Jack25

I really understand you, I too would like to have more bhp in my fabia, for now i'm "stuck" around at 140 bhp with a revo stg.1 and 100 octane fuel, if only it was a 1.2 tsi EA211, the turbo could be easly upgraded from a ton of vag cars just plug and play (and a tune), but on the EA111 the turbo is saddly integrated in the exhaust manifold

For a moment i've tought of that but there is to much to consider, first of all you need to find a cylinder head with the same diameter of the celing of the head and the celing of the piston, then a way to bolt the head in the monoblock due the different size of the SHOC and the DHOC, find a way to route the timing chain, ecu and many other thing, at this point put a 2.0L tsi in it, due to the frame rail design it can allow that vag engine. (my dream is to find a wrecked S1 and make my fabia combi 5J awd)

Using my 2011 1.2 tsi fabia cbz vin there are two type of o2 sensor: 5 pin: pre cat 03F906262B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f906262-oxygen-sensor-1-2tsi-63kw-77kw-skoda-42022.html 4 pin: post cat 03F906262C https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03f906262c-oxygen-sensor-1-2tsi-63kw-77kw-magneti-marelli-49011.html

In my fabia (same engine but wagon) I've chased the same issue, the coulprit was the (UK passenger side) upper handlink bolt loose, they're cheap so consider to replace them. I've realize that after replacing everything in the suspension scheme, even a wheel bearing with 2k km, in the end when I was replacing the lower control arm balljoint, moving the strut (like steering) when I've reached the steering full lock the handlink moved making the same knock I was listening while driving. I've also replaced the inner tie rod if you need help feel free to ask.

As reported here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q0411105k-suspension-spring-front-axle-lesjofors-52115.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q0511115af-suspension-spring-rear-axle-lesjofors-41780.html Those are the lowered spring for wheicle whit sport suspension so yes i belive is g04 also this springs are the one that i've fitted on my fabia, be aware that the lesjofors are high, do not expect to se those 7 meters btween the wheel and tyre to desapperar, my suggestion is to look for second hand oem springs, my rear one come off from an A1 with the same color pattern (paint dot, and sometingh like 3k km) for the fabia combi, and those look a bit lower than the front lesjofors.

Personal advice, LESJÖFORS spring are a bit higher than oem, if you look for a bit of lowering buy the genuine one, also if you're looking for stiffening up try to give a look at https://www.strongflex.eu/de/519-skoda-fabia-ii-5j-2007-2014 for some stiffer bushing. for the shock absorber try to look for some bilstein b4 (oem like slightly better) or b6, due to the LPG wheight i would consider to stiff up even just a little bit the suspension scheme. In my 2013 fabia combi 1.2 tsi I've done this, Front and rear koni sport (yellow) shock absorber Front spring lesjofors for a fabia combi montecarlo, rear oem fabia combi motecarlo just to get all aorund -15mm All bushing are strongflex yellow 90 shore (even the rear axle, shock absorber top mount, ecc.) Rear adjustable ARB from Whiteline All the possible brace from ultraracing Next upgrade (i just need some time to fit it) front sway bar from Whiteline 21mm diameter and ajustable Whit this set-up you can feel even the gravel on the road, but the car is glued to the ground, I mean I don't advice you this configuration, but i belive you have a lot of possibility in btween, my biggest advice is to get the rear ARB it does change completley the driving feeling.

As far as I know, in my Fabia 5J (mk2) after connecting a different cluster and turning the ignition on I’ve lost the abs module long coding, opened vcds founded the old code and after writing it it was working again, for this operation I’ve used vcds. I recon that if “you” (the garage o who for you) save the old coding and write it back in the second hand unit with the exact same part number it will be ok.

Absolutley agree firt hoses then the rest, Get the p/n of the abs unit and look online for second hand unit but be aware that before swapping the module you will need to save the long coding of the original module, make sure that the garage does that otherwise you will lose it and is quite hard to deduce the long coding, (is a nuber who summarize all the option in the car like brake discs sike part of the vin number and many other things).

Yes, I use royal purple 5w40 in my 1.2 tsi fabia previously motul x cess gen 2 5w40. Look for vw 502.00 for fixed service or vw 504.00 spec for variable service

Thanks guys I really appreciate it. 43k miles is really good deal, I was worried of mine reaching 113k miles, if you want to give it a look I can link a thread of my Fabia in an Italian Skoda forum, (you will need to just translate it from the browser settings), I’ve converted it to basically a Fabia full optional, just missing the climatronic and mfd cluster, I’ve found a guide to convert to a climatronic, and still working on the mfd, currently I have a abs 9.0i wating in the garage and next project is a bcm max conversion (from p/n 6r0 to 7e) https://www.skodaclub.it/index.php?topic=20693.0

