pikpilot

Before you make a change look on line at the speed per 1000 revs in top gear. Some cars have same final speed per 1000 revs in the 5 speed and 6 speed variants. The extra gear is used to meet torque requirements lower down.

In case your keys have lost synchronisation, try this: To resynchronise the key to the immobiliser, 1) from outside the car, press ANY button on the remote 2) then, within one minute, unlock the door from the outside using the KEY BLADE

My experience is that the clicking noise is the worn teeth on the nylon gear are stripped or starting to strip. Even if a reset does get it working again for now, in the long term you will end up replacing the flap servo assembly.

To reset the immobiliser you must put the key in the ignition switch and turn it on. As you will have tried this then I suggest you try the second key. Failing that, you have blown a fuse as I think you may be suggesting. You don't need the pictograms as the handbook gives the function for each fuse. You can download the handbook for each each model year from the sticky threads area before the posts. Also you can download fuse functions and locations from sites such as this: 2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diag...2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diagram - StartMyCar

I suspect it is a relay in the tray that is located under the dash to the right of the steering column. It drops down for access. Should be able to touch each relay in turn to discover if/which one is clicking. Can't help further at the moment as I have just come home from major surgery.

Have you read the stored diagnostic codes? I would not rule out a failing injector or an air leak in the pipe to the input side of the turbo.

This is the Skoda/Audi etc part number. It is used as an ECU relay and also another for the fuel pump and perhaps in other places too. Search this part number on-line and you will find it - and also many second-hand relays.

After my final two injectors were changed I had the pinking noise (diesel knock) under high torque acceleration. The specialist garage said that they had used the numbers with the injectors to code them to the ecu and not to worry. I was reluctant to accept there was no problem but in fact the pinking did not reoccur. The power also increased as time went on so I guess the ecu probably makes small adjustments. However, you may like to to look at this video which diagnoses and fixes a CAYC engine with poor idle and a ticking noise. One of the new injectors was not performing correctly and was replaced/repaired. This may be your problem.

Does the fast tapping sound a bit like you used to get on a petrol engine if it was pinking?

Don't forget to reset the one press window up/down feature after replacing the battery. See handbook.

In my experience it is likely to be a battery fault. When mine wouldn't start I called the AA and he restarted the engine using another battery connect in parallel with my battery. He left it running like that (to recharge my battery) for about 5-10 minutes. As soon he took off the first lead between his battery and mine, the engine stopped. My battery had developed an internal fault; high resistance, almost open circuit. The way the fuses are connected is that the first fuses are high current fuses that look like vertical strips of metal mounted near the battery and connect to it. Power from these then go to lower current fuses and relays which in turn feed the even smaller fuses such as those at the end of the dashboard. The fusing philosophy is standard whether it is a house, car or airplane. The fuse size is chosen to protect the cable connected to it in order to prevent fires from cable burn out. The cable is sized to carry the maximum current in that circuit. I have seen car enthusiasts connect lights or sound amplifiers directly to a battery with no fuse! I guess some will have found out the hard way with a car fire on the hard shoulder. If you use lithium batteries at home (especially LiFePo pouch type) you MUST have the appropriate fuse in circuit as once their maximum current has been exceeded, the cells become hot and get into a runaway condition. The chemistry of these cells provides all the oxygen needed to keep the cells burning at high temperature. They can also catch fire if you use the wrong type of charger even if the voltage rating is the same: this problem has been seen on electric scooters.

Many suppliers on line. Here is one: https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwtu9BhC8ARIsAI9JHanFCrmcswA5C0rpDYZZKvntQOYzCMBoyWnEGSypkZRtP1HKERiuWioaAslPEALw_wcB

I can confirm that the Bolera does not have bluetooth as standard. Retrofitting it can be expensive. The Aux socket is "in" only, and passes the in signals to the speakers when you select Aux on the Bolero. Putting a bluetooth adapter on the Aux input (available on the back of the Bolero if you don't have it on the central console) is only the same as adding a cable and will only pass audio to the speakers and not act as a remote microphone for your phone. Also check that Aux is on your Bolero menu.

Can you describe what this function does. Is front parking sensors? or self parking? or ??

I have the same engine and my VW group garage uses Quantum 5W-30 (VW 507).

Could be worn brushes in the starter motor? or the solenoid not moving far enough to engage the starter contacts? or worn contacts? Changing the starter motor and solenoid may be the quick solution.

If you suspect the switch on the drivers side door panel then you can use another way to tell the window to open or close. Press and hold the door lock switch on the centre console. Doors lock to raise all the windows and doors open to lower all the windows. You can also do the same using the key in the door handle - turn and hold the key. Your assumption of a trapped wire may be correct but before removing the door card to look, check for a broken wires in the rubber snake between the body and the door. There is no master switch or relay as the commands are electronic.

Coincidently, I was watching a car programme on TV today with exactly your problem - revs rising on idle etc. The cause was an air leak on the engine side of the MAF. Specifically, a worn/broken seal to the MAF. The extra air that bypassed the MAF was causing the ecu to try to correct the problem by adjusting the fuelling and this raised the revs. Worth checking.

If you don't have VCDS then you can use Carista. I used this to change mine from 3 blinks to 5.

I don't fully understand your question but I can tell you that when car is stationary and not in gear, the ecu will not allow you to overrev the engine. The rev limiter could be 2500 rpm on your engine.

Not yet as I am enjoying the new found power! I keep a log of fuel connsumption so I will check after a few more fill ups. I can't say about instantaneous as currently I am taking short trips, often not reaching full coolant temperature until near the end. I will report back soon.

Yes, that was the done. The new injectors are supplied with an individual code on the top. These codes were entered into the ECU.

Dont forget that the glow plug warning light is also used as a master indicator that there is a major fault code stored. So the glow plug light can come on when the glow plugs are OK. On earlier Mk 1 cars such as my son's Audi, the light came on for a failed breaklight bulb! The 1.6TDI 105 CR has a history. If one injector fails, the others fail soon after. I chose to change all mine after one failed and one had poor test readings. After changing all four the car seemed a little sluggish initially but now, 2000+ miles later, The performance is the best ever. Perhaps the ECU adapts to the new injectors?

Removing it may require you to drill out the fastening rivit. Just pull out the plug and tie the cable back in a safe position.

Skoda recommend changing the alarm every seven years. I suspect yours has a leak from the internal alkaine battery on the printed circuit board causing corrosion on the board. When you disconnected the main battery overnight, the damaged internal battery was not able to power the alarm but as soon as you reconnected the alarm unit, it would see a change and set off the alarm sounder. I think you hold the record for alarm life at 14 years. Take a look at the sticky post on alarms at the start of this forum.