aubrey

The fact that it sits there suggests to me that the revs are being controlled. The engine is not running away. If it was my car I'd confirm the accelerator without starting the engine, Engine - 01 - Measuring Blocks - Group 1. Does it go 0% to 100% as you press the accelerator ?

That's an interesting point, maybe you could sync with changing the spark plugs. AFAIK It does not sync officially. No other service reason to remove it.

No, thats the single cam engine before around 2016 with a camchain opposed to a belt. CBZB I think they were. That looks easier. The twin cam TSI has a larger rectangular housing on top of the engine.

Having just serviced my Yeti for another year, I have to ask just Why did VW have to design the air filter to need the housing pulled off the engine and spun upside down to get to those 2 screws ? The housing removal needing the disconnection of the 2 air hoses. Surly VW could of made the top cover just come off without all that work. Seems bad design to me, but asking am I missing something - Just Why ?

If it does not feel as before then it sounds like the timing is out. I remember doing my old 1.9 pd roomster and you have to do a 2 crankshaft rotation check and confirm the locking tools fit again. I wrote how to do it as a sort of guide. I attach a link here. You will read about that 2 rotation test towards the end. Roomster 1.9pd Cambelt

It's not normal to bleed the ABS Unit. It does not have bleed points. To bleed the ABS you use a diagnostic tool to invoke and then follow a bleed procedure. Also that is assuming that particular ABS unit requires that and doesn't just bleed as part of the standard brake bleeding. That diagnostic procedure is only done on ABS unit replacement as it would be dry or if air had got into the ABS unit unintentionally, say due to running the master cylinder dry.

Just a heads up, The battery type may come up as Fleece, that is what you choose for an AGM battery. It is not Binary AGM.

I always put the date in as my serial number i.e. 02112022 if today. That serves me 2 things 1) it's the change in serial number required and 2) by reading the parameter it's a handy reminder of how old the battery is

I did this exact thing in both my 2016 1.2TSI Yeti and my sons 2015 Octavia VRS. I coded both of those with VCDS. Note AGM Battery was called Fleece on the Octavia, maybe the same on yours.

You are using the higher side fill hole I'm assuming ? I'm just imagining you filling via the bottom drain bolt. Always when I've changed gearbox oil there are 2 bolts. A drain on the bottom and a fill higher up. The procedure has always been release the fill bolt, as not being able to fill later would be an issue. Remove drain bolt, drain and refit. Fill via fill hole until it comes out of that fill level height. Spin gearbox and recheck fill level.

Share as a read only link on gDrive. I've done this a few times with the Yeti manuals I have.

Put a little scratch on the current oil filter cover. Put the scratch to line up with a gearbox casing marking, or if no gearbox marking put the little scratch across both. No way would the cover screw back on to the same end position. A piece of tape is too obvious if you want to be discreet. But I agree with the trust issues mentioned. I never did any of this when I had my cambelt done by an Indy.

That's exactly what I did. I was doing a normal brake bleed and while going round the wheels the pressure bleeder fell over, and its tube came out of the fluid. The first I knew was air being forced out a rear brake nipple and not fluid. So I'd managed to push air the whole way through. I agree to get air in the ABS you would of had to done something similar. I'd be surprised if just changing a wheel caliper would do that unless you let the brake system gravity drip a long time and empty itself. I normally put a piece of cling film over the reservoir and screw the lid back on to create a vacuum lock to stop dripping when I'm changing flexible hoses/calipers etc. But totally agree you would of had to of done something to get air in the ABS, as it's not an easy thing to do.

VW would use their proprietary ODIS system. Not all ABS Units need OBD bleeding. Your Golf by age probably does though. As long as they do the ABS Bleed Procedure then that's it. Something that is always done on ABS Unit replacement, as a new unit would always be dry on installation.

Interesting statement, it is a very easy DIY task if you have the cable. I've had a VCDS Cable for ages, in fact for so long its a VAGCOM cable, and have done this coding loads of times for mine and other vehicles. It is very simple to do. If all the battery parameters stay the same then all you need to do is change the battery serial number to reset the charging profile. I've read loads of talk on it not even being necessary, I have no knowledge of the truth there and just do the coding anyway. My Yeti I changed from EFB to AGM which is a better type of stop/start battery any not much more to buy, so that had the battery type, amp hour and serial number to change.

Exactly, yes. I asked that to rule that out. As I did write exactly about no leaks earlier. It is the combination of all the tests I described. You need to prove the basics first. It also proves/tests for air in the normal brake lines, as air there would cause a lower spongy pedal even with the engine off The servo helps but it the activation of the abs when all the power is on, ie engine started I was interested in. The pedal will drop a bit when the engine is started. That I believe proves the servo but it doesn't drop a lot. This dropping a lot is when air gets in the abs.

Remember a normal brake bleed won't do it. To bleed the ABS you have to activate the ABS valves using the diagnostic port. So ensure any garage you ask knows what you are talking about and does that. I can't remember 100% how I kicked the procedure off now, something like open the ABS Controller, Group 10 and click Go. I had a pressure bleeder attached while doing the VCDS process.

