Jack25

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03c907660t-oil-level-sensor-skoda-16903.html oil level sensor and temperature sensor Gasket https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/038103196-gasket-for-oil-level-sensor-skoda-14403.html

the lin-bus is shared for the MFSW too so if the linbus is interupted the button will not be working, and if the MFSW isn't communicating also the cruise control will stop working as a safety function

Cut them off if you have a tie rod extractor you’re good, in my Fabia and other vag I use this set https://www.amazon.it/supporto-eiettore-universale-estrattore-sferico/dp/B01N6NU329

According to the wiring diagrams if you have the extended service intervals (ESI) you have the oil sensor in the oil pan, however attached there are the wiring diagrams, but probably you will need to code the different interval for the oil changes. From the 3 pin connector of the oil sensors in the pan you need to wire the pin this way T3F/1 (indicate the pin n° 1 in the connector T3F of the oil sensor) this pin have to be wired to the fuse n°3 which is already used so you need to split the wire and solder the one to power the oil sensor T3F/2 this pin is a ground in the ecu wiring harness you will need to find the pin T14a/7 and (like for the fuse) split the wire and solder there the new ground T3F/3 this is the pin that goes to the instrument cluster pin n° T32A/11 that need to be added because there is no wire in that position in the connector

if you have a diagnostic tool (vcds would be great) look for the injector value and see if there is any problem with injector 4 while the car is running

I did this in mine a while ago to replace the rubber one with the polyurethane one, you need an extractor especially to mount the new one I've used this set of extractor https://www.ebay.de/itm/127947685719?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&_ul=DE&amdata=enc%3A1vNRjCVhZTJeWGY5yCkPgFw8&campid=5339018407&mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&rb_itemId=127947685719&rb_pgeo=DE&toolid=10044&var=0&var=0&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&wbraid=Cj8KCQjw0LzWBhCwARIuAJkypPQIFpJwg1aeGKo75Pvo82mKgioLELJXjzoyBWQaN-N77na_jhfLZ_YUyRoCW-A&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_I3Q_p1yPD94ljoHBMP1ogTd&adtype=pla&loc_physical_ms=1008529&loc_interest_ms=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24323471418

I buy them on www.skoda-parts.com

I’ve posted the link just to let you know which parts are needed, probably if you look for the various part needed on different platforms the final prince would be cheaper

Thank you very much!

Buy the brake disck rear axle and you will need these parts, https://darksidedevelopments.com/products/rear-brake-drum-to-disc-conversion-for-skoda-fabia-5j-mk2.html (the fitting point in the frame are the same even for the shock and spring), maybe consider to fit polyurethane bushing in the rear subframe to increase the handling. Let me know if you want to upgrade the brake setup to fit 256mm vented rear discs (and to increase front to 288 or 312mm)

If it has direct fuel injection, it could be carbon buildup on the intake valves. My 1.2 TSI CBZB in a Mk2 Fabia also suffers from random misfires on cold starts, but they aren't picked up by VCDS. However, I'm planning to clean the intake valves soon. In order to clean the valves, you can take different approaches (all of them require removing the intake manifold). For example, walnut blasting is probably the fastest and most efficient method. Another method, which VW used years ago, involves using a set of 5–6 zip ties and a drill to loosen the carbon buildup. Apply a suitable degreaser and let the zip ties remove the buildup through their rotation. You can then use a pick tool to remove any remaining residue. Be sure to rotate the engine manually so that the valve is fully closed; otherwise, the carbon will fall into the combustion chamber, which isn't good. I will try this method:

you're welcome :)

get a vcds and look for timing chain deviation and all other parameter related, in that way you will know for sure what is going on, probably even just listening at it wile idling can tell if something is wrong

