nta16

The 1969 car was probably rebuilt nearer or probably over 30 years ago, I forget when I first saw it, he may have rebuilt the brake lines and at that point fitted new master, slave wheel cylinders I don't know as I've never asked and can't remember what I might have seen (you certainly wouldn't fit new made parts later and now and p1ss-poor Chinese rubbish rubber must have been around perhaps 20 years ago and still is. Modern made "classic" car parts can be so cheap that many, or many, many years, stock are made and bought in one go, if they last 12 months from sale then they are not usually replaced under warranty. Some parts you might be lucky to see them last 12 days let alone 12 months and that is if you can fit them and they work at first use or just after first use. I was lucky I got about 2.5 years out of one modern made rear wheel cylinder I fitted before it leaked, car parked overnight at the international classic motor show at the NEC after doing rides ready to do more the next day plus get me 50 miles back home, luckily the rear brakes do so little. These parts make some modern VW parts almost look good and long lasting. As I have put before on another forum I was told by the American car owner of a 1940s/50s MG which he had bought and run for about 18 months when he decided to change the brake fluid (DoT 3 or 4) and as he emptied out he saw a distinct change of colour to the fluid coming out at one point and found DoT 5 had been put in with DoT 3 or 4 at some point before his ownership and until then he never knew or experience any difference to the braking. Perhaps he was lying but it did not seem he was to me. He thought the silicone fluid had been in the system for a very long time in with the traditional stuff.. My mate pushed the new DoT 5 into the system and the introduced DoT5 pushed out the existing DoT 4 and as is normal good practice made sure plenty of Dot 5 was also pushed out to ensure no muck was left in or air bubbles. As I had previously drained, flushed refilled the DoT 4 with two to three times the system fill capacity it should have already been very clean other than if a rubber seal is breaking down. DoT 4 is so very cheap why would you not be very thorough with the brakes and checking the possibility of p1ss-poor Chinese rubbish rubber fitted and breaking down. When I done the brake and clutch systems with DoT 4 I would have a bucket of water, watering can with water, wet and very damp rags in case of spillage or leak to save the paint. With Dot 5 you don't need to worry about the paint being stripped Good very (very) old rubber seals can break down with age so I think if this happens after putting DoT 5 in many will blame the DoT 5 and not the ancient rubber. The Driver's Handbook had to change the brake seals at 36 months (two book changes of DoT 3 (at the time) of the brake fluid) but very few if any owners ever did change the seals and had no problems in those days and much later with the seals. He also uses 10w-40 engine oil though 20w-50 is specified, IIRC his relative works at Castrol. For many years he has also had the model name sake of the Midget, it has an uprated engine and other stuff and used regularly and not driven slowly and his job involves working on classic Jag and the like race engines. He prefers his own knowledge and experience to the popular "wisdom" believes, as I do, but he has more to be confident about than I. Now, that should have covered it for you. 😄

Hi, still at it then. 😣 If you can't or don't want to drive the car and can't get anyone with VCDS(?) experience on this then perhaps the old turn-it-uff-'n'-on-agen might get some of the car's computer bits out of a twist. What you asked about before, I used to suggest to try the following but often got slaughtered for the suggestion (it's not always about direct relationship but sometimes indirect with these computers, a problem can flow to elsewhere too). Fully disconnect the battery, turn on the headlights (even though the battery is disconnected), get the two battery terminal leads joined to create a path for as many seconds as you see fit, if you want to then leave disconnected battery resting for a while, before reconnecting battery remember to turn off headlights. As appropriate or as you prefer - start the car and go for a drive - or go through reset procedure - or plug scan tool back in to see if any values are back. Obviously take all the usual care and cautions when doing above and consult the car's 'Owner's Manual' for what might be lost with battery disconnection, often it's just time of day clock in reality if prior to disconnecting you closed all powered windows and roof, also use 'Owner's Manual' to confirm disconnect and reconnect procedures. The above might not cure your issue but it's a simple quick easy clean-hands thing to try and only recently another member tried battery disconnection and it might have cleared an engine light, done properly it can do no harm so perhaps worth a go at this stage. Good luck.

