nta16

If you inspect the front bumper and grille area more you might find more signs, or you might not, obviously you want the sensor fitted with everything in as much alignment as required before calibration as the system acts like a nervous passenger at the best of working, only this passenger doesn't just scream it can jump on the brake (I forget if it pulls the steering wheel too, I've no idea if it ties into lane "assist" either if that fitted to the car. My wife's 2015 (without lane "assist", thankfully to me) throws up alarm in some normal driving conditions, I don't think I've got it as far as braking but my wife told me once it put up a message it was inactive but when she started the car for return journey the doom had gone and another time whilst she was driving slowly in town sudden braking for no apparent reason, very light traffic in distance, then she noticed an empty bag blowing down the road, whether it was that who knows. So don't worry if after fixing and calibration you get the odd unnecessary false alarm from the front "assist". It'd be very useful and informative if you can let us know how you get on and what's actually needed for the repair and recalibration, there are video and info about but they can be general and you never know how accurate the info is or relates to your particular circumstances and model and year. Good luck.

Sod's Law will always apply, today - Error code probably applies to MS11 but I've not really bothered to find out, might be the Chinese or Russian governments, I don't think it'd be the American government if it requires much competence. 😁 I'm joking, I'm sure their agencies mess about with these things all the time. 😁

To summarise, you have a [ ETA: March ] 2021 Rapid NA (India), saloon, with 1.0 TSI, 81kW / 110PS, DSHA, turbocharged engine and want to know which VW specification engine you should use. You need to put in the correct specification fluids for your particular engine and year of engine for your country. If you don't trust the Dealers then contact VWŠkoda for your country or region and check with them. What does your Owner's Manual for the car say about oil specification for your engine? Engine oil isn't just about the numbers and fuel economy it is also about protecting the engine through all the varying conditions it will be under with use, allowance must also be made for the area/region of driving and weather conditions. "VW 508.00/509.00 This specification combo (508.00 for petrol, 509.00 for diesel) requires a 0W20 viscosity, fuel economy oil with long life additives. These specifications are NOT backward compatible with the eariler VW specifications. Recommended for the new 2.0 TFSI 140 kW and 3.0 TDI CR 160 kW VW/Audi engines." "VW 502.00 Oil for gasoline engines. Successor of VW 501.01 and VW 500.00 specification. Recommended for those which are subject to arduous conditions. It must not be used for any engines with variable service intervals or any which are referred to under other specifications." - https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php ŠKODA Genuine Engine Oils Volkswagen Group Standards -https://www.skoda-auto.com/other/oils-standards VW engines are not cutting edge car engine designs, all car internal combustion engines are basically ancient technology with some refinements of build and materials and lots and lots of computer hard and software thrown at and on them to try to get yet again and again an nth degree more out of the engine's ancientness often to play around with fuel economy and emissions figures for governments and car buyers. Luckily the engine oils are advanced enough now to help with these aims and still protect the engines, unless the car/engine manufacturer's engineers make mistakes or have to make too many compromises with the design and build. That does not necessarily mean that the new oils with protect the modern design and builds of these engines for the engines to last as long as the previous engines with their (relative greater crudeness helping with their longevity. If you as the car owner are only concerned about fuel efficiency that means perhaps compromise in other areas of performance of the engine, which may not matter to you if you are not keeping the car too long but will matter to you and future owners of the car in the perhaps more medium and long term of the car and engine life. HTH.

I missed out the letter 's' in sometimes as I already sometimes wish I had an electric screwdriver, I already sometimes go on to the mechanical version of cordless screwdriver, a rachet driver, as I already have withered muscles, not that there was much before, and always had soft skin, and decades since I've done enough to have calyces. Much into double digits with screws I think I'd want a palm battery driver, AA batteries to save having to recycle it just because they make the battery unavailable (an excellent sales con). Not long now before I get clicks from my wrist when using a non-powered screwdriver. 😄 I almost got blisters from rehanging a neighbour's big(er) gate and shed door, as he's from Yorkshire the shed is cheap and unsubstantial, the gates were there before him, and the hinges and screws I put on as replacements added the extra weight needed to stop the shed blowing away, if not over, though they didn't stop the door from dropping again as the whole shed tilted with rain and damp. 😄 He also got some Lidl garden telescopic loppers a few years back and they have been excellent, I clean and use GT85 on them after every use and only need to tighten the socket screws and nuts when I have done lots of cuts on (too) thicker branches, £8.50 or £6.50 he can't remember which, extraordinary value even just with what and how I've used them, good for roots too. I could whinge about German / VW car batteries and alternators as opposed to the Japanese and Korean cars I've dealt (very, very few all combined) but I won't. 😇

