pikpilot

Look in the fuse list for the fusebox at the end of the dash for a fuse that is in the ignition only group. Then take out the fuse for chosen point and replace it with a similar unit to this of the same current rating. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B0B51B2KB9/ref=asc_df_B0B51B2KB9?mcid=152e5a0715fd32df9de990308194da6a&hvocijid=11962717137635260052-B0B51B2KB9-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11962717137635260052&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045593&hvtargid=pla-2281435177178&psc=1&gad_source=1 Put the removed fuse in the correct side and another fuse along side it of the correct rating for your new circuit, which is then wired to the pigtail.

The last letters are the revision version. Later letters are usually backwards compatible.

Door power is on for about 10 minutes after you remove the key so you can operate the windows and some other things. Goes off when the door is locked.

Have you posted in the dedicated VCDS forum on Briskoda?

My initial thought was that of a tired battery that was reluctant to supply the high current needed for steering, But as you have replaced the battery then it is more likely to be something that is making a poor connection. Check all connections from the battery to the steering unit including fuses and earths (return paths). Look for signs of corrosion at joints and black conductors at the ends of the cables.

The cigarette lighter is fed from a 15 fuse (at least on the facelift estate - and same in the boot). The reason why the cigarette lighter is both high power and always on is that it is used for tyre inflators etc. So it is likely when choosing a switched fuse to tap that it will be smaller power source. Therefore I suggest your piggyback fuse is not the old one but a smaller current fuse to match your needs.

Funny things happen to the electronics in the door. As a first step, remove the battery connections for about 30 mins then reinstate. Do the missing functions start to work again? Note that the trip indicator will be reset.

If you mean the icon for driver's door open does not appear when the drivers door is open, then this is the first sign of the microswitch in the lock is failing. In my own case it only happens when the driver's door is facing the sun in hot weather and works again when you drive or it cools down An auto electrician confirmed the diagnostics and said he has changed the locks on many variants, especially Audi A3. It is expensive in labour to replace the lock as everything in the door must be taken out to gain access to remove the lock, and then put back again. About 4 hours or more - plus the cost of a new lock. A small warning. Because the door being opened is not recognised, the door will self lock again after a few minutes so always have the ignition key in your pocket. Leaving the key in the ignition without starting the car can lock your key in the car. However, there is another cause which you should investigate first. Check the wiring in the rubber tube between the body and the driver's door. Broken wires are common, including the wire from the door lock's microswitch. Also, remote control problems and those of locking/unlocking of other doors are often caused by broken wires in this elephant's trunk.

My similar engine idles at 1000 rpm if the engine has not been run for a few days or in cold weather. It does that if it sees the battery voltage indicates a recharge needed.

It should be zero. How did you measure it?

The PD engine has a different start procedure to most engines. When hot it requires a high spin speed. The cpu allows any spin speed when starting from cold. It is a well known problem from Mk1 Octavias with the PD engine. The cause is a tired battery. Replacing it will give higher spinning revs and a fast start.

Glad you were able to find the problem and fix it.

The facelift estate is different and does not look like your picture. Only uses single filament bulbs. Here is the comparison from a driver's manual. Light unit (Octavia) Bulb Reversing light P21W Turn signals PY21W Twin filament light bulb for the brake lights and tail lights P21/4W Twin filament bulbs for the rear fog light and rear parking light P21/4W Parking lights W3W Rear light unit (Estate car) Bulb Reversing lights, brake lights, parking light and rear fog light P21W Turn signals PY21W Parking lights W3W You probably know this, you cannot connect your trailer wiring directly to the car wiring because you must have an interface unit to separate out the sidelight and brake light functions.

In the 1z5 version (estate / wagon) the rear lights are electronically driven without fuses. Lights which only just about shine indicate a poor earth connection (if whole cluster is affected) or poor bulb contact or corrosion if just one bulb affected. There are no twin filament bulbs in the rear cluster of the estate as they are single filament bulbs electronically controlled. For example the rear light/brake light position has its brightness changed using pulse width modulation to change the brightness. [only the saloon/hatch retains the traditional arrangement]. As said above, in Europe there is only one rear fog light - on the driver's side of the car. It sounds like your weak brightness is the fog light bulb. This can happen if there is poor connection/corrosion in the cluster so another active bulb is supplying power through a high resistance leakage path. Look for water damage.

What you are seeing is normal when the battery is not holding its charge. The revs rise to 1000 at idle to put back some of the energy lost in starting because the battery voltage has dropped. The fact that your battery reaches normal voltage in less than a minute indicates the battery characteristics are moving to that of a failed battery. My guess is that only one cell in the battery has failed. On the question of leakage current, there are some parts that are actively listening for about 10 minutes unless the doors have been locked. For example, you can still operate the windows even if you have turned off the ignition.

This is a good page to decode fault codes: https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes It might help some members on here if you post the engine code. You can find it on a sticker around the spare wheel area

As far as I can tell, there is no brake light fuse on your model, suggesting the lights are electronically controlled too on the hatch. When you have tried everything else and not found anything, I would do the car version of Ctrl+Alt+Delete which is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes as a reset. You will loose your trip data and have to reset the one-press open and closure of the windows as shown in the handbook.

Since posting I checked again. Only the estate is as described. The hatch back/saloon still has a two filament bulb with separate feeds for side and brake lights. Check your handbook for fuse function. Mine says fuse 13 is the diagnostic socket.

The brake lights and the side lights are the same bulb on later models. The intensity is changed electronically using pulse width modulation. I suggest you check for fault codes. It may also be that the car has shut off the car brake lights for protection against a fault in the unit that creates the brake light supply to your trailer brake lights. Take look in the boot on the left-hand side for water ingress and corrosion of the connections made to the earth stud. Also look at the wiring to the trailer socket for shorts.

I would be looking at engine and gearbox mounts.

In about 2015 there were several threads about putting a net behind the grill to catch stones after several members had your problem. Try a search on here if still available. This was the first thing I did when I got my car in 2015. When fitting the net I also removed many small concrete lumps from the top of the bumper onto which they had fallen after hitting the core.

More likely to be a sticky vanes in the turbo. Your whistling may be collateral damage of the turbo bearings if the frequency of the whistle follows the revs. If you were originally happy with the standard turbo you could simply replace it as it avoids getting into other issues consequent of a larger turbo.

The likely cause of the alarm going off is the internal alarm battery is nearly dead and is not holding the charge from the main battery. Pulling the fuse should work after a few days when the alarm battery goes flat.