Oh dear. At least it didn't go up in smoke or flames.

And my reply. - I saw that mate today with the car he bought from me and he confirmed (again) he did not pre-flush the brake system when it had DoT 4 in it he just used the Dot 5 to push out the DoT 4 and fill with DoT 5, and he did not replace the seals. Just 4 pushed out by 5. And he confirmed the (other, 1969 MG B) car he rebuilt 25+ years ago and put DoT 5 in then he has never changed that fluid or any seals in all that time. He has no problem with brakes or brake pedal feel in either car, and he is not a slow driver in either car. Photo of (purple in this case) DoT 5 silicone fluid in brake system (and previously filled clutch system) 1973 MG Midget. -

If they are genuine Pioneer they should be reasonable and reliable, 3 way so the player might have (or might not, too new to me) setting for such for best and/or it could to allow for expansion of the system, three is only better if sounding better than another with two or one. Bit sad to see even then "Made in China" but China has, and does, made high quality stuff when required (and perhaps checked). It doesn't look a nice installation but that is the store owner taking advantage of them and you, you can't blame them unless they own and run the store. We have similar problems here but of course business are allowed to get away with it and blame put on the workers/employees, when they are not modern day slaves, often by their own people. You seem to have as much luck with your car as I used to have with mine (went out for a quick ride in my old car this afternoon, very nice, and very shiny unlike when I had it). Last car "stereo" (it was actually mono) I bought and fitted was New Old Stock unopened from the 1970s and a NOS upgrade speaker (I can't remember if the speaker was 2.5w or 4w). 😀 For a 1970s car of course, when your car was new-ish.

That is nothing to do with race, a p1ss-poor quality workman is a p1ss-poor workman, in England we have lots of English workmen that are p1ss-poor quality and I am sure in Greece you have many p1ss-poor quality Greek workmen. As I have put many times I would generally prefer to employ women and I am not being sexist against men as I am sure there can be poor quality workwomen but generally they are not mentally hindered by the chemicals from having testis. At least you got it sorted. Many "stereos" I've seen since the 1980s look hideous to me and the modern touch screen stuff with bright colours look more like a toddler's toy t me, especially the ones from China - but that's just me. Modern sound quality generally is so much better though (well ignoring cheap stuff during and just after Covid that VW might have thrown into their cars perhaps).

I thought you were going to try an electric pump to rule out the mechanical pump. Have you taken the cable ends off to check free movement by hand keeping the cable in position and any bends check free movement of accelerator pedal connection and linkage (if it has any) and free movement at carb end and connection and linkage, if it has any. Visually inspected outer and inner cable for fraying or catches on outer casing. Are you sure the carb is fitted fully correctly and set up fully correctly. - I once had an American carb (Holley) and it was pulling engine oil and what felt like shutting down one bank of cylinders at a certain range of revs. The car was with an "American carb expert" for a week and he couldn't find anything so I took it to an old school English car and carbs tuning chap and after 20 minutes of looking and trying stuff he pulled off one of the vacuum pipes and blocked it off with a large screwdriver and then the carb and engine ran well through the problem rev range. An unnecessary vacuum line had been used and blocking engine and carb ends solved the issue, no more of my expensive engine oil was burnt and the carb and engine ran as they should. That's me out of thoughts, ideas and stories again.

I'm sure the Alpine built-in amp is fine, otherwise you would know on the front speakers at least at high volume. Like engine power little is used normally but you have to allow for bursts of high perhaps sustained power. 25 year old is a bit new to me, was it from factory two speakers, radio cassette player? I've no idea what's in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 power wise but it's more than enough for how I listen to things now (almost always speech radio anyway).

