leolito

I hope he still does because I still have not gotten around to ask him to do one for me 🤪

Well, mine is a benzin, I decided to "watch" the level of the coolant and underneath the car once in a while ... if I see signs of dropping level or losing, will address the pump matter. Same for the DSG, there are no guarantees of how, or how long it will last... If you like the car, go for it. For sure you need always a good service/workshop to address any issues.

That should be the last version with the 4x4. I think the water pump problem never went away. The 381 boxes have some issues, look at the topic in this section. Ideally, you should have a full service history on these cars.

I remembered this the other day, when I tried my first "planned" pre-heating and obviously it did NOT work. Strange because I stored it, and when I turned off the car, the aux heater light stayed on a few seconds, and I took this as indication Luckily I had sometime for some extra loading so I put it manually on but I will have to investigate. Before this, I've started it few times on manual, no problems. I also will try to load the Skoda app and see what happens ...

Aperture, how did it go with the areaview setup?

Sorry, I neglected to read properly you had already gone for a new battery. Then you need to go circuit by circuit to determine which stays 'awake' and drains battery. You should get a good tester to measure mA, close/lock the car - remember to flick the switch of the bonnet, and measure ... after some minutes the car should go to 'sleep' and draw should be minimal, if not, something is up ... If is something you do not feel confident to do, try to look for a "old time" auto electrician ... I have a fella that has saved me more than once, also on modern vehicles! Good luck!

Wasn't my idea to bring this up for a question only, I owe the crowd a long update but I am short on time ... I have a very bothering "jump" start from time to time, like a Diesel, where the car shakes on the very first ignition, then settles as normal in its idle regime. This either on cold, or hot starts, not all the time, but randomly. I will take it to service but any hints as what to expect? I am about to hit the 50k km mark, last 13k km by me, 95% highway/out of the city .... Done only the Racechip throttle, but I doubt this plays a part. Also the DSG jumping gears is becoming extremely bothering, but will have the dealer "deal" with it first, before trying anything on my own. Still a great car, but ....

I think most cars respond well to a mild tune, at any stage of life, but if you want to go with more invasive actions, you will put more strain on powerplant and drivetrain and therefore you should assess their condition beforehand, and with a trustable specialist not just some youtuber tuner with a laptop. I have many friends with tuned cars with many thousands of km, some have no issues, some had catastrophic failures. No recipe bulletproof for this, moment you start to play, you do upset the balance .... A tuned car for daily will also impact comfort, consumption, "discretion" if is an issue - case in point, louder exhaust, and quality of the maintenance - brakes, oils, all need to be upgraded as well. All is fine as long as weighted in, I've played this for years now I prefer not to bother, and as EnterName put it above, have a toy which if you break is on you.

Well, you could always start by the simplest thing, which is simply your battery is about to die. The fact tht is 3 yr old is irrelevant, the quality of these components have dropped considerably. My own car has sometimes a longer than expected cranking after several days (I do not daily) and I take this as a symptom of age. Have the battery checked properly from an auto electrician service, not Skoda, and evaluate. You will have time to get into the more complicated things later ....

If I remember first developed by the mighty Silver Star for the W126 S-Klasse, if I remember right ... Spare a few moments and watch from 4.35, actually if you want to watch it all, it gives a beautiful insight of the meaning of the harmony between "engineering, design, function", a large part of which I consider now lost. Well, I am still waiting to see if I can find a way to bring a couple those from Russia ... someday, when they realize how futile and fruitless this exercise has been, pity for all involved.

JR, wouldn't splicing and add another consumer to that line throw some error code because of the extra load? I had this happening on another car and I am wary ... I also would like to add a light bar, I am happy with the standard lights but I also have long dark non-marked roads ...

Aperture, I think my car has this fitted, I can see the car from above and select each camera for detailed view - I am at my parents' and had to use the right side to see some junk my Dad left on the side of the garage, for example ... However I have no idea about how to extract the dataset for you. Tomorrow I need to use the car and I have the VCDS with me. PM with your detail need or send me your phone and we can chat through other means faster than this, come to be necessary. Will be happy to help ☺️

Thanks will look into it ... 😉 And I am sure there is worse, I had a neighbour with an MMT-equipped Yaris which behaved pretty much as you well described, kangaroo-jerking box... still, I wish it was smoother, but I will go first into checking its condition. Other mate my mate took me around in his very mint P38RR, with its outdated and archaic 4-spd ZF slush box, but there is nothing, nothing disrupting in the ride, the gears change effortlessly and without any bumps or jerks. What a pleasure ...

