Jack25

Yes @Warrior193 you're correct, i've seen the two fabia's But With mine 2013 mk2 1.2 tsi cbza i have 14.2 V idling until the subwoofer kicks in and the voltage drops to 13.9 V. While driving I have to check. (Currently I have a Varta D24 battery with this spec: 60 Ah, 540 A).

Absolutely true what @Breezy_Pete says, but remember (it happened to me after I forgot to plug the voltage regulator into the alternator) the amber light fault on the dash has different meanings: fault bulb or, for example, voltage regulator issue. So, if it is off, you are good. If one time it lights up, check the bulbs, and if they are all good, the next thing is the voltage regulator. If it does go wrong, there are possibilities that the ECU or the comfort unit can get fried due to exceeding voltage. In case you want to invest in VCDS, you will know about any faults (even those that do not have warnings on the dash, like the pressure sensor in the AC line if the AC gas is low).

280£ is reasonable; however, with my Octavia Scout 5E with the 2.0 TDI 184 bhp, the DSG oil change is mandatory every 60k km around 37k miles. Be careful because it can determine the life of the gearbox, and you will feel it in the not-smooth gear changes.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to understand exactly what I need to do in order to retrofit the rear electric windows in my 2013 Fabia Estate 1.2 TSI CBZA. Till now I've bought both rear door wiring and switches, driver door (LHD) windows switch assembly, and various pin connectors, all founded for very cheap around 50€. I'm taking suggestions from this topic, Now I'm waiting to purchase the driver door wiring loom for around 130 € shipped (I want to buy a new Skoda genune part i've already dealt whit broken wiring looms, and i don't want to purchase a used one) and both rear windows regulators and electric motor, (I've founded all this item used in really good condition for around 95€ shipped), but i've stopped the purchase because I'm struggling a bit to understand from where take the main feed (12V), the imput for the rear electric motors and the 12V to light for the retroillumination in the rear switches, I have all the electric scheme wich I'm tryng to study/understand but I'm not able to find a pinout for the comfort module to understand if i have the predisposition (wich pin to look at) or if i have to replace the unit (if is the right module to check for the LIN BUS feed); I've already retrofitted the CCS, but it was like 7 to 8 years ago, so I don't remember the exact OEM number of the comfort module (it is a genuine skoda part), but I believe it should have the predisposition for the rear electric windows; also on VCDS, I have the possibility to code the rear electric windows. Any help is very welcome. Thanks in advance.

If someone still has to replace the oil separator cover and needs some help, I've done it in September 2024; feel free to ask any question.

Hi everyone, I'm looking forward to do this retrofit in my 2013 Fabia wagon, and I've got some questions: -the door wiring loom is compatible between hatcback and combi? (with the same engine code even if it shouldn't be a difference?) -there is to add the extra 3 pins for each rear side (with switch illumination, power for electric motor, and Lin-bus connection) from the wire in the front window switch assembly; so if I'm not mistaken, before the "b" pillar pin connection, the cable with this output has to be "duplicated" in order to reach the other rear door and repeat the pin-adding process. Is that right? I'm wondering if there is some connection to add between the "a" pillar wiring (car wiring loom) and the new wiring loom in the driver door? (to "a" pillar to the big black connector with orange clip), or the difference is only in the connector window switch assembly? (Sorry for my bad English, haha) Thanks a lot.

Hi everyone I’m new I hoping that the new topic is not a problem however I’m replacing the front strut on my Fabia whit some koni sport code 8710 1404 sport I’ve been told by the local shop that they fit but at job almost done I realise I can’t put the top mount due to the short strut tread so I’m wondering if I can change the top mount setup from single bolt to the three bolt (by drilling the hole in the frame seem like there is the predisposition) what do you suggest? I will also try to contact the shop hoping I can return them even if the paint in one strut got damaged while installing it. Thanks in advance to anyone who will help. (The lat picture is the top mount which I’m thinking can be the right modification)