nta16

For quoting from previous posts, if you want to, you can highlight the section you want then you should see just below the end of the section a black box with open quotation marks and the text quote selection which if you click-on (touch?) that black box then puts it as a quote into the post you are writing.

Which may suggest there is a problem with the flap control (computer) or just mechanical restriction - this may not be the only issues at play though, but not helping the situation. Sorry my mistake I meant air-con refrigerant rather than engine coolant (perhaps you did too and have already checked for refrigerant leaks). The dial are designed that way to give reassurance to drivers, the dials are bias to show 90 even though in reality the actual temperature could be a reasonable margin either side of 90 and moving up and down from 90 but the upper margin will be well within normal range of coolant temperature. Obviously you want the coolant temperature to remain around the normal operating temperatures as much and often as possible but you can run up to the red section on the gauge just not a great idea as it leaves less margin to full overheating but there will be bells and whistles and restriction before this point unless there's a real big failure on something somewhere. Andrew as you're not the usual stereotype of an engineer (just been posting with a young version) and willing to listen to others that aren't engineers (well I'm not anyway) I'll be a bit more direct with you. I put about batteries and had in mind remote batteries (I see I've already put about never having a "spare" key) based on your code but I have no idea how good or accurate your Autophix is. All scan tools have strengths and weaknesses and you are using their sets of computer programs in conjunction with VW's very complex, very intertwined computer programs and as you know the engineers in both of these will have some errors. omissions and compromises, then you add in the external electronics, electrics, mechanical. This means things are not always black and white, the scan tool reporting has to be confirmed, checked, cross referenced. In other words the computer ain't always right and when it is then mostly it is just a signpost to the direction of travel for further diagnosis using other diagnostics tools including your human senses. With any car problems particularly modern complex ones like the German marques have made for many decades you need to consider the problem may be caused or affected by more than one issue and solving one problem may not solve all. If you research you will find things like a car's computer systems thinking there might be a fault with a brake light causing other unexpected problems like putting the car into limp mode and even more less relatable issues. One electric/electronic issues can back feed and scatter to other areas of the car where the systems there can throw wobbles, it's Y2K panic again, low 12V battery state of charge can throw up all sorts of unexpected VW warnings, error codes and issues, the headlights might seem bright enough and engine easily start but the car's computer systems won't be happy. There are loads of threads and posts with this in the various forums about this (yet some still find it difficult to accept and make the situation worse by not recharging the 12v battery). This is why I personally (not an engineer in computers or anything else, or expert in anything) prefer that a report of all error codes is taken and recorded but then all error codes are deleted. If you were to put different scan tools on your car they may give different readings and your car may report different error codes at different times using different scan tools or the same scan tool every time - it's a hypochondriacs nightmare (or dream) scenario. 😄 Don't put all your faith in (so-called) "smart" devices or computers generally, as you probably know they're not at all smart but extremely, extremely dumb, even AI always confirm, double/treble check and cross reference the information they give - and any information from any source including blokes off the internet and even manufacturers databases (good engineering practice I believe, though hard to imagine with some of the stereotypical engineers I know, meet and dealt/deal with). There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other scanners that offer help (reports, clear codes and more) mostly non-professional, it might be useful to get a second scanner to confirm your Autophix** also VW specific with access to more data to get a better overall picture plus perhaps live data. See the following link for those in your area who may be able to help if you want. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 ** I see Autophix 7610 is VW specific (USA lead possibly by the I/M).

🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 Wow! Pot - kettle situation. From the person that dictates all car parts must be from original engineering design and build company. We would all like to stick only to the regulations that we like and ignore those we don't but that attitude enacted makes outlaws, we have enough of those already. People fiddling with their phone can cause very serious accidents. I have seen car phones being used whilst driving causing distraction from driving longer than you have been alive.

I'll put in a Report (three dots top right of post(s), drop down menu) asking for a Moderator to move it for you. ETA: done - tick Potentially all codes might be relevant and some or all can be unexpectedly related. Error codes can be from low state of battery charge (car, scanner), disconnection/change of battery, change of car part(s), 'coding' programming errors or incidents, computer brain-farts car or scanner programs, perhaps low battery in proximity remote(s) (never have a "spare" key have all keys used in some sort of alternate rotation use). See my answer above and look up B104A00 on the web again bearing in mind my answer above. The hot air isn't coming in from outside but that means you are also not getting fresh air in the car just recirculating what's there which is OK for short periods but not longer periods, probably has something about this in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Have you have the coolant level checked to see if it's low, possible leak, might be lack of maintenance but some get away with that longer than others or a faulty or break somewhere. Good luck.