Apple - maggot, or maggots if in all Apple devices. I was looking at an 2019 VWŠkoda on-line manual this morning and on one link it was slow to load but the three or four links on the same manual and three or four links after were fine so perhaps that was VWŠkoda's end and that site has been fully down before, too many infested Apples connected to it, who knows. 😁 (I am joking by the way, and I know you chaps were told to use Apple phones at least, and it's not like the Chinese could have had any effect on them, 😁 I'm joking again). Good to know you're sorted and I expect Apple will get this issue sorted. You really need other Apple users to report their experiences on this, perhaps they will. This does emphasis the need for a back up of the full Owner's Manual, printed paper copies I've always found to be very good, no power worries you can view them in daylight and when sunny but I do miss the zoom-in for text and pictures but there's always prescription glasses and/or the magnifying glass (fire risk on a very sunny day perhaps). 😄

Just a quick thought I had before, by ECU I assume you mean ECM so do the numbers on the donor ECM/ECU match those that the VCDS shows, the programs and systems are so intertwined. If you didn't fit the donor you won't have the back up files to perhaps compare(?) from the original ECM/ECU with the donor settings. And did you try auto comfort setting or going back to unknown to see if different or missing values appear. No need to reply just thoughts I meant to put earlier.

Yeah didn't want to suggest as a first reply a gearbox fault in case it's a sign of something depressingly serious better to work up to such a suggestion to a new member by getting more info and others would know much more about the possibilities than I.

Certainly would argue about some dodgy people who work in the motor trade ripping others off, I've plenty of experience of that. It's a matter of need and priority and space or want or interest for many, some would prefer to carry a jump-starter pack I prefer prevention over cure and always changed any suspect battery on a car new to me but can generally judge by car use and multimeter readings a generally state of a battery in any car I have not because I know much about anything just decades of experience of running cars many of them 20-50 years old, as well as modern and even brand new cars in the past and experience of dealing with neighbours' cars and car batteries over decades. If you and others see value in having a battery tester and promote it that's great I think the interpretation of the figures some testers may give could leave to a false negative need for battery replacement, perhaps the one you have is different. I've successfully revived a couple of old "dead" batteries that taking the readings off his Ring charger battery tester suggested wouldn't be worth the effort. I must say this there for a 2005 GM Vauxhall Astra diesel van not a more modern VW product with start/stop and VW German complex computer systems and programming. However I'm not one for boys toys I don't even own an electric screw driver though sometime now with my weak muscles, soft skin, and creaking bones I sometimes wish I had, then I see some simple work done with them badly and glad again I don't have one. I'm not a Luddite just disappointed in the working and quality of some stuff that been about for decades and has gone backwards and/or down in quality or new stuff that just isn't reliable enough or is trusted too much and not checked if it's correct or needs further interpretation or diagnosis from it, and we all know computers aren't always right or correct or accurate. (same as a selection of digital multimeters though 😁).

