Cocain

Ok here is the guide to replace the blower motor but hopefully you do not have to as you near enough need to remove the whole dash. Some people remove the steering wheel nut others have done it by loosening the dash and moving it to get access to the motor and remove it. ! Good luck

I have Def seen a guide somewhere on this subject. I think people remove the pollen filter under the glove compartment and blow air through there. I'll have a look and see if I can find the blower motor replacement guide

Go to the guides section or YouTube. I do believe you cannot remove the glovebox but you can remove the upper glove box to access the motor and passenger airbag.

Ok thanks

Are the bushings hard to get out? Never done them before. And considering getting all mine done.

I wouldn't replace the battery. I wouldn't charge it weekly. I would take the battery to get it tested. How do you charge it? Do you disconnect it fully and then give it a slow trickle charge? As that is better than leaving it connected. You say you do not use it much but if I was not using my car for 2- 3 weeks I would disconnect my battery. How often do you actually use it? If you do a long journey when you do drive it that should charge it. If you do not do long journeys then it shouldn't be too bad if if it does fail as you may be local and not too much hassle to get a new one. If you are dead set on getting a new one then get it just incase but don't install it. Then see how you get on with the current battery without charging it at all.

Thanks

Hi Guys, I went check my oil yesterday and noticed that the lid that covers the fuses on the battery has gone. I have searched eBay and can't find one. Does anyone know the correct name for it or part number. It looks like this below. Thanks

And get Ur battery tested

So it seems like you have a paresetic draw from somewhere. Find someone near you to scan it and see if you have any fault codes present. For example I don't know what spec car you have but if you have touch door opening sensors and one dies Irfan make the car wake-up and not shut down properly. Same goes for a lot of other sensors that have to be working for the car to sleep.

What about the other questions???

To my limited knowledge this is not possible in the situation you have described unless your head unit is not wired as you have stated or is not operating as you have stated. Either the head unit is connected or it isn't. the speakers cannot draw power/signal/energy without power being connected to them. Use a multimeter at the speaker connection with car on off and harness disconnected but the result will be it's not the speakers

Here are the ones I bought https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-seat-4-Pads-Universal-Carbon-fiber-Heated-Seat-Heater-Pad-Kit-5-Level-Switch-/304068538094?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

That could be the solution then. Buy the cheap kit off eBay and just switch the plugs. 👍

I would not like to say because mine came with a relay already attached in-between the switch and the heating elemen pads so it was just install it and done. I would have to undo the all of the brading of the loom to see what goes where and also I do not know if it is the same as the genuine Skoda loom etc. Hopefully someone who has done it will chip in.

I took the easy option and bought the heated pads off eBay for for around £30 and they work great.

Ok that is great. And makes sense. I previously fitted a rear interior light and had it wired to manually turn on and off but now have decided I would also like it to turn on when the doors open and was wondering what triggers it and thought it must be a ground signal.

Hi Guys, Can someone please tell me what are the pin outs / wires on the connector. What I am trying to establish is what exactly triggering the light to turn on when the door is open. Is it a ground connection as it does not seem to be a live. Which one is the trigger wire Thanks

There is a main loom that enters the cabin on the driver's side under the scuttle panel. I had to run a power cable from the battery to car audio amps for a sub install. I had to remove the wiper mechanism though as it was in the way (around 45 mins to 1hr work). You maybe able to do it without that work due to the size of the cable. Just lubricate a cable feeder wire a push it gently through the grommet alongside the main wires. You can see loom come through the bulk head if you look up high behind the steering wheel.

I think your problem maybe the light seal on the light unit. My problem was both the light seal and the vent seal. If you take the light out then run the water again below the level of the whole where the light is screwed in (just above the vents) then you will know if it's the light or vent. 2 minutes to test this Here is a video link of me taking off the air flaps under the rear bumper to seal them if anyone is interested it may help 🤷🏿‍♂️ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497042-water-leak-in-trunk-fix

Thanks dude and no worries. Anymore problems that I can help with let me know. 👍

I have hex + can I'm happy to help anyone but I am a novice. I'm in High Wycombe, Bucks

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499870-skoda-fabia-2012-bluetooth-upgrade-help/

Here is a quote from another thread Go on www.carsystems. pl I have retrofitted bluetooth to my octavia vrs & my wife's yeti, buying both modules from them.They supply the original skoda bluetooth units so you have full function with maxidot & mfsw if you have them. Simple to fit & if you email them to ask any questions you have re compatibility etc they are very helpful. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/288897-bluetooth-retrofit-to-yeti-se-with-amundsen/?do=findComment&comment=3427642

And another https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/362454-amundsen-with-no-bluetooth-module/