Athrx

What. No, no, no, no. 340mm front and 310 VENTED rears are for the 280ps petrol model exclusively. I already bought the wrong discs once and i have a 190ps diesel awd. What fit correctly was 312mm vented fronts and 300mm solid rear discs. As far as i know, nothing but the 280ps petrol with twin real exhausts get the uprated brakes

Soo, having recently serviced my dq250 after 40.000 miles, i can say that there was absolutely nothing on the damn thing and i spent the best part of an hour removing the intake and battery tray on mine. The dq381 is supposedly the next generation. I hate to say it but the VW group overlords are probably right on this one. Change just to make sure there's no expensive glitter and definitely more often than 80.000 miles

This week i finally found an original windscreen on ebay from what turned out to be a briskoda member. For whatever reason, the previous owner of my car didn't believe in new wiper blades, leading to lots of scratch marks that made driving at night a challenge on it's own. With the new glass i can finally see properly. Important to note that i did not need a camera calibration. Lane assist, tsr and smart light assist work even better than before. Also the top connector ribbon for the heated screen only needs the dome light cluster prying out gently from the side. The whole plastic piece including the sunglass holder can stay in place

Don't get me wrong i still need neck braces if i tap the gas on boost in low gear, and the reduced understeer + zero wheel slip more than make up for the downsides. It's just how lazy the car feels when it's anywhere under 2000rpm that ruins it. You've only really got 2000-3500rpm to play with, or 4.3k in kickdown

I have the 190 4x4 tdi dsg. I'm not feeling it to be honest. The acceleration and 0-60 time is there but my old fwd fabia with 105ps felt better. I'm also considering a remap

So, there is a very commonly known fault that essentially bricks the memory profiles while leaving all the manual controls alone. This is shown to leave persistent faults for all the axis that failed to norm/standardize, usually the lumbar support up/down and in/out. Well, as it turns out, i found out that through long coding i can tell the module that lumbar support is not installed and all the related faults will clear. THIS WILL MAKE THE LUMBAR SUPPORT STOP WORKING SO MAKE SURE TO LEAVE IT WHERE YOU WANT IT FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE. I'll make further tries later on to complete standardization/norming on these axes but for now i'm convinced it just ain't happening without a new module Fiest open vcds, select the seat memory module, enter long coding and accept experimental coding information Next, skip to byte 18 and 19 and untick "ldw/ldh_motor_installed" for each. Confirm and write the new long code. You should instantly hear a bong from the instrument cluster and you can set new presets by pressing "set", release then press any number. Personalization through kessy matching should also work now To gain back lumbar support controls, enable both again (and lose memory features)

Hmm.. is it a sportline originally? If not, did it just clip into the original bumper?

@JR RSwhat did you do to the bottom black plastic bit? Doesn't look stock and i kinda like it

Buy new bulbs, in the meantime swap the bulbs around and see what happens. I'd say the bulb was gone already and you paid for a worse ballast + labour for whatever reason. Btw, led bulbs are an option in d3s package lately. I got a pair on mine now

I'll happily swap 18's with your 19's if they're an interesting design. With cash contribution of course

Soo, i bought and fit the gasket mentioned earlier. Overall don't even notice at a glance that it's there. Hopefully there's plenty of rain after work this evening. For about £10 i seem to have enough for 2 and a half cars

Yes, orange ramps. Maybe they were reworked at some point? These are right at the limit when climbing on (about 15mm away from inner edge). May be important to note that i have dcc and 4x4. I know dcc sits 10mm lower but also has the rear completely level with the front. For £45 really can't complain