I don't have enough details of your car or battery dimensions to pin it down exactly and VWŠkoda code 8E0 915 105 B is only going by the 105B shown. 320A DIN is about 530A EN CCA approx. on the conversion chart I have. To me the battery looks factory fit (scan tool reading would confirm), if it is factory fit then as in the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manuals' used to have - "You should replace batteries older than 5 years." - (and IIRC it later changed to 4 years) then if your 2019 car was more than 5 years old at point of sale the VWŠkoda Dealership should change the battery to keep car manufacturer's recommendation. As it still has these horrible bar connects (with fuse links?) you don't want to be taking the battery out too often in case you fatigue or damage anything, so a long long slow recharge as described above with battery on car. If you want or need a new battery and the Dealership wriggle out it, which snakes often do, then measure the battery, go to websites of and see what batteries are offered and confirm fitment, your car's registration (plate) or VIN will speed things up but bear in mind to cross-check as all databases have errors and omissions. Whether you're getting a new battery or not (from you or Dealership) you want to recharge the existing battery as much as you can in the meantime even if it takes more than one session to get it fully charged or charged as much as you can, as Tesco tells us every little helps. Borrowed 😉 Best if it's a "smart" (they're not really) for start/stop batteries and is lower amperage or has a low setting and if it automatically switches to maintain mode when the battery is full even better as you can just connect it up and leave it as long as you like and it doesn't overcharge the battery but keeps it topped up. The battery like 20c and the cold not so much plus when colder you and perhaps things in the car use more electric so greater use when the battery isn't at its best so the computer program judges it can't trust the engine to always be started in stop/start mode without draining the battery beyond a certain level. Have you not been driving long or inexperienced, North West you must be used to cold weather (for much more of the year in my experience 😄 well than in Northamptonshire at least).

One bit of advice I can give, generally hold your photo so that you get a landscape instead of portrait photo generally this gets more information in the photo for car matters and if you can narrow the left sidebar on the VCDS screen box the full line could be seen on "10736664 - Steering End Stops Not Learned" (SIC?) especially in landscape.

In that case was everything working on the car before this need to sort the steering - I've not read other threads or have forgotten so don't know the history to this, for all I know you might have bought a crash car, perhaps a write-off and/or partially repaired. If the ECU swap of computer stuff wasn't done fully or correctly then obviously that could be a big issue. I don't have the knowledge, experience or confidence to be other than very reluctant to try ECU swapping for myself let alone say anything about it to another and I've never used a VCDS (looks very ugly, nerdy, legacy system presentation to me) so at this point as they say on Dragon's Den I'm out. I can only wish you the best of luck with sorting this part of your process. Cheers.

How did you find this out?

Hi, welcome. Sorry your post seems to have been missed. I would guess at the gear linkage possibly being at fault but others would know better. Hopefully my post will help highlight your thread now. Perhaps you have it sorted now in which case if you wanted to you for future viewers you could post what it was and how it was sorted. Cheers.

With the information you learnt unless you have a lot of cars or it's part of your job you don't really need that battery tester but if you or anyone wants one that's fine. Even if you have lots of cars you've learnt enough to know to use a trickle charger maintainer to prevent depletion or when to charge or replace the battery. At the cost of the tester you could buy a Lidl/Aldi "smart" charger maintainer. Don't forget the battery doesn't like the very hot times in summer as well as the cold times in winter (and potentially rest of the year in UK. 🙂) Batteries are too often written off based on the numbers given by battery testers when they might be able to be recovered enough to give more reliable good use, bit like an item that fails the annual MoT you do the repair then it passes, of course not always will the battery be recoverable but many times they might be. A lot of people don't realise that the exterior lights can seem bright enough and the battery state of charge still be too low for the car's computers liking so they can throw up all sorts of unexpected light(s) and perhaps warning(s) and unseen error code(s). By the time the battery can't start the engine the battery is very low, the engine with still start well after the computers start complaining. For the engine to be difficult to start when a battery has been drained over a longer period of time means the battery has now been well hammered with use, abuse and neglect, best not to get to that point. Charging with appropriate use of vehicle or using a charger maintainer in the way detailed before will delay the need for battery replacement and help stop the computers getting very upset, using occasion when required or convenient preventative charging will help delay even further perhaps by many years. For info only, if you want to you you can save space in your post and virtual ink with eBay links by just having the item number by deleting the rest of the link after the end of the item (itm) number, though yours isn't too long some are many lines long, e.g. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372436652444

Perhaps it's a maggot, try opening it up, is that allowed or do they superglue everything up to prevent possibilities of repairs, not thinking differently to other large invasive American corporations. 😁

