Jack25

sorry for my english, you can find charts like this one: You will need also a HEX-V2 interface, if you go the aliexpress route be sure to turn off the wifi or internet connection on the pc, every time the HEX-V2 interface is plugged to just the pc or the obd port (and the pc), otherwise the HEX-V2 will recognise the non original version of vcds and update the cable software making it unusable. (the chart works fine for my long coding i have abs/espp 8.2i exep after the 16byte i have additional 00 so maybe try to add it too)

I belive there is a good possibility to be trouble free when you will plug the old abs module back, online you can find the decoder of the long coding, currently I have to test a new one to see if it does work, if it does i will link it here so if there is any problem you can get your long coding back. Is not a good thing to say but you can find full vcds software on aliexpress, they will send you the file/online dowload and you will be good to go, i use that and i'm able to do everything

Theoretically, if you replace the ABS module, you need the long coding of the original module in order to know which options the car is equipped with. The module is also linked in part to the VIN. Once you disconnect it and try to connect another one and switch the ignition on, most probably you will lose the original coding. So I hope you did an autoscan with VCDS (it saves the coding on your PC). The same thing happens if you remove the original cluster and plug in a new one without coding it first (ask me how I know, haha). Basically, once you figure out your ABS issue, you will most likely need to code it back.

Reading other forum, have you tried to replace the turbo actuator? on the 1.2 tsi can cause the same issue that you have, I know they're two completely different engines, but the problem is the same. Also, is there someone local to you with vcds?

You're welcome, glad I could help!

Should be this

I've done this a week ago, you will need: airbag loom 5E0971584A in my case i have an elegance model and I've personally retroffitted the cruise control years ago ant i don't remember of a clockspring replacement 2x repair pin this one 00 979 009 E https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000979009e-cable-line-european-union-43850.html tap the pin in the stalk connector in the connector add pin 9 for 12V pin 10 LINBUS make sure to allign the repair pin correctly in the connector connection, route the LINBUS (this is how i've done it) to the passenger window LINBUS wire, is a gray-white wire if the color is a bit faded don't worry is the only one with that color the other one are completely different, you will find this wire in the passenger footwell btween the end of the dash and the end of the trim that cover the bottom part of the door-closing door area for the 12V I've taken it from the fuse n°22 is the one who power up the clockspring steering wheel you can actually buy every one with the same airbag shape of the one you already have, octavia mk3 normal, scout, vrs, sportline same for the superb mk3 steering wheel switch here the IMPORTANT PART you will need the switch from facelift Yeti around 2011-2014 to have compatibility and green backlight (if you use superb or octavia switch you will have the switch to act crazy like you can only turn the volume up but to lower it you need to press the volume control knob ecc. ?ive tryed this). switch like thise https://ovoko.it/parte/dze13815-5l0419091g-skoda-yeti-5l-volante (the sale here is for the wheel to) since you're doing the retrofit there is no point to get the steering wheel with the switch only on the left side, the only thing that will not work with a full switch steering wheel will be the cluster knob because like me you have the greendot cluster KEEP IN MIND: the retrofit is possible with mid or high bcm version I have the 6R7937087P Also you will need to code the multi function steering wheel in the bcm via vcds (i don't know if obd11 can do it) Also the Yeti switch that you will need are exactly the one in the picture, if you use the one with the adas icon in the right side of the wheel they will not work properly like said before in for the volume control also the rapid wheel is compatible but the switch backlight I belive is all white Off topic, I’ve done a lot of retrofit like electric rear window front headlight washer heated seats heated windshield nozzle jets cornering light via fogliht and currently working on front and rear pdc and esp 9.0i if you need help fell free to ask

In my case I've retrofittet to a 2016 octavia scout the front pdc system without any issue and also on a fabia mk2 heated seats, complete front+rear pdc (from an mk2 octavia) and headlight washer, and I've purchased all the wiring from kufatec, total of 7 wiring looms (the pdc bumper from te mk2 octavia are original skoda). I was thinking maybe in non UE countrys they have someone else to do their wiring but is not you're case because you're in Austria.

if it can help

Ah ok got it, I use the software that I have, so i've never experienced that part

Absolutely non true in my experience, I’ve done a tons of retrofit and never had any issues with them, they use only original parts

