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Whats a WALK ? D

Where does the 80,000 come from ? It seems very low. D

I had a similar problem - a stone had been thrown up from the road surface and lodged between the front disk and its backing plate. I just flexed the backing plate and the stone fell out. Had to jack the car up and take the wheel off :( D

Agree with cheezmonkhai - if the leak is slow, you probably wouldn't see anything under the car. It gets hot under the bonnet and a slow drip would tend to evaporate as soon as it contacted with hot metal. How long between topups ? D

I read Random/Multiple as Random OR Multiple so it could be 1 cylinder with an intermittent fault. Don't know what the answer is though :confused: If you suspect a coil pack, can you clear the odes, swap coil packs between a couple of cylinders and see if the fault moves with the coil pack ? If it stays the same, it could be the sparking plug. D

It's a bad time of year not to have front wipers :( If all the fuses are intact, there could be a common earth bond in the harness that has failed. I'd double check the fuses, get an accurate wiring diagram and see if there was a common earth then see if there was power available to one or all of the devices that weren't working. If there is power, measure the voltage on the earth return if there is one - it should be 0V. If it's 12V, the earth is floating. The original fuse could have burnt something else out that controls power. Took me months to find a burnt out fuse on a Citroen C2. I had a faulty diesel pump and the car stopped so I stripped it down and replaced the pump but the car still wouldn't start. After a lot more work, I found a circuit diagram and discovered a burnt out fuse. The pump needed replacing anyway but if it hadn't been for the fuse, the car would probably have gone on running for quite a while before the pump finally called it a day. The moral of the tale - the blown fuse could be masking something else :thumbdwn: D

Have you any ideas where the missing coolant is going ? I wrote a javascript utility that calculates how much coolant and water you need to maintain the correct strength solution at the correct level. All you need to know is how far the level is from the top of the tank which you can measure with a ruler. The page is at :- How Much Antifreeze In My Skoda © Dave Restall Regards, D

It's normally only shown on mine when stationary or if you lift the throttle off when going downhill. When driving mine shows me the MPG. With cruise on on a flat surface, the numbers will become stable and you can see what affect on MPG turning the air con on has for example D

I've been with the RAC for a few years. They give you a no callout discount. This year's premium (just got the reminder) is 118.60 for me, my wife and son in any vehicle even as a passenger. D

E.

Air Scoop

Furry Dice ?

I can make it happen at will on my car. Just hold the radio's on/off button down for about 10 seconds. D

It's more frustrating when the temperature varies and you get it going off several times on a journey. I still find it a useful reminder though. D

Take it back to the remappers - it sounds as if something has gone wrong and if it was OK before the remap but not after then the remap is a strong candidate for the problems. Everybody makes mistakes sometimes - they could have loaded an incorrect map. Get it back to standard, check it's all OK and then get it re-mapped. It may need a couple of days back & forth to check with a cold engine etc. but soldiering on with it in its current state isn't going to be good in the long run - I'm sure you know this already :confused: D

Let's hope the engine stopping 'dead as if the engine has hit something' isn't hitting the 500ml of water in one of the bores. Get it to dealer that will look at is ASAP. If you have a hydraulic lock you could do serious damage to the engine and it will cost A LOT MORE than a gasket replacement. D

Bloody Hell - the German was easier to understand D

Mine had the change of ownership card and I just posted that back. There was no charge and few weeks later, I got a letter from them acknowledging receipt. D

Best thing to do is to work out how you can make the rattle appear on demand then take it to the dealer, let them hear it and tell them to sort it. If it's only 18 months old, it's still under warranty so shouldn't cost anything unless you've done 50 billion miles and it's a fair wear and tear item of course D

Get them to sort it - threaten with a letter to Skoda UK. They're probably hoping to fob you off long enough so you give up. Lights don't come on for no reason. It's still under warranty therefore it should be fixed end of story. You're luckier than some on the forum - they have problems but no errors logged or lights D

If there's a transistor in it, the transistor normally burns out to protect the fuse 40A is excessive - that's 480W (or 0.7BHP in real money). If you're blowing 40A fuses, then most test meters will struggle to measure that sort of current. You'll need to measure the current flow indirectly, possibly by fitting a known low value high power resistor in series with the motor (0.1Ohm, 200W) should give a drop of 1V per 10 AMPS (or 0.01 Ohm at 25W for 0.1V/10 Amps). TBH it sounds as if the motor is really knackered. It's probably overheated due to the bearings drying out and the coil insulation has melted shorting some of the windings either to earth or to each other. Regards, D

On the rare occasions I have had binding brakes, it's only ever been on one wheel and after a drive, it's quite obvious which one is binding because of the heat given off. In general, you probably wouldn't notice a binding brake while driving, it's when you slow to a stop at a junction etc. and you will feel the car stop more suddenly than normal, if you de-clutch and coast for the last few yards it's really noticeable. Start stop traffic is also where it's really noticeable. D

Have you access to a test meter so that you can check voltages and currents ? If the resistor pack overheated, it could have melted some wires somewhere and this will be causing a short. For it to burn out a second time suggests that there's too much current going through it, again indicative of a short. Without a test meter and some readings, we'd just be guessing where the problem lies. D

Rear wheel or front wheel ? The front's always have more drag due to it being a front wheel drive car. D

Maybe we should have a serendipity moment and turn this to our advantage. If it's done this sort of damage then it may actually be good in an emergency for something. It might work quite well as a tar or oil remover or bulb glass cleaner. D