufficient for at least some more reliable battery life, possibly much more. This code, I don't know might also relate to the alarm battery(?) but again I don't know and it's hot (warm to some) at the moment. What scanner are you using, is it programmed for your model and (part) year or VIN, was the program check to be fully up to date before use, was the car's 12v battery at a reasonable state of charge (and if appropriate same for scanner)? Google search brought up the following that look like a back up battery for something not all car electronics are the finest so I would still consider the heat as a possible factor, at one time VW fitted engine starter relays that didn't like the cold. - https://www.google.com/search?q=VW+B1916F4&rlz=1C1VDKB_en-GBGB1100GB1103&oq=VW+B1916F4&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOdIBCTgzMDJqMGoxNagCA7ACAQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 HTH.

I can't prove this wasn't the case but I very much doubt it as the the long life coolant unfortunately for me was changed or refreshed frequently at fractions of its expected life service and I'm quite thorough with initial coolant changes - flush, clean, flush/back-flush/flush of heater matrix, rad and some hoses and pipes out of car, engine block in situ. As it's devil for weep-leaking the stat housing and stat (both have bypasses) may stay on the cylinder head (same to for heater tap). If you notice the early signs of HGF that's very good as I've always only noticed with the benefit of hindsight on my own cars ( possibly just mentally avoiding yet another car problem with the many, many, many, kindly given to me by people in the English motor trade and parts quality from China and English specialists. My wife is much better at spotting and identifying problems than me , she remembers them from previously, I think I must shut out such memories for the sake of retaining some sanity. 🙃