pikpilot

My previous link says it is V68. As to basic setting of the flap motor after replacement, there may be a way to do it yourself. There are a combination of two or three of the control buttons you can press to do this. The combination depends on which climatronic unit you have. There are a number of videos on you tube that you can try. It is worth trying a reset before replacing the flap motor as it may not be faulty but just got stuck. Below are two search results I found but I will let you go through them to find the right one. https://www.google.com/search?q=skoda+octavia+climate+control+reset&sca_esv=af8dce034db735b1&sxsrf=ANbL-n6jVwqenetdfZRewREkpTKDwGvfxw%3A1774191413937&ei=NQPAabX2OKuxhbIP3uXd6Ao&biw=1244&bih=662&oq=skoda+climatronic+reset+octavia+2&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiIXNrb2RhIGNsaW1hdHJvbmljIHJlc2V0IG9jdGF2aWEgMioCCAEyBhAAGBYYHjILEAAYgAQYhgMYigUyCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FMggQABiABBiiBEiWQlDaC1jNLHABeAGQAQCYAXqgAcoGqgEDOS4xuAEByAEA-AEBmAILoALKCMICChAAGLADGNYEGEeYAwCIBgGQBgiSBwM0LjegB6s-sgcDMy43uAe_CMIHBTMtNy40yAfVAYAIAA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=af8dce034db735b1&biw=1244&bih=662&sxsrf=ANbL-n6IgID2vE_avEb_RUnxLqLSHWYTDQ:1774191462018&q=Skoda+Octavia+Mk2+heater+flap+reset&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjysu2e4rOTAxV6WEEAHVGzCywQ1QJ6BAg6EAE

All climatronic units use AC with recirculation as a quick way of reducing the humidy and clearing water from the inside of the front window when the humidity is high on a not-hot day; you will see the AC light come on when you press the reciirculation switch. With a faulty air mix flap you may find the air temp is reduced but you still need to replace the flap to so that the air is the same temperature as that selected by the dial.

See here: https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.php?q=+B201000+Climate+control+ Following the links for basic settings for an Octavia Mk2 brings up a page for a similar Golf https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Climatic#Basic_Setting in which it states "The basic setting needs to be performed, when the climatic control module or the temperture flap motor (V68) have been replaced." So it may be that your temperature control flap motor (which mixes hot and cold air) has failed but it needs someone with appropriate software (such VCDS) to make the basic settings to adjust the way it operates after replacement. There is a forum thread for VCDS showing which members are willing to use it for other forum members for free. However, changing the flap motor is not for the faint hearted and you may wish both jobs to be entrusted a VAG garage.

Sorry I cant remove the picture/text file.

I had this after the humidity level became high in the car, resulting in condensation. After looking at bad earths, faulty units etc I guessed what it was. I left all the windows open on a dry windy day and the faults dissapeared. I concluded that it was water when I found that the mix of lights and dimmed lights varied with what other control controls were activated. Moving the indicator arm or switching on or off other controls changed which icons came on the display.

If the cooling system is being pressuried by gas from say a leaking head gasket,the increased pressure will force expansion of the rubber hoses and reduce the coolant level. This will expose the fangs and give low coolant warning. Next time it happens, stop and immediately check the coolant level by looking at the side of the container. Then either carefully release the pressure cap or wait and see if the level rises as it cools down. You could also try another pressure cap in case is not releasing as it should.

That must be a record. Skoda recommend replacing at a much shorter period and they usually fail between 6 and 10 years old although mine lasted a bit beyond that.

In principle that is correct. Alkaline batteries of the type being used tend to die after 5 years or so.

You are on the right track See here: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?search=P0016&title=Special%3ASearch&profile=default&fulltext=1

The alarm problem is due to the battery inside the alarm unit reaching end of life. This can also cause it to leak corrossive liquid that destroys the printed circuit board eventually. If the main battery is low at only 11 volts then it cannot fully charge the alarm battery which will hasten its demise. However, having got to the stage of having multiple false alrms during the night, I doubt very much if having a even a new main battery will make the alarm problem go away.

