xman

You are probably right. That would explain the extremely long list of brand new cars that our stealer claims they have, on offer in "Special Event no.2" this year. They normally have very few. I guess lots of dealers may have pre-reg'd a ton of ICE cars in anticipation of poor EV sales this amd future years https://www.whatcar.com/advice/buying/what-is-the-zev-mandate/n26196

Twas ever thus. People leasing or buying on PCP in general always get ripped off. Most never think beyond the monthly payment. Most never consider the annual mileage trap. We bought our factory order Superb mk3 SEL executive with £2000 of options in March 2018 for £22,000 that was £8000 off list. Local dealer now has a rather arrogant sales guy, not willing to talk any discounts, just rattles on about finance on PCP. Well, I'll wait until the recession gets really bad later this year and no one is buying .. 2 "special events" in 2 months show things aren't going too well in Skoda sales. Our dealer has a dozen or more unsold new Kodiaqs, not surprised.

Sure did well to get those out. (Removed rest of post as not relevant for FSII caliper being discussed here)

Push firmly, but never with both feet, you may blow the seals in the master/slave cylinders.

The auto adjustment wedge on the rear drums often seize with age and trying to persuade them as previous poster describes often doesn't work. It's possible to adjust the handbrake by removing the tray behind the handbrake lever, it just pulls out and you'll see the adjuster on the T bar with the 2 cables attached. Small open ended 10mm spanner is required. Pull item 15 up to gain access. More satisfactory solution is to remove the drums and clean out thoroughly. Details and pics here (Fabia/Roomster the same...) You'll be able to see how worn the linings are and check the slave cylinders for leaks. As the rear drums are never touched by most garages, they are probably knackered by now, you may find that leaking brake fluid from the slave cylinders has contaminated the linings so making them ineffective even when the handbrake is pulled hard on.

Maybe these? https://performancem.co.uk/choose-your-car/mini/generation-1-r50-r52-r53-2000-to-2006/koni-special-active-kit-new-mini-one-cooper-s-incl-cabrio-r50-r52-r53-front-with-arb-attached-to-damper/ Might be difficult to fit .... 🤪

Is it really that difficult to push the button behind the gear lever marked (P)? 😜

I only wanted 2 tyres, the Michelin offer is £24 for 2x 18 inch tyres. Camskill plus delivery £303.40 less £24 Michelin promo plus say £20 per tyre fitting if I shop around plus a minimum of 2 hours of driving and waiting in a cold dirty workshop waiting room. £320 total plus petrol and my time. I paid £272 for the Goodyears and didn't have to leave home! I've used Crossclimates before on one of our Fabias (16 inch). They went oval/ non circular and became very noisy as I explained earlier. So wary about using them again even if they were cheaper. Michelin are usually the most expensive by far.

They can be repaired but costs depends on the damage and how far it's progressed. If the box has been running for a while with little or no oil then case hardening may have been damaged on other gears due to excessive heat. Our Octavia was rebuilt by a really knowledgeable and talented one man gearbox specialist local to us. One or both of the bearings at the drive shaft flanges had disintegrated allowing the diff to move side to side. Loud clunk when applying or lifting throttle. Fortunately caught in time and only minor blueing of the pinion gear and slight shaving of the inside of the housing where the diff had made contact. Cost (2 yr ago) was £650. Otherwise I'd have been looking at £1350 for a complete rebuild. Our skoda dealer initially highlighted the gearbox oil leak at the flanges, during a timing chain change, but incorrectly said it only needed new seals, they hadn't checked the driveshafts for the inch or so of end play. Probably had been leaking oil for some time as it only had about ⅓ litre left when opened up by the gearbox specialist. A trusted independent correctly diagnosed it and recommended I try their go to gearbox specialist when it proved impossible to source a replacement box.

Front caliper slide bolts rarely need replacing unless they are somehow severely corroded pitted, or damaged. In which case you should check the guide bushes aren't worn or damaged as well. They just need a quick clean and very light coating of brake grease applied (but not on the threads). Tighten 30Nm They don't need loctite either.

I have used Camskill a few times in the past but nowadays I find they are rarely competitive for the tyres I want. Another problem is many tyre places like kwikfit refuse to fit tyres not supplied by them and those that do quote silly prices e.g. £27 per tyre to fit them. I used to used a back street outfit at £10 per tyre but the last time they made a complete mess of the alloy. Having it done on my drive is just so much less hassle than sitting in a grubby tyre centre not knowing whether they jacked up the car properly without damage or used a torque wrench. The past 3 experiences with tyresonthedrive have been excellent, and cheaper than anywhere else to boot. Whats not to like?