HI, look at this pictures https://ovoko.it/parte/eca41736-jxy-skoda-fabia-mk2-5j-scatola-del-cambio-manuale-a-5-velocita?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&campaign_id=23096212051&gad_adgroup_id=&gad_creative=&gad_keyword=&gad_network=x&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23086195332&gclid=CjwKCAiAqprNBhB6EiwAMe3yhim8HtxCP2hzTqRMJGr-ZPfaAucsHhhO-Zwv9aLmmXpfr4QmurT3cRoC3ecQAvD_BwE https://ovoko.it/parte/lgn303313-jxz-skoda-roomster-5j-scatola-del-cambio-manuale-a-5-velocita?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&campaign_id=23531690110&gad_adgroup_id=193277974272&gad_creative=795720811617&gad_keyword=&gad_network=g&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23531690110&gclid=CjwKCAiAqprNBhB6EiwAMe3yhkMDGog31evtIhwR-CdljB8nXmOe0s89ml5GPxNZCjL1ZiSv5EY05xoCoUsQAvD_BwE the bolt patterns are the same, i've done this on my 2013 fabia 1.2 tsi from a mfx to a lmg gearbox looking at the picture everything is the same even the clutch fork for the pressure plate. Personal suggestion buy cv grease and new gasket btween the diff output shaft and the driveshaft, also replace the oil till the gearbox is on the ground, is easier to remove all te old oil, if you're doing the job yourself, use an engine stand similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374957660842 is a game changer, also you don't have to drain the gearbox oil in order to remove it because it's sealed. A usefull video for a DIY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAckIDFUVfM&list=LL&index=14&t=1637s personally i've founded easyer than the video first time that I've done it it took me 6h without big trouble to complete everything

My bad, could be this? https://kufatec.com/en/front-camera-for-driver-assistance-systems-mqb-version-1/40003 in the accessories menu there is the needed wiring

This equipment is what you will need: https://kufatec.com/en/lane-change-assistant-including-exit-assistant-for-skoda-octavia-5e/43055

you're welcome, glad I could help!

here you can see a tsi vrs https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517033-what-does-your-engine-look-like/ you can tell is a TSI by the ignition coil, and it dosen't have the diesel filter on the left lower corner

I suspect from that fuel filter that is a diesel model look at this https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5q0127400f-fuel-filter-holder-tdi-skoda-25673.html and also this is the engine bay from my 2016 octavia (it's a scout but with the 2.0L tdi CUNA 184 bhp)

Look for a broken wire in the tailgate wire groomet, according to the wiring scheme, the license light should have 2 different wire for the power, one for each light. (i've looked at the one of the fabia, later i will look on elsawin for the roomster), but i belive is something similar,

you're welcome, i have the same engine 1.2 TSI (at the end of the day the front end frame and components of the roomster is the same as the same period fabia). if you need any other help feel free to ask.

Even the heater? try to look if you have power at this fuse, they are related to the heater; just to understand if there is any power.

It could be a high-pressure fuel pump hose that is broken or loose, or the high-pressure fuel pump leaking. Look for the fuel pipe in the engine bay. (I have a 2013 Fabia, but it is LHD); you will see 2 plastic pipes that go to the high-pressure fuel pump. In my case, they're located in front of the air inlet for the A/C. If it is a HPFP, look at the oil and check if it smells like fuel. If it does, the O-ring that seals it is leaking into the oil pan, diluting the oil, and it can destroy the engine due to a bad lubrication from the oil. Or maybe a leaky injector; they have O-rings too, and they're placed basically under the intake manifold, but without seeing the car, a correct diagnosis is difficult to do.

The steering wheel connector is a one-piece 41-pin plug, so it would be a bigger problem involving the airbag light, no high beam (flash or fixed), etc. I'm not saying that isn't possible, but instead of being unplugged, it could be some broken wires maybe. (It looks like the picture, it's gray, and it connects behind the stalks)

Ah okok got it

Be careful in switching bmc around because it can loose the pairing between bcm and the remote (append to me) the pairing is easy but software like vcds is needed. The bcm does have the same part number?

ok, could be a broken wire while refitting the harness?, or a ground in the b pillar, in order to se that you need to remove te b-pillar trim cover in the car, is very easy just some metal clip tht have to be pulled, i'm currentlly looking at the wiring diagram, the common things are that: they all work via lin-bus and are routed to the bcm, the power come from the fusebox, and that they comunicate via the clockspring; so no power issue from the fusebox easy check whit a multimeter, lin-bus issiue a good look at the door wiring loom and for the clockspring a scan via a software like vcds. also all the plug inside the door are connected propperly? the door handle is quite hard to reach maybe some wire got damaged. To fully test the door wiring harness use the mutineer in continuity test between all the pin in the various plug