aubrey

Normally all you lose is the clock time and trip mileage. There will be a few warning lights up on replacement but a short drive including steering lock to lock and they auto clear.

I'd be more worried about air pockets on refilling Coolant systems are often vacume filled i.e. get a vacuum in the empty system and then let let vacuum suck new coolant in, filling any high up air voids as part of the vacuum 'suck'. You could end up with poor/no circulation if just pouring in liquid left an air pocket.

If you measure the disc diameter, look at pad shape too, that should help pinpoint which brake system choice. My Yeti had 2 choices, but only one was for 280mm discs.

Is it G13 VW are now up to on specs ? I have used generic pink OAT Antifreeze before with no issues. Normally they say G10 or higher on their spec anyway

DAB is normally a USB Extra device for any of the Android Units. Remember you'll have to change your cars antenna to DAB compatible too, from experience those stick on windscreen types are useless. Those Android head units normally have a couple of USB ports in the rear so one of those can connect to the DAB Dongle. All.of the Android head units would do Android Auto from your phone, providing GoogleMaps or Waze etc. I added an Wireless Android Auto dongle to mine, so that's wireless too.

I changed them in my 1.2 TSI Yeti after 4 years. Can't say by their look they really needed it but for £40 I changed all 4. You need a thin wall spanner to get in there. So I don't think changing quicker is necessary.

That's what hill hold is for, the ABS Unit will hold the vehicle while your foot goes from brake to accelerator, preventing roll back

From what my 1.2 DSG Yeti does I'd say if in D then drive is not engaged until the accelerator is pressed a bit. So in D the clutches are disengaged at idle. However R is different in that foot off the brake and the car goes backwards, without any accelerator action required. So don't hypothetically do this test in Reverse.

Why not Shift to N, Turn off the engine etc ?

That is battery type Fleece, more commonly known as AGM. What is EFB+ anyway ? I obviously know of EFB, but not EFB+

I always measure the disc diameter before buying. You can normally see what the possibilities are by what gets offered for sale againat your vehicle. So above it shows 256mm or 276mm, a quick measure would confirm which you have.

Any reason you just can't reach over to the passenger side and pull the lever ? I must be missing something here ? More info - in fact I've looked at some videos, yes maybe it is a bit tight with the door shut

I've heard those resistance based testers are pants. The only good ones actually boil the fluid to give you the boiling point value. Obviously they are not the cheap testers you see sold everywhere. I've no personal experience on them, just saying what I've heard.

Tried changing the voice ? Sure I had this once and a different voice sorted it.

I brought it years ago, back in 2007 I think. The older HEX-USB+CAN one, but it still does me fine. I can't remember now who I brought it from now, but it has served me well over many years. Was a few hundred pounds IIRC.

@Gymbro1976 I just Googled P0030 it said that is the primary sensor, so I'd say S1 as my VCDS would say. So it's the engine side of the catalyst. Sometimes they are accessed from above and not underneath. My Yeti S1 Lambda for example is easy change from above, far easier than the S2 underneath. Don't go changing the wrong one out of the S1 and S2.

https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-lambda-sensor-on-skoda-rapid-spaceback-nh1-replacement-guide-29830 I have 2 lambda sensors on my Yeti, S1 and S2, before and after the catalyst. Bank 1 is exhaust manifold run, so only for V engines really.

Yes maybe, you would of felt the pedal drop a lot otherwise, especially with the engine running. I'm thinking any fluid trapped by closed valves must of remained in the unit, again trapped inside due to the closed valves. So if then all the open ports would of drip refilled on replacement, coupled with the open pathways then normal bleed, then maybe. It is quite a normal procedure to have to scan tool ABS Bleed on ABS Block replacement, but that would be with new/remanufactured and crucially fluid empty ABS Units. Anyway something you can keep in mind if you ever get a garage to brake bleed, instruct them to scan tool ABS Bleed too as that is not done by default and as @Paws4Thot said confirm they understand what your asking and why, as by experience I have had many blank faces too. In an older message you mentioned about coding values. Now your original unit is back you can get an OBD scan done and save your module coding values.

Understood with the reservoir, but I meant you changed ABS unit, so was your ABS unit not full of air by being all disconnected.

That's surprising, I messed up bleeding a 2007 Roomster and let the reservoir run dry. The pedal felt terrible after a then normal bleed. It sunk right down on engine start. I had to do a VCDS ABS Bleed to restore the pedal high up as before.

Out of interest why is it bad to tow a DSG in Neutral ? I'd of thought that in neutral neither of the dual clutch input shafts would be turning, so I'm interested why it would matter ?

As you've been swapping ABS units about have you done an ABS Bleed with a scan tool ? Assume you must of as the brake pedal would of been very spongy otherwise.

Oops just reread the thread. It was tagged onto. So a brand new car. That's back to the dealer, unless you know you're doing something extra to drain it as has been mentioned.

If it's the original battery from 2018 then it's probably due replacement age wise. If buying a new battery I'd say go for AGM over EFB. AGM is better and often not much more expensive. Remember you need to code the BMS for the battery replacement, especially if changing battery type.

Sorry I don't know any specific details. My initial thoughts are it must be possible as many locksmith companies do that, also search for key cloning/programming on AliExpress and you will see units to do what you ask. I thought car keys now have rolling codes that change, so how would that work with 2 keys copied. In how would they roll codes in sync ? But sorry, as said I don't know any specific details.