The 235 45 18 Goodyear 4season Gen 3 just fitted I've measured at 8mm near the centre of the tread. IIRC Michelin answered my query on tread depths a few years ago and said new crossclimates (the original one) could be as little as 6.9 mm in the centre and less toward the edge, depending on size of tyre.

At a guess, it could be simply misfiring (plugs or coilpacks) - check for pending error codes or in the early stages of DMF (dual mass flywheel) failure.

I think this discussion has gone on enough. I don't think a bit of sleet once or twice a year is going to warrant a set of winter tyres and the hassle/expense of swapping/storing/extra rims. As I pointed out my initial plan was to put all seasons on the back but the fitter couldn't oblige. So it is what it is. I know oversteer can be difficult to for novices who panic, don't have clue what to do or over compensate. I am not a novice, having driven across Europe a number of times on packed snow/ice in minus 21C temps on standard summer tyres over a few decades. I'm simply not going to bin 2 perfectly good tyres which have been no problem over 5 years driven in much worse winter episodes than we are likely to see this year. In time the car will have all seasons all round, but thats going to take some time given the exceptional longevity of the OE P7 tyres.

Indeed it has gone up a lot. I renewed 2nd time around in Nov while on Black Friday special at £26.25 per month (when it was £30 less 20% more or less) .

2012 1.2Tsi will be Ea111 cbzb/cbza engine. In this case: The problem is one or more plug leads have failed open circuit. Usually no.3 lead, but could be others as well. This leads to excessive voltage at the coilpack which flashes over internally or externally and eventually fails as well. The leads are suppressor type 9kohm iirc with carbon coated threads as the conductor material. No.3 leads sits directly over the exhaust/turbo heat shield and fails due to excessive temperatures. The ignition system is a wasted spark design which means that plugs fire in pairs every rotation of the crank plug pairs. Twice as frequent as conventional ignitions and with consequences of uneven plug wear.

Get yourself this plan and save a small fortune https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan 2 x services (fixed or variable your choice) 2 x MOT 2 year Skoda warranty 2 year breakdown cover £37.50 per month (£900 over 24 months) You can take the first service straight away after signing up. Includes spark plugs etc if scheduled. Bargain even though you missed the 20% off offer in November.

🤨 Yes I know and never said otherwise but the operation of the parking brake, specifically disabling it, is controlled by the autohold setting in MY CAR. But then my car is Superb 😜 What no one has addressed is that the OP said his car (Karoq?) previously never applied his parking brake automatically. So people saying its always automatic isn't being very helpful.

The tyre fitter did say the majority of customers fitting all seasons like me, fit them on the front, for the grip. Presumably fwd.

The tyre fitter did say the majority of customers fitting all seasons like me, fit them on the front, for the grip. Presumably fwd.

This may be the case with the Karoq, but on my Superb it is how I described. I looked up Autohold on the 2022 Karoq manual and found this, which suggests that parking brake can be disabled

The guy from tyresonthedrive (halfords) came this morning and fitted 2 new Goodyear 4seasons in around 20 mins. Very efficient and courteous service, only gripes are he wouldn't do a tyre rotation so I have the new all seasons on the front and 50% worn P7's on the back. Job time doesn't allow him to do it even if I paid him. The other is he set the tyres to 38psi, my car requires 32psi, I think he looked at the wrong variant - maybe the diesel. But easily corrected and I also reset the tyre monitoring myself

Regarding DCC, VW USA recommends using Comfort setting as this make throttle response less sharp. Think I'll leave it in Normal as comfort tends to wallow and handle like a barge. Sport is a lot firmer, too firm at times.

Well in the end I didn't have a choice. Pleasant and efficient guy from tyresonthedrive (Halfords) wouldn't do the tyre rotation even if I paid as they don't have the time allocated for the job. Didn't see but maybe there was an option somewhere but only at time of booking. So all seasons on the front and 50% worn P7 on the back for now. I may change them over sometime in the spring or summer so I can get the P7's finally worn out and changed for all seasons. By my calculations that would be in about 25,000 miles time. Thursday, son is driving to Man airport over the M62, forecast sleet/snow.