Jack25

Try to disconnect the wiring in the replaced door and see if something get back to life, in that case can be a lib-bus shorted wire, the wiring in the door was the one in the new door or did you reuse the original wiring? Also try to scan-it with a software like vcds to see which error there is

Thank you, I already have vcds, and the cluster is from a 1.2 tsi cbzb rapid, I was looking for Vag Tacho K+Can and Vag Dash Can. The complete immo delete scares me a little bit, just because i would like the car to be original from a theft safety side, I fear a bit that it could be hot-wired easily.

If I can give some advice: go polyurethane. It completely changes the car’s feedback for the better—more stiffness and better cornering capabilities. You might also consider adding a rear sway bar. My Fabia combi (not a vrs just a 1.2 tsi stg.1 revo) is fully on 90 Shore polyurethane bushings from Strongflex (yellow bushings), Koni Sport (yellow), and various Ultra Racing braces, along with Whiteline front and rear sway bars. The car feels glued to the ground, (especially in summer with the Yokohama AD08RS).

Hi everyone, like in the title I would like to try to swap the green dot in my 2013 Fabia combi 1.2 tsi cbza LHD, I’ve done a lot of retrofit but I’m missing a proper cluster, I’ve found one from the rapid that does have some extra function and that it doesn’t need Steereng wheel button to be used, just the switch on the stalk (like the green dot). The rapid cluster is 5JA920840D, i have vcds but looking around i need also Vag Dash Editor in order to read the green dot immo pin and to transfer it to the rapid cluster and same with the eeprom (yesterday I’ve tried to plug in the cluster that I got from a RHD rapid it wash dirt cheap, and beside the immobiliser message some function were working like: coolant temp fuel gauge and which door was open even the hood). My question is: someone have done a swap like this? I’ve seen swap to mfd adding steering wheel control but I just want something a bit easier. (I’ve bought this cluster just to mess around, if the retrofit is possible I will buy a kph one. Also, I will check in ElsaWin to see if there is any information about reading the EEPROM or the immobilizer pin.). Thanks to everyone

When I replaced the gasket between the oil filter housing and the engine on my Fabia 1.2 TSI CBZA (same as CBZB), both the oil and the coolant had to be drained. To remove any air pockets, you should let the engine idle with the coolant reservoir cap open, while keeping the heater on full blast. This worked for me, and I haven’t had any issues even after two years of really hard use.

If is a fuse problem it should be fuse F19 under the bonnet if you have viusually checked it could be the case to test it with a multimeter or just replace it and try to se if somwthing wakes up

Look also for the spark plugs leads because there was 2 versions of leads one without heating insulation like a black plastic pipe, and with the heat generated by the engine they were failing early that they should, vw upgraded the leads with the insulation and they last way longer

You're right is a dq200 i've mistaken the service intervals with the dq250, still once in a life oil change is not bad is 1,9L of oil nothing too expensive

keep in mind that the speakers are held in place by rivets, you need to drill them out and after you can remove the speaker. Keep also in mind to by the speaker without an integrated woofer because is located in the A pillar, however i've used Hertz dsk 165.3 but you need adaptor to fit the speaker and also to trim some plastic in the back of the door card, and to sound nicely you need a subwoofer. look for some pioneer or similar products.

many many years ago i swap the swing unit for an android one, look on aliexpress or ebay there is a lot of it for sale

P.S. if you check the spark plugs, keep in mind that they're long-life plugs good for about 35k miles, also is not expensive look to replace the coil pack; go for quality parts like NGK is a 5 minute job. Mine, after 11 years of life was misfiring randomly under load (acceleration) (with new spark plugs) without popping lights on the dash.

Yes the 1.2 TSI 86 bhp or the 105 bhp (same engine just different tune) come also with manual (on the fabia is a very funny engine even more if you tune it to 130bhp). Look also for fuel service history and very importantly, the dsg gearbox needs to be serviced every 40k miles. If you need anything, feel free to ask, i know this engine very well.

you can disconnect the siren, or better uncoding the alarm via vcds (also the low loudness is due probably to an old siren battery), however the first thing I would suggest to try is to switch off the volumetric system using the switch on thr b pillar, and see if it keep doing it.

Just to shoot some idea, fuel filter and injectors have been serviced? pertrol quality?

ok, you can try to disconnect the battery for like 10-15 minute connect it again and try (i don't it will solve but worth a try) more effective look behind the obd port for broken or sliced wire

Look at the video it's easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2CnIZrKuvc (it's for a polo but is the exact same on a fabia hatch or combi)

Vertically under the fuel cap go under the car the fuel filter is here you have to disconnect 3 fuel line keep in mind that some fuel will come out (not the whole tank just the one left in the fuel lane and the one in the filter) be sure to connect the line back where they were, 2 line that arrive from the front of the car (if I remember correctly one blue an one black) and one from the back of the car to the front (black)

happend the same to me (2013 fabia 1.2 tsi combi) it was the coil pack https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/032905106f-ignition-module-1-2tsi-1-4-16v-1-6-1-8-20v-2-0mpi-ngk-52273.html mine went ko after 11 years and 151k km

Do you have an aftermarket radio? like an android unit? If yes, it could be that the head unit is connected via can and taking priority of the can system and not allowing the obd reader to connect to the can line. This happened to me on a 2013 fabia while i was tuning the ecu and I wasn't able to connect via obd, disconnected the head unit and everything was working.

Generally when going for a larger rim the problem is also the clearance between tyre/rim and struts, try to look at the gap you currently have to see how much space you have look at this website It should be helpful https://www.willtheyfit.com/ This is what they say: Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 4.4mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 8.4mm more than before.

Maybe it was on for a long period someone instead of repair it decide to remove it and after it got repaired, and now there is some fault and the warning got back on, it could be a faulty lambda sensor you won’t notice that but in this case the air fuel ratio is lean and the engine ecu doesn’t like it and turn on the cel. My best advice is to scan it with an obd reader or something like vcds to have a deeper diagnosis.

So do you see the check engine light? Like the one you have attached in the post? Because that is the position of the check engine light, it could be like that because maybe the seller have tried to broke the led behind the warning, to see the light in that way you just need to remove the cluster open the transparent plastic is held in place by two clips and push a screw driver in it and after it got taped or painted and now that is faded you se that strange light. I'm strongly sure that is a CEL. That is the only position for that warning in all mk1 fabia

I probably know what it its, its a check engine light that have been ripped off. Look at the picture at the left of the hole for the gauge and upper of the odometer. You can confirm that by using a obd scanner. Also, did you recently buy the Fabia? or in general are you the first owner?

the abs sensor if faulty would trigger an abs light, my suggestion is to scan the fault with an obd reader or better with a vcds

The connector on the reservoir is the one that detects if the brake fluid is low, so if you disconnect it, it can't determine if there is any fluid and trigger the warning on the dash, and the brake warning light is the same for when the handbrake is engaged, so it seems normal to turn off the warning when the handbrake is not engaged.