There are many second hand alarms on ebay that have been taken off cars and I would not trust. Yes, the genuine part is expensive but one supplied and fitted by a Skoda garage (including a new bracket and fastners and VAT) came to a total of £204.59 The alarm unit fitted was 1K0951605F Have you read the "sticky" page on alarms above the threads?

A nice thing about the 1.6 cr engine with dpf is the low emissions, which results in just a thin grey covering at the tail pipe. If yours was burning oil it would have a thick black coating. What does yours have?

Well you are lucky in that the alarm has lasted over two years longer than mine which is the same age and model. The alarms will get more frequent and eventually the unit will have to be replaced. I never tried removing the alarm fuse but it is fuse 35 in the fusebox at the end of the dash. See page 213 in your handbook.

The handbook for your car says you need 4.3 litres if the oil filter and oil are both changed. A hot oil smell can be caused by oil spilt and not cleaned away. Loss of oil soon after an oil change is often caused by the mechanic using the old drain plug and gasket. VW state that a new drain plug and copper gasket should always be used.

May need the cable lengths adjusting to compensate for stretch. It is very easy to do as the method automatically sets the right length. Basically you lock the gear leaver in the cabin using a 5mm drill. Then pull and turn the locking pin near the selector mech under the bonnet. Last step is pull back the spring on the each of the two gear cable ends and then put them back again. This last action will put the cable end on at the right part of the cable. Before doing this easy adjustment, first look for slop and wear on all moving parts and replace as necessary. Many videos on youtube

As standard, all models come with a software rev limiter when the car is stationary. Somewhere around 3000 rpm.

One of my injectors failed completely and another was on its way (1.6l cr). I had these two replaced. On this engine it is well known that once one injector fails, the others will go soon after. After replacing the other two before they failed and having done ~ 1000 miles, with occasional diesel knock in the first 100 miles, it has transformed the engine with higher torque and more mpg. I intend to keep this 13 year old car. Yes, the cost can be high but remember you could be loosing more money in depreciation on a newer car. Outside this engine problem and door lock plus a rear wiper motor, it has has been reliable over the ten years I've had it.

It the same icon for both on my car.

Just a though - my car handbook says if the warning flashes while driving, check the oil level and top up with oil as necessary. Could it be a failing oil level sensor? If it has one?

Take a look at this:

It a common problem on older cars that one or mores wires in the rubber boot between the driver's door and the body are broken. First signs are often an intermittent function as the ends of the broken wires meet then separate.

1) Low air flow to screen. Some of the air that is used for the screen is diverted to the side widows via the hole you see when the door is open. This reduces the screen air flow but only a small amount. But it will be less than that in other makes of car without this feature. 2) Change to climatronics. You may not need to think about this. There are two versions of the manual controls - one with just a single button for recirculation and one with an A/C button as well as recirculation. If you have the dual buttons then you can manually drive the system like a climatronic i.e. you can have the A/C on at the same time as setting the heater to a high temperature. In fact if you choose max air to the screen you will see it also switches on the A/C too to demist the screen faster.

Not experienced this myself but it could be the automatic humidity control. On my car the a/c comes on when the max air to screen button is pressed and the humidity is high. To reduce the humidity in the cabin, the a/c is used to produce cold air to condense out the water vapour to liquid water. The dryer air is then heated to the set temperature before going to the cabin/windows. On days where moisture has "misted up" the windows, manually switching on the a/c and a higher fan speed (without adjusting the air temperature) will very quickly demist the windows.

Additional to my post above, on most models you will see that the a/c compressor is switched on automatically when you press the "max air to screen" button if the humidity is high. The water in the humid air is condensed to liquid water by chilling and then runs down a pipe to the outside.