Jack25

yeah my bad, i assumed by the dedicated pin that the wiring was separate, it could be a joint point worth to check

According to the wiring diagram each abs sensor have its own wire without joint G44 Rear right speed sensor G45 Front right speed sensor G46 Rear left speed sensor G47 Front left speed sensor J104 ABS control unit J519 Onboard supply control unit N133 Rear right ABS inlet valve N134 Rear left ABS inlet valve N135 Rear right ABS outlet valve N136 Rear left ABS outlet valve T38a 38-pin connector

according to www.skoda-parts.com for my 2016 pre-facelif octavia 5E5 scout 2.0 tdi 184 bhp the oem p/n is front 5Q0 411 105 HS rear 5Q0 511 115 AL

The problem on the module is that the only one that is the airbag one and the instrument cluster; in this days I’m doing the retrofit of the climatronic and also the ecu is tuned, as long as you have a 1.2 tsi cbza with the exact same configuration I can gave you my coding but if you have like curtains airbag is a completely different coding because I don’t have that.

My seatbelt are the one in the picture

The error in the abs module is related to a low voltage condition wich means that the abs module isn't reciving enough power and the problem could be related to a blown fuse or a wiring damage

I'm retoftitting the climatronic in my 2013 fabia, trust me to reach the flap motor is a nightmare It’s in the blue area in the picture under the noise insulation In the red area is where the havc system takes the air and beside that there is the servo motor

I would start sayng that I own a 1.2 tsi estate tuned with revo software (stg.1) pushing around 140 bhp, if I may I would like to share my setup to be able to tell you how I've found the driving dynamic that I like. (all done in DIY) koni sport shock absorber (front and rear) they're stiff and with adjustable rebound all bushing (even the rear subframe one) are from strongflex and the're yellow polyurethane (90 shore stiffness) all the ultra-racing strut brace to add stifness really a game changer the rear anti roll bar from whiteline 21mm of diameter and adjustable in 3 way brake upgrade: braided brake line from HEL and front 312mm and rear 256mm vented disc (original one are 232mm solid) for the front you (and all the one who have 288mm disc) will need just the brake caliper holder from a mk1 audi tt 1.8t whit 312mm disc; for the rear you will need audi tt mk1 brake caliper or seat leon 1m1 (mk1) you will find them easier on the 4x4 version like tt 3.2 vr6 or leon cupra or syncro (1.9 tdi awd) but you will need these caliper holder https://www.ebay.it/itm/274167957844 (due to a difference in the offset in the holder for housing the rear drive shafts). keep in mind that with this brake setup the smallest rim that you can fit is 16' so you will have to replace the spare tyre tyre I can only fit 16' rim due to the law where I live and configuration of my fabia (started as an ambition but I've retrofitted everithing possible even oem front pdc even if they weern't optional), but I use Yokhoama Advan AD08RS 205/45/16 they're like glue even on really heavy rain, never felt safer like that with any other tyre. (montecarlo spring to lower just 15 mm not your situation you already have the Vrs one and the gearbox from a cbzb the 105 bhp version of the 1.2 tsi but again not your case) activated via vcds the XDS, is a electronic limited slip differential, basically with the abs sensor it sense the wheel wich is loosing traction in a corner and apply the brake to correct the trajectory, in the Vrs it should be already active but you can set in trhee different way: off, soft, and hard from factory it should be on soft, (in this early abs generation it work only on the front wheel the XDS+ works on all 4 wheel). not completly related to cornering capability but I use royal purple 5w40 vw502.00 and I replace it every 9k km (with all the filter fuel, oil, air, and cabin air filter) If I wil remember something else I will update the post

I'we linked the wrong website is: www.skoda-parts.com

try to register on skodaparts.com and using the VIN of your fabia look for the spare parts, you don't have to buy directly from them but you can use the part number compatible with your car and look them online

You have standard seats so you see only the yellow connector that is for the airbag in the side of the seats. Also the connector you have seen in the video are different in 2011 models onwards, those are tipically only in prefaceift mk2 fabia

