aubrey

If it's got Stop Start then normally a reset of the BMS, aka coding, is done. I've heard lots of chat of if it's the same battery type ie AGM, EFB and same Ah rating then it not required/not so important. But personally why not do it anyway, takes all of 5 minutes to do. I personally always do it when swapping stop/start batteries.

The later ones are cambelt. Has your engine got the twin cam black plastic cambelt cover on the top end, driver's side, proving cambelt. 2017 has to be.

I used the rear wiper fuse on my Yeti, that was ignition switched fine. Have you tried that one ? I'd expect the rear wiper to still function when stop/start was in stop mode. I attempted similar on my mates Peugeot and found on that the rear wiper was only 12v when the wiper was activated on the steering arm. As if the fuse was after the switch on that Peugeot. Not very useful to only have a dashcam work when the rear wiper was activated. So I had to probe about with a multimeter to find a fuse that switched just with the ignition switch. I found one in the end. So I guess I'd recommend trying the same, measure across fuse positions and find which can give you a 12v feed only when required.

Not exactly, they add tax on when you buy it. I think the Government have got wise to AliExpress and it's all handled automatically at the checkout. It's been like that for quite a while now, I know that as I've been using AliExpress, and Alibaba, for years. So what I paid AliExpress was it. Arrived in about 2 weeks. Saying that though I just checked again and no tax was shown against this item. Interesting - But all I can answer then is No, not charged any more after purchase and I never have been with many AliExpress orders.

I put the S8 version of this in my Yeti and it works well https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyVc2l1 If you did go this route then you have to get the VW Canbus adapter too https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGbmR6J That does Android Auto. I added a wireless Android Auto adapter to it from Amazon and now I even have wireless Android Auto too.

@Bluechild So your question Re: it pulled 2 litres and was that all of it ? I'm interested in the answer, so did you undo the sump nut and more come out, or did you just fill it back up and it took more, the just under 4L as expected. Both results would prove either way and as said I'm interested. I also brought an extractor but as @rum4mo said I couldn't be bothered having to clean it afterwards, so I just use ramps and do the sump plug. I have to get underneath anyway to get to the oil filter. I think if I didn't need to go underneath anyway then I would use it.

Got to say I fitted the S8 version of this unit in my Yeti https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHhFfAB and I've not had much of an issue. The only fault code when scanned with VCDS is Radio: No Comms, I just accept that. All the steering wheel controls work as before and reversing sensors show as graphics on its screen. The only thing missing is showing that radio station on the maxidot dash screen, honesty I can live with that too. Performance wise the radio is a little less sensitive than the original skoda unit. I added an aerial amp and that helps but still the radio needs a strong signal or it drops out. I changed the original as in kept dropping Android Auto connection and annoyed me when using satnav via Android auto. I've added a wireless android auto box to that replacement android S8 unit and it's been faultless. So I can install satnav software directly on the unit, being Andoid it is very versatile, or as said I normally use wireless android auto to my phone.

The fact that it sits there suggests to me that the revs are being controlled. The engine is not running away. If it was my car I'd confirm the accelerator without starting the engine, Engine - 01 - Measuring Blocks - Group 1. Does it go 0% to 100% as you press the accelerator ?

That's an interesting point, maybe you could sync with changing the spark plugs. AFAIK It does not sync officially. No other service reason to remove it.

No, thats the single cam engine before around 2016 with a camchain opposed to a belt. CBZB I think they were. That looks easier. The twin cam TSI has a larger rectangular housing on top of the engine.

Having just serviced my Yeti for another year, I have to ask just Why did VW have to design the air filter to need the housing pulled off the engine and spun upside down to get to those 2 screws ? The housing removal needing the disconnection of the 2 air hoses. Surly VW could of made the top cover just come off without all that work. Seems bad design to me, but asking am I missing something - Just Why ?

If it does not feel as before then it sounds like the timing is out. I remember doing my old 1.9 pd roomster and you have to do a 2 crankshaft rotation check and confirm the locking tools fit again. I wrote how to do it as a sort of guide. I attach a link here. You will read about that 2 rotation test towards the end. Roomster 1.9pd Cambelt

It's not normal to bleed the ABS Unit. It does not have bleed points. To bleed the ABS you use a diagnostic tool to invoke and then follow a bleed procedure. Also that is assuming that particular ABS unit requires that and doesn't just bleed as part of the standard brake bleeding. That diagnostic procedure is only done on ABS unit replacement as it would be dry or if air had got into the ABS unit unintentionally, say due to running the master cylinder dry.

