classic

Yes, I got a set of identical original alloys from a breakers and got winter tyres fitted. Mine were 16” and the wheels were around £270 for the set including delivery. I guess VRs wheels will be more money… I also sold them with the winters on and pretty much got the wheel money back. There are often sets advertised on here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/

Not a vrs but I’ve previously had a separate set of alloys with winter tyres which I swapped on and off appropriately each winter. But currently I’m running Michelin cross climates all year round. They’ve been really good in extreme wet and were also perfectly good in snow. I’m sure you can run smaller wheels with winter tyres on the vrs, but I’d think you’d need to at least inform your insurance that you are varying it from normal whereas using the correct wheels keeps it standard in that respect. Cross climates have been good but knocked the fuel consumption by about 3mpg. On the other hand I’ve found they are lasting really well compared to normal tyres. I don’t know whether all season tyres would be a compromise for the good weather handling of a vrs but for ordinary driving they seem pretty good.

I don’t know off the top of my head what turbo is on your engine but there’s going be more to it than whether it hasn’t got play or it spins ok. And the actual turbo itself could be fine but not be getting controlled properly due to incorrect signals from sensors elsewhere. There will be an actuator to vary boost pressure correctly either operating a wastegate or more likely variable vanes in the turbo. and this will be operated by vacuum or electrical. There will also be sensors determining how it operates. Have you had it scanned for fault codes, or tested if it is providing the correct boost pressure ? If it’s blowing black smoke then at a basic level there isn’t enough air getting in or there’s too much fuel.

I suspect the turbo is not providing sufficient boost.

Slave cylinder looks to be external and reasonably easy to remove on mine, a 2015 1.4 6 speed manual. (Picture taken with battery tray and air intake pipes removed).

Watched a couple of videos on these. The rectangular screen behind the steering wheel looks terrible. Is it a joke or a temporary preproduction thing ?

If it worked then great, but I am very wary of such additives. Maybe it had been trying to do a regen which kept being interrupted by you stopping the car hence the fan running on more than normal. After adding the cleaner you took it on over 50 miles of motorway after which it was ok. Possibly the 50 miles of motorway was all it needed to complete a dpf regen and the cleaner being present was coincidental ? Proper dpf cleaning is done by connecting into the exhaust before the dpf by removing a pipe, or sensor, then dpf cleaner added under pressure from an air line whilst the engine is running. I agree with Paws4Thot and would add that if a cleaning substance is resilient enough to make it through the combustion chamber then do you really want it inside the rest of the fuel system ?

Sure is.

Well done ! Last clutch I did on the drive was on a Toyota Aygo, probably half the weight of your gearbox and I said never again after that.

Closing in on 100k miles.

Cheers for the help guys. I’ll keep my eyes out on what’s available.

Cheers Rooted, I am wary of dsg but I believe the dq 380 and 381 are better than the dry clutch ones. Superb would be an ideal car for me and there seems to be more tdi and dsg available.

I’m seriously considering getting a Superb estate, mainly for the boot space and rear legroom. Looking at 2020 onwards models, I’d quite happily have a 1.5 tsi but there seems to be a lot more available with diesel and most seem to be dsg. Does anyone know the difference between a 150 and 200ps engine, is it the same engine mapped differently or a different turbo or engine altogether ? Also are all the dsg boxes 7 speed now and would it be the wet clutch version with a tdi ? cheers

I think that sounds like what is actually the main coolant pump, they are expensive as it is integral with the thermostat housing, and it is quite an involved job to replace them. The term auxiliary isn’t really correct, there is also an electric auxiliary pump, but no belt involved so it sounds like they are referring to the main pump. From what I’ve read on here the price sounds right for changing the main coolant pump/thermostats. eg : https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/hepu-8334403.html?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=20068253496&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu6PWabBNVU9JP0iJabrBYbxUklm4Q6nkuyVozQvC6zhbxMc5AKq_aoaAr7ZEALw_wcB

All I can add is I’ve read a couple of threads on here where people have tried to rebuild these cuna or cupa engines and it has ended badly. One guy never replied again after his rebuild had obviously gone badly wrong. Therefore, I would go 2nd hand unit.

If you look in your account settings there is an ignore user feature. Hope you get it sorted, it does sound like the clutch dragging.

I would take it back to the person who did the mechatronic repairs last month.

I use Opie oils for service parts and oils, currently they have a 20% off sale. Bosch or Mahle are good makes used by manufacturers. https://www.opieoils.co.uk

Unless someone has put different rear brakes on your car than those it was built with, then the new discs are wrong. Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had trouble with brake parts before, including GSF insisting the pads they gave me were correct when they were physically too small. For that reason I tend to pay the premium for genuine parts.

I didn’t have to remove the carrier when I replaced my rear discs recently. But regarding the bolts I would get them from a Skoda dealer.

Could even be the silica bag burst thing. Does the expansion tank say “mit silica” or similar on it ?

I’ve had the same issue last week with cr2025 on my normal (non kessy) keys. Car put the “replace key battery” message on but key was still working ok. I changed it for a new cr2025 which I had that, like yours, was still within lifespan date on the packet. It locked the doors once then didn’t work, I put the old battery back in and that didn’t work even though it had been working perfectly…. Looked on here and read about fitting cr3032 instead. I put a new cr3032 in and it worked but I couldn’t get the case to clip shut, so I bought a new Duracell cr2025 and it worked straight away no issues.

I would repair it and keep going with it, but what about a 2.0 tsi Superb 4x4 estate. If you think the Octavia has space, these are on a different level.

I didn’t know that about vcds. I’ll see what mine has done next time I plug it in.

I test drove a Karoq with act about 6 months ago and it got me interested in how it works because it was regularly going into 2 cylinder mode and I really couldn’t feel the change over at all. Apparently the system closes the valves when the cylinder is in the middle of its exhaust stroke so it is basically half full of exhaust and the piston then pumps up and down easily. It means that the shut down of the 2 middle cylinders is actually in two stages as each one reaches the middle of its exhaust stroke. It “shuts down” one cylinder before the other. When cylinder 2 is halfway through exhaust and it gets its valves closed, cylinder 3 is halfway through compression and does one more power stroke before it shuts down when it reaches the middle of its exhaust stroke. It only seemed to operate under fairly light engine load, as soon as you demand any real power it went back to 4 cylinders. It seems a lot of extra complexity and I wondered how will these changing loads affect the crankshaft long term ?