Shuggyboatsuperb

If you get clicking or a light clunk from the driveshaft when reversing slowly while turning or manouvering into a parking space with a good degree of steering lock (especially if under load such as on an incline) - then it could very probably be a driveshaft joint. Once worn they can clunk over small road bumps as well.

If not battery or its connection, maybe a Random intermittent earthing problem somewhere??

Maybe theyve just “ rounded up” what they actually used to the nearest full litre increment above for billing - thats 4 litres chargeable whether they used just 3.1 or up to 3.9 litres??

I have also read or heard that the clever little silicon chip changes or varies the “parking” position of the wipers at times, supposedly to avoid some type of wear at one position. And what you have noticed is indeed normal. When I first got this car, it was sort of amusing to watch the wiper arm move itself down under the bonnet line when switching off 😃

Just reset the TPMS through the settings menu after fitting the spare wheel, and with the very similar overall diameter you have it will be fine!

Nah, not yet

Diesel fuel filter is officially 72 k miles /6 years but no harm doing it every 3 or 4 years or so, especially since its easy to do. There are several variants, there should be part code numbers painted/ printed on the side of the housing so make sure you get the right filter insert compatible for your housing number.

ET40. Cast into the rear of one of the spokes.

The 3VO601025 is the wheel model ( Stratos 17 inch in this case) and the final letter C in the listing I believe refers to the colour ( silver). The other thing to look for a match is the offset (ET40). Meaning 40mm. This is stated in the ebay description

The part number (the 3v0——) and offset etc. will be cast onto the reverse side of the “spokes” if you can take one of your wheels off to check.

Looks like a decent wheel. Not many for sale ( I was lucky and managed to get two the same for fitting winter tyres a few years ago also from eBay). I guess your aware a full size wheel/tyre will raise your boot floor a half inch to an inch so will need some padding under it, round the edges? Several old threads cover it in detail

Same car model, driven steadily. Mainly major A roads, long runs, minimal town/ city. Originals lasted only 22k, 3 years, then massive rusty patches and pads wearing badly. Got brembo discs and pads on special offer at the time from carparts in motion on ebay I seem to remember, theyve done 26k miles so far and practically unworn. They do develop a little surface rust if left undriven for a few days in the rain but less than the originals and soon clears off. Despite some folks slagging off Brembo, for your driving style I think theyll be fine and certainly better than originals.

Sure Ive read that these are recommended, but not used myself: https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/

wrong thread !

As above - Exactly right, a theoretical 6mm wheel/tyre diameter difference ~ a 3mm difference in your tread depth

That would be a bargain for a 4 and 1/2 year old car, rather than paying a small fortune for a new / newer one. And the best thing is you already know its history and you like it. If looked after it will serve - and last- well.

Well I will continue to have a tiny smear of copper lube on the threads. With totally dry bolts from new, if left dry long term, I find the bolts/ threads will somewhat slightly corrode and stick. What I mean by sticking is that when tightening to torque, the bolts will stick for a moment then creak or crack and “ jump” a good few degrees. Makes it difficult to be sure they are at the same or correct final torque. With one tiny smear of lube initially ( generally no need to repeat for several years) its a smooth “transition” to full torque and I trust the bolts are all equally to the same setting. Very much one of the principles in the article Leolito posted. By the way, handbook states 140 Nm ( for facelift mk3 at least), not 120.

Same here, even maybe 6-7 miles for water gauge to temperature ( at 10 deg C ambient), if going really steady with no hills.

Wind noise couldnt be from the rhs dash air vent could it? The one to the right of the steering wheel close to the door? When mine is shut or just slightly open it often whistles. Need to be at least half open to stop the slight whistle

Yup, vent hole both sides. Same battery - I had removed the red shipping plug from the vent hole, positive side ( to front of car)when I fitted the battery - but only now ( after reading your question) realised there was a black plug in the negative side vent hole so have popped that out as well! (The Yuasa image shows the vent on the negative side with no shipping plug present)

I doubt you would notice any difference. I have used XL (98) winter tyres on the front axle and felt no difference in terms of handling/ sidewalll stiffness. On another car I had previously replaced the skinny spacesaver spare with a full sized wheel and a spare tyre that happened to be XL rated - and when used, felt no difference to the standard load tyre it replaced for a long journey home

So big question now bearing in mind that odd boot wiring- do the original factory towbar electrics all work ? Good luck, hope they do.

Mine also - makes at least 3 ! Like that since new, drains off nicely when you wash the bonnet? 😄

Lots of info in this thread for same symptom, hope its useful:

Well, like the linked post, mine has non- matrix LED headlights and there is NO such function in the light menu settings to change for continental driving. ( 2020 SE post facelift model) So still looking for the solution.