PetrolDave

Shame they won't offer the 200kW iV in the Combi, seems a mistake to me - the 200kW iV Combi is what I would buy as my new tow car.

Have you actually checked visually whether the left front fog is working? I ask because on a previous VAG vehicle every 6 months or so I would get a spurious warning about the left front fog not working when it was actually fine.

I'm retired so workplace charging isn't an option. Until we have the house and garage fully rewired we have been advised by more than one electrician that home charging is not viable due to the out-of-date switchgear and poor quality of electrical feed to the garage - so we've decided that our replacement vehicle cannot be an EV on running cost grounds, so we will be having either another ICE or even a HEV.

The MIL being lit is the important part, many misfires are not consistent enough and frequent enough to set the MIL (the ECU software allows a few misfires happening infrequently) - as @Evolution13 points out provided emissions are with limits then the MOT will pass.

That suggests that the accessory towbar is not suitable for PHEV, but can the PHEV be ordered with the factory fitted towbar? Interested because we're planning on buying/leasing a Superb PHEV to tow a 1600kg caravan.

Is that Yaris Hybrid a PHEV or just an HEV? If a PHEV was it being plugged in? And when a PHEV is plugged in, will that also charge the 12V battery (generic question I now, but is there a generic answer?)? My soon-to-be brother-in-law has a Yaris Cross hybrid (not a PHEV) which needs to have the 12V battery charged regularly as the 12V is only charged when the petrol engine runs, and ontheir mostly short urban drives around Plymouth the engine doesn't run much. In their usage pattern it seems to me that a PHEV would be preferable to an HEV?

The first car to set a Land Speed Record of over 60mph was also electric La Jamais Contente

This is another reason the cooling package needs uprating: Octavia 2.0 tdi (remap to 190) So you're towing with what is effectively a 190TDI with the basic 150TDI cooling package.

Previously it's always been said that a MIB1 Canton amplifier cannot be used with MIB2, so it's good to know there is a way round - provided you have the tools to install the MIB1 Canton dataset.

You have Canton? Then it cannot be plug and play as you also need to change the Canton amplifier when you switch from MIB1 to MIB2. Oh and the coding needs to be corrected to match your vehicle, and the USB socket needs to be changed also.

The language here is English, please always post in English. Google translate says: Is it possible to update my Columbus navigation 2026? What version Columbus do you have? If it's a MIB1 then no, but if it's a MIB2 then yes - there is a thread on this site with links to the updates.

Clearing component protection needs a garage with an online connection to the Skoda servers.

Strange - I used the same Thule bars (with different bases) on my B7 RS4 Avant, my Octavia 3 Combi and now my Octavia 3 saloon?

Not the same as you were talking about when running the whole house and/or charging an EV - so not relevant.

IF they can afford the cost of home batteries, remember many people are NOT eligible for the available grants - and amongst them are those most in need of lower energy costs!

Yes, with patience.

Totally agree, the limitations and needs of 100% of the population need to be taken into account not just those of 0.0000001% (excuse the rounding error!).

Yes, never needed to use anything else.

Interesting on a global scale but of very little relevance to the UK, where the harsh reality is that generation and distribution of electricity simply will not be able to keep up with the demand IF the targets for switchover from ICE to EV are even close to being met.

I beg to differ, having worked on VAG vehicles for 25+ years and many other makes for 50+ years.

I use a set of small jewellers screwdrivers to unlock the latches on each pin.

If you have already posted about changing your radio it would have been better to post in the same thread rather than starting a new thread without context!

Interesting but meaningless post as there's no context. Why will you buy this part (whatever it is)? What vehicle do you have, etc.?

I spent several years working for a well known sports car manufacturer who used to hold customer and press days on their private test track. It was very revealing watching how "Joe & Joanne Public" coped with both oversteer and understeer - in most cases oversteer led to a spin (in a few extreme cases a visit to the greenery), but understeer was in the vast majority of cases dealt without any drama after a lift of the throttle and staying on track. This, I believe, clearly shows once again that for a road car driven by a "normal" driver understeer is far safer than oversteer as "normal" drivers can deal with it far more easily and intuitively - hence the normal advice when having 2 new tyres is to fit them on the rear.

As you can see it's a sharp crease which probably won't push out (plus an earlier shopping trolley scrape!).