pikpilot

That is why it still works using an extension cable from one side to a bulb on the other side. The current is still being monitored on the original right hand side.

In a situation where I had the same radio and comms faults, I disconnected the battery, left it for 10+ minutes and reconnected the battery. All faults gone. Give it a try as it may fix the fan problem too. My thought is that if the battery voltage gets too low it screws up some stored settings and then needs the equivelent of ctr/alt/del.

I don't think so as the power is still coming from the right hand wiring.

On the face lift estate it is easy to disconnect the fog light wire on the right and extend it across the boot and reconnct to appropriate place in the left hand light cluster. Probably works for all models.

Go to this page on the Ross Tech site and put in each of your codes in turn where I have alredy entered your first code, and then click on the adjacent magifying glass symbol to start the search. It will give information on the code and bring up posts from other users with same problem. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

I should have said part 35.

I looked in LLLparts.co.uk and found this diagram. It looks you need part 41. It is available in different colours. I suggest you go to this site and enter your VIN to get the right part(s).

Take a look at the pinned topic above or click here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20tsi-engine-failures/ I would go with the 1.4 but, perhaps like all engines, it has had a few reports.

That is a good starting point. Now note the milage (or kilometers) and then do the same when the level has reached the bottom of the hatched area. This is point C on the diagram in your cars' handbook. Calculate the distance travelled. Then add oil to just reach the start of the hatched area. Note how much oil was added and then work out the rate of oil consumption.

The A mark is the "do not exceed" mark. The top of the B mark is the normal maximum when topping up. The difference between the A and B marks is quite small so if you have done 500km and only lost this small amount then that is quite good. The real test is to see how many kms you need to do to drop the level from B over the hatched area to C.

A quick search brought up other possibilities as well as starter being a common problem. https://www.google.com/search?q=octavia+2+warm+start+problem&oq=octavia+2+warm+strt+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33i10i160l5j33i671l4.17139j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

A previous poster who had this problem found it was a faulty starter motor. If I can find a link I will post it here.

My previous link says it is V68. As to basic setting of the flap motor after replacement, there may be a way to do it yourself. There are a combination of two or three of the control buttons you can press to do this. The combination depends on which climatronic unit you have. There are a number of videos on you tube that you can try. It is worth trying a reset before replacing the flap motor as it may not be faulty but just got stuck. Below are two search results I found but I will let you go through them to find the right one. https://www.google.com/search?q=skoda+octavia+climate+control+reset&sca_esv=af8dce034db735b1&sxsrf=ANbL-n6jVwqenetdfZRewREkpTKDwGvfxw%3A1774191413937&ei=NQPAabX2OKuxhbIP3uXd6Ao&biw=1244&bih=662&oq=skoda+climatronic+reset+octavia+2&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiIXNrb2RhIGNsaW1hdHJvbmljIHJlc2V0IG9jdGF2aWEgMioCCAEyBhAAGBYYHjILEAAYgAQYhgMYigUyCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FMggQABiABBiiBEiWQlDaC1jNLHABeAGQAQCYAXqgAcoGqgEDOS4xuAEByAEA-AEBmAILoALKCMICChAAGLADGNYEGEeYAwCIBgGQBgiSBwM0LjegB6s-sgcDMy43uAe_CMIHBTMtNy40yAfVAYAIAA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=af8dce034db735b1&biw=1244&bih=662&sxsrf=ANbL-n6IgID2vE_avEb_RUnxLqLSHWYTDQ:1774191462018&q=Skoda+Octavia+Mk2+heater+flap+reset&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjysu2e4rOTAxV6WEEAHVGzCywQ1QJ6BAg6EAE

All climatronic units use AC with recirculation as a quick way of reducing the humidy and clearing water from the inside of the front window when the humidity is high on a not-hot day; you will see the AC light come on when you press the reciirculation switch. With a faulty air mix flap you may find the air temp is reduced but you still need to replace the flap to so that the air is the same temperature as that selected by the dial.

See here: https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.php?q=+B201000+Climate+control+ Following the links for basic settings for an Octavia Mk2 brings up a page for a similar Golf https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Climatic#Basic_Setting in which it states "The basic setting needs to be performed, when the climatic control module or the temperture flap motor (V68) have been replaced." So it may be that your temperature control flap motor (which mixes hot and cold air) has failed but it needs someone with appropriate software (such VCDS) to make the basic settings to adjust the way it operates after replacement. There is a forum thread for VCDS showing which members are willing to use it for other forum members for free. However, changing the flap motor is not for the faint hearted and you may wish both jobs to be entrusted a VAG garage.

Sorry I cant remove the picture/text file.

I had this after the humidity level became high in the car, resulting in condensation. After looking at bad earths, faulty units etc I guessed what it was. I left all the windows open on a dry windy day and the faults dissapeared. I concluded that it was water when I found that the mix of lights and dimmed lights varied with what other control controls were activated. Moving the indicator arm or switching on or off other controls changed which icons came on the display.

If the cooling system is being pressuried by gas from say a leaking head gasket,the increased pressure will force expansion of the rubber hoses and reduce the coolant level. This will expose the fangs and give low coolant warning. Next time it happens, stop and immediately check the coolant level by looking at the side of the container. Then either carefully release the pressure cap or wait and see if the level rises as it cools down. You could also try another pressure cap in case is not releasing as it should.

That must be a record. Skoda recommend replacing at a much shorter period and they usually fail between 6 and 10 years old although mine lasted a bit beyond that.

In principle that is correct. Alkaline batteries of the type being used tend to die after 5 years or so.

You are on the right track See here: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?search=P0016&title=Special%3ASearch&profile=default&fulltext=1

The alarm problem is due to the battery inside the alarm unit reaching end of life. This can also cause it to leak corrossive liquid that destroys the printed circuit board eventually. If the main battery is low at only 11 volts then it cannot fully charge the alarm battery which will hasten its demise. However, having got to the stage of having multiple false alrms during the night, I doubt very much if having a even a new main battery will make the alarm problem go away.

There are many second hand alarms on ebay that have been taken off cars and I would not trust. Yes, the genuine part is expensive but one supplied and fitted by a Skoda garage (including a new bracket and fastners and VAT) came to a total of £204.59 The alarm unit fitted was 1K0951605F Have you read the "sticky" page on alarms above the threads?