Jack25

Wow, if the relay is good at this point, the next thing I can think is using vcds with that AC button flashing maybe disconnecting the battery for one hour or so to try to 'hard rest it'?

Ok i've found also this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506229-another-air-con-threadsorry/ For the flashing button i've read online for different cars but with the same outcome faulty ac compressor (not your case) or faulty relay worth to test it Edit: stupid question the AC compressor connector is plugged-in correctly?

Hi, out of curiosity, have you tried like in this forum? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/514487-ac-compressor-automatic-first-run-in-adapt/ Citing from the link: Start the car. Press and hold the AC and rear defrost button for a few seconds till they all light up. Leave it like this for 2 minutes then restart the car. fault should now clear. i know the thread is from a superb mk3 but i believe it is worth a try? And also give a try to the reset of the flap? Another question when you re-gassed the ac system did you ask for a leak tracer fluid?

Thank you Adrian, for curiosity did the throttle body ever get cleaned and then recalibrate via vag software? Maybe it is worth a shot; It is a very easy job. Maybe there is deposit or dirt and the ecu can't close it properly, causing the ecu to throw codes? (it could almost justify the incorrect fuelling warning) or a faulty lambda sensor (on a friend of mine before letting me look at his fiat punto his mechanic replaced all the LPG system and the check engine was still on I've replaced just the lambda sensor and the error went away, 5 months and a lot of kms later and still good); also for your mechanic friend I attempt to suggest that is worth testing the relay related to the ecu / engine just for safety. Giacomo

Another way is to use skodaparts.com website and, via VIN, you have all the compatible parts for your car (and also, if you have questions, they answer them really fast). In really no time you will have the right part number. Basically, it is a free vin decodifier, and you can choose where to buy your parts once you have the pr number.

Hi, out of curiosity, can I ask you which engine you have? Also, is it possible that some fluid has found a way into the ecu and corroded it? Just a shooting idea (if the ecu has to get changed) also as a scan app for daily driving on my Fabia I use 'car scanner' on my android radio (works fine on iOS too) to monitor things like coolant temp, speed via GPS, engine load, and other important (to me) parameters, but for deep scanning I use VCDS (official vag software on PC). If you find someone local to you with the software, you can easily address the problem. VCDS does read more faults than a common OBD reader and errors that don't have a warning light, like low pressure in the AC system and a lot more. Giacomo

You're welcome, happy to help. You can try to ask that company and see what they say, and if they give you any part number or idea of what you need, you can look for them used on eBay or a local scrapyard. For the cluster function on the VCDS "home page" there is the cluster menu called 17 - Instrument. In my Fabia (I've done a lot of upgrades and retrofits like rear electric windows), for example, I've managed to modify the service interval from 15k km to 10k km (I prefer to do the service earlier to preserve the timing chain and general engine life) and also to enable the washer fluid warning light (one wire to the cluster and the sensor in the washer bottle), and enabling the liter of fuel that is needed to fill up or needle sweep. That's just for the cluster. I don't have the Maxidot, so the functions are a bit limited. You can also look for other modules, especially for the comfort module / central electrics, to enable other functions like opening the window by pressing the unlock button on the keyfob and things like that, also in the abs module I'm not sure if you have a newer gen of abs unit, but you can try to look for tpms (it uses the abs sensor to determine the tire rotation to detect if all the wheel are rotating the same way if not there is an air leak and the warning light turn on but the only way to reset it is via vcds or retroffitting the switch) and also automatic hill hold if you are stopped up hill or down hill while having clutch and brake pressed the car stay stand still for about 3 to 4 second allowing you to move without the handbrake method (I've learned that way, but some electronic helping is not always bad). For the temperature depends on whether there is a thermometer (installed probably yes) and for fuel consumption, I believe it is possible.

Thank you, (I've run the VIN via skodaparts to check the components). Judging just by the number of pins between your steering unit 1K0 953 549 DA and the other available (medium and high versions), there are a lot of pin differences. I've found this website that sells the CC retrofit kit where you can ask for info about: https://wibutec-shop.com/Retrofit-kit-GRA-cruise-control-system-Skoda-Octavia-1Z-from-02-2004-to-05-2010 If you enter your VIN code, the price will go up to €364 because you don't have a multi-function display, which is related to the steering module (cruise control MFSW, etc.), so I believe the retrofit kit will include the module, stalk and wiring. Also, considering the fact that you have access to VCDS, see if you can enable it just out of curiosity, but I am really sure that it will not work.

