pikpilot

Led replacement fixes a common problem of some leds not working. There is a how to do it guides with photos in a couple of threads on this forum. It is not a fix for the wrong leds being shown. Except that taking the display out of the car for a while will dry it out.

More likely that the battery has died a death and won't accept a charge. Its Capacity will also be very low.

After 12 years since the last post it is probably worth describing your fault in detail as most readers will be new.

The fuel light is correct as you need more fuel. The random display of dim icons which change when you switch on other correct icons such as the turn signals is exactly what I had until I dried out the car interior.

I looked at the warning lights section in my car handbook and your icon is not included. I do have a different icon for brake failure / low brake fluid so perhaps your icon means that. Another possibilty is that your icon is a "spare" that is only used in certain markets. When a car has been standing for a while in wet/high humidity conditions you can find any of the icons being randomly displayed until the car has dried out. I suggest you use the car for a few days with the heater on high to see if the icon goes away. If you have a Climatronic system then make sure you switch on the aircon compressor as well as setting high heat as this will reduce the humidity more quickly.

1. The idle speed of 1000 rpm is normal if the battery is being recharged - especially if you are also feeding heavy loads such as a window heater(s) and lights. It will return to the normal 700 rpm when the battery reaches normal float voltage. Not related to coolant temperature. 2. The "clever" software that drives the coolant temperature guage reads 90C over a wide acceptable coolant temperature range both cooler and hotter than actual temperature. On both points what you described is normal and you don't have a problem. Points 1 and 2 have been a feature of VAG cars for over 20 years but it still catches out newcomers. Were the two temperature sensors you changed in the cabin? If so they are associated with Climatronic cabin heating.

Have you tried the second key fob? I had the same problen on a different make of car. The fault was due to broken solder joint in the fob after being dropped.

Can you lock and unlock the doors with the switch on the central console with the ignition on?

That is normal on short slow runs and cold days on this efficient diesel. If you set the heater outlet to the central dash vents, you get warmish air before the tenperature gauge needle climbs off the stop.

It is just condensation. I don't think it is necessarly in the dash.

It is normal if the battery capacity is low. Cold temperatures also affect this. In winter if you have the screen heater, lights and other large loads on then the 1100 rpm idle is used to ensure there is still positive charge going into the battery when the engine is idling. Reverts to 700 rpm when the battery is near fully recharged - about 15 minutes on cold days and/or if the car has not been used for a while.

Here is a posting with details. Yours will have two switches missing. No need to click on the Workshop link inside the posting as the full post is better.

This happens when the car has condensation inside from not being used for a while. Different combinations of lights will come on with use. To fix this problem on mine I left all the windows open on a dry sunny day. However, if you are going to use the car daily on not short journeys, there is a better way. Assuming your car has Climatronic climate control, then you can let that do the work for you. Switch on the air con and set the temperature controls to hot. The hot air will increase the humidy inside the car and the air con will replace this with dry air from outside. It will eventually settle at a comfortable preset humidty. At first sight it seems daft to have the heater and air con on at the same time but this is how the system works. Air from outside is first cooled to remove excess humidy as condensed water. The air is then heated to the temperature you have set. Note the air con is inhibited below about 5C. I leave my air con on almost all the time because the compressor has variable capacity control which draws hardly any power most of the time - completely different to bang-bang compressors of old. One advantage of doing this is that window condensation on rainy days is removed automatically within minutes.

That is exactly the scenario I described above for a failing battery. When the engine is warm it is a common problen for your engine series due to not acheiving a high crank revs. Why are you changing the tandem pump?

My similar car has always required the clutch pedal to be pushed near to floor to fully disengage but never actually into the carpet. Can you find another one for sale that you can test drive?

When a Skoda garage changed my driver's door module, it took three attempts to get the coding right to include all the features. I suggest you look at the VCDS forum on Briskoda to find someone near you (use the map) who is willing to sort it out for a few beer tokens.

On my Octavia Mk1 with a 1.9 litre tdi engine, this was a common problem. The reason was that, when warm. a certain cranking speed had to be acheived before the next step in the starting process could procede. When cold, any crank speed is allowed. The major cause was an old battery that could not produce enough current to acheive minimum cranking speed. Less commom reasons were corrosion of the ends of the starter motor cable or starter motor problems. Ask someone to use jump leads from their battery next time you have the problem. Or swap out the battery.

Yes. It will not work if the boot hatch is open. The rear wiper is operated by signals through can bus on the estate and likely the same on the hatchback (your small black box?) Probably controlled by the Comfort Control module. On the Estate the wiring runs behind the right hand side boot trim and into the roof area - possibly runs along on the RH side to the top of the A or B pillar at a guess.

The secondary electric water pump, which comes on for 30 seconds after switch off, is not intrusive and can only be heard when there is no major other noise. However, it occurs every time you switch off a warm engine and can be mistaken for a fan. It has nothing to do with regen, coolant level etc. After a journey, with the engine warm and still running immediately open the bonnet and then within a few seconds have someone switch off the engine. You will hear the aux cooling pump running at the front (the side of the engine) for 30 secs. Confirm this is the noise you heard. The radiator fan will not normally come on.

Have you looked at the fan to confirm it is running? On your engine (CAYC) there is a secondary electric water pump which comes on for 30 seconds after switch off. This can sound like a fan. There is no display when regenerating the dpf.

What makes you think it is the engine and not wheel balance? Wheel balance issues don't show themselves in town driving. Does it go away when drive through the shake to a higher speed?

First remove the battery. Check the connection on the vertical fuses at the front for corrosion. Then take out the fuseboard assembly (which holds the smaller fuses and relays) and look underneath it on the printed circuit board for corrosion, particularly on the connections to the small fuses. Check too for water damage. This is has been a problem on some facelift models and could also apply to earlier Mk 11 although locations may vary. Check too the earth connections, and their cables and for black or green strands. Especially check carefully for this on the negative cable to the battery. Your description fits with a corroded connection or, less likely, a relay with burnt contacts.

Try ejecting all the CDs to see if the noise goes, just to eliminate a mechanical problem first.

You need to fill the tank yourself and then see what the mpg looks like. I know of someone who paid for an employees fuel, and who had a car that always had a consistently low mpg. He found out that some of the petrol was being put into cans for another car.

The clutch sees a higher torque in this situation so this is where you will see early signs of a worn clutch. A check you can to do to verify a slipping clutch is, when going up hill at high torque, maintaining the same throttle setting, press lightly on the clutch pedal until th revs start to rise then release the pedal and see how long it takes for the revs to drop. With a good clutch it will be instaneous.