classic

I guess a lot of the difference would be the random differences of use between vehicles. 190k miles in 6 years 8 months is above average, do you use stop start a lot or disable it or don’t do very much urban driving, there’s so many variables. Someone else might get 10 years but somehow their use is easier on the battery, and whilst you have noticed it only just started many drivers wouldn’t.

Check out the MG4 at 2:10 😀

Sounds like a reasonable possibility.

A good few threads on the Octavia section of Octavia 3 models destroying themselves by fire. No shortage in my experience of jcb fastracs destroying themselves by fire. All vehicles road, rail, water, air, whatever have set on fire. If it’s on fire then the diesel tank will eventually go bang, if it’s petrol the tank will eventually go bang, if it’s electric with an x tens of kw battery that will eventually go bang, jet aircraft will explode. Now, horse and carts, they’re pretty safe fire wise.

It is sad to see a good working car driven into a scrap yard but it looks like you had many good years of reliable use out of it. I did seriously consider buying this off you but I was looking at £1500 max and didn’t want to bid so far under your asking price. Just checked back to see whether it was still available and saw your updates on the ulez scrappage and that is a no brainer if you get £2k plus the scrap value.

😀

Sunak never said it, that was a couple of PMs ago ! The Tories saw that ulez effect at the last by-election and that’s the straw they’ve grabbed.

I thought, ironically, this brings us into line with the eu. Isn’t their new build ban date already 2035 ?

They aren’t cheap ! Check the new price from Skoda first. I needed a new rear light unit and the used prices on eBay were actually more than the price of a new one from the dealer….

I don’t know. The description when I googled the part numbers comes up with the exact same descriptions and up to 04/17 model. There must be some difference and the 10S on one and 16S on the other clearly means something. I think I would be looking for the exact same number on the replacement, unless someone can say one or the other is an updated number and will work ok.

It might not be as straightforward as replacing the led light unit, I believe there is a control unit located somewhere under the headlight which is often the actual problem.

I have watched some of his videos, I’m sure he has said it is leased. He does highlight a number of infrastructure issues and servicing “cons” neither of which you can actually blame the car for. It’s quite amusing to me that, whilst he mercilessly slags the car off at all times, it comfortably conveys him all over the country. Denting the battery requiring a new one is probably equivalent to smashing the sump off an ice car. If he’d hit a block of wood at 70 in a 911 and lost all the engine oil it wouldn’t be cheap.

He leases the Taycan, not sure if that makes him even dumber ?

I agree with you 100%. Only joking about diagnosedan, he’s a genius, I love his videos. Automass is thankfully taking his car to an auto electric guy he knows.

Are you sponsored by diagnosedan Graham 😀 ? That video is going off on a tangent testing a quite different issue, so not much use to automass. I think automass needs to test for a parasitic draw and he asked how to do that and my explanation is what I’d do. I actually don’t think that is going to be his issue but it needs to be ruled out.

You need to get a multimeter with an amp clamp. You can use an ordinary meter but I would use an amp clamp. I’m sure you can buy them for around £20-£30 from somewhere like machine mart or screwfix. Open the bonnet click the bonnet catch closed to fool the car that everything is closed. turn everything off, unplug all accessories including your obd thing. close the doors and move the car key as far away as possible Leave it for 30 minutes connect the multimeter (refer to its instructions) check what current is being drawn. Someone more knowledgeable than me will tell you what is expected or even the actual spec for the car, but I would say 80 to 100 ma or more indicates a problem. If you can find someone with a similar known good car, test that to get a comparison.

This isn’t over yet. An assumption was made by automass back in April 2022 that he needed a new battery and a new battery was fitted. A crank no start problem reoccurred this year and, via the timeline of this thread, he now has another new (albeit slightly different) battery fitted. He has also disconnected the dash cam, at least overnight. His obd thing has recorded an intermittent misfire cyl 3, and something about databus front light. Xman has advised him to measure the current draw with everything switched off. That is definitely the first thing to do to rule out something draining the battery (you need to do this test automass), possibly caused as Xman suggests by interfering with the coding of the light module. My prediction is the starting problem will reoccur and automass will eventually do that check and find there isn’t anything draining the battery.

Hi, I would go to a Skoda dealer for those parts. You might get them second hand, I have used these guys - Silverlake - give them a call and explain what you need https://parts.silverlake.co.uk/find-auto-parts/year/2013/make/SKODA/model/OCTAVIA/?sort=DATE_ADDED&direction=desc

Coolant level suddenly dropped this week, so today I fitted a new water pump and drive belt.

Can they demonstrate the gear lever unit was actually defective ? £1500 for a “could be” seems a lot.

I’ve had 3 of these Octavias, including my current one. This is my own personal opinion but I only want 16” wheels. The ride comfort is way better and the tyres less prone to cuts or puncture and cheaper to replace. 18” I think was an option. You need to drive it and see what you think, it wouldn’t cost a fortune to pick up second hand 16 or 17” wheels for it. I get that it is very subjective and the bigger wheels probably look better but that’s my 10 pence worth. 1.6 tdi with brembo drilled discs - why ? I thought possibly it just had standard brakes which brembo also do but you can see in the picture they are drilled. I mean, they will be good brakes, but what is the point ? If it was me - 18” wheels, brembo brakes, boot spoiler on a 1.6tdi - she’s probably seen some action. Doesn’t mean it isn’t a good car if it checks out and the price is right

2015 1.4 tsi which I run exclusively on supermarket fuel (e10 never used any additives). No issues, plugs changed after 40,000 miles and it was still running ok. I do around 20,000 miles a year. No issues with my previous octavia with same engine.

If it helps, my 1.4 tsi sounds similar to your video. They are a bit tappy with the bonnet up, can’t hear it in the car though.

I did one at a time on my own, but if you get a helper to hold the tailgate like TheClient says it will be a piece of cake.