Hi, to be completely sure, I advise you to do a complete autoscan via VCDS to determine which module and unit you have and determine what parts you will need (for example, there are two types of stalks, one composed of two singular stalks, and in this case, the needed one is just the left, and the other case is just a single assembly) just to understand how to proceed. Because looking online, it seems for the mid and high trim, the stalk replacement and coding are all that are needed, but I believe in your case, also some wiring will be needed. Online, and on Briskoda, there are a lot of guides. For example, here there is some useful info: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/307988-retrofitting-cruise-control/?fromsearch=1

Append to me. Years ago, in a previous car, I was finding water in the spare wheel area (under the boot floor). I've fixed it by removing the boot seal, cleaning it with a brush and universal degreaser, with a pair of pliers, "closing" the rubber part that goes on the metal lip and filling it with silicone. I've never ever had an issue come back (and yes, you're able to remove the seal after I've done it).

Can confirm that even on skodaparts, checking by the VIN, the OEM code that comes out if searched on the internet all says 14.5 V set point.

Yes @Warrior193 you're correct, i've seen the two fabia's But With mine 2013 mk2 1.2 tsi cbza i have 14.2 V idling until the subwoofer kicks in and the voltage drops to 13.9 V. While driving I have to check. (Currently I have a Varta D24 battery with this spec: 60 Ah, 540 A).

Absolutely true what @Breezy_Pete says, but remember (it happened to me after I forgot to plug the voltage regulator into the alternator) the amber light fault on the dash has different meanings: fault bulb or, for example, voltage regulator issue. So, if it is off, you are good. If one time it lights up, check the bulbs, and if they are all good, the next thing is the voltage regulator. If it does go wrong, there are possibilities that the ECU or the comfort unit can get fried due to exceeding voltage. In case you want to invest in VCDS, you will know about any faults (even those that do not have warnings on the dash, like the pressure sensor in the AC line if the AC gas is low).

280£ is reasonable; however, with my Octavia Scout 5E with the 2.0 TDI 184 bhp, the DSG oil change is mandatory every 60k km around 37k miles. Be careful because it can determine the life of the gearbox, and you will feel it in the not-smooth gear changes.

Hi everyone, I'm trying to understand exactly what I need to do in order to retrofit the rear electric windows in my 2013 Fabia Estate 1.2 TSI CBZA. Till now I've bought both rear door wiring and switches, driver door (LHD) windows switch assembly, and various pin connectors, all founded for very cheap around 50€. I'm taking suggestions from this topic, Now I'm waiting to purchase the driver door wiring loom for around 130 € shipped (I want to buy a new Skoda genune part i've already dealt whit broken wiring looms, and i don't want to purchase a used one) and both rear windows regulators and electric motor, (I've founded all this item used in really good condition for around 95€ shipped), but i've stopped the purchase because I'm struggling a bit to understand from where take the main feed (12V), the imput for the rear electric motors and the 12V to light for the retroillumination in the rear switches, I have all the electric scheme wich I'm tryng to study/understand but I'm not able to find a pinout for the comfort module to understand if i have the predisposition (wich pin to look at) or if i have to replace the unit (if is the right module to check for the LIN BUS feed); I've already retrofitted the CCS, but it was like 7 to 8 years ago, so I don't remember the exact OEM number of the comfort module (it is a genuine skoda part), but I believe it should have the predisposition for the rear electric windows; also on VCDS, I have the possibility to code the rear electric windows. Any help is very welcome. Thanks in advance.

If someone still has to replace the oil separator cover and needs some help, I've done it in September 2024; feel free to ask any question.

Hi everyone, I'm looking forward to do this retrofit in my 2013 Fabia wagon, and I've got some questions: -the door wiring loom is compatible between hatcback and combi? (with the same engine code even if it shouldn't be a difference?) -there is to add the extra 3 pins for each rear side (with switch illumination, power for electric motor, and Lin-bus connection) from the wire in the front window switch assembly; so if I'm not mistaken, before the "b" pillar pin connection, the cable with this output has to be "duplicated" in order to reach the other rear door and repeat the pin-adding process. Is that right? I'm wondering if there is some connection to add between the "a" pillar wiring (car wiring loom) and the new wiring loom in the driver door? (to "a" pillar to the big black connector with orange clip), or the difference is only in the connector window switch assembly? (Sorry for my bad English, haha) Thanks a lot.

Hi everyone I’m new I hoping that the new topic is not a problem however I’m replacing the front strut on my Fabia whit some koni sport code 8710 1404 sport I’ve been told by the local shop that they fit but at job almost done I realise I can’t put the top mount due to the short strut tread so I’m wondering if I can change the top mount setup from single bolt to the three bolt (by drilling the hole in the frame seem like there is the predisposition) what do you suggest? I will also try to contact the shop hoping I can return them even if the paint in one strut got damaged while installing it. Thanks in advance to anyone who will help. (The lat picture is the top mount which I’m thinking can be the right modification)