I do not think is dramatic, provided you have some experience with wiring. I fear more having to take apart panels, and dreadful clips that break, that kind of stuff ...

I share your pain, I am planning to do something similar. Back a few years ago, I've added two extra lights to the boot of my RRP38, by tapping into the connection for the tailgate lights, that way, when I open the tailgate, 4 lights will go on instead of the two - the position of the OE lights is in the tailgate as well, like in the Superb. For this though, you will have to plan to take the panels off and think where to cut a hole for the lights ... Alternatively, and much more in line with the originality of the car, would be to restore the 'simply clever' approach and retrofit the lamp/torch which some dimwit thought it was an excellent idea to remove from the standard, or even accessories' list. This will give you the option to increase illumination and at the same time have a mobile lamp in addition to your phone or whatever you use. The bases are available and color coded, and also the connectors. You do need to play with some wires to bring power to the area, obviously. As for the torch itself, you can buy it directly or discuss with ApertureS to get an "uprated" torch lamp - I know I will do so, when I will have a little more time to take care of this ....

i do as travs above, or use the paddles. Overall, after a few months and over 12k km I must say I am finding the DSG, together with the poor damping, among the most disappointing things in this car. Now the suspension can be tuned/fixed, but the DSG ... this is my first car with this type of transmission, I am familiar with all types of autos for over twenty years now ... and I do not think is the top of the systems .... If doable, I would seriously consider to toss the DSG and fit a auto with TQ in a heartbeat. Will try first to ... what was it? Calibrate it? Adjust it? Something like that ...

Thanks for the heads' up, I actually did lost it as I was busy with other things ... pity we will wait. Good for your positive impressions, obviously is the way to go. Report on fuel later on ... tks

I am on the same boat ... I like the option of a plug-in since it seems less problematic, albeit being less tailored to the specific engine, but besides JB4 I am also wondering about Racechip or DTE. For now, I am still wondering what to do ...

The other day I had to replace the battery in wife's car and to avoid the hassle of recording, I decided, first time in my life, to use the "connect leads to another battery" method. Besides a lot of extra cursing and manouvering because of the leads' clamps in the way, so moving sideways and whatnot, when I finally managed to put the thing in its place and tighten everything, I went to start the car and I noticed I must have man-handled one clamp and lost contact and the effort was useless. 🤪😁 Moreover, only the trip and clock were reset, but the radio kept all the stations! 😆

I was going to recomment this course of action, which seems the most adequate to find out really how to end the call ... 🤪 I could also suggest you stop talking/responding, and providing you do not breath loudly like Darth Vader, you will then "force" (no pun intended!) the other party to stop the call and then clear the area. Problem solved! Obviously you need NOT to pick up the subsequent call from the same person ... 😁 Simply clever, it said?

Beautiful color, it was among my favorite options but could not find a suitable one ...

Impossible to say, you should inquiry in its maintenance records to at least make sure it has been properly serviced so far. They should be able to provide a thick record of service bills ...

Well, we are both technically minded and this is an interesting case, which I am sure he would have jumped at it .... that is why I recommended if you have in the vicinity a specialized Webasto service to go see them, you can get a second opinion and more in depth .... My neighbours' service gets many VAG cars redirected from the official dealer when they cannot fix it or just raise their hands .... While the Superb is my first car with built-in aux heater, I've had at least another 4 heaters which I've bought second hand, made the circuit for them, tested them and ...believe it or not I've sold the cars - and afterwards the heaters - before mounting them ... now I've got somewhere still the last one, a petrol one, which if i get my hands on a Landie I fancy I will convert it to Diesel and perhaps finally I will succed .... 🤪 The temp sensor could very well be the culprit. You could have electrical circuit hit-and-miss failure, for example corrosion on the connecting plug which give untable connection, same could happen to the 12V to the circulation pump .... I think for the temp sensor you need again to remove the heater.

Sorry I mistook this for the door puddle, on the bottom of the door card. Sorry for the confusion!

You could pop it out and see if it looks like water went in or something of the kind. In any case they are replaceable, and upgreadable also!