Have you checked the engine oil level since its back home. You do need to ensure the X-Tool is suitable for your model and year (or VIN), I'm sure it is otherwise you'd not have bought it but for other readers, and then always check for updates for your car or VWŠkooda before every use of the X-Tool including taking it out of the box new. Then you want the car's battery and if appropriate scan tool battery both at reasonably good states of charge before using. Have a look on this chaps' YT channel for info and demos on checking ECM (and lots of other stuff) properly (IIRC he sometimes uses an X-Tool too). - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos HTH. Good luck.

Music systems are louder now to overcome the overloud exhausts which have to pop and bang, and sometimes throw flames to draw attention to the car, driver and occupant(s). Then they whinge like mad when Police or local residents give them a lot of notice. Some might as well put big illuminated signs on the roof begging to be stopped to check for irregularities and unlawfulness. Not much different to when we were lads only then we only had old bangers and if the exhausts were excessively noises it was because of rust and the stereos (if they weren't single speaker mono) were 2.5 watts at a push so even with all windows fully wound down the tuneless singing was probably more of a disturbance. Alpine radio-cd-mp3 player Google search bring up 60w x 4 (built in amp) how the 60w is calculated isn't mentioned so the 100/130 w speakers are like having a 225 kph speedo in a car with a top speed of 160 kph. If you're lucky an electrician will know about electricity but nothing of sound quality, or true speaker requirements (that's not to say 100/130 w speaker can't be good sound quality but that not just the wattage number, it's back to Spinal Tap's amp that goes to 11. looks impressive to some/many(?).

It can clear and reset some things but not if there is an underlying fault. It's the old computer(s) having brain-farts and getting their panties in a twist so the old "switchin' 'em uff 'n' on agen" can help clear their tiny dumb brains. I used to recommend trying it, particularly on older cars, but a few here used to slate me for it and said it would work on this that and the other but my idea was more to clear the codes and some resets as one computer "glitch" in one area can cause "glitches" in others that are unrelated to the first and these "glitches" can be unseen, particularly without a scan tool, and clearing one, possibly unseen "glitch" can sometimes clear the "glitch" and issue(s) of concern. Plus it's easy to do and done properly does no harm. If you have a scan tool then you'd just clear the codes. Give it 10 or 12 journeys and see if the light returns, if it doesn't the doubters will say it was definitely cleaning the egr valve, and it could have been or contributed to resolve. Good luck, let us know if the light comes back on or after whatever number of drives. ETA: it took me a second or two and wondering what model you actually had to realise your photo was upside down. 🙃

Depending on what material the cones are made of you could rejuvenate them and make with a suitable cleaner polisher for the material. Presumably the electric connections are fine and the speakers work. 100w is just a figure, the factory stereo was surely never anywhere near a 100w, then you have to ask how is the figure of 100w got. If the amp is X watts per channel then the speaks only need to x watts. It is quality that counts not silly made up figures, remember Spinal Tap and the amp goes to 11 ! 😄 Yours is a noisy small car so say a real 70 watts per (two) channel amp to good quality efficient speakers should be more than enough even for the poor quality (and low) recordings of the 60s, 70s and 80s heavy ("metal") and poodle rock.

If you have fully disconnected the battery as extra measure you could turn on the headlights (switch) and bridge across the battery terminal leads for a-number of seconds just to ensure the dregs of electric are out, don't forget to turn off the headlights (switch) after. If the egr valve is mucky it won't hurt to clean it either, you are cleaning the electronics by clearing them too but where either (or both) makes any odds to the light returning is a different matter. I would clean whatever I could for air and fuel going in and through at 130k-miles, and as Tesco tells us every little helps, still might not stop the light returning but if something needs cleaning now it probably will later so why not do it now. I'd clean throttle body and MAF sensor (with dedicated cleaning products) a few years back just cleaning the MAF sensor on my neighbour's 2005 Astra van made a big difference to how it revved, much to his surprise and he was used to working on cars. Again I'm not saying this or any of above cleaning will prevent the light return but any and all could improve performance to some extent. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I'm a fan of Millers Oils as they in England and do good blends and often recommend them, I noticed in the vid they had a can of Millers but didn't show using it. Which Millers oil are they proposing to use? If you are unsure about it you can phone Millers and speak to them. There's usually a premium to pay to have the VW label on the bottle and AFAIK they must buy the oil in and they would change contracts with suppliers over time anyway. ETA: I used Millers engine oil and Millers gearbox oil in my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia both I believe are better than the VWŠkoda recommended ones, the gearbox oil made a noticeable difference but this is on a 5-sped manual box.

