leolito

I guess is not hot news, except for a few hotheads? A few links ... https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/skoda/superb/364117/new-skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-packs-porsche-performance-sensible-estate https://www.drive.com.au/news/skoda-builds-the-ultimate-sleeper-superb/ https://www.carscoops.com/2024/08/skodas-one-off-superb-sleeper-edition-is-a-wolf-in-sheeps-clothing-with-470-hp/ https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/skoda-superb-sleeper-edition-brings-470bhp-and-chassis-overhaul https://www.motoringresearch.com/car-news/skoda-superb-estate-sleeper-edition/ I think in these pages there have been far more 'tuned' vehicles, but is really nice to see effort dedicated to an outgoing model! 🤩 Some sort of Stage II car? Opinions, what you think? A pal from italy mentioned why not slap the 2.5 and DSG from the RS3 instead .... I reply: "not for the czech poor brother of the family, of course" 😁

Sorry for keep being off topic, but to close the matter above ... today I've solved the A/C issue on the Audi. Time ago, my associate (mechanic) replaced the HVAC controller as it had a failure, he wouldn't bother dissassembling it so he replaced it directly, fishing from the bin another one. As the car was a project in waiting, I had no way to check on that until few weeks ago, when I finally got the A/C radiator and piping replaced. The A/C panel he used is a '95, incompatible with the car which is a '97 (different compressor). Now I am looking for the right part ... he washed his hands on the issue. Once again, never underestimate the matter at hand, especially if more hands have passed before you ... 🤪

The sleep package came on my car, it was something I really wanted and was enough lucky to get it. It is indeed rare, I have seen it only in few cases in cars advertised for sale. When I was in dealings still to get the car, I researched the option to retrofit and unless you find a cars for parts is prohibitive. Dealer told me also forget to order as it was a factory option, not a dealer option (but he might be wrong, he did not remember selling one). Comes together with the rear blinds and with the blanket in its bag. Today I will ne nowehere near the car, but tomorrow I am and will measure the headrests as reference, I visually do not remember them as close to the Octy III, but it could be to the IV. The device you linked woman bought it for her car, but when not in use - I mean when the seat is empty - rattles noisily, which is a pity in her otherwise very silent car....

Uh, you are forcing me to admit my guilt, as the one who made the mess with the ABS it was yours truly, with my own two hands ... that is why I describe the action ☺️ Three times I had a go at it, until I got it right (this was the first time I ever did an ABS sensor). I have to say the car is a Range Rover P38, for which perhaps many rules of the automotive world do not apply ... in fact, most of 'em 🤪 Here is the way the ABS sensor comes in its kit, with the bush I was referring to: https://www.roverparts.com/brakes/sensors/STC3385/ Here is the way it looks when installing it from the workshop manual: Anyway, my intention was not to distract from the topic, just to add that sometimes there are things that look to be super straightforward, and instead are not, so the advice was not to rush but go methodically at it. I got the Audi without working A/C, and by exclusion and many attempts I am now down at a wiring/electrical issue. If I had paid attention to the first shop I asked I would have forked out many bills for a new compressor, pressure sensors, and such, but that would have not corrected the issue ... I will retreat now quietly in my hole and perish away 😁

I was mentioning because on mine RR I did had a failure on the ABS that was "fixed" by pushing the sensor further inside its housing (some sort of copper 'cage' that fits into the knuckle), which got dislogded somehow. I had a friend's D2 ABS failure due to excessive rust in the reluctor ring ... About calibration I was drawing on "universal" or aftermarket Lambda sensor (02 sensor), which sometime provide incorrect signal and data. So you thing you've fixed the problem, but not really ... Just to keep the OP aware sometimes is not black or white, or so easy fix ...

Man, is not so bad - I got horrible news from pals with way more "prestigious" brands .... and at a fraction of your time and usage! I would stick to the SIII, I do not see a reasonable replacement any time soon, in its category at least. You could jump from yours to a late model, they are also quite expensive but a known breed. Don't be afraid to jump borders to get your car, you are in the heart of Europe so should be fairly easy - heck, I got mine from Czech after months of searching! Other possibility that I am thinking about: Change my Mk3 for a « reasonable » daily and buy an old car. Maybe a Triumph TR4 or even more « crazy », to still get fun with a car. Now you are going straight into madness territory. From a longtime scrapper and serial accumulator of old stuff, be very careful with what you wish for .... you might discovery endless ways to part with your money. Imagine I've decided on my 280 as a 'reasonable' "almost* daily", so imagine the rest of the garage 🙄😁 And SWMBO agreed! * I say "almost daily" because for everyday trashing i use a small econobox, yes, is not so rewarding, but I do not see a great advantage in ruining an expensive car in small runs.... referring also so numbskull post above, I'd greatly support having a small runaround. Yes, it is another set of costs (tax, insurance, MOT, tires, battery, etc.) but it helps compensate costs greatly. I am waiting the moment a right Citigo EV comes around and then I might upgrade the econobox as well ....

There could be also various quality levels. I'd would not go too cheap on ABS sensors, if they provide incorrect/fluctuating data and/or are not calibrated properly, you might not solve your problem and be back at square one. Also, do you have the chance to run a 'live test' to see if all sensors are registering speed and with what variations? Sometimes the problem might not be the sensor itself, but something else, like if it got dislogded from its housing, or work was done around the area and it got banged/hammered, presence of rust, and so on. Actually, I'd say the reason of your electrical problems is ... Solihull 😝 Only nightmares ....🤪 Just joking 😁

I also agree, at least for the time being.... your car's got some years, but if is 50K miles that is barely run in, I'd say. There are certain things which go bad in time, some bad with mileage ...

