lewiswal47

Hello, I used to run the same Eibach Pro kit on my 2017 Fabia. So, I’m not sure if there will be any differences between facelift and not but I don’t think so. See the attached photo of arch gap on my fabia. It didn’t have much clearance at all. Not enough to get alignment equipment on the tyre, and caused scrubbing and uneven wear. Now granted, My shocks were pretty knackered. But, I then upgraded to some Koni Special Actives, And suffered the same issue. So I reverted back to stock springs. B8 shocks are specifically for lowered vehicles, But any shock will do. I’ve heard B8’s can be very hard on the ride quality. So judge is based on your own car usage. Hope this helps. They’re 17” Alloys, stock, with 25mm spacer.

Ahhh im glad it worked for you! Maybe I got a dodgy harness. I also have a hi-lo behind the unit but just about managed to squeeze in the harness. I’m glad I fit the OEM camera though, as the built in washer is very handy in the winter months

I did actually try this camera once before, Was an easy install given the custom harness and wire (although, very little space behind the headunit for it to fit). But I found that for some reason it prevented my USB for apple carplay from working. Did this happen to you?

Updated currently struggling to insert images

Oh sorry!! wish I saw the forum sooner 😅 The one I bought is no longer available but this is the exact same; https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ez7x342 It’s OEM for the windscreen washers, I didn’t care about that and just cut/snipped it to the length I needed! If you don’t have any way of coding, check out the VCDS Map on the forum, People willing to help put their location on so you can ask them if they’re local to you! ☺️ Your page says you’re from West cumbria though? im south cumbria, so if you need a hand give us a shout 👍

The camera I used was 6V0827566, and can be found here; https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGsVXXg it came with the wiring look, and by taking a guess this is an oem kit, i’ve tried other aliexpress rvc’s and the cameras were poor. This one’s really good. Yeh, Coding is necessary to tell the headunit the cameras there, do you have access to OBDEleven/ VAGcom etc?

The Y connector is - 1J0 955 873 D The connections you need are Female: 5J0 955 871 A Male: 5J0 955 871 B I usually buy my parts from LLLParts, They take a while to arrive but they’re cheap and brand new You’ll need 4 of each, But I bought extras just incase I lost/broke some! I tried Aliexpress parts first and just, don’t bother 🤣 The only thing I did use from Aliexpress was the hose itself, It was so much cheaper; I just trimmed it as required, You can tap into the washer line in the C-Pillar on the left hand side

Did you manage to find the wiring loom in the end?? I retrofit the reversing cam myself, including the plumbing for the washer, so if you need any help feel free to reach out

AFAIK the swap has never been done, Only seen 1.4TSI Swaps. But, From what i've heard, a 1.8TSI swap is entirely possible given a full donor car is available, also aftermarket immobilizer i think too, so I dont see why the 2.0 wouldn't fit.

I actually just did this job today, My motor started clicking a few months ago and I only just got time to do so. I didn't purchase a new motor, I fixed* my current one. I found that, somehow, it had popped it's casing off. The black cog seen below was the culprit. Upon repositioning the black cog correctly, amongst some cleaning and greasing, I put the casing back on and found two of the clips that hold the casing on were loose and let it pop out easily, so I stuffed some tissue behind them to help hold the casing firmly shut. I then spent what felt like an eternity trying to put the motor back in the correct position. Note when returning the motor into place, the correct positioning for the cogs, and note the 2 arrows indicating the "key"; *This diagram is from a RHD Model, so its flipped. *I dont know how long the fix will last, Maybe ill need to purchase a new motor. But for now, its working

I have a 2017 Monte Carlo, 1.2 TSI. I suspect the MC & SE L’s will all have the correct BCMs for cruise, given the base level of tech you get with them. SE and S on the other hand is where it’ll get tricky. Colour edition comes with Cruise (but no speed limiter) as default.

The kufatec retrofit website only states; On-board power supply control unit with part number 6C0 937 085 X must be replaced (X stands for any letter) From this, I gather than any BCM 086 or above would support the CC. But I cannot confirm for definite. My BCM is 089 D and definitely does.

I can’t remember the exact BCM part numbers that support it, I’ll have to try dig for them, but generally if the vehicle already had a speed limiter and has front assist, it’ll support it. Really though, The skoda dealer should’ve checked this…

When I went to my dealer for the job, I paid for stalk + coding altogether. Unfortunately, they fitted a faulty stalk which made my high beams not work, but they refused to accept this and put it down to incompatibility. I fitted my own stalk and everything worked fine, they refunded me and apologised that my “vehicle isn’t compatible”. As long as your BCM supports CC, you could order a new product yourself for them to fit. Part Number I used was 5E0 054 800

Apologies for the delayed response, I've had a very busy few days. AFAIK this is not possible. Windows should be powered via Fuse 30 "Power windows, light switches, reverse light switches, control unit for air conditioning system, control unit for park assist, exterior mirror, power feed for center button strip, power feed for side button strip, interior mirror" which is an ACC switched. Its really annoying, I know. Its especially annoying that models with rear windy windows dont have one push open/close! Simply clever.