Just a heads up, The battery type may come up as Fleece, that is what you choose for an AGM battery. It is not Binary AGM.

I always put the date in as my serial number i.e. 02112022 if today. That serves me 2 things 1) it's the change in serial number required and 2) by reading the parameter it's a handy reminder of how old the battery is

I did this exact thing in both my 2016 1.2TSI Yeti and my sons 2015 Octavia VRS. I coded both of those with VCDS. Note AGM Battery was called Fleece on the Octavia, maybe the same on yours.

You are using the higher side fill hole I'm assuming ? I'm just imagining you filling via the bottom drain bolt. Always when I've changed gearbox oil there are 2 bolts. A drain on the bottom and a fill higher up. The procedure has always been release the fill bolt, as not being able to fill later would be an issue. Remove drain bolt, drain and refit. Fill via fill hole until it comes out of that fill level height. Spin gearbox and recheck fill level.

Share as a read only link on gDrive. I've done this a few times with the Yeti manuals I have.

Put a little scratch on the current oil filter cover. Put the scratch to line up with a gearbox casing marking, or if no gearbox marking put the little scratch across both. No way would the cover screw back on to the same end position. A piece of tape is too obvious if you want to be discreet. But I agree with the trust issues mentioned. I never did any of this when I had my cambelt done by an Indy.

That's exactly what I did. I was doing a normal brake bleed and while going round the wheels the pressure bleeder fell over, and its tube came out of the fluid. The first I knew was air being forced out a rear brake nipple and not fluid. So I'd managed to push air the whole way through. I agree to get air in the ABS you would of had to done something similar. I'd be surprised if just changing a wheel caliper would do that unless you let the brake system gravity drip a long time and empty itself. I normally put a piece of cling film over the reservoir and screw the lid back on to create a vacuum lock to stop dripping when I'm changing flexible hoses/calipers etc. But totally agree you would of had to of done something to get air in the ABS, as it's not an easy thing to do.

VW would use their proprietary ODIS system. Not all ABS Units need OBD bleeding. Your Golf by age probably does though. As long as they do the ABS Bleed Procedure then that's it. Something that is always done on ABS Unit replacement, as a new unit would always be dry on installation.

Interesting statement, it is a very easy DIY task if you have the cable. I've had a VCDS Cable for ages, in fact for so long its a VAGCOM cable, and have done this coding loads of times for mine and other vehicles. It is very simple to do. If all the battery parameters stay the same then all you need to do is change the battery serial number to reset the charging profile. I've read loads of talk on it not even being necessary, I have no knowledge of the truth there and just do the coding anyway. My Yeti I changed from EFB to AGM which is a better type of stop/start battery any not much more to buy, so that had the battery type, amp hour and serial number to change.

Exactly, yes. I asked that to rule that out. As I did write exactly about no leaks earlier. It is the combination of all the tests I described. You need to prove the basics first. It also proves/tests for air in the normal brake lines, as air there would cause a lower spongy pedal even with the engine off The servo helps but it the activation of the abs when all the power is on, ie engine started I was interested in. The pedal will drop a bit when the engine is started. That I believe proves the servo but it doesn't drop a lot. This dropping a lot is when air gets in the abs.

Remember a normal brake bleed won't do it. To bleed the ABS you have to activate the ABS valves using the diagnostic port. So ensure any garage you ask knows what you are talking about and does that. I can't remember 100% how I kicked the procedure off now, something like open the ABS Controller, Group 10 and click Go. I had a pressure bleeder attached while doing the VCDS process.

Hard high up, I mean with the engine off, after a couple of presses, possibly just one press the brake pedal is hard high up. The pedal does not go down much when pressed. And if even pressed hard does not creep down, proving no leaks. But as soon as the engine is started the pedal drops down a fair way, so from then on the brakes activate a fair way down the pedal. My pedal dropped down over half way to the floor. That is what I had when I had air in the ABS, as said as soon as I did the ABS bleed procedure. The pedal then just dropped a little when the engine was started and the biting point of the brakes, if that's a valid term, remained at the correct much higher up the pedal location. If you do do the VCDS ABS Bleed procedure I would recommend you do it with a mate. I did it alone and that made it more tricky with the running back and forth opening and closing both front nipples, then both rear. Having someone do the outside nipple work with another inside working the laptop would be better.