aubrey

You need to confirm that 75%, 35k is not that much for rear discs. I can understand the front but not the rear needing replacement at 35K. You can normally feel the ridge on the outside of the disc to see how much wear, that's checkable with the wheels on with many alloys . My bet is they are 25% worn and still have 75% service left. If that is the case then they would not need replacing now. I've had garages badly overestimate wear, not sure if they are trying to get work. But I've been told pads need changing when there was loads of material left. Hence best to always check yourself.

Permitted zones are 15cm in the corners and horizontal/vertical to an accessory outlet (socket/light switch etc). These are the standard wiring regs. So In general you would come up straight into a network port back box, so that comes under the normal horizontal/vertical to an outlet rule. There is no need to earth conduit. I would recommend the use of plastic oval conduit as it makes running the cable in and more so pushing excess down as the front plate is screwed on easier, but there are no rules there, you can just plaster in the cable as is if you want. But as said I would always recommend oval pvc conduit. According to BS7671 Wiring regs low voltage wiring should be run separately to your LV Mains cabling, in practice that means don't run both in the same conduit or strap together. You need to think where you network switch will be located, and run all the cables to/from that point. The normal network connection in this country is 568-B. So you would krone both ends to 568B. Normally to a patch panel at the network switch location. I used a 9U 19" Network cabinet in my side room for my network switch, but that cabinet also contains a network NAS drive, media server and ADSL Router. Don't forget the network run to your router or the ADSL BT run to the master socket depending on where you plan the router position. You state about coming down walls, considering the outlets would be nearer the bottom it is far simpler to come up from under the floor. My 1930's house had a top to bottom gap in the side of the chimney breasts, I think designed for central heating pipes. But it meant I could bundle all my network cables together with tie wraps and run down that channel. Or make a new bigger channel floor to ceiling in the corner to bring all the cables down in one go. You will then find going up into each room from the floor easier that coming down to each separate outlet. You say an old house so I'm assuming floor boards and not a solid concrete floor. Coming all the way down to almost floor level, although allowed by regs is not good practice as if the cable run was not considered in the future it could be drilled though. Switch drops to light switches normally come downwards but socket outlet run upwards. Your network outlets I would imagine would also be low and hence run upwards would be better. I would not consider running outside and in, that is messy, would look bad and be open to the environment/corrosion. (I do have C&G 2382 and 2391 so am aware of BS7671)

Just re-read your message. I replaced the door side. Are you writing about the main car side ? Sorry I have not done that side but it would not surprise me once you start exposing things you will find a part number written on what you currently have.

I would say they supplied the wrong door loom then. There are many options. I have done this. The best way to order the correct door loom is to use the number on the white label on your current door loom, that is the VW Part Number. To get to that you remove the elbow rest (screws), click off the door card, remove the plastic door liner (I just pulled mine back as much as I needed to access), drill the rivets off the speaker to remove that. Then it is pretty obvious and as said the part number will be on your current loom. I remember I was driving round for a couple of weeks with all that removed, using a pair of mole grips on the cable to open the door, while I waited for the replacement loom to turn up. You need 4 large pop-rivets when replacing the speaker.

That's not the Speedo reading, close but not exactly the same number

Works fine on mine: Saturday,29,May,2021,12:12:33:45213 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows XP x86 VCDS Version: 20.4.1.0 Data version: 20200331 DS317.0 www.Ross-Tech.com Mileage: 46030km-28601mi Repair Order

I did and found the Aircon had no pressure. Would I of checked the Aircon otherwise ? As expected it didn't work. Post purchase interestingly a regas lasted a few years no problems before the car was sold on anyway It's also handy for checking the ECU Mileage is close to the dashboard reading, so no clocking red flags

Its Stop Start batteries that often need coding, does the car have that ? Ahh just read read - it doesn't, that's why then

If you ever decide to change your battery then Tayna do good AGM replacements. AGM is better than EFB and don't cost that much more. You would need to code your new battery to the car but I can help you with that as I have VCDS. I see you state Enfield as your address, well I'm only in Newbury Park, Ilford so not far away.

The manual says P21W if not the led type. The led type it says that the brake and parking lights are integrated into the housing and not individually replaceable,

I put one of those Android units in when I had my Roomster. That gave me DAB and SatNav. I had to swap the rear roof antenna for a DAB antenna but that worked fine for me. When I sold it I gave the removed Swing unit too, just incase the new owner wanted to put it back to original. It did the Parking sensor display fine, picked up the data from the CanBus.

Hot made no difference, but putting the car level did. My front only has a slight slope, down on the battery side, but that made 300ml difference. So I vacuumed a bit out and now it's sitting towards the top of the hash area, with say a mm spare, when hot, level and rested for 5 mins. I won't make that mistake again. So it seems 3.9L is correct.

Yes, it was cold. I've never done an oil change and had to measure hot. In that case maybe I should vacuum some out.