If you have physically inspected the air filer and housing inside then great. Dark oil in black engine bay parts can be difficult to see and with so many pipes, hoses everywhere you can't se all anyway without taking things off, same for loose or cracked hoses or connections, then there poor electric connections and wires, faulty sensors, let alone computer system(s) brain-farts, and the list goes on. Having a code or report or live data can help narrow the search down and more info for diagnosis. The only other thing I've just thought of is you could see if the exhaust emissions look different to usual out of the tail pipe on start up, after idling, driving, etc.. Good luck. If you get more info or hear, feel or smell is happening with the car, let us know.

You could check the air filter and its housing are clean enough, for any pipes off, loose or cracked, oil where there shouldn't be any or not as much. Diesel engine generally are dirty things so you want them as clear running as possible from beak to tail (air in from intake on, fuel through, to exhaust emissions out). If there are no noticeable symptoms and you can't see or fell anything, mpg hasn't been declining, no difference in starting the engine in any conditions then a full scan tool report (with proviso mentioned before) may be needed or a simple code read out might help to start with. I'm not a mechanic, or expert in anything, and know even less about diesels than even petrols (which isn't a lot) so with the information you've given to the questions I've asked and without knowing the history of the car I've exhausted what I can think of now. Others will be able to suggest more but at the moment without a code it's a bit like how long is a piece of string and what colour is the string estimating/guessing. See what others post.

Did you put petrol in yesterday? ETA: Forget that I momentarily forgot it's a diesel. 🙃 What did you check on the engine. You could have a look for common engine faults for your engine code here but there are also general common causes, with a diesel it can be to do with emissions and/or DPF particularly if the car's had lots of slow short journey use, other lights might show or come on later. What did you check in the engine bay (air filter and housing)? Warrior196 uses Autophix OM126P, whatever reader or scan tool you buy or use it needs to be for VW and have the program for you model and year (or VIN) and for the program to be fully up to date before you use it each time on your car and your car battery needs to be in a reasonable state of charge, and if appropriate the battery for the scan tool, otherwise it is possible to get iffy readouts. There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other scan tools that offer at least readings and reports, if not more, for beer tokens, some others might be professional so different renumerations, you could look and see if there is a suitable member near you from the following list and map. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

The light could be on for so many reasons, a OBD code reader would (just) give you the generic error codes that might (or might not) lead you to the source or cause directly or indirectly. There are many inexpensive error code readers just for the generic OBD codes available to buy. Next step up is a scan tool which you can be told details about if you want. There is no point to a trick just to turn the light off if you don't know why it came on, it needs investigating. Just turning it off will usually only mean tat it comes back on again and whatever caused the light to come on may get worse. More information is needed to really be able to help you, circumstances of what was happening, the driving, when the light come on, has it happened before, any new parts or work done recently, service history, usage of the diesel engine now and in the past, any other lights or messages, etc., etc.. HTH.