Finally found the time to do an engine and gearbox oil change today. Bought a set of halfords drive-on ramps, ordered a 32mm socket from amazon.. then scrambled on the day to find the gearbox sump plug 14mm allen key and a 24mm socket for the filter. So, keys needed: T25, T40 for skid pan 19mm socket for drain bolt (may need breaker bar) 13 (?) mm socket with extension for filter oil drain (not 100% sure) 32mm filter housing removal Lots of wipes/paper towels For gearbox 14mm allen key for sump plug 8mm allen key for plastic insert 13mm socket to remove battery 24mm socket and some kind of pivoting/joint extension. No need to take air box and battery tray out! Lots of wipes Vas6262 fill hose (find a service kit with it included, don't buy separate) Vcds for temperature monitoring, although if it was done with a hot engine it will be above 40°C in seconds. Also vcds to reset all battery related faults and do service interval reset. Straight away i'm now getting 50mpg just cruising on some 40mph b-roads. Gearbox no longer seems to try to stay inbetween gears when i put my foot down (could feel a bump when it finally decided). Smooth as butter. All together with head scratching and tea from neighbour it took about 3 hours. Not too bad. Dealer wants £600 for this job. Oils and filters come out to £170

Regarding rattles, get yourself a roll of felt tape and keep around in the car. You'll need it. Rattles i've found so far: Button on instrument cluster Crap in the doors (outer side has felt liner, inner side is hard plastic. Tf) Bottom of b pillars, the plastic trim comes unclipped at the bases Rear central console. Creaks over uneven road. Manhandling it a bit around seems to fix it for the season Rear seat bases, clips are one time use apparently Subwoofer side rear seat bolster. Rattles at the top, easy to find playing frequency generator. Wedged a cloth in there Subwoofer side boot panel. Bit of tape on the plastic latch 2 blanking caps on the boot trim that allows the boot latch to go through. Very well hidden, on side towards front of the car, just above hazard triangle storage space. These have been bugging me for the longest time 3'rd brake light plastic cover. Wedge tape in there Door puddle lights from kopacek. The projector ones rattle from speaker vibrations That is all, i think. Being a skoda there will be fresh ones come spring

Yes. The superb is quite good at keeping side windows clean from rain water, except for when it smears off from the windscreen. Seems to be a VW thing in general. Z gasket found on ebay as well here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363733385783?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YMqbpu1oSuS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=umh76dllt9q&var=632951932258&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

Changed spark plugs with iridium tip, coil leads AND coil? Can you trace the wiring for the air pressure sensor and confirm it's all in 1 piece? Does moving it about make the fault go away?

Ebay, make sure it has the code or buy that as well for about £10-15. For skoda this radio is called Columbus, has the colour big screen. Make extra sure it's in the shape that fits your dashboard

That is on by default. Flashing when smart light assist is doing something turns off both the A icon and all parts of the high beam, meaning a second pull is needed to actually flash the high beams in full. All i want is for the blanking rollers to move away and flash the high beam first try

Mine were a bit stuck. If i remember right the drivers side was just a quick look with the phone camera away, while the passenger side took a bit of swearing and taking the bulb out eventually. Both are towards the passenger side and spring loaded

You'll need a rns-510 radio. The default rcd 310 can't do it. You will also lose out on sound quality as only the original model seems to be set up right for the car

If you got projectors (glass ball type thingies) you will have a switch somewhere deep inside the housing that removes the light flick to the left side and makes the headlights roe compliant. They are fairly hard to reach and they're easy to confuse with other sharp bits of metal but they're there!

Is it possible to change smart light assist behaviour? When it's on and beam forming around something, flashing turns it off instead. The fact that most of the time i don't know if it's on or not doesn't help at all

@travshere's the weird bolt pattern.

Once all 4 are done, go through each wire one by one, trying to find the correct slack inside the speaker. From factory they're soldered in such a way that they mostly bend at the ends, so we want to avoid that! It should be able to travel to both extreme ends and kind of arc in the middle. Once that's sorted, solder everything back and measure the resistances Both of mine came up at about 6.6-6.7 ohms. With the previous wire they were at about 15 ohms best case, fluctuating badly with the slightest movement. Last thing to do is to glue everything back. I used gorilla glue because that's the only slightly flexible glue i have around. The correct thing to use would be loctite black tak 4105 plus their activator, both of which are very hard to find with a decent price And now we wait..

Tinsel wire arrived! First stop, decide which way the wire will go. I did it through the speaker, pulled through to the contacts. I found it easier this way because the copper will wick like crazy so it's better to slowly pull until i'm happy everything is tinned but not through the rest of the wire. After that i just cut the slack. Once that's done, leave about 4cm at the other end