Go for ContiTech; it is the manufacturer for original VAG parts. I replaced the auxiliary belt tensioner at 152,184 km around the end of 2024 because there was a little squealing sound in the freezing winter on cold starts. However, the belt from 2013 (original equipment produced by Continental) was still in perfect condition without any cracks or wear. I replaced it anyway just because it came in the kit. For the water pump, go for ContiTech as well I've just replaced a Fiat water pump with that brand, and it is not giving me any problems. my advice for the timing chain is to buy an original one it isn't very expensive and is a good quality item

I was having random misfire without any warning on the cluster even vcds didn’t show anything, after replacing ignition lead (for the updated one with the heat shield around each ignition lead) and the spark plugs the misfire was still present after replacing the ignition coil the misfire went away, from the outside it wasn’t presenting anything wrong so if is still the original try to replace it

it's a DIY look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr8IIU1RkLk be sure to pop the airbag cover from underneath in order to not damage it or the dashboard for reference: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q0959263a-heat-limiting-resistor-skoda-5971.html

look at my post here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538234-spongey-brakes-new-problem-with-abs/#comment-6000661 in the bottom of the page there is the explanation of the long coding

depend on your bcm realistically, i have the bcm 6R7937087P and i've retrofitted the following: Cruise control rear electric window cornering fog light (via turn signal or steereing imput) Climatronic anti theft system heated seats headlight washer rear pdc (and also front all oem amarok pdc unit and mk2 octavia wiring) multi function steering wheel Working on ASF tings that you can enable: via bcm: confort closing and opening of the window via the key fob (if not already active) visual confirmation of the closing window via key hole or key fob (the azzard blink once when all window close), after the retrofit of the cornering light via fog light you can code the steering angle and the speed for them to turn on, after the headlight washer retrofit you can chose how often you want to use it, via abs module (I have the 6R0 907 379 AF) and I manage to enable hill hold assist, indirect tpms and XDS is an electronic simulation of a meccanical differential basiccaly it brake the slipping tyre during a fast corner to improove traction to the other front wheel (it works only on the fron wheels), activation of the brake wipe if is raining and you have the wiper on the abs module will brake wery slightly to dry pads and brake discs, airbag unit: still under process (I need the time to do it) front passenger ccupancy pads (dectects if there is a weight on the seats and if the seatbelt isn't fastened the warning will beeping, instrument cluster, needle celebration when turning the ignition on, service intervals (I've setted mine to 10k km instaed of 15k km), steering assist weight I've setted mine to fabia vrs/polo gti to increase the weight of the steering, many other things that when I will remember that I'll update the post. (also a ton of mechanical mods).

keep in mind that all the immo data is stored in the cluster so new key and oem central locking retrofit require the key coding, also the mk3 cluster is not compatible too much different platform and software, look for 3dcolormfd for a display upgrade wich doesn't require a key program

if is a 1.2 tsi cbz my suggestion is that it could be a coil pack, look also for the ignition leads, being a 2015 it could be already equipped with the upgraded one (the difference is the heat sheild on the cable), a known fault that can cause a limp mode is the turbo actuator, in my 2013 fabia a faulty coil pack and later a worn spark plug never caused a limp mode 'just' the epc light followed by tcs ecc., (a completely worn ignitoin lead did cause a limp mode once). A faulty wheel sensor normally dosent cause a limp mode, in my fabia I've broken one wile replacing a front wheel bearing and no limp mode just abs tcs tpms warning, also on a 2016 octavia scout 2.0 tdi 184 bhp a snow chain sliced the wheel speed sensor causing all sorta of faults but again no limp mode.

Look also for the carbon build up on the intake valve, it's a direct fuel injection engine a walnut blast could be nice

look for the F&R sway bar links, but mainly look for all the rear subframe bushing, I suspect for some multilink arm

Stupid question have you ever changed the fuel filter?

Also you can try for a smoke leak test, if is a pcv o anything related to the intake sistem you will see the smoke escaping, however if you have vcds like said before look for chain stretch, fuel pressure and the activation and pressure for each injector

yeah my bad, i assumed by the dedicated pin that the wiring was separate, it could be a joint point worth to check