As you have no responses here yet you could try looking and/or asking in the 'Fabia Projects' forum and 'Styling and Car Care' forum. HTH. 'Fabia Projects' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Styling and Car Care' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/

I'm not a nervous passenger but I'd never let the driver take photos, I don't even like hands-free phones in cars! Your coolant temperature stability sounds very good (even allowing for modern coolant gauges) and your MPG (kms/litre) seems excellent and you've not complained about lack or drop in engine power so as you say you've probably got it about as good as it ever could be and better than when the car was new (shows better modern materials perhaps). Well done - keep both hands on the steering wheel! - your wife might give you ear ache from "verbals" I would now use a more direct approach. 😄

Hi, welcome. Shomaz has already suggested the first thing I'd suggest with one of those Climatronic type heaters, next would be to put a VW appropriate scan tool on. To avoid spurious reports this needs a fully up to date program on it suitable to your model and (part) year (or VIN), the battery for the scan tool (if appropriate) and car's 12v battery in good state(s) of charge. This is the 'Hellos and Goodbyes' section so less traffic here and not specific to model so you would be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Skoda Kodiaq MK1 (2017-2023)' for information and advice from the model owners and others. HTH. 'Skoda Kodiaq MK1 (2017-2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/339-skoda-kodiaq-mk1-2017-2023/

I'm lost with that too Lee. 😄 Be interesting to see what you mean and if that's what Toggy37 means. I did not the speedo is mph. The digital speedo is additive and I must admit I now find reading the analogue takes me a fraction longer but it is more relaxing. In my wife's ca the digital and analogue speedos seem to be set to read 2mph higher than all the speed signs say (and phones IIRC, not tried with a TwatNav). Years back I had a car you could switch the digital speed figures KPH readings and I done that whilst in France and for me it was a waste of time as I was then calculating the KPH figures back to MPH so I knew how fast I was going. 😄 I got a fright one time when I saw I was doing 110 and then realised it was only KPH.

After an optimum very generally often with better fuel economy you have less power, all within ranges and relevancies of course. Be interesting to see what effect on fuel economy and engine power (though you don't have a gauge measing that) that long steep climbs make and when the ambient temperature is hot plus at higher attitudes. I don't know how well controlled the cooling is on the Felicias overall (in good condition / when new / altered) but it must be at least reasonable if not more so as you chaps have kept the cars so long and in hotter climates.

My wife's 2015 Fabia has "Version 1" of the instrument cluster so I don't know much about the "Version 2" in your car. I doubt it but wonder If a previous owner has been messing with things in the computer programs or swapped steering wheel or column switch. Sorry but I'm not sure what I'm missing with the need for digital display of car road speed ("current speed"), if your daughter is taking her driving test then she should be able to use the big analogue dial with needle (like we all used to for our driving tests), have they changed this now). Looks like buttons on wiper stalk set the display according to the Owner's Manual but it's not as clear as it could be for the two versions. Hope you get sorted, your daughter may have well passed her test before you can get the car into a Dealership but hopefully someone there might just be able to help you without the need of seeing the car. Good luck. Let us know how you get on.

You might be better asking OBDeleven (if that's what you are using) or OBDeleven users, it seems, I don't know, sometimes what's supposed to be 'coded' doesn't, the manufacturer has blogs and a Users forum or there's a 'VCDS & Diagnostics' forum on this site with some OBDeleven threads, posts and information. I know you had it before and it's annoying you can't get it back but on my wife's 2015 Fabia the ABS system is very tardy at reporting an issue with tyre pressure, perhaps if you have a pressure loss to the rear it might advise the driver if they've not already noticed. An inexpensive, or more expensive if you like, tyre pressure gauge, and usual driver's maintenance (separate and different to VW "maintenance schedule" work) will be better than the Fabia system (on my wife's car anyway which was factory set with factory wheels and tyre size).

Hi, welcome. Sorry I don't understand what you want. (do you mean digital speed display) otherwise you can also use the needle dual but whatever it is you want both yourself and daughter can get a lot of information about the car and save yourselves time hassle and money by reading and referring to the car's 'Owner's Manual. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free VWŠkoda pdf download from the VWŠkoda Owner's Manual website. IF you mean something else and/or can't find what you want in the Owner's manual please post again and I and others will try to help you with an answer. HTH. VWŠkoda Owner's manuals site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Very much doubt it but you could look at the petrol cap seal and make sure the petrol filler area is clean and clear. I've had as brand new (from factory) metal fuel filter leak from crimp you'd hope and expect a two year old fuel filter to be fine but when looking for stray stuff like this it's best to be thorough and systematic, of course Sod's Law if you start at petrol tank end the leak will be at the engine and if you start at the engine ... . Driving along when the engine's not long from first start, when cold or warmed or fully warmed? So exhaust tailpipe end isn't black (or blacker than usual)? That leaves the rest to check from previous posts.