ok got it, if i can give some advice, (i don't know if you have done it yet), to remove the gearbox disconnect both driveshaft, you can remove just the shorter one (in UK the passenger side one), and start to loose all the gearbox housing bolts, do not remove them yet, remove the lover mount (pendulum mount) use an engine stand like this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F374957660842&ved=0CBkQjhxqFwoTCPi6lZ2ZnZMDFQAAAAAdAAAAABA-&opi=89978449 place and tight a ratchet straps around the gearbox be sure to not damage te reverse switch and attach it in one of the hook of the engine stand, the other hook place it in the engine 'holder' located btween the charge pipe and the tsi cover, remove the right upper gearbox mount, then remove the previous loseen bolt, then you will be able to move the gearbox eiggle it a bit just to fee it up, lower the hook of the engine and simultanusly lover the gearbox, from the passenger wheel well you will be abel to see the two bolt that old in place the gearbox mount, a black c shaped bracket, once removed you will be able to lower the gearbox lowering gently using the hook, to install is a reverse order, but for the c bracket, you will need to bolt in the gearbox first then lower the engine bolt-it back and you're good, for the clutch pressur plate you will need a 12 point socket, i'vw used this set: HASKYY https://amzn.eu/d/0ce3Z97n the pressure plate bolt are this one https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n90320701-clutch-screw-m7x14-germany-oe-producer-10902.html to lock the fly wheel i've used this tool BGS 9616

If i can ask, are you going to swap it your self or a mechanic?

you're very welcome, for any needs feel free to reach out!

You're welcome, if it can help, Fabia hatch montecarlo 1.2 TSI CBZA TMBJM65J4E3028175 MFA gearbox (manual 5 speed) Manufactured 7.8.2013 Fabia combi montecarlo 1.2 TSI CBZB TMBFN65J6C3078950 LMG gearbox (manual 5 speed) Manufactured 25.10.2011 the only possible difference due to the production year are the abs module from 8.2i for the 2011 and abs 9.0i from 2012 onwards (the 9.0i can be retrofitted, i will probably try to do that beacause i have already the abs module in the garage, mainly there is some adaptation differences, like brake configuration that is possible to code) (the car are bot scrapped and probably a metal cube)

nope same everything, just different tune and gearbox, i've tuned my cbza to 140 bhp with a non completely healty gearbox (MFX) bit of whining noise diff noise, all gears whining, so tuned and Yokhoama semislick (ad08rs) destroyed the gearbox (due also to vibration from all bushing in polyurethane 90 shore koni yellow hard race brace and other things) so, I've used an LMG gearbox that is a standard one for the 105 bhp cbzb same bolt pattern same starter motor same clutch and flywheel same driveshaft the lot just different shaft bearings and stiffer component in the gearbox (I can tell you 100% sure because was all DIY done by only me) i can provide you a couple of vin sourced from junkyard of fabia with cbza and cbzb so if you look on skoda-parts.com you can check te various parts

looking online for second hand differential (not knowing your engine) for a low kilometer one the cheapest is around 1.2-1.3k € https://ovoko.it/ricerca?man_id=115&cmc=1089&cm=1954&cpc=459&mfi=115,1089,1954;&prs=1&page=1 No direct experience, but being an haldex system normally it drives only the front wheel, so technically, you aren't going to overload the front diff if you unplug the haldex system, in case just isolate the connector from all the atmospheric agent in order to prevent corrosion or water running from the plug to the control unit.

Could be une of the two: 5E0 827 566 6V0 827 566 if you don't have a reverse camera however look here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-parts/fabia-3/boot%20switch.html use you vin number and you will have all the maching parts in your car (mechanical, electrical ecc.)

Shock absorber bolt https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/n10628301-screw-m12x1-5x90-skoda-22120.html Knukcle bolt (circled in red) https:///spare-part/n10640501-screw-m12x1-5x80-skoda-23557.html Source https://skoda.7zap.com/en/europe/ and www.skoda-parts.com Also, I believe that the spring compressor isn't needed. Once you loose the two bolt the control arm will just lower itself, my advice is to place a trolley jack under the arm loose the tension on the bolts (like said before), remove them and lower the jack, the spring will come out, place the new spring and jack it up and bolt everything back.

When it start and shut off could be an immobilizer issue, i belive something is wrong with the cluster or a ground like said or sometingh with the elecronics

I think this should explain it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgdaLl3WZYk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmnGLy0jeVA

You're welcome, thanks!

as far as I know you can replace the screen with a large one from a facelift mk3 octavia, there is a ton of retrofit avialable look here https://kufatec.com/en/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e/ currently i'm retrofitting the front pdc system, already retrofitted the oem rear view camera, probablly next heated seats and larger radio screen and maybe if the abs pump support it the PLA system. To save some money you can buy the wiring loom from them and for examle te rear view camera used, i did that for the front pdc, sensor, pdc unit and center console switch used in perfect condition, just the wiring new. look here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/462065-head-unit-upgrade/

Yep, glad I could help, (I have the same engine in my fabia), yes the pipe is the one beside the left of the connector under the orange circle.

You need this 030103175B https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/030103175b-valve-vent-skoda-20643.html The oil vapour isn’t going in the intake manifold causing this mess. Some owner also got a check engine light for a missing breather, I have to replace it because it was broken but I didn’t have a cel. However the fitting process is really easy plough the breather in the seal and the other end the pipe under the airbox pipe, you should see a 1,5 cm diameter rubber pipe angling around

I can see the problem the breather valve is missing