Jack25

sorry my bad, you will need to remove: engine undertray protection front bumper wheel liner then you will see the 3 bolts that hold the headlight in place here a guide to remove the front bumper: https://remont-bampera.com/en/skoda-fabia-mk2-2007-2014 the headlight is really easy to remove

You're welcome!

I suspect that the car was crashed and the airbag deployed, however the fault 01044 in the gateway is because there is an error in the installation list (is a list where you select the oprional according to the car equipment), for example in the video you can see the gateway installation list. The problem is that if the airbag really deployed (according to the fault it could be) is that to allign the new airbag module you will need odis to code it and pair it to all the car module involved

first result on google..

Is the car tuned? engine ecu? gearbox? (if it's a DSG) I'm asking because I've seen an audi a6 TDI whit a ecu tune and some parameter were exlued from giving warning light on the dash but the fault was active but not stored and causing the ecu to go in limp mode, in the end after fashing the ecu back to original they were able to see the fault and was a oil temperature switch readin 1000°C

weird mine doesn't, there is no comunication btween abs and door components in the wiring diagram

I have a 2013 mk2 fabia combi 1.2 tsi cbza originally with 86bhp tuned with revo stg.1 software pushing around 130-140bhp the sparkplug lasted 22k km and they were ngk iridium laser instaed of the 60k km that they should last with an original tune, before the tune my gearbox was whining from the diff and the shaft bearings, I've ignored that and used a set of Yokhoama ad08rs take the **** out of the whole thing and after a year I've destroied the box, not a big deal because I've managed to get a 60k km gearbox froma a 1.2 tsi cbzb (105 bhp) version and fitted it my self (also a new clutch despite the 8k km to the one fitted but the housing deribs destroied the pressure plate, tuned at 156k km at 178k km the box went, I'm super happy about the tune.

Look via oem code online or on skoda-parts or look for a genuine one but used, most of the time is better a good condition but second hand spare rather than a new one but from a cheap brand

You're welcome, in your place i would consider the benefit from the mk1 seats and the facts that there isn't the airbag in case (I hope vividly that it doesn't append) of a side impact the airbag can help you a lot especially if you don't have curtains airbag

you're welcome :)

At first glance, if you have VCDS, go into Engine → Measuring Blocks (08) and check fuel rail pressure like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k50Z5JLfuJs Check requested vs actual pressure during cranking. If fuel pressure is correct, then look at the mass air flow sensor and consider replacing it. If the MAF is faulty, it can cause difficult starting. Then, if the problem persists, check if the EGR is clogged, although the engine should still start even if it is partially clogged.

Good so my scheme are correct, I will try my best to explain the scheme: here we have a scheme to follow from top to down where J519 is the bcm T73a is the black connector on the bcm (the other one is marked as T73B and is white) For example T73a/19 means the connector (every connector has it's own name there isn't a duplicate) 19 means the pin on the module and connector, so: the pin 17 in the connector T73a is also the pin 17 on the bcm. 0.35 is the thickenss of the wire and the colors are written in german. For example the wire of the pin T73a/19 from the bcm goes to the T28a/4 wich is the connector in the driver door in the 'a' pillar, the one that you have repaired, so the pin from the pcm connect to the pin n°4 in the door connector, then in the door wiring it change color from brown/violet to brown/yellow, then it connects to connector T8f/3 the pin n°3 in the F220 Driver side central locking lock unit. Acordin to the ft that you have the central lock you have the V161 F2 Driver door contact switch F220 Driver side central locking lock unit F241 Driver side contact switch in lock cylinder J519 Onboard supply control unit T8f 8-pin connector T28a 28-pin connector, on left A-pillar T73a 73-pin connector V56 Driver door central locking motor V161 Driver door central locking deadlock function motor (the one that prevents the door from being opened from the inside when locked via key fob). 205 Earth connection, in driver door wiring harness 372 Earth connection 7, in main wiring harness B720 Connection 1 (central locking), in main wiring harness S12 Connection (SAFE 1), in central locking wiring harness * According to equipment

You're welcome, I will look for the wiring for the central lockon via keyfob, however in the picture there is the difference btween prefacelift (left) and facelift (right)

Go for a mk2 FL whit esp an tcs, and maybe for pace of mind even curtains airbag (they're optional), it's a safe car and very solid, i've got rear ended and pushed under the car in front of me and the front crash bar wasn't even scratched, also no airbag deplyment so i've replaced: rear bumper, tailgate, rear crash bar, front bumper and hood and the frame i straight and I didn't suffer from any major cuncussion, (the car behind me was traveling at least at 40-50 km/h). For the esp/tcs is really advanced, with the extended handling upgrade done to my fabia is even quite too ivasive even if i drive always with the tcs off; but the esp is not deactivable only if you pull the fuse or like on the snow driving with the handbrake on the first clik to disable the esp intervention to have some fun. i own a 1.2 tsi tuned to 140bhp with 186k km and I'm absolutely happy of it relayable and if the driving is good very economcal too. If you want you can retrofit tons of optional, I do personally every intervent on my fabia and I've managed to retrofit even the front pdc even if for the fabia there wasn't any optional for that.

