Cocain

Depending on the DSP you get it can make it easy as you can play around and change the phase in the software and get a better response for the speaker position and the cabin of the car. A lot cars with subs sound better if you open the back window a little furthest away from the listener / driver. https://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/cabin_gain.html

I had the problem with a car seat for my little girl and the cup holders that pull out were too big. I used thermo plastic to make a sleeve . You melt it by heating it up in hot water then mould your shape and when it cools it goes hard. If you want to change the shape you can reuse it by putting it on hot water again. It worked great. I use it for lots of other stuff. If you look around you can buy it on various colours.

Depending on what your budget is, how much time you have and how good you are at car D.I.Y. I would suggest the following : Without changing the speakers... Try as much as you can to make the door where the speaker is mounted as rigid and solid as possible. Deaden the door with sound deadening material that you can buy online on lots of places. Also deaden the speaker baffle as it is just plastic. Make sure all of the access holes on the door are sealed. You can cover them with the deadening material. You can also get some round foam circles that stick onto the interior surface of the door behind the speaker. Make sure that there is not a gap around the edge of the speaker and it is sealed. Also no gap from the front of the speaker to the door card so no waves go outwards and hot the inside of the door card. All of these things will help the music come out of the speaker instead of being absorbed by the door or hitting the door causing resonance and buzzing. So instead of the speaker playing you actually hear the speaker and door playing which is not good. Level up is to add an aftermarket amp. Even with an aftermarket amp and no speaker upgrade it will sound better if you do not push it too hard and you deaden the doors well. next level up speaker upgrade but you will need to use the old speaker plastic baffle and make a template to create a new mount from 12" or 18" marine birch plywood (do not use MDF) Make sure you make a foam gasket in between it and the door to seal it. You may find this will help but not astronomically as doors are not a great place for mid bass speakers so I would advise not breaking the bank on really expensive speakers as it is more important to install the speakers well and have them on a good location before you start shelling out on expensive speakers. next level up would be to add a sub woofer in an enclosure to add to the above. This would sound the most impressive and probably be worth doing as you will notice it the most. If you do not know how to do this find a GOOD shop or I can point you on the right direction of people on YouTube to follow to do it yourself. If you really want your car to sound hands down 100% better then get an amp with a DSP in it and get someone who knows how to tune it to do it for you and you will be blown away.

Yes they are noisy. I love the Skoda cars as they have good value for money but they are noisy with a lot of creaks, hums, buzzes in the plastic trims etc and wind noise. I had a Fabia vrs for a short period of time whilst looking for another car. I am a car audio enthusiast so I may be a little more picky than others. I ended up ripping the car apart and sound deadening the whole thing. I am not suggesting you do that but you can get good results by going over the rubber door seals with some rubber moisturiser. And also buying some sticky backed felt sheets so you can cut to shape and apply to the inside of the door frame (if yours does not have any). I removed air vents, door trims, glove box, sunglass holder, interior light and anywhere that plastic touched plastic and put a layer of felt behind it or Tessa tape. After taking apart a lot of my previous cars (that have been Audi) I could see that yes the materials used were more premium but the main thing was they put more decoupling materials in between trims which added up to the car being more quiet with less squeeks and rattles.

May I ask What is it that you are trying to gain from this 'speaker upgrade'?

You can get in through a grommet on the driver's side scuttle panel. You have to remove the windscreen wiper to get the panel off then you will see other cables going into the car through a grommet.

Mate your rattle wool be back. I spent so much time getting rid of rattles in my vrs (sold it now). I was doing an audio system so I sound deadened the door but the thing that stopped the rattles and buzzes was putting thin sticky foam sheets on the inside of the door card. Then using tesa tape on the door handle trim bit that clips out and anywhere plastic touches plastic including the little grooves that the door clips slide into as they tend to rattle. It worked a treat

Don't worry I will probably back when something goes wrong and I run out of money to fix it

I have a D4 4.0 used to have a & D3 4.2TDI previously 😂😂😂

Audi A8 😂😂 I know it's a contrast but I came from A8 and only bought the Fabia in between whilst looking for the A8.