I can't explain it 🤪

As one that spent some time in the trade, albeit not dealing with this aspect of the business, I add to the above that it is very, very profitable. Now, not hugegly profitable as it was before you guys jumped ship (or so it seems), but is still. There is a tremendous value in parts in a modern car. Latest trend from few years back is to get written off cars from US/CDN, which come here at virtually gift prices, fixed up (with various degress of quality), and then sold off at magical market prices. Considering the lack of regulation on the matter, it should come at no suprise that there is a sub-world living off on this ... What the OP has done is a classic at these latitudes, as it would be super cheap in labor terms to buy something written off and fix it. Personally, I've always considered 'mainstream' RHD cars should be banned in LHD countries, and viceversa. They are a very dangerous item, a moving bomb, literally. Luckily, over recent years the influx from the Kingdom has reduced itself substantially, and for example here, while you can still import and register a RHD car, is no longer possible to do the conversion "yourself" but it has to be legalized/certified by a dealer or authorized mechanic from the manufacturer. To the list of parts suggested above, there is also all the ancillaries that live "behind" the dash, in case they are asymmetrical, like the A/C piping, HVAC piping, fan and its box, but before anything gets started, I would look very carefully that the firewall is symmetric enough to allow the swap of the pass-through components. Some cars "look like" symmetric, but are not. Even in my Range Rover (British car! Lord!), which I've stripped enough to the bone, is not that immediate a swap of sorts. Even a more primitive car like a Landy Series, still requires dedicated work to make the swap happen, like welding the gussets for the steering box ... Last crazy guy I've heard that wanted to do this with an A4 B7 DTM edition (also purchased for few peanuts) abandoned the project when he heard the wiring looms could not be "extended" but had to be replaced entirely. Crazy prices. Better as suggested, get a LHD donor car ... and lots of time.

Add me to the list, happened a few times. Learned to tiptoe carefully around the rear bumper, or to leave the key in the proximity of the front of the car.

The only two times it did this to me, both times without sound, it was because I had the keyfob in my pocket and probably activated without wanting it. There are several topics on the subject from many years ....

Bap, many thanks for clearing this up and provide this info, extremely useful. I am also buggered by the sometimes "brusque" release of the autohold. When I am manouvering, I exclude it altogether sometimes. I will try the coding ....hopefully will stick to a FL.

I succeeded! I changed the settings to 'recent programs' (it was 'frequent programs'). Now it seems fine, will run it for a couple of days and see.... Incidentally, today I received an email labeling me a pervert and preparing myself with a thousand bucks in crypto otherwise my deviances will be exposed ... well at least it got me motivated to change my password, thing that I was delaying ....

I was going to mention I've secured the OE ones for my combi and mounted them. They are German, but I am not seriously impressed, especially considering the price. I have purchased several kits produced by UK company 'carshades' and I have to say these are a far superior product. Had I known, I woulda bought their option for the Superb, and save some money as well ....

Interesting question, I've noticed mines comes on randomly, sometimes I leave the car in P and does not engage, sometimes it does. Mistery ...

I did not 'swap' from a pre-FL to a FL car, but for me the 7-speed was sufficient advantage ti win it over, being the trickiest mod to retrofit (if ever). It was a hard one against the double-injection setup, but oh well, a car with the right spec for me came along and ... so we are. I only did not imagine so much would change with the coding, but again, is not the end of all things. Choose the car according to condition and specification, I'd say.

Lee thanks! You nailed it! My issue is tht I cannot see the "most recent programs", my list stays blank with only Windows Defender on it. No amount of usage bring any "app" in there. Am I missing something in the settings? Mine is set as 'Classic with two columns' I think

Got it .... I am not sure this is the case, but in the week will try some variations and see what I come up with. Thanks!

Sorry for this resurrection, but I got a funny issue with Win10 ... I started using it just couple months ago (don't laugh), upset by the start/menu pop display which is substantially different than the one I had in Win7 (classic layout, I no like frills), I downloaded some program called "Classic Shell" which looks faily similar to the Win7 layout. However I cannot seem to be able to customize it so I can see recently opened programs in the pop up, as I was able with Win7. Anybody that has managed to understand my cumbersome explanation has an idea? Thanks! 🤪

Some topics here refer to a probably "weep" or leak from the thermostat/water pump housing, which could lead to a catastrophic failure if it breaks in a high engine speed situation (think highway). If you have a chance to drop underneath the car or lift it, look for traces of coolant in the lower areas of the engine. I would keep an eye on it regularly ...

Agree totally, I can say however that a very smooth going will allow you to drive on Sports even if loaded and with family (and with a nagging wife as I have, sigh), provided you play with the paddles to overcome the way the DSG keeps the gears. Overall, although I found an ideal balance in the pedal/throttle response and the gearbox when in Sports, I think a pedal box is inevitable considering I often drive in other regimes .... This morning I was having coffee with one of my associates, which finally got the GL63 out of the workshop (this is the 5.5 twin turbo), and curiously was commenting the same thing. We went for a drive and when in ECO/Normal, is the same sensation: the same lagginess, the pedal is "lost", and so on. Turn it to Sports mode and it becomes lively, but as opposed to the Superb here the AMG V8 goes really wild, the situation becomes quickly uncontrollable, or better say totally outlaw 😝 Those pops and roars are a symphony however .... ☺️

Well, very good "gooda/bad" description. Myself, I do not see me going anywhere else, I do not like the SIV and I was not worried about the new model, I think the SIII with the 280/272/280 option is the zenith of Skoda manufacturing ... we are venturing in a future that is continously scaling down options, so choose wisely!

Where do you find such sizes, or are they custom made?

Nice to know, who knows, you are not far away 😁