PetrolDave

I guess it depends on the construction of the 48V battery, if it's a sealed assembly (most likely) then it has to be replaced as a whole. Way back in 1988 the phone batteries I was designing in had modules, but they were not individually replaceable and AFAIK that's still true for a 2025 iPhone?

I thought about posting that but OP says he has manual AC - does manual AC have HVAC flaps that can be reset?

Was the BMS coding changed when the new battery was installed?

Probably a good idea to post/move to the Octavia 3 forum where fellow owners can offer advice.

Welcome, the language of this forum is English - please post only in English. Google Translate says.... I have a 2023 Octavia 4, petrol, 1.5L 150 hp, Business trim. During an update in early November, the central screen went off, the radio stopped working, the warning lights stayed on, and the reversing sensors stopped working... Even disconnecting and reconnecting the battery makes the screen come back on for a few minutes but then go off again...

I use CarPlay but have Siri disabled on all my Apple devices?

Or ask our in-house expert @pab567

I turn start/stop off when at a side junction turning onto a fast road, this eliminates the engine start time and makes for a safer quick entry onto the main road.

Provided your current battery is an AGM, and the Ah capacity of both batteries is the same (or very similar) then you will not have any issues if you don't recode. The BMS will learn the new battery characteristics more slowly than if recoded but that's all.

When running the battery voltage can be as low as 12.5V - if the BMS determines that the battery has reached 80% SOC. It's usually only over 14V for a short period after starting the engine, or when on trailing throttle (as a form of micro hybrid).

Changing the coding and uploading a new dataset are quite different. If the camera will only accept Audi coding then I strongly suspect you need a new Skoda dataset.

Pulling to the right suggests a right side wheel is being braked - either because a right side sensor is reporting too fast OR because a left side sensor is reporting too slow.

That rain sensor on the windscreen is only for the auto wipers, so that will have no effect on the brakes. I suspect that one or more of the wheel speed sensors is being affected by the rain.

The key point is that Skoda have always had the heated mirrors controlled by the mirror switch not the heated rear window switch.

bougies???

Never found any way to change it, before I had Skodas I had Audis so I too was puzzled at first when the mirrors didn't heat with the rear window. I find I often leave the mirror switch in the heat position, which also means the dip on reverse doesn't work (as the mirror switch has to be in the nearside position for that to work).

No, Skoda have always done it this way - different to the rest of the VAG group!

120 degrees in the UK/EU 3 phase system, but 180 degrees in the US 2 phase system.

Many US houses have 2 phases - 120V at 180 degrees phase difference to give 240V between phases for e.g. tumble dryers.

Heat pumps are 300-400% efficient compared to a combi boiler 90-95%, so between 315% and 444% efficiency gain. Currently on Octopus 16M Fixed my gas costs 6.42p/kWh and my electricity costs 24.98p/kWh, so electricity is 389% the cost of gas. This means the running cost benefit of heat pump vs combi boiler is open to question depending on individual appliances. If you take into account paying back the purchase & installation cost of the heat pump even with the substantial grants available (and making good the plumbing to the boiler), the probable additional cost of upgraded radiators (because of the lower water temperature), and the possible cost of adding hot water storage, then it appears to be doubtful whether changing from combi boiler to heat pump is financially viable on an individual basis?

...including any radiator upgrades and, if you had a combi boiler with no hot water tank, any upgrades to the hot water system? Oh any how much, if any, making good of decorations (painting, plastering, etc.)?

Reading many posts on here over the last couple of years about these updates it appears to me that after a major update it's advisable to do a reset to factory settings and go through the pain of restoring your preferences etc. I have a theory that the updates that cause this sort of problem use a different format of the internal database used to save settings etc. - this is something I saw often when I was still working as a firmware designer. I could be wrong, just sharing my thoughts and observations...

I had a similar problem a few years ago which I traced to moulding flashes on the gears connecting the motor to the flap. Some careful filing to remove them solved the sticking/jamming problem.

The language of this forum is English, so you need to post in English. Here's what Google Translate makes of your post: Hi everyone, I'd like some advice if possible, even though I have a VW and not a Skoda. However, I've read that many of you know a lot about how software works. I'd like to install this version of the software, mst2_eu_vw_zr_p0480t, on my 2017 Golf 7.5 with MIB2. I now have the mst2_eu_vw_zr_p0363t version installed. I've already installed the toolbox on the car and I also have the 480t software ready to be installed. My infotainment is: MIB2 3Q0035864B (with 2 SD cards). Can I do this update? If so, how should I proceed? Thank you all for what you do, and I hope you can help me too. Best regards, everyone.

So that's an Amundsen system, but could be a MIB1 or a MIB2 - I'm not sure how to tell which but I know a man who does @pab567