B version is for vehicles with just speed limiter, avoid this for cruise control 😊

stalk parts are as follows I used 6C0 953 501 P on my Fabia and it works fine. It has the MODE button to switch between cruise and speed limiter, and no buttons on the right hand stalk for the computer. 6C0 953 501 P / 6C0 953 513 F Suitable for vehicles with cruise control and speed limiter. (no on board computer controls) When using part 6C0953513F IGI instead of 6C0953501P IGI, it is also necessary to replace the mounting plate (6C0953223) and the slip ring under the steering wheel (6C0959653). 6C0 953 513 C / L Control levers under the steering wheel for vehicles with multi-function indicator and cruise control (no speed limiter, onboard computer controls for vehs without multifunctional steering wheel) 6C0 953 513 G Suitable for vehicles with speed limiter & cruise control, and onboard computer controls

I may be wrong but, I am fairly sure on the Mk2 Fabia you do not need the dealership to do the coding, You can just do it with VCDS. You’ll need to fit the stalk (which, has different part numbers to the Mk3 stalks) and run a wiring harness from it to the ECU, then just code with VCDS 😊

The coding for CC is done via SWaP/FeC and can only be done at VWAG approved locations such as the dealership. If its other things you need coding via VCDS I could potentially help next time im up that way.

I realise I have not updated my build log in a long long time, so I thought it best be time to write up all the changes made since, and some exciting upcoming things. RETROFIT: Cruise Control - 27/05/23 - 31/07/23 Retrofitting of Cruise Control, Attempted by Skoda Dealership, cocked up, Rectified by myself fitting a new stalk. Guide here. MODIFICATION: Exhaust - 01/10/23 Nice new res-back exhaust fitted by my local place. Essentially only a backbox delete.IMG_5946.mov RETROFIT: Automatic Headlights - 7/7/2024 Retrofit of the basic (8N4) Auto Headlights, using Solar Sensor 6V0 907 451A in the dashboard, 5E0 941 341 D WHI light switch (with auto function + both fogs), 1K0 972 704C Connector for sensor, 000 979 009E Pins x6 and 4 meters of wiring. Massive thanks to @JGrindel for the help with this, and the below mentioned camera. RETROFIT: Reversing Camera w/ washer lines - 10/7/24 This one was a huge pain, but I got it working in the end. 6V0 827 566 G is the camera for the hatch, I got it from Aliexpress! Some dont come with the washer hole. Plumbing was a real faf, and I cut the line at the C pillar on the nearside. I used Y-Piece 1J0955873D, Connectors Female 5J0955871B x2, Connectors Male 5J0955871A x2. Wiring loom came with the camera, I ran the cables ( except for the ground, which i grounded nearby ) down the offside of the boot lid into the C pillar there, one wire split off to the reverse light wire, then I fit the video signal wires into my headunit, and 12V supply to a fuse. MODIFICATION: Lowering Springs - 18/8/24 Fitment of EIBACH Pro-Kit E10-81-010-04-22, dropping the fab by 45mm on the rear and 30mm front. aswell as some wheel spacers from Precision, 20mm rear and 15mm front. SERVICE: New Clutch + Turbocharger - 04/04/25 - 06/04/25 Quite the mega project on this long weekend as I set to fit a new Clutch, and whilst I had a lot of the car dissasembled I fit my recently refurbished turbocharger from a 1.4TSI (150hp). The guide for turbo refurbishment can be found here! I opted for a LuK Clutch kit 622333600 which had clutch, pressure plate & release/throwout bearing. I chose to change the clutch due to slippage when giving it some proper torque, so thought its time was near. On close inspection of the clutch, it seemed okay, so I estimate the failure to be due to springs losing tension or the throwout bearing being too dirty and not providing enough pressure. UPCOMING:MODIFICATION: Polyurethane Bushes & Brake cooling guides - TBD I was due to fit these Powerflex bushes at the same time as the Shocks, however the shocks have such a lead time I'll do them seperate. I've gone for Powerflex's Polyerethane lower control arm bushes and anti roll bar bushes. I'm hoping this will also help with the awful squeeking from the stock lower control arm bushes, especially in winter... Along with these, I also found a guide by wirer (here) that retrofits air guides onto the lower control arm to cool the brake disks. Parts are 6R0615447 and 6R0615448, you'll also need 6x N0385491 rivets to hold them in. Whether they make a difference im not sure, but I tagged them onto an LLLParts order I needed to make for £4.69 per side. SERVICE: New Shock Absorbers - TBD My shocks are misting and feel tired, so i've opted for some new ones. I've gone for Koni Special Actives. PN for the kit is VAG-SA1233. Lead time on the shocks is 5-6 weeks, so I expect to have these fitted early june. RETROFIT: Black Interior Ceiling - TBD Well, after much debate i've bitten the bullet and will commit to turning my interior ceiling black. Following wirer's very helpful guide (here) I ordered all the parts necessary and am awaiting arrival. The largest issue will be the sunroof blind, as I was not paying £280 for that just in black. I will remove it at some point and bodge job it. Perhaps cut some new material and feed it in, and dye the handles. We'll see RETROFIT: RLS, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror and FLA (Front Light Assist) - TBD A rather adventurous challenge that i'll document in a seperate guide, however I will be attempting to successfully install a RLS Rain Light Sensor 5Q0 955 559 C, alongside an auto-dimming rear view mirror (From a Passat) 3G0 857 511 AE 9B9 With front facing camera to enable Front Light Assist. I will NOT be changing my windscreen for this, and will either be a) Removing my current mirror mount and scraping off the black ceramic paint, to then fit the correct mount (4M0 845 543) for both RLS and Mirror. or option b) Dont scrape off the black ceramic paint, Fit the mount anyway (to hold just the mirror) and relocate the sensor to elsewhere on the windscreen, perhaps to the left of the wire trim from the mirror so its out of my view. I dont care about the passengers view! 😁

