PetrolDave

Be helpful to have more details of your car - model, year, engine size, gearbox (manual or DSG). Maybe the three letter code you have quoted is incomplete?

See here and here

Run flats have much stiffer sidewalls (to give them the run flat ability) so the ride will be much harsher.

You need to read the Mk4 section of this forum, many of the software glitches are still present and at least one doesn't have a date to be fixed. The glitch that seems to be most cause for concern is sudden and unexpected emergency braking, closely followed by the ACC randomly deciding that it cannot overtake a car (which seems to be related to the car suddenly believing it is in a LHD country). As well as these obviously safety related glitches there are several members commenting on the, in their opinion, difficulty achieving some functions using the infotainment system as they are 'buried' some layers deep in a menu system rather than having dedicated buttons or soft keys. They all say that the car is nice to drive, but have varying levels of concern over the software problems and for some they have been so unacceptable that they have rejected their cars for a refund. Worth reading the Mk4 forum fully especially this post and carefully and making your own mind - caveat emptor.

Hmmm.... The message in the scan says that you have an earlier interface cable such as a HEX-CAN but the picture shows a HEX-V2? Sounds very much to me like what you have is a clone cable pretending to be a HEX-V2. My best advice is that you contact Ross-Tech [email protected] including that photo of your cable and ask them for assistance.

On all my iPhones from 7 to 12 Pro I've always used a clear silicone case plus a Gorilla glass screen protector - dropped them several times over the years and never had any screen damage.

So charge the battery yourself (make sure you use a charger that is EFB/AGM compatible and use the earth tag on the bodywork not the negative terminal of the battery or you will confuse the battery management system) and if the problems still exist after that go straight back to the dealer.

Make sure they are either FULLY open or FULLY closed, if one is ever so slightly open then that will cause a whistle.

If it's a MIB3 sat nav updates are OTA (Over The Air) but earlier MIB units have to be updated by downloading maps from either the Skoda portal or (better) using the links posted on here by @MartiniB and installing them via USB or SD card (if an Amundsen they must be installed onto a genuine Skoda SD card). Note that map updates for MIB1 units stopped at 2020/2021 maps because Skoda do not support them for more than 5 years.

The software change to revert back to normal came in later than 2016, IIRC it was around the time the facelift Mk3 came out?

Get a fault scan done with e.g. VCDS or OBD11, that will show if there is a problem with a heater flap and if so which one.

My prediction? "They all do that sir" - that's what the majority of dealers say...

In 48 years of car ownership I don't recall ever owning a car with an illuminated ignition lock?

I always use the Holts concentrate screenwash but a few years ago an Audi dealer topped up with the VW screenwash at a service and when I checked under the bonnet the next weekend there were visible lumps floating around in the screenwash reservoir. Fortunately I hadn't had to use the washers that week so the lumps stayed in the reservoir, I drained the reservoir and refilled with my Holts plus water and threw the VW screenwash away.

Please can I ask that you use a more normal size font? That huge font scrolls way off the edge of the screen making it much harder to read.

Before you erase it copy the data onto your PC as a backup

To know for sure if it's a flap motor you need to do a diagnostic scan with e.g. VCDS or OBD11.

Component Protection only happens when certain modules, those that VAG think are most likely to be stolen, are replaced. If you don't replace a module then component protection is irrelevant. When changing the battery if the battery type and capacity are the same as the old battery then all that's needed is to change the serial number by one digit - that's enough to tell the BMS that a new battery has been fitted. For many years the radio had stored the VIN of the car it is first installed into, now the radio is included in the component protection items so if it's the same radio in the same car there's nothing to do.

That Highway Code update is aimed at hypermilers driving cars with manual gearboxes who quite proudly state that they coast many miles in neutral and become quite irate when asked online "how long would it take you to get into gear in an emergency?".

It's not an old version of the VCDS software, it's an older VCDS cable that cannot support the longer CAN bus messages on newer cars - hence the [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] message. What @zahabyneeds is either a HEX-V2 or HEX-NET cable.

MIB1 Amundsen

+1 There have been multiple posts on here about the OBD11 apps making changes that cause unwanted consequences and not achieving the desired change. IMHO the apps are to be avoided and changes made manually step by step following the informations posted on briskoda.

Since you have a Mk3 posting in this Mk4 forum is not the best place...

Given the number of owners that have posted on here about fitting a CR2032 instead of a CR2025 (same 20mm diameter but 0.7mm thicker) without any problems I think there's a degree of over exaggeration of the possible problems/consequences in some recent posts.