Hard high up, I mean with the engine off, after a couple of presses, possibly just one press the brake pedal is hard high up. The pedal does not go down much when pressed. And if even pressed hard does not creep down, proving no leaks. But as soon as the engine is started the pedal drops down a fair way, so from then on the brakes activate a fair way down the pedal. My pedal dropped down over half way to the floor. That is what I had when I had air in the ABS, as said as soon as I did the ABS bleed procedure. The pedal then just dropped a little when the engine was started and the biting point of the brakes, if that's a valid term, remained at the correct much higher up the pedal location. If you do do the VCDS ABS Bleed procedure I would recommend you do it with a mate. I did it alone and that made it more tricky with the running back and forth opening and closing both front nipples, then both rear. Having someone do the outside nipple work with another inside working the laptop would be better.

But is it hard high up ? As if so it would be similar to what my Roomster did when I got air in the ABS Unit. I had to bleed the ABS using VCDS, normal bleeding won't do it and I didn't find a garage that could do that. They all thought I was talking nonsense when I was asking not for a standard brake bleed but it had to be done using the OBD port and a diagnostic machine to bleed the ABS. So I had to do it myself. Immediately after that procedure the brake pedal was back to normal again. Back to the brake pedal activating the brakes high up when driving. I know I got air in the ABS due to my carelessness on a standard brake bleed, I let the reservoir run dry. Is there any chance air could of got in your ABS unit ?

With the engine off and handbrake on, if you push the pedal then a couple of times is it hard high up at the top with no creep ? Then start the engine, is that when it sinks too low ?

My father on law has this heated windscreen issue with his TomTom satnav on his Landrover. Only works in a bottom corner. So I know heated windscreens can be an issue with GPS reception.

The cambelt on the left hand side of the engine gets changed every 5 years. The independent VW specialist I use recommended that the water pump & its belt, on the right hand side, get replaced every other cambelt change to mitigate failure i.e. every 10 years. There is an aux belt that also drives the alternator and A/C Pump - That I guess is just inspect and replace if needed. So we are talking about 3 belts on the TSI Engine. It actually has 2 water pumps too, the one on the right side of the engine driven by that small toothed belt and an electric water pump. There is no second cambelt, it is a twin cam engine and both cams are driven by the single cambelt under the plastic cover on the left hand side of the engine.

As I wrote earlier I had that exact error code come on my Yeti. I used one of those box spanners with a slot cut for the cable, made for those sensors. Also sprayed it with penetrating oil, it came out quite easily tbh. I agree with your thoughts on non OE parts, I've had issues before with reversing sensors. That's why I replaced with a VW part from TPS. With the new sensor fitted, the fault code cleared and that's been a year so far with no issues.

The 2nd Lambda (Oxygen) sensor. Bank is the manifold number, so something like a V8 would have 2 exhaust manifolds Sensor 1 and sensor 2, is from the engine before and after the catalyst. So B1 S2, is the O2 Sensor just after the exhaust catalyst. I had to change that on my Yeti after the engine management light came up, IIRC about £140 from TPS to buy one

From experience I've never had any issues with interference, I've run cat 5e all round my house, even gone though the same joist holes that already existed for the mains wiring. I agree with you avoiding Cat7, I run that once thinking it was a good idea but as you say it is a pain to terminate and takes up so much more room when multiple runs run together. I didn't even bother with earthing the shield on that cat7 as I read it's only needed in industrial environments. Wired network is much more reliable than wireless. Although I did install Cat5e runs to a ceiling POE AP on each floor as well, but they are just for mobile devices. You may want to think about adding an AP or two to your setup. I still say you would find it easier running all the cables downstairs in one go, a larger chase, but once under the floorboards it would be all empty to just fan out to each location. Overall it would be less work than having to chase and fill every room corner. You won't have any building reg issues with network cabling, that is all extra low voltage (ELV). Still run it in approved BS7671 zones as that is safer for future drilling, assuming the driller knows about zones. There are also regs on drilling joists, mostly practical issues like making big holes close to the sides and weakening the joist. You'll be able to look them up on the web but for small holes for threading a network cable through you would be very unlikely to hit problems there but look them up nether the less. As mentioned earlier I used holes already in the joists where I could even when run with the LV wiring too. I use a long 8mm SDS bit (450mm long) and I find I can drill from above the skirting down behind and then push the cable down that. I've put loads of wiring to back boxes in that way. A multitool is good for cutting in the actual boxes too. Network cabling is ELV (<50v AC), LV is the mains wiring - Low Voltage is <1000V AC. Not that I'd call your 240v House Wiring Low Voltage but officially LV is the term for it. That 5cm rule depth and protection is for LV (240v) cabling. In practise it is not achievable, so that is why RCBOs, RCDs etc are now added to all circuits including lighting circuits from the 18th edition wiring regs. These would not apply to your ELV Network wiring anyway.