Phoenixboy

Personally I'd stick with factory recommendations. Having owed two of these engines. I'd probably change the plugs first, I had a couple fail that were changed within two years, previously. There were no fault codes present, until the misfire became very obvious & also effected the starting. Once changed, the car was back to running very smoothly again. Other issue I've noticed at higher mileage is that of coil packs breaking down, too. Also having my plugs replaced resolved 90% of the cold running jerkiness I was also experiencing from this engine for a while.

My current 2019 Ocatvia 1,5tsi act is not noisy at anytime, neither was my previous 1.5tsi within normal running conditions. My current wagon has covered 62k, uses no oil so far & runs very smoothly, as most 4 cylinder engines, do. My previous 1.5tsi ran slightly lumpy for a while, slowly became worse, as two of the four plugs were breaking down, once replaced, 100% resolved it. Coilpacks would also make the car run a bit lumpy, too. There were no fault codes initially, until the cold starting became effected. I've found the 1.5tsi to generally run a lot smoother than the 1.0tsi I once owned, too. That being a 3 cylinder engine.

Well I've just rung a Skoda main dealer parts department up, they confirmed that the rear m14 headed carrier bracket bolts were reusable, they reasue them. It's the front slide bolts that you could replace at £2.65 plus vat each. Some after market pads come with them, anyway. I've also bought some medium strength locktight, which I'll be using on all the bolts when I start the job. Just bought the pads and discs, too. I'll do them once I have a decent day to do them and I'm off work.

Yes it is with my discs, as I'd prefer not to🤣 It's to do of the depth of the disc, the part of the disc that fits over the hub would be deeper that yours, reason you can't just slip it off with the bracket still in place. Annoying, but true. I'll take some more pictures when I get around to replacing them again.

I had mine replaced under an dealership extended warranty. Started off like yourself, then completely stopped. I checked myself to see if there was a 12v feed it it, there was. If I didn't have the warranty I'd have replaced it myself, seems an relatively easy job to replace. Common fault, apparently.

Could someone confirm my torque settings for the stretch bolts (caliper to carrier), are 35nm for my car & the bigger, carrier to wheel housing bolts are 90mn + 90d? 2019 1.5tsi. This came in handy for general torque settings, inc caliper to carrier settings (35nm), couldn't find carrier to wheel housing settings though. https://tighttorque.com/cars/skoda/octavia-3

Just priced up a set of pads, discs inc the 4 Streeeeetch bolts, £60 all in. So it looks like I'll be doing them again, myself within the next two weeks. Rung a local independent they wanted £270 to do the same job, buy using pagid parts. Skoda charge £400, gulp, last time I checked. I'm hoping it'll be a little bit easier next time round for me. Plus I've just bought a 24" breaker bar, also use a torque wrench, too. Didn't want the breaker bar too long as I'll be working from the underside of my car.

Just for info, a lot of pads come with the stretch bolts, makes life a little easier.

Thanks for the info, 100% on mine you have to take the carrier off to remove the discs as they're too deep. I don't suppose you know the part numbers for those stretch bolts I need to replace? They're a pig to remove from the ground, as I needed to go through the coil springs to get to them. They're even tighter on the passenger side rears, as the exhaust back box was also in the way. Either have to jack the car lower or higher to get an extension bar through the back of the spring to get to the caliper bracket bolts. Fronts look easy, in comparison. It would be much easier to do them from a lift, as I think you'd have a better angle to get them off using a toggle socket and longer breaker bar. I'm starting to put myself off, I could get them replaced for £200'ish at a local'ish independent using Brembo or similar quality discs and pads. Labour rates are a bit cheaper up north. As they don't fit the cheaper stuff. I'm getting too old for laying on my back over the winter replacing rear brakes🤣

Also should I replace or reuse the rear caliper stretch bolts, if I need to replace them, anyone have their part number? Thanks.

Ironically I have the same job to do on my wagon (same engine & spec), as I did the last set by feel only. Anyone know what the torque wrench settings would be for me to do this job again? As the discs & pads are just about shot, the dealership gave it a full mot, but they came up as an advisory. Thanks.

Side wall cracking does not seem to be uncommon now with modern tyres, unfortunately. Maybe due to manufacturers using less silica within the production process. I've previously experienced this with continental tyres, also a current set of Michelin energy savers that are on another vehicle within our household, which I'll be replacing soon. They've had no more than average abuse, tyre pressures have always been correct. I've also heard of lots of other people with different brands talking about the same issue. I'll probably drop to mid range tyres next, see little point spending a lot on premium brands if they don't last.

