pikpilot

When you replace the alarm, spend the money and buy a genuine new unit. if you look on auction sites etc you can see used alarms at good prices - it is said that these are often from scrapped cars and may have failed or will fail soon.

I see you have a late Stream model. Go to the pinned handbook posts above and look for your year and model. You should see a link to the handbook for your radio.

The Perspex is clipped to the covering trim. Easiest way is get a new cover with Perspex from a scrappy. Look on here for other posts that include access to the display panel as they also describe how to remove the cover. You cannot remove the Perspex from the trim cover with the trim cover in place as the fixing clips are inside.

What radio model is installed? I don't recall any model with three type A usb ports. In my car with a Bolero radio I can plug a Bluetooth receiver into the AUX socket in the central armrest/cubby hole, then set the radio to AUX. No good for phone conversations but can play anything stored on your phone. Music sounds no different to same tune played on the SD card on the front of the radio.

The alarm (siren) is mounted behind the offside wheel arch cover on right hand drive cars. It is held in place with one bolt and one rivet. Take a look at the pinned thread above concerning alarm replacement:- Once the alarm appears to misbehave after 6 or more years in use, it is best to replace it in my experience. It may be on the other side on your LHD drive car. Remove the wheel and wheel arch cover to gain access. There are photos in some other alarm threads.

It is one of those switches that relies on a coating on the plastic or rubber. Once they start being intermittent they fail soon after. Replace.

Adaption does not not do anything physical to the DPF. A high ash load unit will always be near end of life. Perhaps more frequent regenerations needed if the active part of the DPF is too small?

Try these: Look at this and This Both on ebay, Right click on the underlined words and then click on "open link in new tab"

This code suggests a fuel pump or relay problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.php?q=P0091

With the battery light on it indicates no charging taking place. Check the alternator connection and particularly where the alternator cable is connected to its vertical fuse in the engine bay below the battery. Sometimes the end of the cable (in the crimp) has white deposits from corrosion. Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing ANYTHING to this cable. It could also be a failing alternator if the car is high mileage. The TCS light can come on if the battery voltage is too low due to lack of charging. Reinforced by the fact the car wont start either. I would forget about an ECU fault until you have fixed the charging problem.

I have the same model and the handbook says fuse 12 is the "Control unit for CAN databus" With this fuse removed it probably explains the loss of locking as this uses the databus. There are a number of items (like the window controls) which are kept active for ~10 minutes after turning the ignition key to off, and still drawing current. Doesn't help with finding your fault but Fuse 12 may be a red herring unless you can show that appreciable flows through it with the car locked.

Check the dash display for a door open icon every time you open the driver's door. If it doesn't display then check for a broken wire(s) in the cable trunk from the door frame to the driver's door. A broken wire (intermittent) here doesn't answer all your points but does answer the beeps and alarm issues.

Easy to repair in situ. If you are not happy to do it yourself or don't have a friend who can do it, then about half an hours work at an auto electricians. Probably less time than changing the loom.

Look in the fuse list for the fusebox at the end of the dash for a fuse that is in the ignition only group. Then take out the fuse for chosen point and replace it with a similar unit to this of the same current rating. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B0B51B2KB9/ref=asc_df_B0B51B2KB9?mcid=152e5a0715fd32df9de990308194da6a&hvocijid=11962717137635260052-B0B51B2KB9-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11962717137635260052&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045593&hvtargid=pla-2281435177178&psc=1&gad_source=1 Put the removed fuse in the correct side and another fuse along side it of the correct rating for your new circuit, which is then wired to the pigtail.

The last letters are the revision version. Later letters are usually backwards compatible.

Door power is on for about 10 minutes after you remove the key so you can operate the windows and some other things. Goes off when the door is locked.

Have you posted in the dedicated VCDS forum on Briskoda?

My initial thought was that of a tired battery that was reluctant to supply the high current needed for steering, But as you have replaced the battery then it is more likely to be something that is making a poor connection. Check all connections from the battery to the steering unit including fuses and earths (return paths). Look for signs of corrosion at joints and black conductors at the ends of the cables.

The cigarette lighter is fed from a 15 fuse (at least on the facelift estate - and same in the boot). The reason why the cigarette lighter is both high power and always on is that it is used for tyre inflators etc. So it is likely when choosing a switched fuse to tap that it will be smaller power source. Therefore I suggest your piggyback fuse is not the old one but a smaller current fuse to match your needs.

Funny things happen to the electronics in the door. As a first step, remove the battery connections for about 30 mins then reinstate. Do the missing functions start to work again? Note that the trip indicator will be reset.

If you mean the icon for driver's door open does not appear when the drivers door is open, then this is the first sign of the microswitch in the lock is failing. In my own case it only happens when the driver's door is facing the sun in hot weather and works again when you drive or it cools down An auto electrician confirmed the diagnostics and said he has changed the locks on many variants, especially Audi A3. It is expensive in labour to replace the lock as everything in the door must be taken out to gain access to remove the lock, and then put back again. About 4 hours or more - plus the cost of a new lock. A small warning. Because the door being opened is not recognised, the door will self lock again after a few minutes so always have the ignition key in your pocket. Leaving the key in the ignition without starting the car can lock your key in the car. However, there is another cause which you should investigate first. Check the wiring in the rubber tube between the body and the driver's door. Broken wires are common, including the wire from the door lock's microswitch. Also, remote control problems and those of locking/unlocking of other doors are often caused by broken wires in this elephant's trunk.

My similar engine idles at 1000 rpm if the engine has not been run for a few days or in cold weather. It does that if it sees the battery voltage indicates a recharge needed.

It should be zero. How did you measure it?

The PD engine has a different start procedure to most engines. When hot it requires a high spin speed. The cpu allows any spin speed when starting from cold. It is a well known problem from Mk1 Octavias with the PD engine. The cause is a tired battery. Replacing it will give higher spinning revs and a fast start.

Glad you were able to find the problem and fix it.