pikpilot

Was yours one of those that were "improved" by a recall during the diesel gate problem? You can tell by a) an extra air straightener in the input air supply and b) a sticker in the spare wheel well. Engines also had new software which gives a gutless performance requiring higher revs. I fought VAG to not have the "fix" and won. My engine pulls well from 1200 revs in 2nd. Best acceleration is in 3rd from above 1500. Acceleration is more than adequate in 5th gear on motorways. Fuel around town is low 50s mpg and high 50s to low 60s on mixed roads.

Whine noise was due to a worn turbo bearing on my non-VAG engine. Examination showed that the turbo was also clogged with combustion products. Exchange turbo fixed it.

Check the wiring at the ground stud behind the trim on the left side of the boot. It is a common problem when water has flooded the area (which you also reported). In fact it is usually due not to rainwater but caused by having a washer solution that is too weak during the winter. On cold nights the water in the washer hose behind the trim freezes and the ice pushes off the coupler in the pipe. Next time you use the rear washer, the wash water is pumped into the boot. This then corrodes the connections at the earth stud and gives the result you found. Just clean up the connections with a fine emery cloth or similar and reconnect.

Mike, I thought that all Mk2 have electric power steering instead of a hydraulic system. From the way oil is spread over the rubber gaiter it would suggest to me that oil is being dripped down from above

Just noticed that this is a duplicate thread, two hours after you posted Airbag warning light and no sound of the horn- both lost simultaneously- what can be the problem ?

Yep, probably the clock spring assembly which keeps these functions connected when you turn the wheel. Search for post using clock spring.

Did you also do the hold reset at the fully open position? It needs doing at both limits. As Alasdair1 said, friction in the slides etc will cause cause the motor to reverse. You can over ride this by pressing the button for original direction of travel within 10 seconds. Here is what my handbook says: The electrically operated power windows are fitted with a force limiter. It reduces the risk of bruises or injuries when closing the windows. If there is an obstacle, the closing process is stopped and the window goes down by several centimetres. If the obstacle prevents the window from being closed during the next 10 seconds, the closing process is interrupted once again and the window goes down by several centimetres. You must try to close the window once again within 10 seconds after the window has gone down twice, even if the obstacle was not yet removed, the closing process is stopped. During this time it is not possible to automatically close the window. The force limiter is still switched on. The force limiter is only switched off, if you attempt to close the window within the next 10 seconds – the window closes now with full strength! If you wait longer than 10 seconds, the force limiter is switched on again.

Your problem, as you said, is that there is no supply to the fuse. Likely causes are: 1) the upstream fuse has also blown. Sometimes happens. Check to see what other things have no supply or look for a larger fuse that has blown. 2) a corroded connection or wire in the upstream supply.

This happened to me about 4 years ago after a Skoda garage changed the door controller. At the same time the door card puddle light failed to work. I took the car back to them within half an hour. They then spent about an hour setting up the correct features in software. No problem since.

My door open icon does not work when the door is in summer sun. Starts working again when the car is moving - door cools down. Lately has started to not work on very cold days. I have had it confirmed by a VAG garage and an auto electrician that the cause is the microswitch inside the door lock. Cost of new lock is ~£300 and similar cost for labour. The labour is high because the entire window system has to be removed (and later replaced) to gain access to the lock. The auto electrician says that he does this regularly, particularly on Audi variants.

Do the doors lock at the same time? Funny things happen if the door open/closed microswitch in the door lock has failed, or its cable in the trunk between body and door has broken. Next time you do this, look for the driver's door open icon on the dash. Additionally, report back if the door locks as soon as you turn off the ignition.

Late facelift models such as mine (2012), and probably yours, came with DRL lights fitted but not active. The handbook shows how to turn DRLs on and off by using the left hand stalk BUT you first have to activate the system using one of these: [unfortunately the handbook note also uses the word activate when they mean switch on] visit to dealer software such as VCDS other software I used Carister software as it also allows some useful extra facilities also found on the more advanced display/steering wheel system. By the same three routs you can change the country of use to set the kms/miles per hour etc.