A low noise rated tyre would be around 68-69db, then a lot is to do with interior noise insulation, too. I've owned many, many cars from the 80's onwards. My current Octavia is certainly not the noisiest car I've owned by far. It also has relatively soft suspension, which I like, certainly more so on my estate version or seemingly so. You can hear more noise coming from the tyres driving over say a concrete road, compared to a tarmac one. When I choose a tyre I tend to go for the exact same noise & load rating that was fitted from factory. I tend to fit them within fours if I can or at least in two's, across the same axle. Your tyres are relatively narrow, so choosing a wider tyre should create more noise, having more friction on the road, too. You could try swapping your front two over to your back two tyres, to see if that also makes a difference. I used to fit winter tyres over the winter periods on a regular basis, I've also used all season tyres, too. Have a full set of summers on at the moment, when I wear them out I'll then decide what to do. GPF's are generally more reliable than DPF's within my opinion & most people that drive cars with GPF's would experience few if any problems. Yes to the North East of England.

I have 4 summer tyres fitted, two match, are Goodyear, other two are a toyo and and hankook. Car came with them you see, all very quiet. I've had winter tyres on different cars within the past that were noisy, probably down to their softer compound and their tread sipes. Although decent all season tyres now are relatively quiet. I wheel bearing noise I'd say was more of a droning type noise, if you are unsure take it to an independent for them to give you their opinion. I've never had an issue with a gpf yet, although most of my journeys are not short. Regards to the "C", lockdown there wasn't one for me I worked through it, as I work in the care industry.

Sounds like tyre noise to me, my Octavia is generally quiet at all speeds, but I have summer tyres fitted at the moment. I've used winter tyres within the past, they tend to be nosier. Although if you say fitted a premium all season tyre, they're generally good for all year round use. Width palys a part, too. I have 205/55 16 tyres fitted as factory standard to my car, I prefer a deeper tyre wall as it also helps with comfort & pothole resilience.

I've owned a few GPF equipped cars in the past, never noticed a regen occur, although I don't do a lot of short journeys. At least if my light were to come on, I'd know what to do. I've also owned a few dpf equipped cars in the past, I normally new when a regen was occurring, kept driving until they'd finished. GPF's should be less problematic in the long run.

Good to know, I'd be amazed if anyone ever needed to regen one of those, as generally they're done passively. I tend to let the momentum of my transmission slow down my car where possible, presumably when the GPF would then be cleaned. I'm very pleased I don't own a dpf now though, that's a different ball game. Not that I ever had an issue with a dpf equipped car, owned 4. Just need to drive them correctly.

There's a good chance it'll have some digital record. I can see that @ApertureSha kindly offered to let you know. I'm missing one service on mine, but next to impossible to track down as it was outside of the warranty period with no digital record then, until the Skoda main dealer had just serviced it for me, recently prior to me buying it.

Check that one of your doors or sills were not half full of water first, giving you the illusion of the swooshing tank, when it's one of those that could be swooshing. Not manufacturer specific, but I've experienced this on a few vauxhalls in the past. Resolved by checking the door & sill drain holes. It could also as you've suggested be the fuel in the tank.

I do know someone that can weld plastic, in fact that's what he specialises in, as he has his own body shop. He'll be a bit further south for you (North East).

I own a 1.5tsi ACT engine, it does idle slightly higher from a cold start, then drops back a bit. It's generally a very smooth engine within hot and cold conditions & it always changes gears smoothly, being an auto (dsg). Mine is a 19 plate with 62k on the clock. It won't regen, as you own an petrol engine or so you've stated.

A lot of cars out there have had previous bumps, hidden stories, then been repaired, not recorded. Go with your gut instinct. Some colours are harder to match than others, especially red within my experience. Then you have to consider the age of the car you are buying, price, too. Make sure all the panels align up. Then obviously have an hpi check done. I'd also check the bottom of the wheel well, make sure it's dry and is not sticky. As my previous Octavia MK3 hatch had an ongoing intermittent water leak into the boot, which I think I sorted prior to selling it on. Wasn't screen washer related, either. Not forgetting it's an used car, won't be perfect, but at least it should look tidy. My current MK3 wagon is as dry as a bone within that department.

Just upgraded my h7 dipped bulbs with these, not that my original set were that bad, a bit extra won't harm. I've had a lot worse, previously owning mainly vauxhalls. £20 for the pair of bulbs, can't grumble.

Its a very easy job, took mine out yesterday to replace my 12v power socket fuse, as I wanted to put some air within my tyres. I also managed to unhook the damper arm and put it back on again without taking the side panel off. Just need a long narrow screwdriver to do so. I also hooked the damper arm on fully extended, prior to pushing the bottom clips in. You can fit the screwdriver down the left-hand side of the glove box whilst its open to unhook it. Once the glovebox is out you can see the pollen filter cover at the right hand side. Maybe I just got lucky with my technique lol.

Good to know.