Well done on sorting that, pity the Dealership didn't do something to sort it for you. Whatever it was it sounds sloppy for a Dealership to return the car to you still with a fault you reported to them, the battery being OK doesn't excuse them returning the car to you and the Start/Stop not activating when it should. Apparently now the Dealerships have caught on to batteries in a low state of charge and perhaps where they can't get away with charging an arm and leg for fitting a new battery and 'coding' they offer at a cost (£40?) to recharge your existing battery or it might be they offer the service to help their customer, yeah, sure, it's the later. You could take a reading tomorrow if you want but then leave it to mid-week or next weekend to take a reading when the car has been parked up at least overnight and see what a normal week's use gives you, hopefully the battery might be even better by then. Unfortunately it happens too often that an ordinary customer without training can do a better job than the paid professionals, mainly because they're allowed to and/or care more. If you ask independent marque specialist that used to work at Dealerships why they left those will be among the reasons or even main reasons sometimes. Good news though, well done.

Thanks for replying. Sorry I think we're just misunderstanding each other. I don't and never suggest rapid charging of old or new car batteries, quite the opposite I suggest for generally, and prefer myself, as low and slow recharge (to full) as reasonably possible (which for me is as long as it takes even if 48+ hours, off car even), my personal troll used to hammer me on this but stopped so I guess he has learnt finally why this can be best method. I also put about referring to the car's 'Owner's Manual' where in the book for my wife's car at least it has for "“Fast charging” with high currents" to disconnect the battery. I'd still suggest and use a low rate charger on a disconnected battery. Rapid charging means very high current to me and often kills a poorly battery so I'd never suggest or use that even on a good battery. I too would say I wasn't giving good advice suggesting rapid or even fast charging with battery disconnected on a battery that appears to have drained over a period of time and use rather than one very high quick drain even then I'd still go low and slow. Sorry if I caused confusion and there still could be mistakes and typos in my posts anyway. Cheers.

Given you had a new battery fitted in January that would be the first area of suspicion, very unlikely to be the battery itself more likely fitting or incorrect coding but even with that I'd expect longer out of the battery but that would depend on your driving and use of electrics in/on the car. Other than computer, electronics or electrics the alternator is best checked for full function, that it was fully charging, or at least trying to, the new (and previous) battery. If it's not, and even if it is, a full scan tool report is needed with an appropriate VW scan tool that has a program for your model and year (or VIN) and that the vehicle program is fully updated on the scan tool before it's connected to your car and the scan tool and car batteries are in a reasonable state of charge. Without as mention you can get spurious scan tool readings and results. Testing a battery and alternator can be with scan tool, dedicated battery tester or old school meter as the battery is so new and problems so pronounced the results should show obvious results of how to proceed. See if you still need to be concerned about the fob after the car issue(s) is/are sorted, there can be a few easy fixes to those issues sometimes.

ETA: I cleared History, (fully) shut down and open the computer and went to the Manual site, again tried all three virions, 11/2024 about just under a second to load first two stages this time but with all three versions I also tried about half a dozen links within the manual's menus and sections and all were opened instantly, one in 11/2024 was slower, partial quick roll down before fully load but less than about half a second (using mind clock only again). Of course this only slightly reinforces the previous findings and to a very limited extent of testing and only on my machine, programs and web programs wires, sockets and electronic connections at those particular times, conditions and circumstances. I can't remember the last time the Manual's site didn't work for me but to my very limited knowledge and experience it seemed a site fault rather than anything else but I didn't test or investigate to confirm as everything else I was using was working well, and you know how poor these big company computer systems are. It was working again next time I tried.

Yeap I know that, 2015 was just an example. Sorry I avoid, well don't use Apple products, Microsh!t to me is often a like a kick in the left testicle and I imagine Apple to be like a kick in the right testicle, neither are on my lists of life's joys but I might be a little number on the left side now and not willing to risk a fresh start to the right at full sensitivity. No use to you but I tried all three 2024 versions, only the 2024/11 wasn't instant (within general acceptance of what that word means) with about less than half-second delay (total guess no timed with anything but my mind) on two steps. I can't think the Americans, Russians and Chinese will be interested enough to slow your search on the local library computer system, and anyway surely they get the info quicker off the Apple stuff, don't use Huawei 😆, you never need look too far for enemies with America as a friend.

