OccyVRS

Again, make sure the G13 is swapped for G12 EVO. I would personally just get a new resevoir too - they can be had for £40.

Most of these issues are to do with MIB3, which is pretty rubbish. I have no real issues with MIB2.5, aside from the occasional CarPlay glitch. Certainly, it wouldn't stop me from getting one. The EA888.3 has the usual water pump issues. As long as any car you get has had the DSG done at 40k and the VAQ done at 20-30k (if the car is over that) then you should be fine. The DQ381 has it's fair share of issues too, but I've found mine to be very reliable. The boot vents can sometimes leak, as in my Leon, but this is a £40 fix. Likewise with the pan roof becoming blocked. I've found mine likes to ruin it's tracking quite quickly, which is an issue with these cars. The only two real issues I've had to sort have been replacing a rear caliper (paint flaking - you can just use hammerite) and getting a vibration with the Soundaktor sorted. Any issue with these cars are shared across the MQB range, so there are plenty of people documenting them.

I still would get an Octavia. I was meaning even now, I'd still go Mk3.5 over Mk4 (or 4.5). I am quite young (as in, take the median age of this forum, halve it, and you probably can still take five from that), but I absolutely love my car. There are faster, bigger, cooler, more practical, better driving and better quality cars out there, but for the money I don't think you can beat the Octavia vRS. I was considering a GTI (230 and PP), Cupra (ST and hatch), S3, R, JCW and others. Okay, so one of the main reasons for choosing an Octavia was the lower insurance, but I'm still extremely happy with my choice. I drive up to Scotland a few times a year, and recently did it in one fourteen hour hop. The car was amazing. It drove itself most of the way there, being comfortable and having enough space for all our stuff. Once up there, it was put into sport mode and came alive. Okay, it was mapped then (330bhp ish) but it just drives so well. Okay, sure, the road noise isn't the best due to the crappy insulation, and a GTI/JCW/Cupra/etc will all be so much more engaging to drive - but that's missing the point. The Octavia is the most well-rounded of the bunch. I was recently in an I30N - in a foreign non-extradition country. Several times we were well into triple digits, and all I could think was 'this feels so planted, but I'd hate to go anywhere in it'. I think it's one of the first fast FWD hatches I've been in (besides Occy) and the comparison was interesting. Afterwards, while a tiny part of me was longing for the bucket seats and ASBO (factory) exhaust, I just couldn't shake the feeling that I'd made the right choice with the vRS. It might not have been quite as fast, or as engaging, but it would have been a lot more comfortable and done it all with everything but the kitchen sink in the boot. I think that sums up the Octavia vRS quite well. If I were to do it now, with insurance being a lesser factor, I would probably push to get a Cupra ST. I love my Octavia and with the LSD it does such a good job of putting the power down, but you just can't beat AWD. In the winter I do notice it, but how often are you trail braking into and booting it around a dual carriageway roundabout? That being said, again, I am saying this from someone probably a lot younger than you, with a very different set of requirements. During my search, I test drove both a GTI PP and an R. Strangely (well, quite commonly after looking online) I much preferred the GTI. It wasn't that I didn't like the R - I did, it was very quick and got off the line instantly - it's just, the FWD with the diff felt more engaging. Less secure, sure, but more fun. I could see the AWD getting a bit boring, unless you were regualrly doing silly speeds. Similarly, I liked the Mk3.5 better than the Mk4 I drove. It felt a bit more analog - in the Mk4, I felt like the front wheels weren't connected to the wheel. I vastly prefer the feel of Skoda over SEAT/Cupra (I've had both), and think a vRS hatch is just something a little different. It almost feels like an IYKYK car, much like an M340i or Polestar V60. I also like that, around town, the car feels like a minicab. It is quiet, smooth and draws no attention. It's only when I put my foot down do I remember why I bought the car! I hope I've given you something to work with, from a purely performance/driving standpoint. In terms of 'normal' stuff, um... I get around 38mpg long term, the seats are quite comfortable, there's plenty of space to store things and the controls are easy to use. I'm sure others will be along to offer more. What don't I like? Well, aside from my strange spec with no power mirrors or heated seats, there isn't that much. The sound deadening/sound system is pretty rubbish, but that's an issue across SEAT/Cupra. Likewise, the infotainment can be a bit crap, but that's an issue across VAG, along with the hateful Soundaktor. The ACC is rather good, but if a car turns off in front of you, Occy will 'see' it for a bit longer, causing you to brake when there is nobody in front of you. Aside from that, and looking at specific Octavia issues - I don't like that the interior lights are different colours, I hate how cheap the door cards are, I wish it had an EPB and full LED rear lights. Performance wise, I also wish it had the same exhaust as the GTI - the Octavia version is totally silent, along with some slightly stiffer rear springs, a beefier RARB and the same aux/DSG cooler setup as on the more powerful MQB cars. All in all, I am very happy with Occy. I wouldn't change it, and it's the first car I've really liked as more than a lump of metal. Other cars do certain things better, but the Octavia just does everything really well.

