leolito

You can hold up the B.S. sign on that. As described, the auto/re-lock feature - which isn't an exclusivity to Skoda or VAG cars, works the same on whatever brand with keyless systems, the only variation is some vhicles offer the option to set the interval, like 30s, 60s, and so on. If the key is in AND is detected, car should beep upon trying to lock or should indicate a mis-lock, either visually or acoustically, depending on how is set up. I have other two kessy cars in my stable, the most primitive being a K12 Micra which is 21 years old, and the system works as described, flawlessly. However, the #$@@#$# Superb has started on this random locking as indicated in all the posts above over the past few weeks, whether is with me inside or no, sometimes when closing a door, and so on. Example: open the car - with button or handle don't matter - oper rear door, leave my bag or jacket in rear seat, close door, STRAK! car locks. Now if you leave rear door open and open front door, then it does not, although sometimes it will attempt if I close the driver's door AND another door is open. I have already been left outside a couple times and had to resort to external assistance to get another key brought to me or go get it, so now I NEVER ever leave the darn key inside. Armed with VCDS, I've scanned the car a few times, first couple would not get anything, but last time I got the following faults: 196665 Switch for Central Locking - Signal Implausible 196652 Mirror selector switch - Signal Implausible Now, since I also noticed the Mirror switch is acting up, sometimes mirrors would not deploy or retract on command - they work normally if the car is opened or closed with the locking system, I have to find some time and look into the door itself, switches and/or possibile the lock in the door. I would suggest to those with this problem to plug in a diagnostic and check if there is not a fault that can be traced back to some component or the wiring, regardless of any software update that might be. It has to be a pretty interesting "bug" that would allow this to happen, but I put my coin in an electric failure of some kind. Update will follow! Sorry for the long post ...

We wait for developments! I believe with better components, as many have done replacing, this aspect of the car can be much improved! @cnc I also like comfort, but the bounciness is not really desirable, besides being uncomfortable, it stresses many components in an unneccessary manner... the Superb's suspension - at least mine with DCC - allows too much body movement, i had a similar case on one of my earlier Audis and it was not very pleasant, especially when towing 🫣

It would be hilarious hear the report on your conversation with an officer that inquires what are you doing lurking in the mall parking lot around other people's property 😄 Mine is floaty, bouncy, and I believe severely underdamped for such a large and heavy barge (DCC). It would be interesting to hear if someone has had a ride on a higher-spec richer cousin of the VAG family like an Arteon to see if this is really a design shortcoming or was simply installation of cheaper components ... I suspect the latter, as the car in Sport mode is reasonably firm and very balanced (I am in Sport 90% of the time, also to prevent the dreaded DSG retarded driving mode). I also plan to upgrade when the moment comes, pity we are still in the dark for the slider mod ... ☹️

I noticed this as well, and my theory is that they designed the system with a brake "bias" to load first and more the rear to minimize dive on braking, especially when ACC/PCC controls the car and applies brakes at its will. Why I wouldn't say, but I suspect to minimize the terror in the passengers unaware of simple physics and vehicle dynamics and going at each time for the "Oh Jesus" handle which probably does not hold weight "like they used to" 😁 If you drive, even with ACC/PCC on, more "proactively", for example say you are coming up on the motorway to a bottleneck - typical HGVs passing each other with a 0.6km/h speed difference 😄 - lowering the target speed earlier I feel car uses only throttle closed/engine braking, and does not touch, or touches very lightly the brakes, and in that case I still suspect are only the rears.

If you can trust this - so far is been reliable - it states same oil for front and rear, 75W-90 however. https://ato24.de/en/oil-finder-page?type_id=107784

@zacko_O those are very nice! 😁

No, not vRS, actually did not even know the S3 comes in that trim. Mine is L&K, auto. Here you have in the Kopacek page the entire list of items in that category, with part numbers and actually prices that look very respectable to me ... https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/pedals-footrests/

Mine came with them, but not the foot rest, which I got it from ... i think skoda parts. I think also far East options such as alixx could be suitable.

The fact is that you might not be able to avoid the fact that the "next corner shop" might be purchasing them from Temu anyway 😄 If you save the middlemen at least save some money 😁 Any tuning/rim shop should be able to procure those for you, but it would be better to take your car and at least one rim for checking on the spot.

Haven't done much except traveling, but I have noticed after almost 6k km that these pads do NOT dirty the rims so much as the previous mounted ones, that were some TRW. Amazing amazing difference! Just by the effort in cleaning up the darn rims - will see after the ceramic coating how it will go - is sufficient to justify the price difference ... Once again kudos to @travs for his great advice. In time, I'll do the fronts ...

Add me to the list, my mirror switch is sometimes reluctant to behave as it should. I get an "implausible" signal on VCDS, I will remove it and clean sometime soon, and see what happens. At the same time I plan other work on the door ... soon will expand on this!