Though you normally quote me out of context you have not quoted me at all in this thread just taken the context you want. As I put before a long time back if you wanted to help rather than just troll you would have put or asked about where I had mad a mistake (in this case and were you thought I'd made a mistake in other cases) rather than always nasty sniping. I was not apologising to you on this as you have never apologised to me despite me bending over backwards to put up with you and apologising when it wasn't my fault just to keep the piece and you happy, but I stopped that long ago. There wasn't an insult only facts of what you do and a sarcastic remark as that's all you understand and you give sarcastic remarks out to me and others frequently, even those new to the site. You are happy to dish sarcastic remarks out by the bucket load but not take anything back. Are you just making things up - I haven't noticed any of my posts removed, no moderators have contacted me. How can I threaten you, to me you are an anonymous troll in the ether, and what could I even threaten to do, that's ridiculous. 😆 As I've put before I have to put up with and ignore you as much as possible but I won't let you bully me. And as I've put before you could ignore me. You don't just look for my mistakes to prevent others not realising these mistakes as you consistently hammered me on at least a couple of things that you later found that you was wrong about and I was correct about but no apologises to me for those or the sarcasm and snipping. In the early days we exchanged quite friendly posts and I was accommodating to you even you were a bit brittle but then I don't know if you put too much about yourself and regretted it but I have never referred to it so can see no reason for your later nastiness. As I've put before I don't mind having my mistakes pointed out but you don't do that you just insult and belittle. IF you had just pointed out where I was wrong I would agree and apologise to all, including you, I have posted (many) other mistakes and typos that you have not seen or posted about and when I notice them I edit (clearly showing the edit if required rather than just covering up) and thank those that point out any typos or mistakes or when I'm wrong. Mainly for you, as you know I used to put "Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything." at the very start of every post I made but other members put that this was unnecessary on an open forum and too repetitive so I have just left it in my signature. And I often include in my posts that others should check and cross reference for themselves any information they get from any source. Once again you've put us on the same boring merry-go-round and we get nowhere, try altering your attitude to me or ignore me, there's a setting on the site for this if you want to use it. I don't have the 'Ignore' setting for you as when you are in better moods you post lots of useful info and when you don't I don't comment, I post without reference to you, you could do the same.

Looking at my post there's a typo(s) I'd not noticed as my troll is so quick to jump in on me I originally missed it, my fault for letting him get to me, he's not so much my shadow as brown stuff to my blanket. 😄 . What I really meant is, as has been put, (I'd) start with trying to polish out before even thinking about adding paint (clear coat), if the scratch or marking does one-finger polish out/off then that's the end of it, if not next-to nothing lost by trying other than then taking the polish off for paint/clear touch up I originally thought about for my post putting questions about the scratch but the answers wouldn't mean a lot and as I put a photo might help a bit or might not and descriptions like deep or light scratch are relative - but if it's not too deep then worth trying to polish out. Good Luck.

I think the naming gets confused by many, basically (I think, though I'm never sure if I'm on my a*rse or elbow when dealing with VW stuff) Torx is 6 lobes and Torx Plus is 5 lobes then you add a centre pin (or centre hole) and it becomes the security / tamper-resistant version of either. I only discovered the 5 lobe (security) version when helping a neighbour with his 2005 GM Vauxhall Astra van, neither of us have good eyes and couldn't work or why a Torx screw driver or any of his drive bits would fit and thought perhaps it was a Torx size neither of us had. So I bought that set of US Pro (Bergen) sockets as they were what I found at the time, I didn't really want 3/8" drive sockets, especially on the smaller sizes, but thought I could always knock the bits out if I wanted to. One of them was used that one time and none of them probably used again but it was a needs must at the time.

I bought a pistol-grip remote clip pliers and still struggled to get on to a couple of clips because of where the ends were on the hoses, PITA, and yet another "special" tool required to do a simple job, worm type Jubilee clips are fine as long as you don't overtighten them on all the fantastic-plastic bits.

Torx Plus ETA: tamper-resistant / security version - Not to be confused (like me, anyone remember Soap) with the 6 lobed tamper-resistant / security version. -

Yes you should always take note of what the customer tells you but always check for yourself to confirm, no matter who tells you.

I think (not sure as these things get unnecessarily complicated names and numbers, perhaps VW invented them, or Merc or BMW) a T40 Torx plus is the one with the centre pin, sometimes known as tamperproof or security. I can advise you not to use a small Torx plus / tamperproof / security / other(s) (male) drive bit on a standard Torx socket that is very tightly fitted as the lack of centre can cause the bit to twist its bits, guess how I know.