A quick search on line brought up this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BL0tUX4c6hw Once you have the binnacle assembly out you can remove screws on the rear to give access the back of the part you need to clean.

Before you make a change look on line at the speed per 1000 revs in top gear. Some cars have same final speed per 1000 revs in the 5 speed and 6 speed variants. The extra gear is used to meet torque requirements lower down.

In case your keys have lost synchronisation, try this: To resynchronise the key to the immobiliser, 1) from outside the car, press ANY button on the remote 2) then, within one minute, unlock the door from the outside using the KEY BLADE

My experience is that the clicking noise is the worn teeth on the nylon gear are stripped or starting to strip. Even if a reset does get it working again for now, in the long term you will end up replacing the flap servo assembly.

To reset the immobiliser you must put the key in the ignition switch and turn it on. As you will have tried this then I suggest you try the second key. Failing that, you have blown a fuse as I think you may be suggesting. You don't need the pictograms as the handbook gives the function for each fuse. You can download the handbook for each each model year from the sticky threads area before the posts. Also you can download fuse functions and locations from sites such as this: 2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diag...2018 Skoda Octavia fuse box diagram - StartMyCar

I suspect it is a relay in the tray that is located under the dash to the right of the steering column. It drops down for access. Should be able to touch each relay in turn to discover if/which one is clicking. Can't help further at the moment as I have just come home from major surgery.

Have you read the stored diagnostic codes? I would not rule out a failing injector or an air leak in the pipe to the input side of the turbo.

This is the Skoda/Audi etc part number. It is used as an ECU relay and also another for the fuel pump and perhaps in other places too. Search this part number on-line and you will find it - and also many second-hand relays.

After my final two injectors were changed I had the pinking noise (diesel knock) under high torque acceleration. The specialist garage said that they had used the numbers with the injectors to code them to the ecu and not to worry. I was reluctant to accept there was no problem but in fact the pinking did not reoccur. The power also increased as time went on so I guess the ecu probably makes small adjustments. However, you may like to to look at this video which diagnoses and fixes a CAYC engine with poor idle and a ticking noise. One of the new injectors was not performing correctly and was replaced/repaired. This may be your problem.

Does the fast tapping sound a bit like you used to get on a petrol engine if it was pinking?

Don't forget to reset the one press window up/down feature after replacing the battery. See handbook.

In my experience it is likely to be a battery fault. When mine wouldn't start I called the AA and he restarted the engine using another battery connect in parallel with my battery. He left it running like that (to recharge my battery) for about 5-10 minutes. As soon he took off the first lead between his battery and mine, the engine stopped. My battery had developed an internal fault; high resistance, almost open circuit. The way the fuses are connected is that the first fuses are high current fuses that look like vertical strips of metal mounted near the battery and connect to it. Power from these then go to lower current fuses and relays which in turn feed the even smaller fuses such as those at the end of the dashboard. The fusing philosophy is standard whether it is a house, car or airplane. The fuse size is chosen to protect the cable connected to it in order to prevent fires from cable burn out. The cable is sized to carry the maximum current in that circuit. I have seen car enthusiasts connect lights or sound amplifiers directly to a battery with no fuse! I guess some will have found out the hard way with a car fire on the hard shoulder. If you use lithium batteries at home (especially LiFePo pouch type) you MUST have the appropriate fuse in circuit as once their maximum current has been exceeded, the cells become hot and get into a runaway condition. The chemistry of these cells provides all the oxygen needed to keep the cells burning at high temperature. They can also catch fire if you use the wrong type of charger even if the voltage rating is the same: this problem has been seen on electric scooters.

Many suppliers on line. Here is one: https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwtu9BhC8ARIsAI9JHanFCrmcswA5C0rpDYZZKvntQOYzCMBoyWnEGSypkZRtP1HKERiuWioaAslPEALw_wcB