Hi All I have just sold my mk2 vrs and am taking out my audio install. I have a sub box (no sub included) on offer for free if anybody. on here would like it. It is built to fit into the spare wheel space and will house a JL Audio 13Tw5 sub. If any of you guys would like it please let me know before it get rid of it. Obviously you would have to buy another 13Tw5 if you wanted to make use of it or you could chop the baffle off (make a new one) and use another sub depending on mounting depth of the basket and magnet of replacement sub. You would have to collect from High Wycombe Buckinghamshire as it is heavy. Thanks

Have you completed the whole job now?

Here is a pic of the C pillar. For the C pillar removal gently pry out the plastic airbag tab. Remove the torx screw hidden behind it the pull sharply at the points where the clips are located in the pic.

Yes You need to take the trim off in the middle first. You'll see in this video that it is off already. Then you can take the side ones off that give you access to the lights You have to undo the plastic screw with your hands that is directly behind the light in the boot and also take out the torx screw of the bag luggage handle and that should give you enough room to access.

How is your car for rattles and squeaks? I was considering getting a Skoda Superb but I am put off from hearing about the noises. I currently have a Fabia that is terrible for noise (although fully soundproofed). I bought it for a run around whilst I am looking for the right Audi A8 but then started considering getting a Superb but I have read the noises are everywhere. After coming from my previous A8 I am very picky.

People will not realise until they have sat in a good SQ car and then have something to reference against. It is not their fault as they do not know and more importantly probably do not care. But the day they hear it with some music they enjoy they will be blown away and realise it is not just about loud volume and bass.

Anytime I have problems with solutions to mounting things and finding brackets I use the mouldable plastic that you put in hot water. You can make anything you want and reshape it if you need to. You should try it

No worries The headliner Def is the route to go

Ok that makes sense why there is no canbus box on the head unit. On my one you can see quite a lot info from the car on the head unit like if a door is open etc. There is plenty of space to put that delay box in the tailgate if it is on the camera end. Wrap it up in something soft so it doesn't rattle and the cable tie it to one of the metal supports in the boot door. Yes the bottom trims have to be taken off in the correct order and you need to know where the screws are and then where the clips are or you will end up breaking stuff whereas the top way is just rubber seal. When you take the the rear light out you may need to take off the boot trim where your legs are when you are looking into the boot. There are some screws and trim clips to undo. Then you will be able to pull back the luggage compartment side trim by the light and leave it hanging. This way you will be able to see what you are doing when trying to access the rev light wiring.

Ok, I have just looked at the link for the camera you posted and the wiring looks different BUT as I said before try it first without the rev light connection. My wiring had a wire from the head unit for the power and picture signal but also had a tail wire to connect to the rev light. After running the wires down to the rev light it worked out that it did not need it because of the can box has all of the info coming I to the head unit. Does your car have steering wheel control for volume/change track etc.? If it does then the head unit should have a canbus control box I think

You'll need an old coat hanger or skinny type of feeder tool to feed it down or you can just undo the C pillar buy flicking out the tab that covers the screw and then giving the pillar a quick sharp tug to release the clips. You should be able to feed the wire down to the rear light BUT BUT BUT. You may not need to get a feed from the rear light as some of the units send the feed from the head unit if it has a can box in the loom so try it straight from the head unit 1st as it may have the signal wire and power trigger there already.

It's easier to run the cables up the A pillar along the roof and then down. All you have to do is pull away the rubber from the A pillar and the top of the roof trim. I have removed all of the trim in this car to sound proof the floor, boot doors etc. and also fitted a rear camera (that I actually hardly look at now🤭🙃) and the A pillar will be the easiest.

Climatic switch only works on 4 and you sorted it out, does that mean you changed the resistor? And if so you may have disconnected the passenger air bag to get to it? If this is the case then it needs to be reset with VCDS as the ECU will store a fault code.

I think the cheapest option would be to buy a new switch as they are cheap. Or find someone close to you with a Fabia to try their switch as it will only take 10 mins to suss out if it is the switch or not at least then you know you are heading in the right direction.