I'm not completely sure about coding them out. I’d first try adding a resistor to the connector, or if i can suggest for other advice, even if the fabric is completely different (and the Mk1 VRS seats are very pretty). Look for some Mk2 Monte Carlo seats (one of the best retrofits I’ve done, and while i was replacing foam i've also added the heating elements). They’re super comfortable, and the sides of the seat keep you in position really well (even in my case where my fabia is heavly modded for cornering capability). (I suggest adding the resistor because I’m not sure if it’s possible to code the seat airbags out. It’s the only module I haven’t coded much. In the next few days I’ll add the passenger seat occupancy sensor, and in VCDS I can see the option to code that in, but that’s almost the only coding I’ve looked at in that module.)

I belive is a coincidence, in the door loom there isn't the canbus drivetrain (the one for the engine ecu, instrumet cluster, airbag system or abs and other priority system), so i guess it shouldn't be the coulprit, there is a ground in the door wiring but if you managed to raise the window I belive that the ground is connected. Do you have any scan tool? also which engine do you have and year?

@Clivegilyatt for the other pins let me know the position and i will tell you color

T28A1 Blue/yellow T28A2 Violet/yellow T28A3 Green/yellow T28A4 Brown/violet T28A5 Grey/white T28A6 Yellow/blue T28A7 T28A8 Grey/blue T28A9 T28A10 T28A11 T28A12 T28A13 T28A14 White/violet T28A15 Red/black (if you have anti theft) T28A16 Brown T28A17 Blue (if you have anti theft) T28A18 Brown/yellow (if you have anti theft) T28A19 T28A20 T28A21 T28A22 T28A23 Brown/blue T28A24 Brown/violet T28A25 Red/white T28A26 T28A27 T28A28

Give me some minute and i will report back with a writedown of color and pin, i have the diagram for a facelift mk2, wich one do you have? Pre facelif or facelift?

You’re welcome, yes I’m interested in the cluster swap but is in hold at the moment I’m considering others retrofit for now, I’ve already done: oem front and rear ops Rear electric windows Headlight washer Montecarlo seats and heating element MFSW Cornering light via fog light Xds and hill hold (coding via vcds) Tpms switch Work in progress oem anti theft system (I need to just do the wiring I have all the components) Front passenger occupancy detection (same situation for the anti theft) Working on the wiring system for the cornering headlight (I have already the AFS module) Abs module 9.0i Working on the wiring system for the Climatronic (auto a/c system)

for the mfsw it's quite easy you can find my guide here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538152-replace-steering-wheel-with-mfsw/#comment-5999427 for the maxidot I'm trying to do it my self but it's quite difficult and the material needed is a bit too expensive to do it jus one time for this reason i would like to suggest to look here: https://3dcolormfd.com/ I've contacted them and they do the greendot cluster of the fabia mk2 FL, they offer way more funtion than the maxidot and there isn't the trouble and cost to clone the cluseter parameter as the EEPROM miles or kms alignment key programming and all that come with a cluster swap. For the other things I'm sorry but I'm not uk based so I'm not able to provide advice on who is able to do the job.

here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495377-monte-carlo-headlights-retrofit/

It isn't a straight swap; otherwise, you will lose the fixed high beam (not the flash function). And yes, it is a shutter type, so you will need to do a proper retrofit with a relay and some wiring. (Also, here on Briskoda, I've read that some users who tested Fabias with chrome vs. black headlights claimed that the black ones are less bright due to the missing reflection from the chrome in the standard ones).

When I grenaded my Fabia gearbox, some bellhousing debris (actually large chunks) hit the pressure plate and bent it. Even though the clutch had only 8,000 km on it, I had to replace it (fun DIY) due to that it wasn't possible to get out of gear while the car was running. It could be something similar, like a faulty clutch sleeve or a pressure plate at the end of its useful life. With everyday use, the forks that are pressed by the clutch release bearing wear out, making it impossible to select gears.

As far as I know you can look pretty much any floor from a hatch or combi according to your model, look also in to scrap yards. Also look here, is avialable https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5ja863463c1bs-boot-rug-sedan-skoda-44046.html