By OCA i’m just referring to the One Click Apps offered by OBDeleven. The apps are just submitted by the community to the developers and they publish them - It’s unlikely OBDeleven have a fleet of every VWAG vehicle to test them on so they’ll just get released I’d imagine; and also be copied/pasted from similar platforms as an “it might work” I suppose if there’s nothing you really need to code then you don’t actually need to know it, or as you say, learn the VCDS way of life. But if you need specifics somebody here will (usually) always know how to do so! Providing there’s the ability to resort the coding done by the apps there shouldn’t be any lasting damage caused to any components! ☺️

Interesting, thank you! Ill take a read. I have the PRO subscription and as such I do all the coding and adaptations myself, however I did try one One Click App maybe 2 year ago for "Urban Pace Joker Lights" and it epically failed, just threw up some light errors on my dash - so i just reverted it. I've never heard anybody say to me a OCA has ruined their car. EDIT: The issue is that cars of the same model can have different variaties of everything, but usually the same BCM so the coding would exist and be accepted by it. Most OCA's will specify what you require for it to work but some don't - so a person unknowledged on their car may perhaps use an app for comfort opening of their sunroof, when they infact dont have one. But the app'll work!

Interesting, I was told by somebody from Skoda that the button will change this - obviously this may not be the case it seems. I would have thought that when stop/start is disabled the car may allow the battery to charge more fully, because it no longer needs to maintain a buffer for restart events. I have often found better battery charge when driving with S/S Disabled compared to when its enabled (but not functioning); perhaps these are just coincidence? I'll take some readings later through obd11 to see if the voltage really is any different with it on vs off!

Just want to add to this great suggestion; A good long drive with the start/stop disable button illuminated orange. When the disable button is actived it overrides any and all "smart" systems controlling battery levels and will just, simply charge. Up until last year I had the same battery from factory in, which started to fail. It started setting off my car alarm in the dead of the night, yet the car would start fine. The battery can indeed do mysterious things..

Hello, If the light works why replace it, do below coding Coding is as follows; Unit 09 Central Electronics - Adaptation Each Leuchte channel is a lamp in your car, find appropriate one (Can take trial and error) Generically; Odd Number = Right, Even Number = Left. BLK = Blinker / Indicator BR = Brake NL = Nebel (Fog Lamp) SL = Running Lights KZL = License Lamps RFL = Reversing Lamps ABL = Dipped Beams FL = High Beams so, Leuchte20BR LA70, (Ignore the end part) would be the Left brake light. If it helps find, go into the channel you think it is, set Light Function A to Aktiv 100% and code, see if the lamp illuminates. Once you've found the light you need, you want to change channel Type Of Load to an appropriate setting. For example, my LED indicators are set to "LED Blinkleuchten", for others you can just use AllgemeineLEDmitOpenLoadDiagnose. I believe this stands for roughly "LED light without diagnosing" so it shouldnt show up errors. Theres also "LEDKleinleistungohneOpenLoadDiagnose". Just try them, if it still throws the error try another. I've used cheap, expensive, mid tier LEDs in my car and they can be so variable, its trial and error really. Hope this helps