Did my first oil + filter swap on my Yeti yesterday. Reading up beforehand loads of tables had 3.9L, so I thought my 4L purchase would be fine. But after a drain plug drain, I poured all 4L in and it only just showed on the lower end of the hash area on the dipstick. Got another 4L the next day and it probably took another 100-200ml to settle at the top of the hashed area. So that's around 4.1 to 4.2 litres. Am I missing something here ? It doesn't matter too much and I'll know in future but why do the tables say 3.9L ?

Out of interest I just looked at the Yeti service manual and it states to prebleed the ABS you open both nipples together and OBD do Basic Settings once done. The instructions say : A pre-pressure of 0.2 MPa (2 bar) is required to bleed the brake system. – Unscrew cap -1- from the brake fluid reservoir – Connect the thread plug -1- of the brake filling and bleeding device e.g. -VAS 5234- to the brake fluid reservoir. – Provide a suitable catch pan for used brake fluid. 1. Bleed the front left and front right brake calipers at the same time. 2. Bleed the rear left and rear right brake calipers/cylinders at the same time. – Allow brake fluid to drain until even the smallest air bubbles have escaped. – Initiate basic setting ⇒ Vehicle diagnostic tester. – Then perform normal bleeding

I've had similar issues on a Roomster. So some tests: 1) With the engine off if you push the brake down once hard and release, then repush hard - it should be hard with the pedal stuck high up and no creep downwards with sustained hard pressure. 2) Keeping the pressure on the pedal then start the engine. The pedal should drop down a little and then still remain firm. My Roomster on test 2) the pedal almost went to the floor. It was due to air in the ABS and I had to do the ABS bleed procedure with VCDS. After bleeding the ABS all was perfect, note a normal brake bleed would not of cleared the ABS of air on that model. I'm unsure if the Yeti ABS unit has a similar procedure or it will air bleed using a normal pressure bleeder.

I'll be interested if it's still working 6 months later. As I wrote earlier I had lots of issues with non VW (expensive) parts. Yes they always worked, but failed again a few months later. I was getting tired, although very skilled, at taking the rear bumper off and on. So post an update to confirm they carry on working.

That's a word I haven't heard in years, a bit like people always called the capacitor on points a condenser. Is there a difference between a rheostat and a potentiometer or variable resistor ? Anyway dimming is done by Pulse Width Modulation, PWM, now as it is more efficient and does not waste energy in heat on a resistance. So it makes sense that any replacement led lamps have to be as they mark them dimmable.

What new sensors are you buying ? I ask because I had very similar problems with my Roomster. I replaced sensors with ones I got from eBay and had continuing problems. I finally replaced with VW Parts, they were not cheap and I seem to remember about £80 each, but once all 4 were replaced with VW Parts I had no more problems. Also ensure you replace the sealing ring that goes with each sensor too.

There are often 2 lamda sensors. I note your error is B1 S1. S1 is on the engine side of the catalyst, so often on the end of the exhaust manifold. S2 is on the exhaust out side of the catalyst. B1 is bank 1, so unless you get multiple cylinder heads like a V or W engine, it will always be Bank 1. I had to change the S2 one on my Yeti 1.2 Petrol, which was quite easy to access from underneath. The S1 on mine would of been really easy from just having the bonnet open. Note when ordering S1 and S2 are different part numbers with different cable lengths and connectors.

I put my bikes on the roof. I've never liked those hang on racks. I agree mine would be a bit harder to put on and remove, but I can do on my own. I just think the roof bars are more secure.

Had mine done at a VAG specialist in Southend, Essex for £338. I also always hit the 5 years long before the mileage limit. The water pump does not need doing too, it is on the other end of the engine with its own little belt. The garage recommended that the water pump + it's belt be done every other cambelt change to mitigate failure. I choose that specialist as they had the VAS 611007 tool to check the timing afterwards.

Probably but mine wasn't, I upgraded from the factory fitted EFB to an AGM type. For the price difference it seemed silly not to. A Varta 570901076 Battery was only £120. I get your point on having to buy VCDS, but I did that years ago and it has more than paid for itself in normal servicing and fault finding over the years. I've also helped quite a number of local people with scans and coding mods. Anyone local could pop by mine and I'd code their battery after fitting.

I'm still going to do the coding on every battery change. It is so easy to do, takes about a minute, it takes longer to swap the battery than enter a few settings. So the point of arguing about it seems pointless. It needed doing for me anyway due to the battery type swap from EFB to AGM. A different battery type must be needed info as the charging profile would be different. The procedure does seem different on different vehicles. My sons Octavia Mk3 VRS for example had totally different forms to populate, the same type of information but a different entry method. We also swapped his original EFB to AGM type battery and on that it had to be entered as Battery Type = Fleece, whereas the Yeti as seen in my earlier attached photo had AGM on a drop down list. His Octavia has Binary-AGM, however I've been told that is something completely different and AGM batteries as normally brought are type Fleece.

I heard this too and that at the very least you need to change the serial number when replacing the battery, it does not matter what to - just change it. That's why I used the date as I thought well that's a system that would change. It would be nice to have this officially confirmed though as the reasons do make sense in the battery charging regulates as the battery ages but I have no idea if really true. After all how many devices have rechargeable batteries and this tell the device the battery has been changed is not a uniform requirement.