If the battery was at 12..8V (depending on the accuracy of your measuring device) then it ain't going to take long to get to 100% then (even with a 2, 2, 4-amp charger) - and yes as i put earlier - there's a blind echo and a parrot in the thread. 🙂 With the ELM327 it might depend on what it's teamed up with but I think you can code stuff but you'd have to ask users if they've done it successfully.

So just to confirm you have a 1.6 petrol multi-point injection engine? Are you sure it's a fuel smell (presumably petrol(?)? The smell is only now and then but when is it that you get the smell, after a refuel, at empty fuel tank, half-full or full fuel tank., when you first start the engine, or shut it off or between, hot weather or any weather, and so on and on . . . more information is needed please, only you are there when it happens. If you smell it in the cabin more likely it might be from the engine bay but not necessarily, how does the fuel line run. When you next smell it you need to use your nose and eyes and check the pick up from front to back or back to front, as said all hose connections and hoses, fuel rail is fully secure. Check the exhaust tailpipe end for discolouring, perhaps smell with engine running (from a sensible distance). Things to check, fuel filler cap, around the tank, fuel pump, fuel line, engine bay. Do you carry a spare fuel can, check that. That's me out of ideas. If you put more details in your profile for display in the 'Author stat' section of engine and gearbox, it'd save assumptions and remembering, lots of pick-up vary from factory standard now. Good luck.

That has got a 2016 Fabia battery too low to get to that stage. First warning of low battery is when the stop/start isn't active when it should if you then drive the car sufficiently enough to put in more charge than you take out by the driving it should recover sufficiently But often just driving the car isn't enough to fully recover the battery for longer reliable battery life particularly if you use stop/start a lot, short journeys and/or heavy electric use, plus the VW system only want to go to about 80% charge to allow for retentive charging. Then you would be best to use an appropriate battery recharger maintainer for as low (amps) and long and possible to get to 100% recharge even if it takes two or three sessions. The very occasional preventative recharge with a appropriate battery charger maintainer would be even better and help the battery last longer. By the time you get to the radio having to turn itself off again just driving might not be enough to fully recover the battery. The very last thing to go is the engine starting by this time the battery is very low indeed probably not just low in state of charge but also low in state of health and possibly useable reliable life. Going from 70 Ah to 72 Ah is near enough not to worry until AG Falco can 'code' it. Bosch batteries I was told were/are(?) Varta batteries with a Bosch label (like other Bosch items). You're (we're) supposed to have additional insulation for the AGM battery in the engine bay heat but the AGM battery in my wife's 2015 Fabia didn't even have the top cover for the original EFB so the AGM is well under protected but so far it doesn't seem to have mattered, or that it didn't get coded straight away, but it's only been 4 years so far so perhaps I'll find out more later. All the best.

Up to you but I always fully charge the new battery after it arrives to 100% charge with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, it should take too long with a brand new battery. An AGM with potential at new of 12.7/8v can be delivered at 12.4v which is fine but I prefer to with a known fully charged battery. The VW stop/start computer program will soon have it at 80% to allow room for regenerative charging but it does the battery good to be recharged to 100% occasionally, as helpful prevention from getting too low too often and shortening its useful life. If you're going from EFB to AGM and a change in Ah then you want the new battery 'coded in' sooner rather than later but not ultra urgent panic situation. I'm sure AG Falco will at the same time clear any error codes that might have come up from if the last battery got too low and any other error codes deleted you want, good to have electronics/programs as clean and clear as possible. I remember when the Ringwood brewery opened and before you know it's 25 years old then it's sold and just another brand and label with the Marsrton's name and on with our local mega-kegary Carlsburp, time can be so cruel.

Have you tried copy and paste all the text to a new opened MS Word document then saving that document (as a MS Word)? You could look at the Properties of the xml and see if there are any restrictions and if they are untick them. I know nothing about computers and always try right-click first - but if you're on one of those Apple things I've no idea about them other than thoughts of a mobile device repair kit (2lb lump hammer and 6" nail). 😁

Even with your new AGM battery don't let it get to the point of complaining, you can greatly extended the useful life of the battery by recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer very occasionally for preventative recharges. Plenty of threads and posts on Briskoda and this forum with information on this, I know as I've put plenty of them on here. It is very straightforward but it has to be done correctly with careful data entry (which is beyond some aid professionals) but you'll be in good hands with AG Falco as he has higher standards.