Short answer yeap it doesn't exist like it used under car or elsewhere, unless someone puts something in your tank you can forget about it as far as servicing goes but good to know you considered it when servicing, many/most(?) think a whole car servicing is just a change of engine oil and filter.

Yes quite possible but also possible that a poorly made part takes a while to show up its fault(s) or failings, and it's a mechanical part too. Why is that, is the switch or connections more complex that I am considering a simple switch to be, a DIYer can disconnect and reconnect simple items like an ignition switch and check for electric connections using their eyes, nose, ears and feel plus a multimeter on the switch when it is apart or fitted. The switch might be a cheap VIKA or similar and possibly still be good but with old cars and new parts quality as I put or its fitting, or when rooting around looking for the problem with the old part or fitting the new something might have ben upset, disturbed or damaged other than the new parts or the new parts. Like you I have seen enough about parts fitted to car not to rule too much out or too much in but some things can be that common they should be considered at least, certainly not dismissed and not checked.

Well done, that's good, but it is early days yet but if it's sorted, or even if not, you have only gained by doing very easy, simple and clean hands of recharging the battery and if it's a repair even better all jobs are best when, easy simple and clean-hands. Many jobs on a car that are serving, maintenance and even repairs boil down to clean and lubricate, engine oil & filter changes, electronic cleaning with clearing error codes or resetting computer stuff. We'll look on the bright side and say that's the end of that unless you report back with a reoccurrence, whether that happens or not I think you've picked up on how important the state of battery charge and health is/can be on these modern VWs with their very complex and intertwined computer systems and programs.

I've no idea what Halfords do or what tool use for their free battery checks, you need to check state of charge and state of health but these figures by themselves don't tell the full story and like an MoT (whether passed or not) relates only to that one point of time and conditions. Halfords will offer this free service because they sell batteries, their battery are good, whether under their own label or not but generally are higher priced and they have a different system of battery numbering than other places and I'm not sure about their fitment database as they are more car/pushbike/other generalised. As with all companies some of the people there are very good (if allowed to be by their bosses or the company) but some aren't and/or aren't given enough (any?) training. So if I've got it right, 2019 Kamiq petrol, manual, SE-L (so more standard electric bits fitted and/or activated by VW, then if you list the electric driver "aids" and "assists", standard fitting and extras that might have been added you'll get an idea of how long the list is of possibly electric use by the driver that the battery and alternator have to power. These two items are very related if one isn't in good condition then the other has to work harder so both wear more, though of course the wear on alternator is relative and doesn't mean it should play up until many years of use (decades with the better Japanese cars and alternators, or at least it used to be smaller batteries and smaller and more efficient alternators, the Germans like lots of weight to their vehicles). ETA: Good luck, let us know how you get on with the free Halfords battery check and if you can post a photo of the battery with label info I and other may be able to advise you on that and a replacement if required - and if you can't get it out of the Dealership if appropriate, I'm not always against Dealerships as in a previous life I dealt with the general public for decades so I can see good and not so good or bad in both sides (and before anyone thinks different I don't think you're not so good or bad, not by anything you have posted in this thread and that's all I know of you).

With an appropriate scan tool. Any information you get from any source including manufacturers and their websites and databases does need to be checked and cross referenced. You could look at some good battery and parts suppliers sites giving specific information to your make, model and year of car and compare the information (note some use the same origins of information that may be good or not) or ask other owners of the same model and year on here that still have the factory original battery, note VW don't splash out on their 12v car batteries so treat them as an adequate minimum standard, you could get better than VW bothered to. For this subject and others It's good to have other posters give their advice, information, opinions, views and beliefs for you to choose and use as you see fit. If you can put up a good photo (landscape usually gives more info than portrait of your battery if it shows the label information that will help identify if your battery is about right for your model, I don't see here if it's petrol or diesel, manual or auto and I wouldn't know the trim and how much electric that that and other it has on it, and this information could affect the advice to the battery you might need for your requirements, then there's your use of those electric bits but for the Dealership it only needs to meet factory spec or reasonable for used car sale. HTH.