If you have two different ecu there is a problem regarding the immobilizer which is stored in the cluster and engine ecu if they’re different you will not be able to start the car

it's maybe based on the conutry if i remeber correctly for the UK market was mandatory to have the DRL always on while the ignitoin was on and headlight off, but I could be wrong because I'm from Italy and I've read something about that here on Briskoda time ago

The first is for the DRL switch the second one is for the DRL bulb the third is for the steering angle sender If you want you can add the cornering function by making two differrent connections on the bcm (my fabia was already equipped whit DRL and switch so I've "retrofitted" the cornering function). like here: Corner funkcia (vozidlá od 2010-2015) – wirer.sk from @wirer

Switch E1 Light switch E579 Daytime running lights switch J519 Onboard supply control unit SB Fuse holder B SB17 Fuse 17 on fuse holder B SB21 Fuse 21 on fuse holder B T5f 5-pin connector T17a 17-pin connector T73a 73-pin connector T73b 73-pin connector B554 Connection (fog light), in main wiring harness * Only models with daytime running lights J519 Onboard supply control unit L174 Left daytime running light bulb L175 Right daytime running light bulb M51 Left static cornering light M52 Right static cornering light T73b 73-pin connector 374 Earth connection 9, in main wiring harness 379 Earth connection 14, in main wiring harness * Only models with daytime running lights G85 Steering angle sender J285 Control unit in dash panel insert J519 Onboard supply control unit K Dash panel insert K17 Fog light warning lamp T32a 32-pin connector T41a 41-pin connector T73b 73-pin connector 373 Earth connection 8, in main wiring harness B281 Positive connection 5 (15a) in main wiring harness B320 Positive connection 6 (30a) in main wiring harness B383 Connection 1 (powertrain CAN bus, high), in main wiring harness B390 Connection 1 (powertrain CAN bus, low), in main wiring harness

I use this https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008359081250.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.764duSlYuSlYdb&algo_pvid=79afd053-f1d6-4927-a3d5-eea1f0e81249&algo_exp_id=79afd053-f1d6-4927-a3d5-eea1f0e81249-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2284%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%218.84%218.19%21%21%2167.90%2162.91%21%402103894417804904251428137eb21f%2112000044712196560%21sea%21IT%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A1c0aa4c6%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=mBpjNR6n9vuk&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005008359081250%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

I agree the big connector seems like a sound system, look if you have canton sound system, the others, the yellow one for sure is the airbag, the oter two could be electric seat adjustment and heating and cooling seats look in the infotaiment if you have these optional. also the black plastic with the yellow connector (airbag) attaches to the bottom of the seat

With the. Amount of fluid lost did the reservoir got empty? Because in that case it could be necessary to bleed the abs module I suspect

driveshaft / cv joints do sound when you start driving at very low speed and turning (I've replacede some driveshaft in my fabia), stationary could be a worn top mount bearing

It's a CAVE manufactured: 18.10.2011, so no notorius timing chain issue, but could still be a timing chain problem, look if you can see in via vagcom the value in % for the timing chain elongation, the replacement value is 5%

true, but the car in his profile is a 2010 it could be a CTHE? However it could be a chat that is due for a replacement because Is stretched, in the picture there is the vin I could try to see which engine does it have

Before replacing the sensor look for ruined wire, vacum leak from intake to for exhample the brake booster or the pcv system, or it can be a timing issue, according to the notorius timing chain in these engine be sure is not that, also look at the MAP sensor if is clogged or similar.

I've routed mine where the air recirculation flap is (not tought it) there is a seal to push a little bit, after that I've sealed again the cable with some adhesive rubber. In my case I have a 10 mm thic cable for my subwoofer)

It’s a different and less sophisticated platform you can see the p/n 6Q0 is the one for like polo 9n3 and similar the more advanced network in the pq25 platform doesn’t allow a pairing like that