Induction, ECU/TCU tune, stiffer RARB and some stiffer rear springs. I'd also like to look at the exhaust and change the tyre/wheel sizes (coming soon...).

My Mk3 manual is from here.

I can hear a noise around 0:04, but this sounds like it could be anything from the turbo to the transmission. Does it do it when stationary? Are you able to video it from outside the car?

Eh? Do you mean to ask if the front doors on the estate are the same as the hatch? In which case, yes.

Service mode is only for the EPB.

Around 100k it is a good idea to change the oil in a DQ200. There are two - the oil in the gearbox itself, and then the MCU.

Yes - I wouldn't be looking to compare a PFL Mk3 to a PFL Mk4 - there's just too much difference (not to mention the ten years or so inbetween them). As an aside, you can see the comparison between the Mk4 PFL and FL here. Just like the 3 to 3.5, most of the differences are under the hood. I should also explain that my Occy is almost the best of both worlds - for me, anyway. Among other things, it has the digi dash and ACC, along with TSR. I get nice features, along with a slightly nicer driving feel. Of course, I also get phyiscal knobs, and the ability to turn all the safety stuff off - permanently. Had I not been able to find one with the digi dash, I would have likely dug around for a Mk4. I just, personally, really dislike the Mk3.5 analog gauges. That said, I also sort of hate the Christmas tree lighting in my car now - I have the 2000s green switchgear lighting, the white infotainment and then the modern digi dash. It does clash a little bit. Whoever specced my car also didn't tick power fold mirrors, which annoys me too. The interior of the Mk4 is absolutely streets ahead - it's my only gripe with my car, really (beside the tail lights). The newer model has alcantara and such, whereas mine is nasty plastic. Similarly, the new model is full LED with a rear light design from this decade, whereas the half LED/half halogen setup on my car looks like they took it from a Mk1 Fabia. There are bigger issues, but every time I see a 7.5 GTI I do long for some nicer rear lights. In terms of the headlights, it depends. If you look at the Matrix unit of a Mk4, you will see two units (almost like eyes). By comparison, by car only has one of these units, with the rest of the full beam coming from a different unit in the smaller split headlight. I personally think the Mk3.5 are more than enough - although I do wish I had HBA (High Beam Assist). On a dual carriageway I find full beam too bright, as it reflects too strongly off of signs. Up in the north of Scotland, I find them more than enough too, at whatever speed I'm travelling at. That being said, they aren't a Matrix system. If headlights are the most important factor for you, then get a Mk4. i weighed up the differences and decided that a better driving experience, with favourable controls and looks outweighed spending an extra £5,000 on a Mk4 (this was early last year). If I were to choose an Octavia again, I'd still get a 3.5 with options.

All 245s have the VAQ. FL 230s do not have it. The PFL 230 did have it, as the PFL was split 220/230 rather than the FL 230/245 - although the PFL230 came quite late. Looking at a 230 vs a 245, the latter has the LSD, larger brakes and a bit more power. IMO, it's worth it for the LSD alone. I debated a Mk4 vs a Mk3.5 for a long time. I liked the Mk4 interior and Matrix headlights, but preferred the look oif the Mk3.5 and how it felt to drive. Ultimately, I couldn't stand the touch buttons, so went for the latest model 3.5 (Jan 2020) I could find. I don't regret it.

I agree. If you have to ask, you can’t do it. That being said, the engine comparison is oranges and apples. They’re completely different engines - while a PDXXX (Pumpe Duse) unit is bombproof, the later Common Rail units aren’t exactly known for their unreliability. Equally, the 1.9TDI does have some issues (well, later ones did AFAIK) but the 1.6TDI has a DPF and other fun things that go wrong.

The thing is, this will be my last car with buttons. I just couldn't justify the extra £4,500 for a car I liked less! Could be worse, could be like a Polo hire car I had, with stupid touch sensitive steering wheel buttons.

