pikpilot

The facelift estate is different and does not look like your picture. Only uses single filament bulbs. Here is the comparison from a driver's manual. Light unit (Octavia) Bulb Reversing light P21W Turn signals PY21W Twin filament light bulb for the brake lights and tail lights P21/4W Twin filament bulbs for the rear fog light and rear parking light P21/4W Parking lights W3W Rear light unit (Estate car) Bulb Reversing lights, brake lights, parking light and rear fog light P21W Turn signals PY21W Parking lights W3W You probably know this, you cannot connect your trailer wiring directly to the car wiring because you must have an interface unit to separate out the sidelight and brake light functions.

In the 1z5 version (estate / wagon) the rear lights are electronically driven without fuses. Lights which only just about shine indicate a poor earth connection (if whole cluster is affected) or poor bulb contact or corrosion if just one bulb affected. There are no twin filament bulbs in the rear cluster of the estate as they are single filament bulbs electronically controlled. For example the rear light/brake light position has its brightness changed using pulse width modulation to change the brightness. [only the saloon/hatch retains the traditional arrangement]. As said above, in Europe there is only one rear fog light - on the driver's side of the car. It sounds like your weak brightness is the fog light bulb. This can happen if there is poor connection/corrosion in the cluster so another active bulb is supplying power through a high resistance leakage path. Look for water damage.

What you are seeing is normal when the battery is not holding its charge. The revs rise to 1000 at idle to put back some of the energy lost in starting because the battery voltage has dropped. The fact that your battery reaches normal voltage in less than a minute indicates the battery characteristics are moving to that of a failed battery. My guess is that only one cell in the battery has failed. On the question of leakage current, there are some parts that are actively listening for about 10 minutes unless the doors have been locked. For example, you can still operate the windows even if you have turned off the ignition.

This is a good page to decode fault codes: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes It might help some members on here if you post the engine code. You can find it on a sticker around the spare wheel area

As far as I can tell, there is no brake light fuse on your model, suggesting the lights are electronically controlled too on the hatch. When you have tried everything else and not found anything, I would do the car version of Ctrl+Alt+Delete which is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes as a reset. You will loose your trip data and have to reset the one-press open and closure of the windows as shown in the handbook.

Since posting I checked again. Only the estate is as described. The hatch back/saloon still has a two filament bulb with separate feeds for side and brake lights. Check your handbook for fuse function. Mine says fuse 13 is the diagnostic socket.

The brake lights and the side lights are the same bulb on later models. The intensity is changed electronically using pulse width modulation. I suggest you check for fault codes. It may also be that the car has shut off the car brake lights for protection against a fault in the unit that creates the brake light supply to your trailer brake lights. Take look in the boot on the left-hand side for water ingress and corrosion of the connections made to the earth stud. Also look at the wiring to the trailer socket for shorts.

I would be looking at engine and gearbox mounts.

In about 2015 there were several threads about putting a net behind the grill to catch stones after several members had your problem. Try a search on here if still available. This was the first thing I did when I got my car in 2015. When fitting the net I also removed many small concrete lumps from the top of the bumper onto which they had fallen after hitting the core.

More likely to be a sticky vanes in the turbo. Your whistling may be collateral damage of the turbo bearings if the frequency of the whistle follows the revs. If you were originally happy with the standard turbo you could simply replace it as it avoids getting into other issues consequent of a larger turbo.

The likely cause of the alarm going off is the internal alarm battery is nearly dead and is not holding the charge from the main battery. Pulling the fuse should work after a few days when the alarm battery goes flat.

The idle revs rise to just over 1000 when the battery needs recharging after a period of little use. It may need more than half an hour of driving to bring the battery to a decent level of charge and return to normal idle. The battery is either being discharged when the engine is off or the battery is no longer holding its charge due to age etc. My experience of DPF regen is that the idle, after driving with an active regen, the revs are over 1000 before falling back

Without the ignition ON, the window raise/lower buttons and central lock button are disabled after about 10 minutes. Note that if, in normal use, if the door open light on the display is not working, it indicates a faulty microswitch in the door lock or a broken wire in the snake across the door hinge. In this circumstance, the door will relock after about a minute. Over 200 miles from home my wife dropped her key on a rear seat as she was closing a rear door. She had removed the key and it was in her hand. After the ten minutes or so doing other things the car was ready to activate all locks as soon as the rear door was closed. As she closed the door (and dropping the remote) the car now locked with the remote on the rear seat. A nearby garage (for free) brought along their kit to lever back the top of the rear door and insert a long rod. Using the rod, the man turned the key over and then pressed the open button. Voila! and lucky!

On the Mk11 Elegance Estate it was an option. On the Mk1, the same model had it as standard. Can't say I missed it when moving to the Mk11

As you have shown the problem is not in the headlight itself the only thing left is the car wiring and associated connectors and fuses.

It looks like it is asking you to choose memory 1 or 2 for the data listing. One is for current journey data list and two is the same for total journeys since last reset. Select using the button on the bottom of the right hand stalk. Normally either 1 or 2 appears at top right of the display screen once selection has been made. If this doesn't work, then disconnect the battery, wait a while and reconnect. It is common to find funny things have happened after reconnecting the battery. I believe it is due to the sparking as the battery is reconnected. My latest "fault" due to this was the doors unlocking and relocking every time I accelerated in first gear! Go figure! Disconnecting the battery, waiting and then reconnecting fixed it.

You probably need to resynchronise the key(s). This procedure does change by model year but this is the most common way:- 1) With the doors locked, press any button on the fob 2) within a minute, use the key in the door lock to unlock the door 3) put the key in the ignition lock and turn on the ignition (this will also silence the alarm if it has come on) 4) withdraw the key. The buttons should now work.

Usually if the battery leaked there will be (perhaps unseen) damage which is terminal. My experience is that false alarms can generated when the battery is kaput.

Here are a few pointers: https://www.jurid.com/en-gb/technical-support/light-vehicles/technical-tips/brake-judder.html If you have changed the discs then I would check for rust or similar on the disc/hub mating surfaces. I assume you have checked for loose wheel bolts?

Did you check Fuse 12 (Control unit for CAN databus) in the engine bay fuse box? Fuse location is shown in the handbook about page 211. If you don't have a handbook then download it from the sticky thread at the beginning of this forum.

Take a look at the cables from the battery and the connection points, including to the body. I recently noticed the negative cable at the battery on mine shows signs of corrosion. White deposit inside the cable. Still works but but I suspect it will soon show your described symptoms if not changed. Could also be worn brushes in the starter motor only just making contact. They are replaceable.

Reading the battery voltage of the battery when not loaded is not an indication of battery capacity. As batteries age, not only is the capacity reduced but they also look like there is a resistor in series with the output, limiting maximum cranking amps. As said before, check the battery voltage when cranking or get a battery supplier to use their test equipment (usually free) to see how it performs under load.