How very dare you! 😄 It's my wife's car, I have never owned a VW. I'd not doubt that in many (most) ways an older car is superior to most recent cars. However note the 34C at my seated upper legs, how much of that heat is about solar gain through the extensive modern car glazing and how much my wife's preference of ventilation air-con settings I don't know I was cold enough with the settings I had - but the driver is in charge of all settings unless my wife isn't the driver, then we compromised and I agree with what I'm told.

That doesn't necessarily mean the OP has been given correct information by the insurer/broker but yes it'll probably be on their file. Human or AI the answer given might be incorrect but of course they have the upper hand which is why you never want to go with a cheap insurer/policy if you ever need to make a claim. But yes, that's how it is in 2025 and many years back, progress isn't always advancement.

@Scorpiodan unexpectedly today I got to drive my wife's Fabia 2015 and I took the wall thermometer we've had on the hall wall for about 30+ years, it not laboratory standards and annually certificated but seems about right. On two tests, VWŠkoda dash sez outside temperature is 27C (usually about 2C above real world after it has settled from it's initial widely high reading, just imagine if other the other VW computer systems relied oh this, oh dear, they do(?)) with air-con on, to dash face vents, blower on speed two, thermometer resting directly against central vents and thermometer reads 7C. Real world, not VW sensor, say its 25C, so a drop of 18C with thermometer resting directly against central vents. On the return journey my wife driving I in the front passenger seat holding the thermometer just above the top front edge of the middle of the seat, sun shining in, thermometer shows 34C, part of the journey my wife had the HAVC to her own settings as we're individuals with different idea and mine being for the most part wrong after 48 years. Bear in mine, thank gawd, we don't have Climotronic or wotever it is, and a 2015 model not 2024 (perish the idea).. Make of this information as you will or like. No report tomorrow as this is it.

The D of 6U2721335D doesn't tie in with Papez RHD 6U2721335A/E/G - the D still maybe for RHD I've no idea it's just about double-checking and cross-referencing aftermarket parts manufacturers and suppliers databases. I've previously found with parts for my old cars that when databases are merged errors and omissions are not only merged but more errors and omissions from the merging. As was put in the earlier days of eBay UK one supplier would just copy off another and so the inaccuracies grew, things are much better now but even car parts (and car manufacturers) databases had errors and omissions so nothing is perfect. Often or usually things thing don't matter much until such as now you can't source the part or you are at the point of fitting the wrong part or have fitted it without knowing until something plays up again later. A parts manufacturer using the wrong material for an O-ring seal (2 in 20, units over 20 years error) can mean engine and/or gearbox out, again, guess how I know.

Well done on finding it and sorting it. Thanks for reporting back. These computer, electronic and electric systems are fragile and with the computer side particularly if one's upset or has an issues that can track to unexpected others. This is often difficult to explain to others and for them to accept it but it's seen often by those that do repairs. I watched a video today from a car technician where he said he was surprised that other technician and garages don't have battery jump leads and how he uses them for diagnosis, if he suspects a possible bad or poor earth he would connect one or two battery jumper leads from the battery negative terminal clamp to chassis and/or engine even before getting the scan tool out and if electrics improved and no error codes he knew which side of electrics to start on - so many concentrate on the power supplies they forget the other side. Anyone who's had to do any electrics on old cars or fibreglass bodied cars knows the importance of earths and it's a basic that's no different with the latest cars, in fact more so given all the electrics and electronic and how flimsy the wiring is. He said a mate had an issue with earthing just because one spot weld had gone on a modern car and an additional earth supply was need from that spot weld back. I forget the details about the injectors but if they needed coding then you can't argue with the computers as they control everything. Good luck.

You must consider that Europe (vast majority) drive on the right hand side other than UK it means if you buy a RHD car it is generally a modified altered vehicle and there can be lots of changes needed to do this, some unexpected and some that aren't the best solution, cars are full of compromises, especially mass market(s) models. Japanese cars are RHD. 😁 Yeap you've seen examples in this thread alone about checking things and not trusting some bloke on the internet. The likes of Papez would most likely know about this, it might be possible or it might be that the cable lengths vary, or different fitting arrangements on the different cables making a simple cable swap not possible or practical. Those that build up project or modified vehicles may have made up their own mechanisms but often these people have more knowledge, skills and experience and sometimes with more access to materials, tools and machines and know similar others. Another thing I used to advice was unless you had to then not to start a or do a job when the shops wouldn't be open to supply more parts, materials, tools, etc.. but modern thinking is that Amazon or others will get it to you but my thoughts are at the shop you can check the items are correct and perhaps get the correct one or suitable alternative there and then (btw Amazon aren't always lowest price anyway).