My vRS is, again, the most well-rounded and balanced car I've driven. @Ootohere will confirm, but I think aside from the annual servicing, the only think you need to check out is that the VAQ (differential) was serviced at 20,000 miles. The engine cover was VAG wide - bit annoying but is what it is. Ditto with MIB3. I wanted a Mk4 for the Matrix and better interior. I bought a Mk3.5 for everything else. I just couldn't get on with the lack of buttons. Mine does have the digi dash and everything.

What year are you looking at? Mine is a very late model Mk3.5 (2020). I spent long and hard deciding over a 3.5 or a 4 - both have their merits.

You can disabled them with an OBD tool (OBD11 on Amazon) but, as I said above, just turn the headlights manually off (as opposed to auto) and they won't activate. I turn mine off whenever I clean my windscreen, as I hate the headlight washers - I just haven't gotten around to disabling them yet. Personally, unless it is absolutely necessary, I'd try not to use any of the washers. I think you'll survive with a cloth and some spray at services. I would get some clear Gorilla tape too - you don't want the tape to break down in the sun or rain on the trip.

Potentially! I thought you were making comment on how I was having a discussion on the price/availability of Skoda parts, on a post about removing the bumper and assessing the damage. If not, then I apologise 😂 It's been a long few days struggling to finish my masters thesis, so I'm probably misreading what you said.

Huh? You are literally the one that brought up the price of parts -

Not at all - as you say, having a complete thread is absolutely fantastic. There is nothing worse than finding a Reddit post about your exact problem, ten years ago, and then nothing afterwards😂

skoda-parts.com is Cz - they get their stuff straight from the factory down the road, AFAIK. Weird.

Be advised that, for whatever reason the lighter oil was specified, some engines are optimised to run on it. I have a DKTB EA888.3 that runs on 0W-20 - bearing tolerances and a variable speed oil pump mean running a heavier oil might not actually be the best thing for it. Traditionally yes, a lighter oil offers less protection at operating temp. However, with tighter bearing tolerances and a pump designed to keep a thinner oil at higher pressure, all around the engine, from what I've seen the effect is the same. Advice from various places is to stick with manufacturer recommendations, unless heavily tuned. If the car is designed/recommended to run on 5W-30, why change it? Most people have issue with the viscosity when cold (0W). VW 504/507 was 5W-30, seems now it has changed to 0W-30.

As above, if a garage/dealer is suggesting they need replacing, find a new one!

Is that an FL LED unit? I’m seeing the following - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e1941016e-led-headlamp-right-complete-skoda-30628.html For my Mk3 Leon, genuine from SEAT headlights were £1,200 each. I just assumed similar.

These things happen. The first thing I would do is get some clear Gorilla tape to seal over the damaged fog light. This will stop any water ingress. Then, take a look underneath/through the engine bay/through the towing eye hole and make sure that the bumper is securely on - I.E. no major cracks, no majorly damaged fixings. Looking at the damage you should be okay, but it pays to check. Similarly, inspect behind the bumper and make sure nothing is damaged - again, doubt it, but do check. Regarding the headlight washer, my honest solution would be to plug the end, cover in Gorilla tape and zip tie somewhere out of the way. If you turn the headlights to off, the headlight washers will not activate, at any point. Hopefully someone can advise on whether fixing the washer nozzle properly is a viable option. If I'm honest, with potential damage to the bumper, I'd be inclined to seal the washer system off, apply tape, and drive the car as normal. FYI - most dealers can get parts next day. I would be more interested in replacing the fog light on Friday (it can be done with the bumper on), in order to safeguard the electrical system. The washer, IMO, is a nonissue. I've had an arch liner crack into four pieces the day before a France trip, and the battery die on my Octavia a week before a Scotland trip. It's sods law, but you'll make it. My plan would be to make sure the car is structurally sound, then electrically sound, and then worry about the washer. Look at the silver lining - you are very fortunate you didn't crack the headlight! Those things are expensive.

@barcudcoch light misting is very normal with VAG. I would assume over half VWAG cars have 'light misting of oil' on their MOT sheets. Misting is different to leaking. Leaking means you need new shocks, misting means your shocks have oil in them and are working. As @Paws4Thot says, MOT testers write so many things as an advisory - under trays, tyres, pads, wipers, rust, wear and tear - the list goes on. Ignore it, move on. Problem solved.