pikpilot

The idle revs rise to just over 1000 when the battery needs recharging after a period of little use. It may need more than half an hour of driving to bring the battery to a decent level of charge and return to normal idle. The battery is either being discharged when the engine is off or the battery is no longer holding its charge due to age etc. My experience of DPF regen is that the idle, after driving with an active regen, the revs are over 1000 before falling back

Without the ignition ON, the window raise/lower buttons and central lock button are disabled after about 10 minutes. Note that if, in normal use, if the door open light on the display is not working, it indicates a faulty microswitch in the door lock or a broken wire in the snake across the door hinge. In this circumstance, the door will relock after about a minute. Over 200 miles from home my wife dropped her key on a rear seat as she was closing a rear door. She had removed the key and it was in her hand. After the ten minutes or so doing other things the car was ready to activate all locks as soon as the rear door was closed. As she closed the door (and dropping the remote) the car now locked with the remote on the rear seat. A nearby garage (for free) brought along their kit to lever back the top of the rear door and insert a long rod. Using the rod, the man turned the key over and then pressed the open button. Voila! and lucky!

On the Mk11 Elegance Estate it was an option. On the Mk1, the same model had it as standard. Can't say I missed it when moving to the Mk11

As you have shown the problem is not in the headlight itself the only thing left is the car wiring and associated connectors and fuses.

It looks like it is asking you to choose memory 1 or 2 for the data listing. One is for current journey data list and two is the same for total journeys since last reset. Select using the button on the bottom of the right hand stalk. Normally either 1 or 2 appears at top right of the display screen once selection has been made. If this doesn't work, then disconnect the battery, wait a while and reconnect. It is common to find funny things have happened after reconnecting the battery. I believe it is due to the sparking as the battery is reconnected. My latest "fault" due to this was the doors unlocking and relocking every time I accelerated in first gear! Go figure! Disconnecting the battery, waiting and then reconnecting fixed it.

You probably need to resynchronise the key(s). This procedure does change by model year but this is the most common way:- 1) With the doors locked, press any button on the fob 2) within a minute, use the key in the door lock to unlock the door 3) put the key in the ignition lock and turn on the ignition (this will also silence the alarm if it has come on) 4) withdraw the key. The buttons should now work.

Usually if the battery leaked there will be (perhaps unseen) damage which is terminal. My experience is that false alarms can generated when the battery is kaput.

Here are a few pointers: https://www.jurid.com/en-gb/technical-support/light-vehicles/technical-tips/brake-judder.html If you have changed the discs then I would check for rust or similar on the disc/hub mating surfaces. I assume you have checked for loose wheel bolts?

Did you check Fuse 12 (Control unit for CAN databus) in the engine bay fuse box? Fuse location is shown in the handbook about page 211. If you don't have a handbook then download it from the sticky thread at the beginning of this forum.

Take a look at the cables from the battery and the connection points, including to the body. I recently noticed the negative cable at the battery on mine shows signs of corrosion. White deposit inside the cable. Still works but but I suspect it will soon show your described symptoms if not changed. Could also be worn brushes in the starter motor only just making contact. They are replaceable.

Reading the battery voltage of the battery when not loaded is not an indication of battery capacity. As batteries age, not only is the capacity reduced but they also look like there is a resistor in series with the output, limiting maximum cranking amps. As said before, check the battery voltage when cranking or get a battery supplier to use their test equipment (usually free) to see how it performs under load.

Was yours one of those that were "improved" by a recall during the diesel gate problem? You can tell by a) an extra air straightener in the input air supply and b) a sticker in the spare wheel well. Engines also had new software which gives a gutless performance requiring higher revs. I fought VAG to not have the "fix" and won. My engine pulls well from 1200 revs in 2nd. Best acceleration is in 3rd from above 1500. Acceleration is more than adequate in 5th gear on motorways. Fuel around town is low 50s mpg and high 50s to low 60s on mixed roads.

Whine noise was due to a worn turbo bearing on my non-VAG engine. Examination showed that the turbo was also clogged with combustion products. Exchange turbo fixed it.

Check the wiring at the ground stud behind the trim on the left side of the boot. It is a common problem when water has flooded the area (which you also reported). In fact it is usually due not to rainwater but caused by having a washer solution that is too weak during the winter. On cold nights the water in the washer hose behind the trim freezes and the ice pushes off the coupler in the pipe. Next time you use the rear washer, the wash water is pumped into the boot. This then corrodes the connections at the earth stud and gives the result you found. Just clean up the connections with a fine emery cloth or similar and reconnect.

Mike, I thought that all Mk2 have electric power steering instead of a hydraulic system. From the way oil is spread over the rubber gaiter it would suggest to me that oil is being dripped down from above

Just noticed that this is a duplicate thread, two hours after you posted Airbag warning light and no sound of the horn- both lost simultaneously- what can be the problem ?

Yep, probably the clock spring assembly which keeps these functions connected when you turn the wheel. Search for post using clock spring.

Did you also do the hold reset at the fully open position? It needs doing at both limits. As Alasdair1 said, friction in the slides etc will cause cause the motor to reverse. You can over ride this by pressing the button for original direction of travel within 10 seconds. Here is what my handbook says: The electrically operated power windows are fitted with a force limiter. It reduces the risk of bruises or injuries when closing the windows. If there is an obstacle, the closing process is stopped and the window goes down by several centimetres. If the obstacle prevents the window from being closed during the next 10 seconds, the closing process is interrupted once again and the window goes down by several centimetres. You must try to close the window once again within 10 seconds after the window has gone down twice, even if the obstacle was not yet removed, the closing process is stopped. During this time it is not possible to automatically close the window. The force limiter is still switched on. The force limiter is only switched off, if you attempt to close the window within the next 10 seconds – the window closes now with full strength! If you wait longer than 10 seconds, the force limiter is switched on again.

Your problem, as you said, is that there is no supply to the fuse. Likely causes are: 1) the upstream fuse has also blown. Sometimes happens. Check to see what other things have no supply or look for a larger fuse that has blown. 2) a corroded connection or wire in the upstream supply.

This happened to me about 4 years ago after a Skoda garage changed the door controller. At the same time the door card puddle light failed to work. I took the car back to them within half an hour. They then spent about an hour setting up the correct features in software. No problem since.

My door open icon does not work when the door is in summer sun. Starts working again when the car is moving - door cools down. Lately has started to not work on very cold days. I have had it confirmed by a VAG garage and an auto electrician that the cause is the microswitch inside the door lock. Cost of new lock is ~£300 and similar cost for labour. The labour is high because the entire window system has to be removed (and later replaced) to gain access to the lock. The auto electrician says that he does this regularly, particularly on Audi variants.

Do the doors lock at the same time? Funny things happen if the door open/closed microswitch in the door lock has failed, or its cable in the trunk between body and door has broken. Next time you do this, look for the driver's door open icon on the dash. Additionally, report back if the door locks as soon as you turn off the ignition.

Late facelift models such as mine (2012), and probably yours, came with DRL lights fitted but not active. The handbook shows how to turn DRLs on and off by using the left hand stalk BUT you first have to activate the system using one of these: [unfortunately the handbook note also uses the word activate when they mean switch on] visit to dealer software such as VCDS other software I used Carister software as it also allows some useful extra facilities also found on the more advanced display/steering wheel system. By the same three routs you can change the country of use to set the kms/miles per hour etc.

A quick search on line brought up this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL0tUX4c6hw Once you have the binnacle assembly out you can remove screws on the rear to give access the back of the part you need to clean.