Just to report I am like almost 4k km with the oil above and no noticeable difference in performance or fuel consumption. I had to refill a ~200ml but in fairness, I subjected the big girl to a terrible journey with long sustained "cruising" at high speed so it makes sense ... first time since car ownership actually 🙂 For the next replacement I was wondering to try the 0W-40 Fuchs I could not find previous time, or an equivalente 0W-30 like the Castrol Edge, but in 504/507 comes only Long Life. Question for the crowd: if a car comes out with "long service" then it makes sense to use the "long life" oil as above, but if you switch to a short/fixed service interval, what is the alternative to the long life oil? I've asked the boys at my dealer and they looked at me like I was coming from Mars ... 🤪

Will look on that ... I used the wax treatment on the winter 17" alloys, but I have not mounted them yet so no idea how will react to the dirt. Will keep posted.

This above! In any autoparts shop or bricolage you can get an inexpensive "interior trim tool kit" which comes with various sizes and shapes plastic and metal trim tools. Metal use them only for large surfaces where you can apply leverage evenly and "forcibly", like for example a door panel. If you are unable to secure any of that, a screwdriver could suffice provided that: you choose one of the right size for the area you need to lever - too big, or too small, will only damage the area you are working on. If you have an old blut one, the better, you do not need the edge. I have one from my grampa must be like 50 years old and is perfect for these tasks 😊 wrap it around in something that can protect the plastic surface from the metal, that is insulating tape, paper tape - the type used by bodywork/paint, and the like. Don't use scotch tape as it rips and the metal scratches, don't put too much otherwise you loose the "feel" of the leverage applied whatever you do, slowly and methodically be very very very careful! If you have the paper bodywork tape, my favorite, you can also tape the adjacent areas where you are working, lest you were to "slip" you might be able to save the area from scratching. I have used many times the method above, but you always know you are in the "risk area". Again, these tips are only secondary to get the rght instrument to get the right job. Do it right, do it once! 😉

I think this is into the maps' information, and how the navigation chooses a logic "built-in" the maps. Often when I make long travel solo, I tend to use Waze from Android auto on the main display, and separately on my trusty (less trusty now, but this is another story) Garmin Nuvi55 where the ashtray would be. This comes handy when one loses the signal, or in SRB where I turn phone off due to the very high phone roaming charges, plus I use the Nuvi as a "overall trip recorder" of the journey. Now, both devices are set and programmed at the same time and with the same destination, yet often differ in route choosing and ETA ...

If the rest of the head lamp assy is in good shape, is not brave because you're poor, but the right thing to do 😉 To throw away the entire thing for one burnt LED ... no no! Let us know how it goes!

On mine is white, but turn orange when the turn signal is on. I consider it stupid, as I tend to like redundancy, but again, someone thought it was a great idea to have one unit to double two jobs, so then if it fails, you lose BOTH. Oh well ...

Can it be that it remained "stuck" in what should be the turn indicator, and instead of blinking remains steady?

I tend to agree with the post of Evolution13 above, runnning now Fuchs Titan Gt1 Flex 3 5W-40, I could not find in stock the 0W-40 but I plan for "early" replacement ... The only thing that I am concerned is the possibility that, to get an even lower score in the darn WLTP ranking, and thus get away with oils with viscosity like 0W-30 or the 0W-20 indicated by the OP, in a high performance TURBO petrol engine, some dweeb at VAG thought it was a great idea to downgrade some oil-related component (say oil pump) so it would run "lighter" and diminish drag and so on, and by now using a higher viscosity oil, this can provoke an inevitable failure. If someone was to tell me this some years ago, I would have dismissed it as a joke, but now I am ready to believe anything is possible, as we go down the rabbit hole of the demise of the car motoring industry as we know it ...

Now serious, I seem to remember if you remove the top center grill there is some access, you can try to spray something there - I need to do this. Otherwise yes, is a dash out job, I am afraid.

I can related to the haunted house whistle, on my RR P38 as the central vent flaps were damaged and I repaired them (bodged them, this was years ago). They still do their work, but in the closed position there is probably air pushed on the edge generating that sound. I was bothered at first, but then, being a Range Rover, it will always be "haunted" 😁

There must be some automatic auto-censor/auto-ban pop up message preventing users from risking dismissal from Briskoda by invoking profane words like yours! 😆

...every time I think I know better than Waze I get it wrong... 😁😁😁 I learned this quickly as I was planying with it at the beginning!! Now, is not impossible to "make it better", but this depends on how well you know the tricks of the roads you are going through ... if you know a few shortcuts or a couple of tricks - some of them not really allowed by the road code - you can significantly make some better time. But in short, Navi are indeed getting better, but sometimes the keen eye of the "lookout" is still unbeatable ...

Will keep these in mind! I had some setback* and will have to pospone this mod until I have some more free time ... * I found another toy to play with 😁

Arrived yesterday! Will try to play next week with it and report 🙂